[FlatOut]

Originally Posted by Viraat13

Hi guys. Today I did a some DIY on my E220 and 300E.
Another peculiar problem has cropped up in my 300E. The seatbelt warning lamp doesn't stop flashing, even after the car has been locked. It was flashing most of the day yesterday, and last night. This morning, as a last resort, I removed the bulbs from it. I'll visit the electrician soon, but does any one know what could cause this?

Well, there will be a switch under the seat to sense when it is occupied, and a connection made when the seat-belt buckle is fastened. Since these are the only two moving components of the circuit (apart from a relay) then these two would be the first place I might look.

I'm sorry I'm not any more help here, but I've never had to investigate this circuit. If it's not discharging the battery when left for a few days, I wouldn't worry too much. Unlike a more modern car when a circuit flags up a fault, your 124 won't ctop running!

I know someone with a newish car and their 'bonnet open' sensor decided it was when it wasn't. This prevented the car from being started, cost Rp5000 ish just for the part and took over a week to arrive from the factory in another country. What a nightmare newer cars are.

[supercars]

Can you tell me where the Cabin Air Temperature Sensor is ?

Just check the fuse or the relay for the a/c and seatbelt warning problem.

There is also a dumb way to solve the seatbelt light. Just engage all seatbelts.

[Ravindra M]

Originally Posted by Viraat13

I will be removing and re-fitting the left tail light, so that I can clean out the mud, in a couple of days, so I will take pics and put up a guide if someone else wants to know.

I also cleaned up the cabin air temperature sensor in the 300E, ...

AnThe seatbelt warning lamp doesn't stop flashing, even after the car has been locked...

Dear Viraat,

I will eagerly wait for your guide for tail light replacement. I need to do it for my car. Also please update regarding your investigations about air temp sensor and seat belt lamp issues. Thanks in advance.

[Viraat13]

Originally Posted by FlatOut

Well, there will be a switch under the seat to sense when it is occupied, and a connection made when the seat-belt buckle is fastened. Since these are the only two moving components of the circuit (apart from a relay) then these two would be the first place I might look.

I'm sorry I'm not any more help here, but I've never had to investigate this circuit. If it's not discharging the battery when left for a few days, I wouldn't worry too much. Unlike a more modern car when a circuit flags up a fault, your 124 won't ctop running!

I know someone with a newish car and their 'bonnet open' sensor decided it was when it wasn't. This prevented the car from being started, cost Rp5000 ish just for the part and took over a week to arrive from the factory in another country. What a nightmare newer cars are.

I shall check that out. Maybe in the evening. It's really hot outside right now (45 degrees!), so a person really doesn't feel like doing much.

It's just 3 bulbs of 2 watts each. Really can't discharge a car battery.

Originally Posted by supercars

Can you tell me where the Cabin Air Temperature Sensor is ?

Just check the fuse or the relay for the a/c and seatbelt warning problem.

There is also a dumb way to solve the seatbelt light. Just engage all seatbelts.

I'm making a little guide. I shall post it soon.

Check the relay for the AC? Will a bad relay cause the compressor to stay on all the time?

I engaged the front two, but it didn't make any difference. Anyway, can't check now. I pulled out the bulbs from the warning lamp!

Originally Posted by Ravindra M

Dear Viraat,

I will eagerly wait for your guide for tail light replacement. I need to do it for my car. Also please update regarding your investigations about air temp sensor and seat belt lamp issues. Thanks in advance.

I shall put up the guide on the tail lamp replacement in a couple of days. I'll probably click the photographs while I'm at the mechanics tomorrow.

I will keep you guys updated on the other issues as and when I tackle them.

I'm going and making the guide. It should be up in about 30 minutes.

[Viraat13]

SO! Here it is.
I've used my spare interior lamp, so it isn't an exact guide from inside the car. But it'll give you a fair idea of what you ought to be doing.

So first, the location of the cabin air temperature sensor. If you look at your roof lamp, you'll see some vents in the corner. That is where the temperature sensor is. I have marked it out in the first picture at the bottom of the post.
Now, from what I have read is, that not every car has this sensor. If your car doesn't have this sensor, there will be a conical rubber plug, as is present in my spare lamp. The plug is visible in the last picture.

To gain access to this sensor, you need to remove the lamp. If you see the second picture, I have marked the spots where you should gently insert a blunt screw driver and press down on the clips. I used my Swiss Army knife (pictured) as it is fairly blunt, and is exactly as wide as the clip. The clip in front is far easier to disengage, so you should go for that first.
Once both the clips are disengaged, the light will be half out so you just need to shift it to the right and pull it down.

Once you have pulled it down, you'll see the plug right behind the switch. To pull it out, you need to press along the ribbed section of the plug, and pull it out.

On the other side, you'll see one pipe, and one tiny sensor with two wires coming out the back. To pull the sensor out, use a tiny screwdriver and lift up one of the long slim clips, and the rest will pull out with a firm pull. To remove the pipe, you will need to rotate the entire lamp assembly, and gently pull out the pipe. A word of warning. If you're doing this while your car is parked in the sun, make SURE that you don't touch the metal behind the light, you WILL burn your fingers.

In the last picture, the location of the sensor is marked out. If the attachment of the pipe was present in this photo, it would point north.

The temperature sensor stays in the car, so you will have to clean it with some cleaning alcohol/contact cleaner. If you have neither, use vodka.

Since the interior lamp is already out, I recommend that you clean it up as it is bound to be dirty.

In the last picture, I have also marked a tiny tab. Push against it, and lift up the lid very GENTLY. It only opens up to an angle of 90 degrees. Under this, you'll see that the inside of the lamp is pretty dirty. Remove both the bulbs (IF needed), and clean it up with some cotton. Clean the reflectors with a cotton ball soaked in some soapy solution or cleaning alcohol.

You should also take out the time to check if the switch is working smoothly. Examine the channel of the switch carefully, and you will see that it has ridges at every point where it is supposed to stop. If the switch isn't working smoothly, take some cleaning alcohol on a ear bud, and wipe the edges (don't let any of it seep inside), then once the alcohol has dried, take the other end of the bud and put some Vaseline on it and smear a tiny amount on the path of the switch and move it a few times. It should smoothen out a fair bit, and hopefully, improve with time.

Installing the unit, is the exact opposite of uninstalling it. Slot the lamp into the roof from the left first, make sure all the wires are safely tucked in behind the lamp, and gently press it back into the roof. You will hear/feel each of the clips popping back into place.

If anyone has any doubts, please ask!

I DO NOT TAKE ANY RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY SCREW UP!
I have done this same procedure a few times in different cars, without any trouble. And more importantly, without any damage to the lamp or the interior of the car. This was because I was cautious and gentle with the parts and handled the tools in the proper manner.

[supercars]

Thanks for posting the Interior Lamp Guide.

My advice is to take the A/C Relay out of it's socket. Check for damage and if you see none then just spray some WD40 and insert it back firmly in place. This can be done by yourself also under 10 minutes

I hope your problem gets solved soon.

btw on an off topic note can someone confirm if the Corolla comes only with Lap Belts at the rear ?

[DeepakMenon]

Compressor cut of is controlled by the KILMA relay behind the battery; check online there is ton of resource on how to test it


Nice write-up on cleaning up the temp sensor; guess i will also do it

[Viraat13]

Originally Posted by supercars

Thanks for posting the Interior Lamp Guide.

My advice is to take the A/C Relay out of it's socket. Check for damage and if you see none then just spray some WD40 and insert it back firmly in place. This can be done by yourself also under 10 minutes

I hope your problem gets solved soon.

btw on an off topic note can someone confirm if the Corolla comes only with Lap Belts at the rear ?

Yeah, I've been meaning to do that, but I don't know for sure which is the AC relay. My dad does, so I guess he'll take care of it one of these days.

Originally Posted by DeepakMenon

Compressor cut of is controlled by the KILMA relay behind the battery; check online there is ton of resource on how to test it


Nice write-up on cleaning up the temp sensor; guess i will also do it

Yep. Thanks. I first want to get the AC gas refilled before a do anything that cuts it out. It's getting really hot, and the AC is barely keeping up. Unlike the E220, where I still feel cold every now and then.



So, the issue with the brakes was finally resolved today. It was the front discs that were the problem, which is a bit strange.
Anyway, they were turned on a lathe, I installed new brake pads. Perfect braking, no noise. I'm very happy!

I even got the throttle body cleaned out, so the car is running smoother.

I also took off the left tail lamp today and cleaned it out. I'll be making a guide for it soon.

[DeepakMenon]

Originally Posted by Viraat13

Yep. Thanks. I first want to get the AC gas refilled before a do anything that cuts it out. It's getting really hot, and the AC is barely keeping up. Unlike the E220, where I still feel cold every now and then.

.

If the AC gas is too low then the compressor wont start only; provided the pressure switch is working

ideally there is no need to fill AC gas as it is sealed system and there ideally should be no loss; unless a leak

TEST the KILMA; the compressor cycles only under certain circumstances and not periodically

[shekaran]

Hi,
just recently migrated to NZ, settling down still in Auckland. Got myself treated to a 2 owner (both lady owners) NZ new Mercedes E220 on the next day i passed my Driving License Test.

am subscribed to this thread, watching closely. and i may need a wiring kit for my E220, in the future, as mine is a 1994 model, but its running now fine.

any info on getting a full wiring harness for a 1994 E220 with M111 engine is appreciated. can mail in PM, the VIN & Engine Nos. for a clearer part no. requirement. Thanks in advance for all the info sharing.

Cheers, Have a Nice Weekend.

[911varun]

Originally Posted by shekaran

Hi,
any info on getting a full wiring harness for a 1994 E220 with M111 engine is appreciated. can mail in PM, the VIN & Engine Nos. for a clearer part no. requirement. Thanks in advance for all the info sharing.

Cheers, Have a Nice Weekend.

The harness would be only available through MB dealerships, that is the genuine one. Otherwise, you can also get it repaired by a quality wiring guy locally.

What are the problems you are facing due to it?

[manikjeet]

I have recently purchase a W124 E220 Mercedes run around 225000 kms.everything is fine and i am love driving it around.

Only thing which is troubling me a is a non working speed o meter as the cable is broken from the gearbox end. I would like fellow members to help me with the part number or locating the part for me please

Thanks and regards
Manik

[FlatOut]

Shekaran, that looks like a tidy car. Does she go as well as the shiny paint looks? I would be looking to replace the transmission fluid asap unless there is proof for when it was done. There are two drains for it, one from the torque converter, one from the box itself - I've known otherwise good mechanics overlook this. It's not a quick job, make sure the volume of fluid used is as per spec. Have the differential fluid changed as well - that's a lot quicker.

Manik, the part number you need is 124 540 1368. Use a genuine part.

[Karadi]

Originally Posted by CrazyStuff

Hi All,

Recently bought a 1994 E300 6-Cylinder Automatic Diesel, the car is in good shape and has done 1.6k on ODO. Below are the repairs/fixes done so far:

1. Driver side power window not working properly due to faulty teeth – replaced the same.
2. Fixed broken back bumper and painted
3. Cleaned the rust on all doors and painted the rusted part.
4. Water leak under the passenger carpet – this issue is comment to most of the W124’s due to battery water leakage and rusting of battery compartment. Replaced the metal sheet and fixed.
5. Cleaned the clogged radiator – resulting in overheating.
6. Changes all four tyres with Hankook – 205-65-R15
7. Replaced the Power antenna rubber boot.

I want to replace the 1. Sunroof rubber beading 2. Passenger Side Mirror [mirror only]. 3. Insider rearview mirror and if possible 4. Clear lens head light [poor lights now]
The car runs like a dream and giving me an average of 11-12 KMPL on city and above 14 on Highways.

Is there any spare parts shop available in Bangalore, Mumbai or Chennai where I can get W124 parts for reasonable rate? The work shop fellows are charging insane margins for the spares when asked.

Thanks

Great going - much better mileage figures than what I achieve at Bangalore !
I have a E250 D and would like to procure an antenna boot , may I know where you sourced the same and at what price please?
Thanks.

[manikjeet]

Originally Posted by Karadi

Great going - much better mileage figures than what I achieve at Bangalore !
I have a E250 D and would like to procure an antenna boot , may I know where you sourced the same and at what price please?
Thanks.

I would also like to know where to source the antenna boot and also the wiring diagram for the same.