Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q!

neeln8 · 18th November 2019, 10:16

Hello makatak,

Please get sound damping done on all four doors. Japanese cars have a relatively light build, damping ensures vibration free audio. Speaking from experience here, my car is a Honda.

May I suggest doing the upgrade in stages, get door damping and upgrade just the speakers to better quality ones. This will mean a stealth install as no changes are visible outside.Once the speakers burn in and you still think the sound is not to your taste, you could go for an amplifier with good quality wiring and fuses.

Manufacturers can void your electrical warranty once the audio upgrade is obvious.

This is just my 2 cents, I am no audio expert.

Good luck with your audio upgrade!

Visaster · 22nd November 2019, 14:22

Hi folks,

After 4 years of adjusting to OEM audio, finally took the plunge to unscrew factory fit and add some punch to my music

Retained the factory head unit

Samsung Tab 7 for everything it can do

Polk Audio DB6501 6.5-inch 2 Way Component System (Silver)

Polk Audio DB651 6.5"/6.75" 2-Way Marine Certified db Series Car Speakers with Liquid Cooled Silk Tweeters

Pioneer GM-A6704 4-Channel Bridgeable Amplifier with Bass Boost,Black/red

Pioneer 10 inch TS-W254C Subwoofer

The sound quality has phenomenally changed, but for the jarring bass. The sub I am presently using is the one which was in my santro, it is built inside a box.
I got this fixed in one of the popular car audio place in bangalore, oddly the sub was fixed inside a box, you read that right, inside a box.
The sub is mounted in the middle partition of an enclosed box which has a small hole on the magnet side and bigger opening for sound to come out from the top of the box on the speaker side.
I have lived with this heavy piece of carpentry for more than 2 decades and poor bass.

What is the best way to resolve this BASS issue in my car, not to forget the vibration in the boot. Please suggest a working idea.

navin · 22nd November 2019, 16:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by Visaster

Pioneer 10 inch TS-W254C Subwoofer

What is the best way to resolve this BASS issue in my car, not to forget the vibration in the boot. Please suggest a working idea.

The TS-254C is a closed box (aka sealed box) subwoofer and cannot be used in a 6th order bandpass box. At best I would limit it's use to a 4th order bandpass but ideally, a 24-28 liter sealed box will give you tighter, better-defined bass at the cost of some bass volume.

Do this. Stuff some old cotton socks into both the ports/holes and see if the bass improves. if it does you know your box design is the problem.

Visaster · 23rd November 2019, 13:09

The car is CIAZ ZDI

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attac...222_110510.jpg

Thanks for the reply, I knew the problem was the box. After reading your post, I went back to reading about the speaker specs and its box requirement, which states "Low-Q Design for use in Small Sealed Box (0.8 cubic foot recommended)"
I read about the wire splicing part, but I saw no other option, please suggest how this is done.

So Clearly I got fooled back in the time of no tbhp to clarify this, until now when I put this back to use. Anyway I got a weekend project to work on now.

This is the picture of the all walled box with just 2 openings, how not to design a sub woofer box!

Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q!-picture1.png

And the new design plan, hope I am on the right track.

Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q!-picture2.png

Is there any option to route only the bass to the sub woofer, as the oem head unit only has 4 speaker out?

Visaster · 23rd November 2019, 20:23

I can’t believe it’s my subwoofer. It sounds amazing now. Punch right on! Can’t believe I lived without this jugaad for so many years, of ignorant jaar. @navin

The hole was on top, not on the bottom, as my diagram.

navin · 25th November 2019, 12:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by Visaster

I can’t believe it’s my subwoofer. It sounds amazing now.

Welcome. Glad to be of help. A little experimentation goes a long way.

akhil994 · 29th November 2019, 12:26

Hi experts.

I just picked up a used Civic and got the complete ICE overhauled, however have faced some issues which I am unable to figure out.

I got the front speakers changed to Focal Auditor+ series, with a 4 channel amplifier. The first issue that I encountered was that the car was picking up the noise when accelerating, which was fixed after fitting the noise filter.

The next day I got the rear speakers changed to JBL Stadium GTO 620 coaxials, since then it has all gone to the cleaners. The issue with the amp picking up the acceleration noise came back again, however this time, it started picking it up from idle and random sounds, like pop and crackles from the system.

I got that checked, the amp was set to HPF hence why there was those weird noise instead of the sound being played. After fixing that , the guy again removed the noise filter, lowered the gain from the amp and returned the car (to my sister, since I wasn't available at that time).

Post all this, the initial sound while accelerating, again came back, but the speakers were playing music.

However last night, when I connected to play music, all I could hear was sound like little firecrackers, which continued for a while even after turning the music off.

I have a video of the issue I faced last night, can share over whatsapp or here itself if it helps?

I am at my wits end and having spent so much on this setup, have not enjoyed the music one bit!

Any idea what the issue might be ? is it related to earthing? or the amp being faulty? or some other diagnosis that needs to be done?

Urgent help required!

a4anurag · 29th November 2019, 12:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by akhil994

Any idea what the issue might be ? is it related to earthing? or the amp being faulty? or some other diagnosis that needs to be done?

First and foremost point to check is the earthing. Also where is the amplifier mounted and how the earthing wire is connected to the cars chassis?!

akhil994 · 29th November 2019, 12:32

Quote:

Originally Posted by a4anurag

First and foremost point to check is the earthing. Also where is the amplifier mounted and how the earthing wire is connected to the cars chassis?!

The amplifier is mounter under the front passenger seat but it is a very tight fit. I will have to check about the earthing. I have asked the guy I got the setup done from, to check the complete wiring maybe tomorrow or Sunday.

The issue encountered last night did actually scare me, sounded like something might or has conked off. How do I upload the video? Since it says invalid format when I try to upload it directly from my phone

a4anurag · 29th November 2019, 12:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by akhil994

The amplifier is mounter under the front passenger seat but it is a very tight fit. I will have to check about the earthing. I have asked the guy I got the setup done from, to check the complete wiring maybe tomorrow or Sunday.

Check the following:

Wiring from the battery till the amplifier.
Wiring from amplifier to chassis ground.
Remote wire connection path.
Gain settings on the amplifier and the process used to set it.
If any power wire is running parallel with speaker cables anywhere. If yes separate them.

EDIT: Is the amplifier mounted on the car's metal surface or over any MDF board?

Quote:

Originally Posted by akhil994

The issue encountered last night did actually scare me, sounded like something might or has conked off

If possible avoid using the stereo till the issue is sorted as the 'pops' & 'bangs' will ruin the speakers and damage then behind repair.

PS: Which amplifier is this that you have bought?

akhil994 · 29th November 2019, 12:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Check the following:

Wiring from the battery till the amplifier.
Wiring from amplifier to chassis ground.
Remote wire connection path.
Gain settings on the amplifier and the process used to set it.
If any power wire is running parallel with speaker cables anywhere. If yes separate them.

If possible avoid using the stereo till the issue is sorted as the 'pops' & 'bangs' will ruin the speakers and damage then behind repair.

Yes I am not using the system as of now. The only issue being, in Sony XAV-AX3000, there is no way to permanently switch off the system

Here is the link of the video of last night :

https://youtu.be/OuPViTDNWSQ

a4anurag · 29th November 2019, 12:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by akhil994

Yes I am not using the system as of now. The only issue being, in Sony XAV-AX3000, there is no way to permanently switch off the system

Pull off the fuse for the infotainment system.

I hope the OEM wiring harness was not tampered with during fitment of this Sony HU. Because issues can arise from there too.

akhil994 · 29th November 2019, 12:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Pull off the fuse for the infotainment system.

I hope the OEM wiring harness was not tampered with during fitment of this Sony HU. Because issues can arise from there too.

There was splicing done for the wiring, since the coupler required for installation was not available anywhere in Gurgaon.

I really did not want to splice the wires, but no one had the required coupler for installation of the HU

a4anurag · 29th November 2019, 12:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by akhil994

I really did not want to splice the wires, but no one had the required coupler for installation of the HU

Oh.

Hope the spliced wires were soldered and not merely taped using electrical insulation tape. Also check if wires are isolated from each other and no bare strands are coming in contact with each other.

Which amplifier is being used?

akhil994 · 29th November 2019, 13:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Oh.

Hope the spliced wires were soldered and not merely taped using electrical insulation tape. Also check if wires are isolated from each other and no bare strands are coming in contact with each other.

Which amplifier is being used?

The wires are taped and not soldered ! 😔

Will get it all checked either tomorrow or day after!

Amplifier is I think from Pricor, the guy sold me the amp telling me it is a good product. Cost me about ₹6500. One year warranty is also provided. In hindsight, maybe should have gone for a better amp. Might still change the amp, if the issue identified is with the amplifier

18th November 2019, 10:16	#13966
neeln8 Newbie Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: KL07 Posts: 10 Thanked: 42 Times	Hello makatak, Please get sound damping done on all four doors. Japanese cars have a relatively light build, damping ensures vibration free audio. Speaking from experience here, my car is a Honda. May I suggest doing the upgrade in stages, get door damping and upgrade just the speakers to better quality ones. This will mean a stealth install as no changes are visible outside.Once the speakers burn in and you still think the sound is not to your taste, you could go for an amplifier with good quality wiring and fuses. Manufacturers can void your electrical warranty once the audio upgrade is obvious. This is just my 2 cents, I am no audio expert. Good luck with your audio upgrade! Last edited by neeln8 : 18th November 2019 at 10:45.
	(1) Thanks

22nd November 2019, 14:22	#13967
Visaster BHPian Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Chennai Posts: 605 Thanked: 261 Times	Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q! Hi folks, After 4 years of adjusting to OEM audio, finally took the plunge to unscrew factory fit and add some punch to my music Retained the factory head unit Samsung Tab 7 for everything it can do Polk Audio DB6501 6.5-inch 2 Way Component System (Silver) Polk Audio DB651 6.5"/6.75" 2-Way Marine Certified db Series Car Speakers with Liquid Cooled Silk Tweeters Pioneer GM-A6704 4-Channel Bridgeable Amplifier with Bass Boost,Black/red Pioneer 10 inch TS-W254C Subwoofer The sound quality has phenomenally changed, but for the jarring bass. The sub I am presently using is the one which was in my santro, it is built inside a box. I got this fixed in one of the popular car audio place in bangalore, oddly the sub was fixed inside a box, you read that right, inside a box. The sub is mounted in the middle partition of an enclosed box which has a small hole on the magnet side and bigger opening for sound to come out from the top of the box on the speaker side. I have lived with this heavy piece of carpentry for more than 2 decades and poor bass. What is the best way to resolve this BASS issue in my car, not to forget the vibration in the boot. Please suggest a working idea.
	(1) Thanks

23rd November 2019, 13:09	#13969
Visaster BHPian Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Chennai Posts: 605 Thanked: 261 Times	Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q! The car is CIAZ ZDI https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attac...222_110510.jpg Thanks for the reply, I knew the problem was the box. After reading your post, I went back to reading about the speaker specs and its box requirement, which states "Low-Q Design for use in Small Sealed Box (0.8 cubic foot recommended)" I read about the wire splicing part, but I saw no other option, please suggest how this is done. So Clearly I got fooled back in the time of no tbhp to clarify this, until now when I put this back to use. Anyway I got a weekend project to work on now. This is the picture of the all walled box with just 2 openings, how not to design a sub woofer box! And the new design plan, hope I am on the right track. Is there any option to route only the bass to the sub woofer, as the oem head unit only has 4 speaker out? Last edited by Visaster : 23rd November 2019 at 13:19.
	() Thanks

23rd November 2019, 20:23	#13970
Visaster BHPian Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Chennai Posts: 605 Thanked: 261 Times	Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q! I can’t believe it’s my subwoofer. It sounds amazing now. Punch right on! Can’t believe I lived without this jugaad for so many years, of ignorant jaar. @navin The hole was on top, not on the bottom, as my diagram. Attached Thumbnails
	(1) Thanks

29th November 2019, 12:26	#13972
akhil994 BHPian Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Toronto Posts: 299 Thanked: 745 Times	Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q! Hi experts. I just picked up a used Civic and got the complete ICE overhauled, however have faced some issues which I am unable to figure out. I got the front speakers changed to Focal Auditor+ series, with a 4 channel amplifier. The first issue that I encountered was that the car was picking up the noise when accelerating, which was fixed after fitting the noise filter. The next day I got the rear speakers changed to JBL Stadium GTO 620 coaxials, since then it has all gone to the cleaners. The issue with the amp picking up the acceleration noise came back again, however this time, it started picking it up from idle and random sounds, like pop and crackles from the system. I got that checked, the amp was set to HPF hence why there was those weird noise instead of the sound being played. After fixing that , the guy again removed the noise filter, lowered the gain from the amp and returned the car (to my sister, since I wasn't available at that time). Post all this, the initial sound while accelerating, again came back, but the speakers were playing music. However last night, when I connected to play music, all I could hear was sound like little firecrackers, which continued for a while even after turning the music off. I have a video of the issue I faced last night, can share over whatsapp or here itself if it helps? I am at my wits end and having spent so much on this setup, have not enjoyed the music one bit! Any idea what the issue might be ? is it related to earthing? or the amp being faulty? or some other diagnosis that needs to be done? Urgent help required! Last edited by akhil994 : 29th November 2019 at 12:28.
	() Thanks