[Leoshashi]

Thank you gentlemen for the valuable inputs.

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

1. Check for looseness, and if required change, steering ball joints & tie-rod ends
2. Check for free movement of steering with front end jacked up/on ramp
3. Tighten steering rack bolts
4. Change strut rubber kit both sides

Checked all these points, everything is in order.

Originally Posted by paragsachania

For once do these to rule out few components as it is to with steering vibration:

• Rotate tires or try tires from a different M800
• Check if all the wheel nuts are torqued well
• Like SST mentions, you may want to try a strut from a different car (Healthy one)
• You mention that the Rims are new, why not shift the front ones to rear and check too
• If the ASC agrees, you can install the Rotor Assembly (Including the Hub) of a different car and check this
• Weak Ball joint ends, Lower arms cannot be ruled out although Ball joints could be the primary among these two

The problem was indeed with the brake disc(RHS side) and the wrong wheel balancing. Haven't changed the disc yet, as it wasn't necessary at all. Very minor vibration is felt that too while panic braking at high speeds. Wheel balancing seems to have done the trick for now.
But will keep an eye on the discs, will replace them after some months.

Regards,
Shashi

[rajeshadd]

Dear Team BHPians,

I am writing to you on behalf of my friend. My friend has taken delivery of a brand new REXTON from the Thirunelveli , (Tamilnadu state) dealer KODAI CARS (P) Ltd, last November(Nov 2014).

Right from the day one of his driving of the vehicle, he has been experiencing abnormal steering vibration problem in the vehicle while braking. He has promptly reported the problem to the above mentioned dealership and the dealership has replaced some of the steering related parts in warranty twice, but still the problem is not resolved. We have driven the vehicle ourselves to the dealership and still the vehicle is waiting in the dealership for some steering related part to arrive. This is absolutely not acceptable for a vehicle worth of Rs.20 lakhs

Meanwhile the dealership has noted another problem with the vehicle, of a leaking clutch slave cylinder and hence a prematurely worn clutch. A leaking slave cylinder will always create abnormal and premature wear of the clutch. Instead of accepting this fact the dealer is trying to blame my friend of clutch-riding and burning the clutch and the dealer is trying to charge him for the clutch plate.

I have contacted Mahindra Customer care by email but not received any response from them yet. What should I do now..Has the dealer sold a lemon to my friend?.. Any advice from this forum, on the way forward would be very helpful..

[Strangerintown]

Are they certain it is a steering problem? Since the vibrations happen only when braking, sounds like it may be a defect in the front brake disks - though that would be unusual in a new car.

[arunkumars]

As mentioned in the previous post by strangerintown the issue most likely seems like faulty front disks or uneven thickness. The steering vibrates or shudders during breaking in speeds excess of 50kmph. Checking and replacing the disks would most likely solve the issue.
Out of curiosity- when was the vehicle manufactured?

[IshaanIan]

Check the brake rotors as everyone has already suggested, if not then it ought to be an issue with the steering rack itself. Sad to hear about the dilema with the dealership over clutch replacement. Whatever it is, all these issues must be fixed by the dealership for free under warranty/goodwill/whatever

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Hello all,
I own a 15 year old Maruti 800 DX 5 Speed. Recently got the brakes serviced at a dealer, somehow they messed up something and a problem arose.

Description and nature of the issue

• Steering Vibration upon braking
• Happens from speed 40kmph and beyond
• No pedal or floor vibration
• No sound from brakes or while steering vibration

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

1. Check for looseness, and if required change, steering ball joints & tie-rod ends
2. Check for free movement of steering with front end jacked up/on ramp
3. Tighten steering rack bolts
4. Change strut rubber kit both sides

Sir,
The previous set of troubles which I faced are completely resolved now. No steering or floor vibration upon braking. Tested them for over 1000kms.
However, today I noticed another issue when I braked hard. Let me explain.

I was at 90kmph on an empty stretch of road, when an idiot's full size helmet flew out of nowhere and was lying straight ahead of me. I had no option rather than standing on brakes and shedding speed. I slammed the brakes and held them(didn't pulsate the brake input).
Observations-
1. Initially there was no noise, say for about 2 seconds. Then a mild "Ggrrrrr" sound started which had increased to a loud humming sound by the time I had stopped.
2. No cabin vibration was felt while this humming sound came; to my ears, it was coming from front.
3. I again braked, this time gently but continuously from 90kmph and again same thing repeated. I also noticed- If steering is let loose, steering wheel doesn't turn but car has a tendency to drift towards right.

Alignment and balancing appears perfect, no issues with car pulling or vibration at speeds. It happens only during braking. Also I must mention, brake pads are new, along with front stabiliser bar bushes(changed on 9th Aug 2015).

After the brake job was done, one thing I noticed was if you stop, sometimes a very mild "Dhannn" sound comes from front, as if the brake pads are loose and moving or something is wrong. This sound wasn't there before brake pads change.

I am also attaching the latest 3D alignment report for your kind consideration-just in case if your expert eyes notice something wrong.
I have some doubts on Castor and Camber values, however mechanic said they are fine.

*Reference Values sourced from M800 Workshop Manual

* Alignment report on 23rd July 2015

*Latest Alignment report, done on 18th September 2015-Castor, Camber and Toe Values when seen top to bottom.


Regards,
Shashi

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

...a mild "Ggrrrrr" sound started which had increased

You just glazed your brake pads.

Without getting into a debate about the quality of the product you already had, I'd suggest get some good quality pads and replace the old ones.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

You just glazed your brake pads.

Without getting into a debate about the quality of the product you already had, I'd suggest get some good quality pads and replace the old ones.

Thanks for the prompt reply Sir.

I used MGP brake pads for my car which was changed at MASS about one month ago. It was KBX branded.

Link for the same-http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...ml#post3774616

Still, if there is a better product which you suggest, I won't think twice before going for them.

Awaiting your suggestions,

Regards,
Shashi

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

I used MGP brake pads for my car which was changed at MASS about one month ago. It was KBX branded.

Try Brakes India pads - don't have to be MGP. You may have been a victim of the spurious parts racket that flourishes across the country. As I said, I'd rather not have a debate on this.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

Try Brakes India pads - don't have to be MGP. You may have been a victim of the spurious parts racket that flourishes across the country. As I said, I'd rather not have a debate on this.

Sure Sir. Thanks for the suggestion.

Will the brake pads replacement solve the major issue- pulling to right while braking?? Or will I have to get the caliper overhaul done??

Also kindly have a look at the alignment values put up, just in case you notice something wrong. I have my doubts regarding different castor values of LHS and RHS- It has more than a degree of difference-can that cause any trouble??

Regards

[humyum]

Hey, Sashi,

The alignment readings are fine. Since you have got the pads, have you bedded them in?

Like did some multiple hard brake applications from 80-90 speeds while letting the pedal go just before the car comes to a stop otherwise the brake pad material get itched on the discs.

Get the tyre pressure checked first and try braking hard tomorrow whenever u see a no man's land stretch and see what happens. The stretch should be not banking on any side. Is the car braking properly ? is it still pulling to the left or right ?

Can you ask someone to record a video from inside the car when u brake next time if possible ? I don't think u have glazed the pads.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by humyum

Hey, Sashi,

The alignment readings are fine. Since you have got the pads, have you bedded them in?

Thanks for the reply Rohan Sir. I am now relieved that the caster and camber values are fine.
I didn't take any specific measures to bed in the brake pads, just drove naturally. The mechanic told me to be gentle with the brakes for 10 kilometers, and I ensured that. I never held the brakes after car came to a halt, since that might sometimes damage the discs also.

Get the tyre pressure checked first and try braking hard tomorrow whenever u see a no man's land stretch and see what happens. The stretch should be not banking on any side. Is the car braking properly ? is it still pulling to the left or right ?

Can you ask someone to record a video from inside the car when u brake next time if possible ? I don't think u have glazed the pads.

I keep a tyre gauge and pump everytime in my car specifically for this purpose.
I will try to do hard braking while recording a video next time I hit the empty highways. As of now, I am having no issues within city speeds. Yesterday I went till 70kmph, the brake drag was not very evident.

Still I have thought of getting the calipers overhauled anyway within a month or so. They have already done more than 2lac kms and are 16 years old.

Regards,
Shashi

[adimicra]

Need some help in diagnosing the root cause for the below issue -
I posted this thread
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...to-pieces.html

The tire was really cut into pieces as you can see.
But prior to that, I did notice some vibration in the car at speeds >100 kmph.
Since I was on the highway, I decided not to go above 100 kmph till I reach Hyderabad. So did not exceed 100 kmph for the most part.
But, still the unfortunate incident happened.

The vibration was mostly felt in the footwell area where you rest your foot beside the clutch and also in the seats. Steering vibration was relatively much less.
Also, it is the right rear tyre which got damaged.

Any pointers?
I am thinking if there was a small puncture or air loss which was causing the vibration that ultimately resulted in the tyre getting ripped.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by adimicra

Need some help in diagnosing the root cause for the below issue -
I posted this thread
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...to-pieces.html

The tire was really cut into pieces as you can see.
But prior to that, I did notice some vibration in the car at speeds >100 kmph.
Since I was on the highway, I decided not to go above 100 kmph till I reach Hyderabad. So did not exceed 100 kmph for the most part.
But, still the unfortunate incident happened.

The vibration was mostly felt in the footwell area where you rest your foot beside the clutch and also in the seats. Steering vibration was relatively much less.
Also, it is the right rear tyre which got damaged.

Any pointers?
I am thinking if there was a small puncture or air loss which was causing the vibration that ultimately resulted in the tyre getting ripped.

I went through the post today morning and was horrified to say the least. Unless the vehicle had hit something or this particular wheel was completely deflated, it can only be attributed to manufacturing defect. What did the Michelin dealer say??

Vibration in the footwell area is mostly due to unbalanced tires, and they appear to be speed sensitive- happens only in certain ranges of speed due to a phenomenon called resonance. And moreover, since the damaged tyre was in the rear, I don't think both the incidents are related in anyway. Your front wheels might still be having the imbalance IMO- get that rectified.

Regards

[adimicra]

Posted in the other thread that the culprit was a hacksaw blade
Now the only question is - does the vibration which I experienced was due to this? Seems very likely.

I will get a new tyre tomorrow and test out the car on the Outer ring road at 120kmph and check out the vibration.