[Prowler]

Originally Posted by LongDrive lover

Hello all,


Now I'll be going on my 1st Ladhak trip with family in June 2nd week. Routine complete service including gear oil and air filter change, is done.

Need advise on the following aspects:

1. Timing belt change... though TASS people say, its ok, but I know importance of changing it beforehand rather then waiting till last moment, so will be changing it in next 2 days, so that will have good 10-11 days to see if everything is fine. (Is it OK?)

2. TASS guy on recent service (few days ago) also advised to change break pads (both front & rear!!).. though rear pads are stock one, but front ones are just 21k kms old and I don't feel any problem with bite in breaks?

Should I go for change of both or only rear pads or none before the trip?

3. What is the thickness of Safari DICOR's OEM new Discs? and how long they are expected to last when driven normally (i.e. without hard breaking)?

Actually, want to check the wear & tear in discs too and see how much thickness has reduced!

4. He also suggested to go for replacement/work on parts of front suspension (tie rods, central pin, bushes, etc.) saying they 'ghish gaye hain' !!


5. OEM battery was changed after 5 yrs in mid 2014, no problem so far with battery. Will it be OK in high passes or will give any starting trouble?

Your valuable inputs are requested.

1. Get the timing belt changed. They last for 5-6 years. When they change the timing belt, they might also change the water pump, pulley etc.

2. It would be worth your while to change the brake pads for the rear wheels.

3. Disc Rotors' life depends a lot on the usage. I have seen many Safaris going strong with OEM Rotors well in to 50,000 km and some have mentioned in this forum that they changed at 20,000.

4. It would be a good idea to change the suspension kits now before you go on such an arduous journey.

5. Check your battery with a reliable battery dealer. Cold climates lower the capacity of the battery as well as making the engine harder to turn.

[LongDrive lover]

Originally Posted by Prowler

1. Get the timing belt changed.
2. It would be worth your while to change the brake pads for the rear wheels.
3. Disc Rotors' life depends a lot on the usage.
4. It would be a good idea to change the suspension kits now before you go on such an arduous journey.
5. Check your battery with a reliable battery dealer.

Thanks for your balanced and valuable responses.

[Kams_cars]

Originally Posted by Kams_cars

Hello All,

I currently drive Storme EX 2015 March completed 40K a week ago. I 've earlier reported a problem with A/C to TASS @ Sanathnagar, Hyderabad.

It was during March 2017, while travelling in busy roads of Hyderabad, we were stranded in a traffic jam. The A/C was kept at 2 and internal circulation ON.

Few mins into the Jam, we started facing some humidity inside cabin. I turned off internal circulation off, we increased the A/C level to 3, still humidity was felt.

I took it to TASS, they as usual laid back display of service. They kept the car for 3 days, said the a/c temp is as per standards. I insisted them to check on the gas levels, no luck.

Yesterday, I had to wait in an open parking lot post 7pm - 8pm. With Family in the car I have put the A/C at level 3 with internal circulation off and rear roof mounted a/c at max. Still everybody inside car complained of humidity. I could feel my skin sticky.

But during nights, post 9:30 pm or so, A/C at level 1/2 works just fine for me.

Please suggest where to start and what to get fixed.

Appreciate your inputs and suggestions in advance

SOLUTION::

With advise from my friend, I visited Mohan ac works @ Balkampet auto corridor in Hyderabad.

The owner/chief of the shop took stock of the situation immediately and found that A/C FAN wasn't spinning et all. He suggested either I could visit showroom guys to find out more. Or they can help with fan checks.

As showroom being close by (1km), I visited my SA@ Concorde, Sanathnagar, in short notice. He just payed a glimpse to A/C Fan and said, its working.

I look down for 2mins and say, check again- it isn't rotating. He then inspects and agrees to it.

He immediately asks me to open the bonnet and checked A/C Fuse. It was blown.

he replaced it in 2mins. Its a 25Amps Fuse, the first one in fuse box, yellow colored. Result - Powerful chilling a/c is back.

Now, I repent, why did I not force the SA during my last visit in March :(

It is so peaceful to my heart and mind, that a/c is working as good as new again

Thanks.

[joshuakeys]

Originally Posted by Kams_cars

SOLUTION::

With advise from my friend, I visited Mohan ac works @ Balkampet auto corridor in Hyderabad.

he replaced it in 2mins. Its a 25Amps Fuse, the first one in fuse box, yellow colored. Result - Powerful chilling a/c is back.

Now, I repent, why did I not force the SA during my last visit in March :(

It is so peaceful to my heart and mind, that a/c is working as good as new again

Thanks.

Hey Kams_cars,

Good that it's sorted out and thanks for putting up the solution here, my friends safari dicor has this similar issue, it's still there and he has almost given up on this issue, will ask him to check fan and the fuse .

Hope it works for him too.

Cheers
Josh

[Prowler]

Originally Posted by Kams_cars

SOLUTION::


he replaced it in 2mins. Its a 25Amps Fuse, the first one in fuse box, yellow colored. Result - Powerful chilling a/c is back.

Now, I repent, why did I not force the SA during my last visit in March :(

It is so peaceful to my heart and mind, that a/c is working as good as new again

Your symptoms don't correspond with the blown fuse. If the fuse is blown, your AC stops working. It won't work only during evening or only refuse to work during the day. Apparently it was an intermittent problem. It comes and goes on its own.

That 25 A fuse is a known issue with Safaris. We always carried a 25 A fuse in our kit just to be on the safe side earlier. Then they replaced it with 30 A fuse and the problem stopped. Fuse issues are rarely intermittent. Relays or their sockets can throw intermittent problems.

[Kams_cars]

Originally Posted by Prowler

Your symptoms don't correspond with the blown fuse. If the fuse is blown, your AC stops working. It won't work only during evening or only refuse to work during the day. Apparently it was an intermittent problem. It comes and goes on its own.

That 25 A fuse is a known issue with Safaris. We always carried a 25 A fuse in our kit just to be on the safe side earlier. Then they replaced it with 30 A fuse and the problem stopped. Fuse issues are rarely intermittent. Relays or their sockets can throw intermittent problems.

Thank you for the feedback.

The a/c still worked but with less effiency. I had to put it at 3 speed and internal circulation ON. I remember, the front blower fan used to make high rotation sound. Later, when the fuse was replaced, at similar conditions the front blower fan noise was reduced to 80%.

I wasn't aware of the fuse things in car, my ignorance

[prits_moh]

Hi,
The battery terminals were clamped incorrectly after the battery was recharged and brought back home. As a result , im assuming fuse or fuses are blown. Symptoms - no cranking, no lights, no alarm, no music system. When i placed the key in the ignition and turned it on, the dashboard lit up, but no cranking. (i dont recall seeing the service light coming up though.)
Q1 - could this issue be beyond fuses/relays blowing up.
Q2 - could there be multiple fuses blown or just 1 or 2.
Q3 - what other checks should i do to ensure all is well with electrical equipments in the car.

Thanks much for answers.

[condor]

1) What do mean by "incorrectly"
2) does the battery have charge ?

[asheorey]

I am facing a peculiar problem with my Tata Safari 2.2 Dicor 2012 model. The check sedimentor light is displayed even though the sedimentor was cleaned in about 10 days go. I normally fill fuel only at Shell . When I start the car , the idling rises above 800-900 and goes upto 1500 . If i press the brake, the RPM drops to 800-900 and stays there as long as my foot is on the brake. I am going to Tata-Concorde on 26.08.2017. Can someone guide?

[CRDIsamir]

Originally Posted by asheorey

I am facing a peculiar problem with my Tata Safari 2.2 Dicor 2012 model. The check sedimentor light is displayed even though the sedimentor was cleaned in about 10 days go. I normally fill fuel only at Shell . When I start the car , the idling rises above 800-900 and goes upto 1500 . If i press the brake, the RPM drops to 800-900 and stays there as long as my foot is on the brake. I am going to Tata-Concorde on 26.08.2017. Can someone guide?

If you are sure that there is no water in the sedimentor then either the sensor is corrupt or there is a problem in the wiring of the sensor. Changing the sensor should solve the issue.

[bj96]

Facing this weird issue since past few days. I have factory fitted OEM Minda Remote Locking system in my 2009 VX. When I manually lock the passenger door with key all doors lock (means solenoid and central actuator seems to be working okay) . When I use lock button (same result with either) on remote all doors lock except passenger door. I see this (passenger) door lever doesn't go down fully when using remote. Have tried with new 12v battery (MN 27a checked with multimeter about 12.16v) in both remotes- same result. Car battery is new.

What is happening? Any pointers highly appreciated.

tia,
-BJ

[MOHAN_99]

Hi,
Does any DIY techie know how to remove the driver side door panel in a Tata Safari Dicor 2012? I need to replace the driver side master actuator. My vehicle is out of warrantee.
I have good knowledge of electronic & electrical systems and have just repaired and modified the CLU below the driver seat. Thanks.

[indigo74]

Originally Posted by bj96

Facing this weird issue since past few days. I have factory fitted OEM Minda Remote Locking.

What is happening? Any pointers highly appreciated.

tia,
-BJ

The latch assembly is rusted/ frozen. Have it opened by a mechanic.he should lubricate it by oil,free all moving parts by WD40. Should solve the problem. If latch is rusted beyond repair, new one will cost about 1000 ₹.
Best regards,
Abhay.

[bj96]

Originally Posted by indigo74

The latch assembly is rusted/ frozen...

Thanks for the revert. Exactly the problem was. Have used WD40 (DIY) on the latch and it is working fine now. Will try to open the latch when have some time.

-BJ

[indigo74]

Glad to know that.cheers.