[angelfire]

Wel how do you remove the tweeter on a coaxial?..wil it affect the allignment of the speaker or wil any other prob arise if we do so??

[moralfibre]

I saw Mugen's setup and found that Illusion Audio has some nice shallow depth components. No idea about the price though.

[Mugen_Power]

Originally Posted by moralfibre

I saw Mugen's setup and found that Illusion Audio has some nice shallow depth components. No idea about the price though.

moralfibre,

I have Illusion lm6.1 Components and mounting depth is 53.3mm.
For more details click here.

For prizes PM Bass&Trouble.

Cheers,
Mugen_Power.

[Bass&Trouble]

Originally Posted by Mugen_Power

For prizes PM Bass&Trouble.
Cheers,
Mugen_Power.

Illusion Audio Lucent Series Comps, Im5.1 (5.25 inch, 2-way) - 10500/-
Illusion Audio Lucent Series Comps, Im6.1 (6.5 inch, 2-way) - 11500/-
Illusion Audio Lucent Series Comps, Im8.1 (8 inch, 2-way) - 12500/-

Illusion Audio Carbon Series Comps, Nd5.1 (5.25 inch, 2-way) - 24500/-
Illusion Audio Carbon Series Comps, Nd6.1 (6.5 inch, 2-way) - 25500/-
Illusion Audio Carbon Series Comps, Nd8.1 (8 inch, 2-way) - 27750/-

[Mugen_Power]

Originally Posted by angelfire

Wel how do you remove the tweeter on a coaxial?..wil it affect the allignment of the speaker or wil any other prob arise if we do so??

angelfire,

Why do you want to remove the tweeter from Co-axial ?

[speedzak]

Originally Posted by Mugen_Power

angelfire,

Why do you want to remove the tweeter from Co-axial ?

Yaar, to let the woofer play clean as it would in a Component.
He can get a seperate tweeter to play the highs.

[hydrashok]

Originally Posted by hydrashok

I don't think they have components in these series though. Only co-axials.

I knew I had the Blau 2006-07 mini-catalog lying around here somewhere. They do have components in the THx series:

THc 132 (130mm comps, 150W)
THc 172 (165mm comps, 180w)

[angelfire]

Originally Posted by speedzak

Yaar, to let the woofer play clean as it would in a Component.
He can get a seperate tweeter to play the highs.

Yup..thats the idea.....besides my Esteem has only 4" slot...nd the tweeter on the co axials foul with the dashboard grill....Was thinkin of JBl 427`s..but one of our bhpian friend,prince had problems installin them due to the grill problem..Cant find many components too in tht size...the ones available are are crossing my budget...Kicker has discontinued their 4' components i guess....So When navin gave the idea of removin the tweeter..tot i`d try it out...any inputs guys??

[hydrashok]

Yep, 4" components would be really tough to find.

The Blau TH series I mentioned in my earlier post has a 100mm (4") slim co-axial. It might work (if you can settle for co-axials).

The model is THx 102 (100mm, 120W). I have no idea of the pricing, though.

[angelfire]

Originally Posted by hydrashok

Yep, 4" components would be really tough to find.

The Blau TH series I mentioned in my earlier post has a 100mm (4") slim co-axial. It might work (if you can settle for co-axials).

The model is THx 102 (100mm, 120W). I have no idea of the pricing, though.

The problem is tht the tweeters do protrude a bit..and this protusion is on included in the depth req for installtion of the speakers...Nd out here in my hometown i dont have the option of many brands...so tot of removin the tweeters....Wil it affect the sound in any way??

[hydrashok]

Originally Posted by angelfire

Wil it affect the sound in any way??

Removing the tweeters and getting just the woofer-part to run will affect the sound. You will lose the highs. The co-axes work by separating the lows to the woofer, and the highs to the tweeter. Disabling the tweeter will remove all the high-frequency sounds from the output.

To fix this, you'll need to get a separate tweeter and run it with the woofer (in parallel). Most tweeters have built-in crossovers, so you may not need a separate crossover for this.

And I'm not sure how you can physically remove the tweeter from the co-axial unit (for using it separately), and whether it will affect the dynamics (physical movement, not sound output) of the woofer cone.

I don't think Navin meant physically removing the tweeter when he mentioned disabling it (correct me if I'm wrong, Navin).

Another option (which I wouldn't be happy with myself) would be to use a good full-range driver (without a whizzer cone, if possible) running with a tweeter in parallel. The full-range driver would fit into the speaker pod (i has no tweeter assembly). But the sound will be nowhere as good as a co-axial, leave alone a component.

Or you could consider ditching the OE grill unit, fit a spacer, fit a 5.25" or 6.5" component (or co-axial) and it's grill on it. Is this possible with the way the Esteem's speaker pods are?

[angelfire]

Well even i dont think Navin meant tht...but this idea struck when he was talkin about disabling the tweeters.....Nd the esteem front speaker pods are badly designed..its in a very cramped place... .Nd dont think anyone has tried fixing spacers...So tot of this...

[hkanitkar]

Moralfibre, Vid6639, Navin, Hydrashok, Sam, B&T -- Thanks a tonne guys.

@B&T : prices are way outta my budget.. so no Illusion for me.. might go for Blaupunkt @ front. Nothings decided about the rear speakers.

Will be doing the install in this or next week... Lets see how it goes

[navin]

Originally Posted by hydrashok

And I'm not sure how you can physically remove the tweeter from the co-axial unit (for using it separately), and whether it will affect the dynamics (physical movement, not sound output) of the woofer cone.

I don't think Navin meant physically removing the tweeter when he mentioned disabling it (correct me if I'm wrong, Navin).

Another option (which I wouldn't be happy with myself) would be to use a good full-range driver (without a whizzer cone, if possible) running with a tweeter in parallel.

Or you could consider ditching the OE grill unit, fit a spacer, fit a 5.25" or 6.5" component (or co-axial) and it's grill on it. Is this possible with the way the Esteem's speaker pods are?

THe grill of the Opel Astra is part of the door so you cant do this unless you are doig som serious cutting and moulding. I would recommend this only for the serious enthusiast and if you have someone like Toqueer/Anwar or Deepak Asrani in your corner.

Some coaxials have the tweeter mounted on a plastic bridge with the wires for the tweeter coming though the woofer cone. you can even see the small series cap of the tweeter. for this type of coaxial....

a) one can disonnect the tweeter and leave it and the bridge.

b) for the adventureous one can be very carefull with an exacto knife and cutwawy the whole plastic bridge with the tweeter assembly. This should (I have no mreasurements or long term listening tests to prove this) improve the dispersion of the woofer above 500Hz.

c) now once you have the tweeter dislodged from the woofer carefull shave away the plastic till you get just the tweeter with 2 plastic flanges (made from making the cutting the plastic bridge) and drill 2 holes, one on each leg of the now reduced plastic bridge (flange). Then mount the tweeter using these 2 holes where you deam fit. This tweeter can be flush mounted in the tweeter pods of many cars. Remember you have to depend on the car's tweeter's pod's grill to protect the tweeter dome.

A tricker coaxial is those with tweeters that are mounted onto the phase plug of the woofer with no plastic bridge. I have not been successful in doing surgery to such a coaxial as yet but that I feel is largely due to my time constraints. Someday I will find a way to replace tweeter with a tip-toe like phase plug.

Lastly I have been told by some that my ideas are not as easy to implement as they look. My successes has been due to the number of drivers i have played with and the failures I have learnt from. After all you do anything enough times and you do win a few (my success rate might be as bad or worse than that of the Indian Cricket team).

[Bass&Trouble]

Originally Posted by navin

A tricker coaxial is those with tweeters that are mounted onto the phase plug of the woofer with no plastic bridge. I have not been successful in doing surgery to such a coaxial as yet but that I feel is largely due to my time constraints. Someday I will find a way to replace tweeter with a tip-toe like phase plug.

There are very few co-axials that have an assembly like this, i.e. dual concentric.

Another type of coaxes, that you dont mention, and are easier to dis-assemble are the ones that have the tweeter wire running through the tweeter post, rather than being sent out through punctures in the cone. Here it would suffice to just pluck out the tweeter, or unscrew the whole post from the back, and apply a dust cap on the woofer. In my opinion, this is also the correct way to assemble coaxial speakers, although this has been met with disagreement by some earlier.