[DeepakMenon]

Originally Posted by FlatOut

As a long-term W124 driver who does all his own maintenance and repairs, I strongly recommend using the lubricants, fluids and other parts which Mercedes themselves supply or suggest.

In my experience, using non-standard parts and oils/coolant means reduced lifespan of the car. Since MB antifreeze/coolant last for many years more than the regular 'cheap' stuff and will not damage the inside of your engine, why use something which could and will need replacing much more regularly?

It does make sense with parts; however consumables like OIL; there is no oil that MB produces; just look at the list of oil MB recommends and buy locally

Greases; use the right type like white lithium, copper etc no need to buy MB

As far as coolant; ideally MB recommends their coolant; i believe it is not blue in color; but hard to get and is better than the ones we get here

Use the below link and your user manual

http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevoli...ets-sort1.html

[FlatOut]

And listen to the Mercedes forums - they are the people who often have the highest amount of combined knowledge, especially when it comes to running older and high mileage Benzes.

Certainly mixing MB coolant with the common blue variety is not recommended, it can create sludges which hamper flow.

[Viraat13]

Agreed, mixing coolants is a big no. This is why I always flush the radiator before a coolant change.

As far as the brand of coolant — I've been using Golden Cruiser quite happily. It's a good brand. But as far as I can tell, the major role of coolant in our climate is to prevent rusting wherever the coolant flows. There is really no chance of the coolant freezing in this climate. Either way, water carries more heat per unit than coolant.

Having said that, I use a 40:60 or 50:50 ratio of coolant and water.

[FlatOut]

An example of how older designs of Mercedes Benz cars last, if serviced and maintained correctly, with quality parts and materials.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-t...icely-run.html

[Viraat13]

Hey guys,

I've got a peculiar problem in my E220. My ABS is kicking in too soon. But only at the back. Even if I brake with moderate break pressure, I can feel the pedal vibrating, but the dag-dag-dag noise only comes from the rear! It's really confusing and it's completely ruining the driving experience.

When I got the brakes done up 14,000 kms ago, my mechanic told me that I do not need to replace the rear discs cause they only needed some planing on a lathe, so I got that done and it was fine, till a couple of weeks ago.

My first order of business next week will be to get the discs changed, but is that really what is needed?

Any ideas on what it could be?

[ajmat]

Are you sure it is the ABS kicking in or the discs are warped?

[Viraat13]

Originally Posted by ajmat

Are you sure it is the ABS kicking in or the discs are warped?

It's why I'm planning on getting the discs changed. But at the same time, I got a visual inspection done, and everything seemed fine to the mechanic. So I can't say for sure which one it is.

Good point, but isn't it odd for rear discs to warp?

[ajmat]

Originally Posted by Viraat13

Good point, but isn't it odd for rear discs to warp?

Rear discs are not used as much so get more corroded hence imbalanced. The other crazy thing is the rear brake pads wear faster since it ends up getting abrased by the corrosion as opposed to used as friction for stopping the car.

[911varun]

Well, according to me it can't be the rear disc, Please probe further at a good workshop, it could also be a bad ABS sensor, or something else.

[Viraat13]

Originally Posted by ajmat

Rear discs are not used as much so get more corroded hence imbalanced. The other crazy thing is the rear brake pads wear faster since it ends up getting abrased by the corrosion as opposed to used as friction for stopping the car.

Hmm. Certainly something that I will look into. Going to make my mechanic have a good look at the disc, and change them if needed.

Originally Posted by 911varun

Well, according to me it can't be the rear disc, Please probe further at a good workshop, it could also be a bad ABS sensor, or something else.

Varun, I tried getting the ABS control module checked, but the workshop didn't have the necessary equipment. I'd told them to disconnect the ABS unit and drive the car to check, but I think it slipped their mind. It would've given a conclusive answer to my problem.

Anyway, since I haven't got the discs changed at the rear, I think I should get that done first and take it from there.

Is your car ready? Some pictures would be nice!

[FlatOut]

Originally Posted by Viraat13

Hey guys,

I've got a peculiar problem in my E220. My ABS is kicking in too soon. But only at the back. Even if I brake with moderate break pressure, I can feel the pedal vibrating, but the dag-dag-dag noise only comes from the rear! It's really confusing and it's completely ruining the driving experience.

When I got the brakes done up 14,000 kms ago, my mechanic told me that I do not need to replace the rear discs cause they only needed some planing on a lathe, so I got that done and it was fine, till a couple of weeks ago.

My first order of business next week will be to get the discs changed, but is that really what is needed?

Any ideas on what it could be?

If it is the ABS kicking in then the pedal vibration will be the same frequency all the time. If it is corrosion or a damaged disc or two then the vibration at the pedal will be directly related to how fast you are going.

[Viraat13]

Originally Posted by FlatOut

If it is the ABS kicking in then the pedal vibration will be the same frequency all the time. If it is corrosion or a damaged disc or two then the vibration at the pedal will be directly related to how fast you are going.

Of course! I never thought of that. I've been desisting going at high speeds (anything above 60 kmph). I guess I'll just have to bite the bullet and go for it.
Thanks.

[FlatOut]

Originally Posted by Viraat13

Of course! I never thought of that. I've been desisting going at high speeds (anything above 60 kmph). I guess I'll just have to bite the bullet and go for it.
Thanks.

In my experience of W124s (and I have had several, covering many tens of thousands of miles in them), it is unknown for the ABS system to require replacement parts - whereas every other car I have owned (top Audis, VWs, Skodas, PSA Citroens and Peugeots) has needed a new sensor now and then. I live in and drive in what would be termed harsh conditions for a motor car and still adore the wonderful toughness, simplicity and quality (both in design and materials) of a W124.

Although this is a little unlikely, since you say you feel the pulsing through the brake pedal, it is possible there is a problem inside the disc-integrated drum, which the handbrake shoes bear on - such as localised corrosion. Maybe try applying the handbrake very gently at 30-40kph to see if it increases the noise/vibration.

Make sure your mechanic is a good honest one who knows his stuff - it could be something very simple indeed, especially if the problem appeared all at once.

[Viraat13]

Originally Posted by FlatOut

In my experience of W124s (and I have had several, covering many tens of thousands of miles in them), it is unknown for the ABS system to require replacement parts - whereas every other car I have owned (top Audis, VWs, Skodas, PSA Citroens and Peugeots) has needed a new sensor now and then. I live in and drive in what would be termed harsh conditions for a motor car and still adore the wonderful toughness, simplicity and quality (both in design and materials) of a W124.

Although this is a little unlikely, since you say you feel the pulsing through the brake pedal, it is possible there is a problem inside the disc-integrated drum, which the handbrake shoes bear on - such as localised corrosion. Maybe try applying the handbrake very gently at 30-40kph to see if it increases the noise/vibration.

Make sure your mechanic is a good honest one who knows his stuff - it could be something very simple indeed, especially if the problem appeared all at once.

The guy who I buy my parts from told me the same thing. That the ABS system never really goes wrong.

I've never really doubted the parking brake. 4 clicks of the pedal and it's fully engaged. I have noticed that if I have left that car parked for a week or more, the parking brake doesn't release when I pull the lever. It releases when I start moving. I just figured that it was because the car had been standing for several days.

I suppose I'll get the discs and the parking brake drum checked out as well.

Thanks for your help.

[Viraat13]

Hi guys. Today I did a some DIY on my E220 and 300E.

I replaced the interior lamp on the E220, the left indicator lamp, and the right side tail lamp. The tail light and interior lamp were time consuming as the interior lamp had to be cleaned up very carefully, and I also took the time to clean up the cabin air temperature sensor which is fixed inside the lamp.

The rear tail lamp was quite a challenge to remove, as there was no guide online, so I had to wing it. It's a really simple thing, once you know it. The biggest problem I faced was dislodging the lens from the body. It's the original lens, so the rubber had fused together with the body. When I removed it, I saw a whole lot of mud, which was damp and had caused some minor rusting on one of the inside edges. I cleaned that out and put in a 'new' (second hand) lens, with my old reflector.

I will be removing and re-fitting the left tail light, so that I can clean out the mud, in a couple of days, so I will take pics and put up a guide if someone else wants to know.

I also cleaned up the cabin air temperature sensor in the 300E, because the AC (compressor) doesn't go off on it's own. It hasn't made any difference, so I guess I shall have to look into this further. If anyone has any leads, it would be great.

Another peculiar problem has cropped up in my 300E. The seatbelt warning lamp doesn't stop flashing, even after the car has been locked. It was flashing most of the day yesterday, and last night. This morning, as a last resort, I removed the bulbs from it. I'll visit the electrician soon, but does any one know what could cause this?