[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Originally Posted by wanderernomad

The exhaust manifold came loose during the drive which was easily fixed at the destination by tightening the bolts once again.

Dear Wanderernomad - which bolts? Or did the nuts securing the exhaust pipe to the manifold become loose? In the XDP4.90 engine exhaust system integration layout, there is a U clamp support on the RH side of the cylinder block. In most of the vehicles, this is removed by mechanics. Fit it back if it is not there in your vehicle, then the problem will get resolved.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[wanderernomad]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

[u][b] - which bolts? Or did the nuts securing the exhaust pipe to the manifold become loose?

Behram Dhabhar

Dear Sir, indeed the nuts securing the exhaust pipe had come loose and the rubber gasket had slipped onto the side. I dont remember any U clamp there. Ill fix it pronto provided somebody here knows what and where to fix. Regards.

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Originally Posted by wanderernomad

Dear Sir, indeed the nuts securing the exhaust pipe had come loose and the rubber gasket had slipped onto the side. I dont remember any U clamp there. Ill fix it pronto provided somebody here knows what and where to fix. Regards.

Dear Wanderernomad - thanks for clarifying, I knew what joint you meant. Now see the exhaust pipe. It moves vertically downwards and then takes a 90 degree turn to go horizontally towards the rear. Isn't it natural that when the engine rocks on the resilient rubber mounts, the pipe will also rotate with the engine? With this amount of cantilever and mass + collar type joint where the actual flange floats on the collar, do you actually think that 2 numbers of M10*1.5 size fasteners will keep the pipe in place? Of course the answer is "no way"! You have to break the cantilever, by providing a support to the vertical leg of the pipe. Obviously, this support must come from the most rigid member, which is the cylinder block. So, now see the cylinder block. There are two tapped holes at the bottom of the block on which a yellow passivated square rod is bolted by using allan head bolts to allow recessed mounting. Then there are two M8*1.25 size tapped holes in this square rod on which two studs are fitted. In these studs, two semi-circular supports are mounted and clamped with two nuts. Therefore, the exhaust pipe has a cranked routing at this point to match the joints. The top joint must be tightened fully after ensuring that there are no residual stresses in the assembly. If done properly, this system will last forever. If mechanics throw out all such important things, how will the vehicle work? Please get this joint introduced if it is not there in your vehicle, mostly it will not be there. As it will be difficult for you to procure the parts, as an ICA (Interim Corrective Action), at least put two lock nuts on the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe joint.

All this is known as "Vehicle Integration". It is common sense! .

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[wanderernomad]

While trying to fit a DIY dash light indicator of my battery light, am unable to locate the original alluminium casing small dash indicator, I inadvertantly shorted the connection. Now the light does not come on when I switch it on. Does this mean the battery is also not charging once the engine is started? All other electricals are working fine though I suspect my fuel needle is not working as I shorted the holder against the body of the fuel gauge.

[wanderernomad]

It was in the evening that it dawned on me that the jeep has fused circuits now. Changed the blown 10A and every thing is rosy again. Also installed the speakers into wooden speaker boxes made at home by hand and also wired the antenna to the uhf set.

[wanderernomad]

Today the starter switch died, yet again. What could be a better solution to this? This is a second switch replaced in about one year. Presently I have the combination 6 point switch where you need to twist the key for heater, release, press and turn for starter motor.

[ATUL SINGH]

Originally Posted by wanderernomad

Thank you for the kind words. Since mine are already mounted from the lower side, it may be easier to adapt your solution to mine. Will appreciate the pictures when you find time. From the picture of Mahindra Major the setup seems to be the same as mine. Does it have a single speed wiper system?

Rgds.

Dear @ Nomad, sorry for the long delay. managed some snaps today. however the clarity is not very good due to the black paint on the cover over the canopy on the wiper linkage mechanism. It would however explain the setup hopefully.

[wanderernomad]

Originally Posted by ATUL SINGH

Dear @ Nomad,

Thanks. From the pictures I can see only two Gauges, where are the others? I see you have retained the original key position for ignition. Does it have a built in heater switch or you use a separate heater switch?

[Shubhendra]

Originally Posted by wanderernomad

From the pictures I can see only two Gauges, where are the others? I see you have retained the original key position for ignition. Does it have a built in heater switch or you use a separate heater switch?

He has Hurricane (petrol) powered CJ3B hence only two meters and no heater

Shubhendra

[wanderernomad]

Originally Posted by Shubhendra

He has Hurricane (petrol) powered CJ3B hence only two meters and no heater

Shubhendra

what fun is a jeep unless your fingers go red holding on to the heater switch. What do you suggest, should I go in for a separate heater switch? My combi ignition switches are going bad within 4/5 months.

[Shubhendra]

Originally Posted by wanderernomad

What do you suggest, should I go in for a separate heater switch? My combi ignition switches are going bad within 4/5 months.

There must be some problem either with wiring or quality of switch. None of my heater (auto or manual) gave way till now.
Why dont you go for auto heater option ?

Shubhendra

[wanderernomad]

Its the quality of switch am sure. The first one wont turn to heater position in about 4 months and now the present one switches on the heater but wont crank. So am using a wire to short the points to crank the engine after the heater. I think I will shift to auto heater, its the system with a timer correct?

[Shubhendra]

Originally Posted by wanderernomad

I think I will shift to auto heater, its the system with a timer correct?

Yes Sir !

Shubhendra

[ATUL SINGH]

Originally Posted by Shubhendra

He has Hurricane (petrol) powered CJ3B hence only two meters and no heater

Shubhendra

Thanks @Shubhendra buddy for the clarification about the gauges

[ATUL SINGH]

@Wanderernomad, the wiper is a 2 speed system. Adequate for the speeds that i encounter in the CJ3B, and a vast improvement over the original top hung design
And glimpse of the first branding of my jeep