Dear Manveet, first of all i am new to the forum and greatly inspired by your thread. Had bumped into you in Vasant Kunj Ambience Parking once. I am working on my own thread detailing mods etc undertaken on my Red Thar. I would like to put down a portion of that thread (awaiting clearnce from moderators for public viewing) here relevant to your current problem.
Within a few months or so of owning the Thar, i noticed a peculiar problem which maybe other owners need to note. I noticed that in my Thar (without me having tinkered anything and i had just changed over to the alloys), the front suspension upper arm was resting on its lowest position on both side and had deformed the bump stops (in fact one of them had fallen off). I had read somewhere on this forum about adjustability of torsion bar setup. Basically mine was in the extreme raised position. Because of this, the front suspension was not able to perform any downward motion from the rest position while the vehicle was travelling. I consulted a course-mate who is an expert on all things concerning automobiles and with his guidance was able to correct the torsion bar setting so as to achieve some clearance. This improved the ride quality on wide open roads at high speeds sine the front IFS was now able to do proper up and down movement from rest position. Approx clearance was checked on a showroom Thar. In fact since then i have made it a habit to check this clearance on all Thars that i come across and you will be surprised to note that many Thars, both new and old suffer the same problem. Probably, changing over to the negative offset alloys increases the wheel to wheel distance and hence the length of suspension arm movement, which causes this clearance to reduce. The present clearance on my thar is illustrated in this pic. Earlier, in rest position the arm was completely touching the bump stop.
Dear Desert Fox, I guess you are referring to the 'kich kich' kind of sound coming from the canopy. You should be able to isolate the source by pressing with your palm upwards on the hard part of the canopy (in the front cabin) while driving when you hear the sound. By applying upwards pressure, the sound should stop if the source is indeed the hard roof /canopy. The sound is caused by rubbing of the bottom edge of the hard roof against the metal frame of the body (which runs over the front door, between the A & B-pillar. A possible solution is to open the front portion of the canopy (you have to be careful so as not to break the push on plastic retainers of the canopy which have since been replaced by screws in the latest upgraded Thars) and set the hard portion properly on the frame. Some grease on the bottom edge will also help. Another possible soln is to put some rubber beading between the edge and the frame. This should make the sound go off for most of the time. But remember, the soft top keeps stretching and contracting depending whether it is wet (when parked in rain) or gets heated (when parked in the sun. So some creaks and groans will keep appearing and disappearing.
Desert Fox, regarding your other problem regarding the extremely hard suspension. I think the problem is due to the fact that suspension in a stock vehicle is designed for a maximum load carrying capacity. But most of the times, we will be riding the vehicle with much less loads. So the current setup with six leaves is a compromise between springiness~ plush ride quality and load carrying capacity (max load at which the leaf springs bottom out). So a possible solution which i have implemented in my Thar is to remove the Thrid from bottom leaf. This may not be recommended in the strictest sense, but i personally felt that my vehicle had a more plush ride after the removal.
Regarding, the rattle issue, i hope it is a minor issue caused by something loose somewhere, coz in worst case it could be a GB problem due to improper setting of bearings of the input shaft/ layshaft which causes the rattle at idle speeds. When the clutch is depressed, the input shaft and hence the layshaft get disconnected from the flywheel and hence the rattle stops.
The tail gate is supposed to open/ close smoothly, so get yours checked by ASC or any half decent denter/fitter. There is a trapezoidal wedge guide support below the lock. Closely observe if the wedge drives into the guide evenly (same clearance on top and bottom). If not you may require to set it suitably.
The reverse gear not engaging smoothly sometimes is caused by gears being in a such a rest position (about less than 5% chance) wherein they don't mesh properly. The gear should eventually engage once clutch is again depressed. In case it is happening quite often then maybe something else is wrong.
Behram Sir, just noticed the query was addressed to you, so apologies to have barged in with my views.
Last edited by aah78 : 18th October 2013 at 01:05.
Reason: Posts merged. Please use QUOTE+ / "" (MULTI-QUOTE) when replying to multiple posts. Thanks!
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