[Gurjot]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

The headlight reflectors as well as the glass goes bad, and power lamps won't help.
You can

• Try glass and reflector restoration(toothpaste tc.,)
• Get new headlights(expensive)
• Get Aux lamps

If you wire your Aux lamps with a relay directly with battery, it won't cause any problems.

Dear TSK1979 & other Senior Members

Thanks for your inputs & advice, i did get the following work done
- Located a technician who opened the light glass from the front side & did the repolishing / buffing of the reflectors ( they do look new now )
- The impact would be visible on a highway - although in a short drive the light quality has definately improved.

Also my beast was giving some high vibrations ( which used to increase once i used to cross 80 kMPH ) & while ignition also the same was high, so the technicia checked the engine mounts & they were almost non existent. Replaced them the beast is purring like a cat now. Also the technician told me that in Safari 2.2 the weight of the engine & the engine mounts are not compatible so they wear our faster hence needs to be checked.

Also i m facing a knocking issue for which he has recommended me to put around 300 - 500 ml of engine oil along side every tank full of diesel, as he says this is due to injector noise. So need your comments / inputs on whether this would suffice or System D ( as per my technician - System D should not be used in CRDI engines )

Look forward

Regards

Gurjot

[tsk1979]

Originally Posted by Gurjot

Also i m facing a knocking issue for which he has recommended me to put around 300 - 500 ml of engine oil along side every tank full of diesel, as he says this is due to injector noise. So need your comments / inputs on whether this would suffice or System D ( as per my technician - System D should not be used in CRDI engines )

Look forward

Regards

Gurjot

Please don't
Get clean diesel. Get water drained from Sedimenter. That should be good enough. Also get injectors checked. Tata workshops check injector backflow to determine injector function and its pretty accurate.

[Gurjot]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

Please don't
Get clean diesel. Get water drained from Sedimenter. That should be good enough. Also get injectors checked. Tata workshops check injector backflow to determine injector function and its pretty accurate.

Dear TSK - just a small clarification - you mean not to use system D & get the sedimenter drained of water.

Regards

Gurjot

[IN-RJ]

Originally Posted by Gurjot

just a small clarification - u mean not to use system D & get the sedimenter drained of water.

Regards

Gurjot

Your mechanic used wrong word (engine oil). Actually it is 2T oil. Some people use it in older diesel engine when they start knocking but this concept was only good for older DI engines (simple engines).

Knocking occurs because of bad timing or injector clogging or interrupted fuel flows (in both petrol and diesel engines).

Engine oil is strictly no no. It will be deposit on piston heads.

For use of system D surf the forum, there is a separate long thread on additives.

[Jaggu]

Originally Posted by Gurjot

Also i m facing a knocking issue for which he has recommended me to put around 300 - 500 ml of engine oil along side every tank full of diesel, as he says this is due to injector noise. So need your comments / inputs on whether this would suffice or System D ( as per my technician - System D should not be used in CRDI engines )

Originally Posted by tsk1979

Get clean diesel. Get water drained from Sedimenter. That should be good enough. Also get injectors checked. Tata workshops check injector backflow to determine injector function and its pretty accurate.

Originally Posted by Gurjot

Dear TSK - jus a small clarification - u mean not to use system D & get the sedimenter drained of water.

No he meant clean the sedimenter and then check the injector functioning using proper tools that are available at Tata workshops.

Originally Posted by IN-RJ

Knocking occurs because of bad timing or injector clogging or interrupted fuel flows (in both petrol and diesel engines).

Engine oil is strictly no no. It will be deposit on piston heads.

And can harm the high pressure fuel rail system.

What i would suggest is clean / replace filter, clean the sedimenter and drain off any muck that is accumulated. If the issue persist you can dump a can of System D in and check after a tank full, this is good to remove any minor blocks and rejuvenate fuelling system. It doesn't cause any issues in crde engines, infact Tata recommends using similar product, if i remember correct from Bardhal to clean injectors.

If this also does not solve, you might want to get the injectors serviced and calibrated. 2T or engine oil should be avoided and is recommended only if you are ready to rebuild the engine and is looking for couple of 1000 kms more from the ailing engine.

[MOHAN_99]

Hello experts,
Not sure if this is the right place to post this. Mods: Please move where deemed appropriate.
My Tata Safar dicor 2.2 (2011) has developed the following problem:
While starting the relay clicks but the engine does not crank. After 2 or 3 attempts the cranking is ok and a quick start takes place.
Starter is not stuck and the battery appears to be ok. (lights, horn etc.)

Any help will be highly appreciated. Thanks.

[Prowler]

Originally Posted by MOHAN_99

My Tata Safar dicor 2.2 (2011) has developed the following problem:
While starting the relay clicks but the engine does not crank. After 2 or 3 attempts the cranking is ok and a quick start takes place.
Starter is not stuck and the battery appears to be ok. (lights, horn etc.)

I have had a similar issue with my Dicor when it was under warranty period. They replaced the starter motor under warranty.

[anupmathur]

Originally Posted by MOHAN_99

.....
While starting the relay clicks but the engine does not crank. After 2 or 3 attempts the cranking is ok and a quick start takes place.
....

The bendix in the starter motor is defective. The motor should be replaced.

[TorqRpm]

Hello Experts,
My Tata Safari Dicor 4X2 (2011) has developed a peculiar problem.
1. During idling in neutral, the speedometer needle rises till 20 for couple of seconds. I have also observed that on idling milometer keeps on increasing steadily. TASS has diagnosed it to some issue in gear box, but they can't confirm until they open it. I have crossed 90K and they suggest of voluntary replacement of Clutch plates. They are saying that once the clutch job is done they'll look in the issue by opening the gearbox.
2. The AC is also behaving abruptly, sometimes it works and sometimes not. The SA says that the whole switch panel including PCB and knobs has to be replaced. I think the problem is only with Blower speed knob. Can we get the knob separately?

Please help, what shall I do? Shall I stick to TASS? I am in Noida.

Thanks a lot for your help.

[Gurjot]

Mod Note: Please avoid Quoting entire large posts for short replies, also use Multi Quote [Quote +] instead of back to back posts. Thanks.

Dear BHPians

Need your expert views on the following issue which a colleague has been facing in office with his Safari 2.2 VX 2009 ( in fact purchased along side mine ) & has done 110 K on the odo.

He had a TVS oil pump replaced / crank shaft replaced & post 1500 KMs of the same job on the ODO the engine gave a shudder while driving & the oil indicator started coming.

When the mechanic was called , he diagnosed that the oil pump has failed again & he has opened the engine - this is surprising as i feel that there would some other issue leading to frequent failing of the oil pump.

Has any one faced similar issues / or any suggested remedies on to the same.

Regards

Gurjot

Originally Posted by Jaggu

No he meant clean the sedimenter and then check the injector functioning using proper tools that are available at Tata workshops.
====
2T or engine oil should be avoided and is recommended only if you are ready to rebuild the engine and is looking for couple of 1000 kms more from the ailing engine.

Dear BHPIans

Thanks for your revert , have started using systemD & will update on the performance.

Gurjot

[jkdas]

Originally Posted by param22k

Hi jkdas! Correct me if I'm wrong. Shouldn't TASS give details of the suspension parts that require replacement, instead of a generic "Front Suspension - Dismantle & Assemble with new Parts / Rear Axle Shaft - Remove & Install with Parts"? How can a comparison be made if details of parts that require replacement are not given?
Cheers!


Hi roby! A suggestion. You could try changing engine oil every 7500, should still be cheaper than synthetic oil every 15000. This works for me.

They should. Havent had good experience will the last TASS and hence my Safari is worked by a local Tata expert for last 60-70k !

[saurabh2711]

HI All,

Need your inputs on the battery change for my Safari.
Car was stationary for 7 days & battery drained out completely. Jump started it using power from my Esteem. Ran safari for 15-20 minutes. Shut down the engine to restart & check if there was some charge in it. For my surprise the battery did not charged at all. Even the instrument panel lights were dim than the normal.

This is second occurrence in last few months.

Can you please suggest on following:
1: How do I check who is as fault: Battery or the Alternator? Battery is the stock model that came in with it in Sep-2010. I know I am too optimistic for the battery to be in working condition.
2: Has anyone used any battery higher than the stock rated 80AH? Probably 85AH or 90AH.
3: Can I upgrade to a battery higher than this rating? If yes, what is the max i can go to.
Reason for this is that I run on 100/90 in Headlights & I have two Hella-500FF fitted that i use for long runs, 55W each.

Regards,
Saurabh.

[anupmathur]

Originally Posted by saurabh2711

....
3: Can I upgrade to a battery higher than this rating? If yes, what is the max i can go to.
....

The largest that will fit on the battery holding tray.
Your OEM battery has given yeoman service; time to change it.

[Prowler]

Originally Posted by saurabh2711

Can you please suggest on following:
1: How do I check who is as fault: Battery or the Alternator? Battery is the stock model that came in with it in Sep-2010. I know I am too optimistic for the battery to be in working condition....

Reason for this is that I run on 100/90 in Headlights & I have two Hella-500FF fitted that i use for long runs, 55W each.

Simple: Use a digital Voltmeter and hook up to your battery. Keep the engine running for at least 3 minutes. It should show between 13.3V to 14.9V depending on the charge. Raise the engine rpm and check if the voltage rises. If it rises, add additional load eg. Headlights. The voltage reading should remain steady (with increase in rpm). If it remains steady, your alternator is Ok.

But to tell you the truth - your battery is at the end of its useful life going by its age. Don't wait till it conks out completely. It may ruin your alternator.

Safari DiCOR has 120 A alternator which can supply your lighting load at normal road speed. Your headlights draw about 16 A and your Hellas draw about 9 A. It is manageable as long as you maintain decent engine rpm. If you slow down, it would be better to shut off excess lighting load.

[TorqRpm]

Originally Posted by TorqRpm

Hello Experts,
My Tata Safari Dicor 4X2 (2011) has developed a peculiar problem.
1. During idling in neutral, the speedometer needle rises till 20 for couple of seconds. I have also observed that on idling milometer keeps on increasing steadily. TASS has diagnosed it to some issue in gear box, but they can't confirm until they open it. I have crossed 90K and they suggest of voluntary replacement of Clutch plates. They are saying that once the clutch job is done they'll look in the issue by opening the gearbox.
2. The AC is also behaving abruptly, sometimes it works and sometimes not. The SA says that the whole switch panel including PCB and knobs has to be replaced. I think the problem is only with Blower speed knob. Can we get the knob separately?

Please help, what shall I do? Shall I stick to TASS? I am in Noida.

Thanks a lot for your help.

Well, went to TASS and persuaded them to carryout the diagnosis without clutch job. In between the check engine light also appeared. Problem identified was worn out gears in gear box. Gear box was opened and worn out gears were replaced. Also the whole AC panel was replaced. Problem is resolved as of now as I have completed 100 km run post fix without any issues. However, I can see reduction in power. TASS say that power is OK. Well can't think of any other option rather than sticking to TASS and accept what they say.