[carboy]

I have a Sharp Microwave, bought from the US, 13 years ago. I run it through a step down transformer.

For the last month or so, very occasionally - I mean like 1 in 25 times, it doesn't heat. I mean, the light comes on, the rotating bottom rotates, the timer works but the stuff doesn't get heated.

This happened again yesterday night. I tried 2-3 times, different settings but it didn't heat at all. Then switched it off - today morning, it's heating just fine.

Any idea what can be wrong? Is it worth trying to get it repaired - I am really wondering because I am pretty sure the problem will not get reproduced when the repair guy looks at it & there is no way to verify if it got repaired at all. So any advice on what I should do?

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by carboy

I have a Sharp Microwave, bought from the US, 13 years ago. I run it through a step down transformer.

.......
So any advice on what I should do?

Check the connections to the magnetron if you can. It will either be a loose connection or in worst case magnetron on its last legs. In case of latter, there is nothing that you can do.

[carboy]

Originally Posted by Aroy

Check the connections to the magnetron if you can

If I take it to an electrician, will he able to check whether there is any loose connection? Is the magnetron easily accessible?

[sinhead]

Please recommend a silent ceiling fan and a silent pedestal fan. Can compromise on speed and air throw distance. But the noise should be low.

[Prowler]

Originally Posted by carboy

I have a Sharp Microwave, bought from the US, 13 years ago. I run it through a step down transformer.

For the last month or so, very occasionally - I mean like 1 in 25 times, it doesn't heat. I mean, the light comes on, the rotating bottom rotates, the timer works but the stuff doesn't get heated.

So any advice on what I should do?

There is no such thing as a loose connection with Magnetron. It works under high voltage and high current and any poor connection will result in arcing which results in immediate death of the magnetron. In your case, it is likely to be an aging magnetron or its power circuit. It can even be a thermal fuse in series with its power supply.

You would be well advised to take it to a qualified technician instead of an electrician. I have seen hard wired safety switches in the door resulting in the microwave working even when the door is open - all the results of poor quality service.

Don't take chances with a Microwave. It is not the danger of a burnt hand alone. It can even affect the eye sight if people peer inside the unit whose safety switches have been shorted out.

[deep_bang]

Originally Posted by carboy

Any idea what can be wrong? Is it worth trying to get it repaired - I am really wondering because I am pretty sure the problem will not get reproduced when the repair guy looks at it & there is no way to verify if it got repaired at all. So any advice on what I should do?

My Electrolux microwave had a similar issue. Sometimes it would not heat at all, and during this time, the sound would be slightly different. Initally it used to happen once a while but later it just stopped fully. I tried to get it repaired by a technician, but he said the magnetron has to be changed. Whether he was right or wrong needs to be taken with a pinch of salt, but since it was more than 10 years old, I was happy to let go and get a new one.

I generally support repair rather than buy as it is better for the environment as well as our pockets, but if an appliance is over a decade old, I think it's better to replace than repair.

[condor]

Originally Posted by carboy

I have a Sharp Microwave, bought from the US, 13 years ago. I run it through a step down transformer.

13 years of use and for the symptom, I would also say it's the magnetron. Get it checked by a qualified technician.

If the magentron can be replaced, then your unit will run for a few more years. Cost could be about 2k to replace the part. However, the one doubt I have is -what's the rating of the mangetron ( 110v ? ) and if the ones available in Indian market are 110v compatible. ( 100-240v ).

[carboy]

Originally Posted by condor

However, the one doubt I have is -what's the rating of the mangetron ( 110v ? ) and if the ones available in Indian market are 110v compatible. ( 100-240v ).

I run the microwave through a step down transformer.

[HydroFuel]

I want to change my Semiautomatic Videocon washing machine which is giving problems.
Was checking Auto and Frontloading especially from Panasonic.
However we run mostly on Loft tank supply in our flat where pressure is low. It was suggested by seller to use booster pump if needed. Is it possible or advisable to use it? Is anybody using on lofttank water supply? What is the experience?

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by HydroFuel

I want to change my Semiautomatic Videocon washing machine which is giving problems.
Was checking Auto and Frontloading especially from Panasonic.
However we run mostly on Loft tank supply in our flat where pressure is low. It was suggested by seller to use booster pump if needed. Is it possible or advisable to use it? Is anybody using on lofttank water supply? What is the experience?

How is the loft tank filled? If it is from mains, then you have no recourse. On the other hand if it is from a roof mounted tank, then you can run the plumbing from it to the washing machine.

Regarding a boosted pump, there are some fancy solutions where an online booster pump maintains a constant pressure in the plumbing line. You can investigate the financial viability of such a solution.

https://www.amazon.in/s/?ie=UTF8&key...l_73u1b9zo2w_b

Of these this one seems to be inline with your requirement
https://www.amazon.in/STARQ-Certifie...e+booster+pump

[aadya]

Originally Posted by carboy

I have a Sharp Microwave, bought from the US, 13 years ago. I run it through a step down transformer.

For the last month or so, very occasionally - I mean like 1 in 25 times, it doesn't heat. I mean, the light comes on, the rotating bottom rotates, the timer works but the stuff doesn't get heated.

Its magnetron. A local microwave mechanic can replace it. But I would advice against doing anything like that, even if there is a sentimental attachment to it. Risks involved are too many with the appliance being imported with different power rating. Cost of repair and risk taken is not worthwhile. Go ahead and purchase a new one.

[HydroFuel]

Originally Posted by Aroy

How is the loft tank filled? If it is from mains, then you have no recourse. On the other hand if it is from a roof mounted tank, then you can run the plumbing from it to the washing machine.

Thanks Aroy for quick reply.
We stay on the 2nd floor of 3 floor building in a 40 member co-operative housing society. Loft tank is filled when there is water coming from roof of the building during 8am to 9am. Washing maching is used sometime between 10 am to 12 pm from 600 litre tank installed on bathroom as is done typically in cities. So pressure is less than half when it comes from buildings main 15000 litre roof tank. So we have to use machine with water from our loft tank.
Currently while running spinner/dryer of our semi-automatic washing machine we avoid using other tap as for as possible for those 5 minutes. But can not do that for 1 hour or so. We may change the plumbing pipes in our flat as they are nearly 20 year old.
I am also evaluating the booster pump option. May go for fully automatic option.
For front loading machine the dealer is giving better deal for Bosch than Siemens saying Bosch is also ulmost same as Siemens. Siemens is costlier than Bosche. IFB is another cheapest of the three. IFB has 8k rpm while other two has 10-12k rpm motor. Also the tub size is deeper than IFB in both Siemens and Bosche. What is better option here?

For fully auto I shall prefer Panasonic.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by HydroFuel

Thanks Aroy for quick reply.
We stay on the 2nd floor of 3 floor building in a 40 member co-operative housing society. Loft tank is filled when there is water coming from roof of the building during 8am to 9am. Washing maching is used sometime between 10 am to 12 pm from 600 litre tank installed on bathroom as is done typically in cities. So pressure is less than half when it comes from buildings main 15000 litre roof tank. So we have to use machine with water from our loft tank. ....
. We may change the plumbing pipes in our flat as they are nearly 20 year old.
I am also evaluating the booster pump option. May go for fully automatic option.
For front loading machine the dealer is giving better deal for Bosch than Siemens saying Bosch is also ulmost same as Siemens. Siemens is costlier than Bosche. IFB is another cheapest of the three. IFB has 8k rpm while other two has 10-12k rpm motor. Also the tub size is deeper than IFB in both Siemens and Bosche. What is better option here?

For fully auto I shall prefer Panasonic.

1. If you can, install a 500L tank on the terrace and connect it to your plumbing. That will increase the pressure to the washing machine.

2. In case that is not possible, install the water booster pump. That will boost the pressure enough to ensure that any front loading WM works.

3. Regarding washing machines
. IFB, Siemens and Bosch have the same basic design. We had an IFB for quite some time, and found it lacking in a lot of areas.
. In contrast the latest LG machines come with direct drive - better control, and 10Y warranty on the motor. On the whole; especially in Delhi; LG service quality is much better than that of IFB.
. One good thing about LG is that the drum size is smaller than that of IFB/Bosch. That means you can never overload the machine - and that is the reson for most problems in a washing machine.

In our LG, which has load sensing, filling more than 3/4 of the drum increases the cycle time from 1H,15m to 2H, 30m. With less clothes less water is used, so that we have found that putting clothes twice actually decreases the total washing time and water consumption.

[drsingh]

I'm trying to determine the kWh units of electricity consumed by these two refrigerators.

Basic physics as I remember it says watts=volts*amps

But here a 120 watt input rated refrigerator seems to draw 1 ampere on 220 volts !

The other refrigerator just mentions 1.1 amperes and 220 volts.

Kindly help me with the calculations.
And the math and physics guys .. be kind. I'm just okay at these subjects.

P.S. Is it safe to assume that these refrigerators run their compressors on analog timers ? And that they run their compressors about 25 % of their running time?

[ksameer1234]

Originally Posted by drsingh

But here a 120 watt input rated refrigerator seems to draw 1 ampere on 220 volts !

The other refrigerator just mentions 1.1 amperes and 220 volts.

Kindly help me with the calculations.
And the math and physics guys .. be kind. I'm just okay at these subjects.

P.S. Is it safe to assume that these refrigerators run their compressors on analog timers ? And that they run their compressors about 25 % of their running time?

The rated input would be actual power drawn by compressor when operating at full load. Now since the compressor is driven by an induction motor, the current drawn would contribute some actual power and some apparent power. Actual power is what does work while apparent power is just a ghost due to type of motor (more details would be purely technical). The ratio of actual to total (actual+apparent) power is called power factor. In this case, the power factor comes around 0.5, unless I have missed something. Or may be the current mentioned is the starting current while current drawn during operation would be less than that.