[swarnava.m]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Huh, what? Bidirectional? Ah, you mean output (speakers) one direction and input (mic) the other direction? Yes, but it is expressed in a different way normally!

Lol Yes!!

I know it is expressed differently, but just couldn't get the right term for it..

[offroad_maniac]

Dear Gurus,
On 31st Dec, I installed below ICE in my Bolero:
HU: Pioneer DEH-4590BT
Speakers: Sony xplod 3 way ovals (Connected to HU)
Amp: JBL GTX 424 2-Channel (300W, 4Ohms)
Sub: JBL GTX 1150 (12", 1150W)


Now the problem is, This setup used fine on 31st, but since yesterday, only speakers are working. The woofer is not sounding & as checked, there is no power or JBL Logo light lighting on Amp. As per conversation with dealer, he said that the fuse might be blown, so he asked me to show car to him.

Now, before going to him, need to check here what else could be the reason? Is it a known issue with Amps? Should I keep some fuses handy for future or do i need to check / replace my battery?
Need any suggestions from you that can help me troubleshoot with dealer & avoid such issues in future.

Thanks in advance.

[swarnava.m]

Either the fuse, or the power cable from the battery is not giving power to the amp.

Another possibility is that the wire that connects from the subwoofer on/off terminal on the Pio HU to the remote terminal on the amp. That wire might have gone loose or something. You might want to check that. When the HU turns on, it sends a signal to turn the amp on. Unless the amp is getting that signal, it won't come on.

[offroad_maniac]

Originally Posted by swarnava.m

Either the fuse, or the power cable from the battery is not giving power to the amp.

Another possibility is that the wire that connects from the subwoofer on/off terminal on the Pio HU to the remote terminal on the amp. That wire might have gone loose or something. You might want to check that. When the HU turns on, it sends a signal to turn the amp on. Unless the amp is getting that signal, it won't come on.

Thanks for the reply. Will ask them to recheck the wiring.
But, if fuse is blown, then also Amp will show power or not? I mean Amp's power wire is directly connected to +ve of battery. So its hard to check the exact cause, unless those guys had it as a known issue with this Amp model.

[swarnava.m]

Originally Posted by offroad_maniac

Thanks for the reply. Will ask them to recheck the wiring.
But, if fuse is blown, then also Amp will show power or not? I mean Amp's power wire is directly connected to +ve of battery. So its hard to check the exact cause, unless those guys had it as a known issue with this Amp model.

No it will not. Irrespective of whether the Amp is connected directly to the +ve of the battery, it will not receive power if the fuse has blown. The fuse is fundamentally a piece of wire that serves as a part of the entire circuit. Hence if the fuse is blown, the circuit is open and the amp will not get power.



In the above picture, consider the disconnected wire (brown) to be your fuse. This essentially makes the circuit open.

In fact, I think you can check the fuse yourself visually. If it is installed under the hood next to the battery (in my case it is), you can just visually check if the wire in it is intact or broken.

As for the amp, I am using the same one. It is a popularly used amp and I am not aware of any such issues with it. Maybe other owners of this amp can throw some light on this.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by offroad_maniac

... if fuse is blown, then also Amp will show power or not? I mean Amp's power wire is directly connected to +ve of battery. So its hard to check the exact cause, unless those guys had it as a known issue with this Amp model.

No, it will NOT show (and that is what you are seeing - no blue LED). The Fuse is *meant* to isolate the amp's internals on sustained overload / faults. It must be a simple fuse failure. Don't cynically search for 'known issues' - pointless. If it had been that rampant, JBL would have pulled the model.

You can check it yourself by unscrewing the fuse in the amp (see the manual) and seeing if the fuse wire is cut.

[Angad_kalra]

I have a OHC type 2 and have recently changed my rear and front speakers.
Rear- Infinity PR9603 3-Way 6" X 9" Oval Speaker
Front - Blaupunkt VX 542 2-Way Coaxial - 130mm - 240 W (5.25 inches)
They are powered by a 4 channel Sony amplifier.

I am not too happy with the front speakers and the installer told me that since the OHC has very little space only the Blaupunkt 5.25 inches will be a perfect fit and for all other components we would have to cut some parts of the door panel.

I want replace the front speakers with components and want your advise as to which components will fit in the space allotted in the OHC. Request you to mention approximate prices as well.

Looking forward for your advices.

[offroad_maniac]

Originally Posted by swarnava.m

No it will not. Irrespective of whether the Amp is connected directly to the +ve of the battery, it will not receive power if the fuse has blown. ......

..... As for the amp, I am using the same one. It is a popularly used amp and I am not aware of any such issues with it. Maybe other owners of this amp can throw some light on this.

Originally Posted by DerAlte

No, it will NOT show (and that is what you are seeing - no blue LED). The Fuse is *meant* to isolate the amp's internals on sustained overload / faults. It must be a simple fuse failure. Don't cynically search for 'known issues' - pointless. If it had been that rampant, JBL would have pulled the model.

You can check it yourself by unscrewing the fuse in the amp (see the manual) and seeing if the fuse wire is cut.

Thank you both for the assurance.
Will check with the installer this weekend. Hope it gets fixed & does not repeat. Actually, I was more worried because this happened in just one day.

One more query: Is it ok if you crank the engine while your player is ON, I mean when songs are playing?
My friend advised against it, but my player starts immediatly once I turn the key to acc. Guess stopping the engine wont cause any issue, but cranking it requires more power from battery.

[swarnava.m]

Well cranking the engine while your player is ON usually wouldn't cause any issues, but I remember reading somewhere that while cranking the engine, ALL other accessories that need power should be off. This includes AC, headlights, ICE, etc. Not sure whether it can cause a fuse to blow off, but I would agree that it is a remote possibility.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by Angad_kalra

... OHC has very little space only the Blaupunkt 5.25 inches will be a perfect fit and for all other components we would have to cut some parts of the door panel. ...

Well, you can buy 5.25" components of any make / brand, not just Blaupunkt. Blaupunkt is not bad at all, and if this guy has stocks, look for their VPc 130. Other makes are Infinity, JBL, Bull, Auditor, Morel, JL ... Depending on make and series, a pair of 5.25" components would cost 5-12K (street price, not MRP).

Originally Posted by offroad_maniac

... my player starts immediatly once I turn the key to acc. ...

Originally Posted by swarnava.m

... ALL other accessories that need power should be off. This includes AC, headlights, ICE, etc. Not sure whether it can cause a fuse to blow off, but I would agree that it is a remote possibility.

Happens in every car. ACC goes active when one turns the key from ON to crank. At this time, if there is a chassis electronics module, it will switch off the power going to all accessories, headlamps, etc. as long as the key is in the crank position. If your system doesn't have the ACC wired (happens in some cars), the car will still crank. All that would happen is when the line voltage goes down due to starter motor drawing heavy current, the music will play at a lower volume. The fuse will not blow.

@swarnava.m, the "should be off" is a design stipulation implemented practically in the car through a controller & relay. And accessories draw less current, not more, when voltage reduces during cranking - the fuse doesn't blow. The stipulation is to prevent accessories from drawing current while cranking, so that the starter is able to use the maximum current.

[offroad_maniac]

Dear Swarnava.m & DerAlte,
Thanks once again for replies.

Just to update, got the system checked once again from installer. The fuse was not blown. The actual reason was a cut wire. One of the small/ thin wire connected between amp & HU was somehow caught between wiper mechanism in the dashboard & it was broken/ cut while wiper was operated. Now they rectified it but broken one of the flap of a/c vents of central console while doing so.
Anyways lets hope system keeps playing fine for years.

[swarnava.m]

Originally Posted by offroad_maniac

Dear Swarnava.m & DerAlte,
Thanks once again for replies.

Just to update, got the system checked once again from installer. The fuse was not blown. The actual reason was a cut wire. One of the small/ thin wire connected between amp & HU was somehow caught between wiper mechanism in the dashboard & it was broken/ cut while wiper was operated. Now they rectified it but broken one of the flap of a/c vents of central console while doing so.
Anyways lets hope system keeps playing fine for years.

That would be the remote wire. Anyways, good that it has been rectified.

[blackfire_9]

Hey navin,

Yeah, the DD amplifier definitely feels well-built, although the quality of sound signal can't really be ascertained since it is sub-bass. But till now, my observations are that the subs feel well fed.

While at this topic of audio equipment, I just wanted to seek some information on the primary differences between 2-way & 3-way component systems. I understand that a 3-way system essentially has a dedicated mid-range driver to tackle frequencies in the range of 350-3400Hz & that would lead to better clarity, but is the difference really that obvious?
Also, what is the ideal positioning of the various drivers in a 3-way setup? Most installations I have seen or heard of, rely on fiberglass A-pillar speaker pods. Is that the only option or is there any other way to install a 3-way system? Also, would you be having any idea on the approximate costs of getting speaker pods built?

Lastly, how would you rate the Infinity Kappa 4 amplifier in terms of SQ? If available for around 20K, do you think its worth it or are there better options out there today?

Drive safe.

Originally Posted by navin

Sadly I have not heard the Digital Designs amp you mention. If it felt good to you it is good enough.

Yes JVC does leave a bit out when it comes to music. If your ears have evolved to this level do try out an Alpine. I find they do something pretty well. I cant put my finger on it but what they reproduce sounds closest to good music. Clarion is also supposed to be musical (at least some older Clarions were) but their service is iffy.

Your poewr and speaker cables seem fine. You should ok with the altrnator and battery too. Remember music eergy varies alot and your battery will act like a big capacitor (giving an energy boost for a few 100 miliseconds). The first sign you will have of the battery-alternator system not being able to keep up is a diming of lights every time the bass hits.

[harshaguduru]

hi
i am not a big fan of ICE
but recently was with my brother in law to get an amp and sub fitted.
the details
car: Manza
hu: unchanged
Front: unchanged
rear: pioneer speakers 550watt 6x9 not sure of model number.

amp : JBL gtx646 800w
sub: jbl bass tube 12" gt 1250
wiring : not scosche but not the cheapest either cost him about 1500.
installer is reliable and was recommended by friends

problem:
no hassles with sound or with the bass. he wanted spl so got the bass tube instead of the tighter sounding box.
however whenever the doors are opened there is a minuscule kik-kik-kik sound for about 2 seconds.
the installer says it is common in all cars and that its not problem. they checked the grounding and said everything is fine.

i tried searching for it in the forum but found no hits.
ANY IDEAS?

PS
please don't criticize for choice of equipment.

PPS they also installed something called hi-lo converter that he said was a must and amp is connected to the sub and rears. he plans to change the fronts later as the factory fitted ones are bad and at that time the amp with go to front and sub and a new rears will come from the hu which will also be changed 6-8 months down the line to a pioneer unit.

[yogeshnaik]

Originally Posted by swarnava.m

Well cranking the engine while your player is ON usually wouldn't cause any issues, but I remember reading somewhere that while cranking the engine, ALL other accessories that need power should be off. This includes AC, headlights, ICE, etc. Not sure whether it can cause a fuse to blow off, but I would agree that it is a remote possibility.

You need not switch OFF the AC, Audio Head Unit, but need to switch OFF the headlights. Connections to AC, Audio Head Unit are designed in such a way that the go into LVM (Low Voltage Mode) state while cranking. OEMs/Aftermarket manufacturers run several test cases on AHUs with a cranking parameter.

Originally Posted by swarnava.m

Your post is slightly unclear. Let me get this straight. There is a cable that has 3.5 mm male connectors on both sides, looks like this:

Attachment 1033727

Am I right?

If yes, then where does this connect to in your player? Or, where is this supposed to be connected?

In the picture, it is a concealed stereo cable with 3.5mm jack pins. On your Audio Head Unit (AHU), there should a 3.5mm jack, looking similar to your walkman or one that you see on a phone jack. Some AHU's come with front and rear AUX inputs as well. You may use this cable to connect your Cell Phone's or MP3 Player's audio out connection and put your AHU on AUX1/AUX2 source mode.

There is one more fitter at Madgaon before entering the Garden (should be near AXIS Bank ATM) while coming from Fatorda. Which is the Head Unit you have finally decided and where are you fitting it in Madgaon?