[#ish]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

HU getting reset when the battery is disconnected is a common worry and I feel in current generation aftermarket HU's they remember settings if the battery was disconnected only for a short duration. If longer than 3-4 days, then the settings will be reset.

Since the amplifier doesn't have specific markings and are not accurate, set them on all-pass and use the settings on the HU only and see if there is any change in the sound quality?! (for trial purpose only!)

Can you list what settings are you using for each speaker set?

Right. So I shall take God's name and do an all-pass on amp later today.

As far as settings go, I have JVC 740 BT headunit. Front staging set for both driver and co-driver, LPF at 120 and since its a passive set up, tweeters are auto set at 2.5 khz or there about. Slope, I oscillate between -12 db and -24 db.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by #ish

As far as settings go, I have JVC 740 BT headunit. Front staging set for both driver and co-driver, LPF at 120 and since its a passive set up, tweeters are auto set at 2.5 khz or there about. Slope, I oscillate between -12 db and -24 db.

What about the LPF for subwoofer?

I'll stick to 24dB slope if possible for all settings. If possible go down to 100Hz as LPF for front staging.

[four.bytes]

I've an i20 elite, base model.
I've basic stereo setup from my prev car, Sony Xplod.
I want to upgrade my setup, my budget is very limited and don't want a sub.
I want to use an old Android phone and attach it to amp and then to component speakers(front) and 6x9 speakers back. Can all of this be done in 12K?
Is the set-up feasible- aesthetically and technically?
I don't see the point in buying HU as they're pretty underpowered. Is my idea weird?
Any shop in Calcutta that can do this setup ?

[viXit]

Originally Posted by four.bytes

I
I want to use an old Android phone and attach it to amp and then to component speakers(front) and 6x9 speakers back. Can all of this be done in 12K?
Is the set-up feasible- aesthetically and technically?
I don't see the point in buying HU as they're pretty underpowered. Is my idea weird?
Any shop in Calcutta that can do this setup ?

Your idea might be weird, but what you're saying is actually very feasable. Since the amps take input via rca connectors anyway, you should be good. But there's a catch. Your android phone can give only two channels with an aux cable, and that would mean that you can feed only two inputs on your amplifier.

To connect to your amp with full front and back channels you might need to go for a more expensive amp with bluetooth functionality.

But I would not recommend with even such a setup, having a head unit in your dash to control all your music is very safe and convenient. No fiddling with a phone in the car.

The budget is very doable, you can get a good amp and mediocre to good speakers for that budget. Since it's a very simple setup, you can save on the installation charges by doing it yourself. You can use what you saved for better equipment. It will definitely be worth it.

I'm sorry I couldnt give model specific advice, I'm not familiar with the models in the market now. Came here for advice too.

[viXit]

I have polk audio components up front.

Stock co axials in the back, and a pioneer sub in the boot. 4 channel amp under the seat. All speakers running on channels 1 and 2. Subwoofer bridged on the remaining channels 3 and 4.

Amp was giving issues with lot of noise and also crackling through one particular channel.

Need a new amplifier. Preferably 4 channel, will add a monoblock later for the sub only.

Need good quality and good value for money suggestions please.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by viXit

Need a new amplifier. Preferably 4 channel, will add a monoblock later for the sub only.

Please mention the budget too.

[#ish]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

What about the LPF for subwoofer?

I'll stick to 24dB slope if possible for all settings. If possible go down to 100Hz as LPF for front staging.

hey Aunrag,

So I tried. Sharing picture of my amp settings. I moved the bar to flat so i guess that does it, right? Now whatever settings I choose from the HU is what is chosen?


So now, on the HU, HPF is at 120 and LPF at 100. Although my ears don't see much of a difference when I change these settings. I tried 100, 80. 80, 80. 100, 100, etc.

Also, you think time alignment can help? I tried to measure and all use the time delay settings etc. Seems like a placebo although maybe I can feel slight differences.

since the tweeters were bright, I reduced their gains by 8 DB (maximum allowed by my HU). Now they sound pretty acceptable.

but yes, I feel clarity is still left to be desired. Sound is still a bit muddy. Can amp be the culprit?

[viXit]

Originally Posted by #ish

... whatever settings I choose from the HU is what is chosen?
.....
Also, you think time alignment can help? I tried to measure and all use the time delay settings etc. Seems like a placebo although maybe I can feel slight differences.

since the tweeters were bright, I reduced their gains by 8 DB (maximum allowed by my HU). Now they sound pretty acceptable.

but yes, I feel clarity is still left to be desired. Sound is still a bit muddy. Can amp be the culprit?

What is your source for music?
what kind of device ios/android/usb drive, what interface (BT, aux?)
and what files (flac, mp3, wav) or streaming service are you using sir?

Although not addressed to me, let me answer some questions you posed to a4anurag sir.

since your amp's crossover is at FLAT, it will passthrough everything, now your head unit settings only control everything.

Time alignment really helps. I have tried it and use it when I'm alone in the car.

you can fix your bright tweeters by reducing their volume in the Equaliser too, it's much faster to alter and reverse in most head units. Where have you reduced the gain of the tweeters? on the passive crossover unit?

The cause for the muddy sound can either be a bad signal from source, a bad interface like bluetooth or distortion because of the gain on the amp being too high. hope I could help. Sorry to jump in :P

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Please mention the budget too.

Budget of 12,000.

I have a bad 4 channel that I'm using. Occasionally there is disturbance in the music. But I think I will use it for the sub and use the new 4 channel for the 4 speakers of the car.

maybe next month Will spend the same amount on speakers for the rear or damping the rear doors.

The sub has really opened up, now that it's getting more power after I remover the rear speakers from the amp.

Im not able to choose an amp, there are so many options and I'm not understanding what's better or worse.

[#ish]

Originally Posted by viXit

What is your source for music?
what kind of device ios/android/usb drive, what interface (BT, aux?)
and what files (flac, mp3, wav) or streaming service are you using sir?

Although not addressed to me, let me answer some questions you posed to a4anurag sir.

since your amp's crossover is at FLAT, it will passthrough everything, now your head unit settings only control everything.

Time alignment really helps. I have tried it and use it when I'm alone in the car.

you can fix your bright tweeters by reducing their volume in the Equaliser too, it's much faster to alter and reverse in most head units. Where have you reduced the gain of the tweeters? on the passive crossover unit?

The cause for the muddy sound can either be a bad signal from source, a bad interface like bluetooth or distortion because of the gain on the amp being too high. hope I could help. Sorry to jump in :P



Budget of 12,000.

I have a bad 4 channel that I'm using. Occasionally there is disturbance in the music. But I think I will use it for the sub and use the new 4 channel for the 4 speakers of the car.

maybe next month Will spend the same amount on speakers for the rear or damping the rear doors.

The sub has really opened up, now that it's getting more power after I remover the rear speakers from the amp.

Im not able to choose an amp, there are so many options and I'm not understanding what's better or worse.

Hey Vixit!

Not at all! thank you for the reply.

So I tried different time alignment values and even tried to measure the distance, etc. But I am not getting the right fit.

Earlier I was trying to fix the sound via equaliser but then decided not to. I have equaliser settings as flat as well and tweeters are lowered by 8 DB (maximum allowed) from the HU's time alignment settings.

As per the source, I use Amazon Music HD via USB from CarPlay. So, that's not an issue. Was also using Tidal before this.

Gain was an issue earlier as there was clipping but got that issue sorted. Now the set up runs for hours without going in protect mode.

Wits end.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by #ish

So I tried. Sharing pictures of my amp settings. I moved the bar to flat so I guess that does it, right? Now whatever settings I choose from the HU is what is chosen?

Yes, flat on the amplifier is equal to 'all-pass'. The amplifier will not apply any crossovers if set on 'FLAT'.

Can you share the image similar for the other two channels i.e. Ch 3 & 4? I can see settings only for Channels 1 and 2.

Originally Posted by #ish

So now, on the HU, HPF is at 120 and LPF at 100. Although my ears don't see much of a difference when I change these settings. I tried 100, 80. 80, 80. 100, 100, etc.

Set the low pass for subwoofer at 80Hz @ 24dB LR and HPF for components at 100 Hz @ 24dB LR.

Originally Posted by #ish

Also, you think time alignment can help? I tried to measure and all use the time delay settings etc. Seems like a placebo although maybe I can feel slight differences.

It should help. Try the tape measure method and enter those values in the HU.

Originally Posted by #ish

Can amp be the culprit?

Could be. Suggest you check with a Sony or Pioneer one that has similar output.

EDIT: Sometimes the RCA too can be at fault. Try a different one if possible.

Originally Posted by #ish

since the tweeters were bright, I reduced their gains by 8 DB (maximum allowed by my HU). Now they sound pretty acceptable.

+

Originally Posted by viXit

Where have you reduced the gain of the tweeters? on the passive crossover unit?

Doesn't the passive crossover that you have mounted, have tweeter attenuation switches? Generally it is +2; 0; -2 dB.

Can you check that and see what position it is kept on?

[navin]

Originally Posted by #ish

tweeters are lowered by 8 DB (maximum allowed) from the HU's time alignment settings.

Some crossovers also have the ability to lower tweeter gain. Please check if the crossovers of your speaker have this option.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by navin

Some crossovers also have the ability to lower tweeter gain. Please check if the crossovers of your speaker have this option.

I think with passive setup's, HPF for the tweeter component would be set by the manufacturer in that passive crossover unit itself, am I right? In such cases what can be done?

[navin]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

I think with passive setup's, HPF for the tweeter component would be set by the manufacturer in that passive crossover unit itself, am I right? In such cases what can be done?

Often times the manufacturer provides a +3db, -3db or -6db control for the tweeter. It may be provided as an additional terminal as shown at 5:00 in the video below

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9ab1ARrEiA

Or as a switch, as shown in the images below.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by navin

Often times the manufacturer provides a +3db, -3db or -6db control for the tweeter.

Yes, I had posted the same (quoting that part below) asking him to check at what position the attenuation switch is at.

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Doesn't the passive crossover that you have mounted, have tweeter attenuation switches? Generally it is +2; 0; -2 dB.

Can you check that and see what position it is kept on?

[sidharth_supra]

Hi All,

I recently purchased a Toyota Urban Cruiser Premium Mt. However the sound quality of the system leads lot to be desired. The sheer vibrations of the speaker makes me lower the volume. I have recently got the damping done for all 4 doors, which has helped a tiny little bit. But i am planning to overhaul the music quality of my Vehicle.

After numerous research have purchased few items for the same.

1. Jl Audio C2-650 Components speakers (both for front and back )- Rs 17,500 each pair
2. Sony Xm-GS4 amplifier to power the speakers - Rs 9000( Flipkart)


I have few doubts, which i hope that esteemed members will clear.
Is the Jl Audio C2-650 a good pair of components. I haven't found many samples on youtube to hear the same. My requirements is Clarity and Mid bass. To power the same I found a good deal on Flipkart for the Sony xm-gs4 amplifier. Is it a good enough amplifier to take load of the components?

Also looking for a good quality wiring kit and what will be the ideal Gauge wiring for the same. Also have shortlisted the Rockford Fosgate Rf HLC4 line converter. How is the response for the same. Also Dsp is necessary at this stage or should i get it later. Rockford Fosgate DSR1 as a DSP.

So many questions to ask ?? Please guide