[HydroFuel]

W.r.t. post 6300. On booking the panel problem via email yesterday, the technician from Samsung visited and checked the panel. He said it needs to be replaced. The cost shall be informed by office/call centre. However he did not tinker or clean the panel for dust etc even after insistance. I was not at home. It is 3 years old and out of warranty. Can panel be repaired or replaced locally as some buttons are working? Tehnician informed the cost can be 4-5k.

[Prowler]

Originally Posted by BenjiRoss

My 10 year old IFB microwave is malfunctioning. The turntable does not rotate. I can hear things whir and beep, but it does not turn. I still managed to heat a cup of tea yesterday.
1. Is it safe to use?
2. Should I try to repair or just get a new one?

The turntable uses Shaded-pole motor which can get upset if its effort is thwarted. When it conks out, it could blow the main fuse in the Microwave oven. The turntable motor is easily available as most Microwave ovens use similar motors within a given capacity range.
Other things are working normal as you could heat a cup of tea. So get it repaired.

[BenjiRoss]

Thanks for your inputs on the microwave issue.
I went ahead and purchased a new one. I had limited choice at the stores in visited and ended up buying the large 38 litre IFB for Rs. 15000. This is not a well researched buy and I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
I also plan to repair the old microwave today if possible and give it off to someone rather than just dump it. (thanks @prowler)

[nik0502]

Hi Guys,

I need your help. I am looking for a small refrigerator for my bedroom. I have a bigger one for home but this one is for bedroom only so that you don't have to walk upto the bigger fridge when you want to have water. Since the usage is very restricted I am looking for something which doesn't cost a bomb. Found Sensui and Kenstar in local store @ 5K. The only drawback is they don't have a lamp inside. I am looking for one which has a lamp inside. Don't know how much cost it would have added to put a lamp inside the fridge. Came across a Cellfrost minibar for 9000 online. Which has a lamp and is spacious enough. The disadvantage is, it's too expensive. And also it doesn't seem to have a chiller compartment. Found the same refrigerator on OLX for 4K. Now i am super confused. Could you guys help me out. Will be buying one tomorrow.

[diyguy]

Need some advice if a full home single phase voltage surge protector is better than a fridge stabilizer? The price is not significantly different and thought the electronics in the full home will be better than a stabilizer. I intend only hooking it up to my fridge anyway.

[Prowler]

Originally Posted by diyguy

Need some advice if a full home single phase voltage surge protector is better than a fridge stabilizer? The price is not significantly different and thought the electronics in the full home will be better than a stabilizer. I intend only hooking it up to my fridge anyway.

A full home Surge protector located at the consumer end of the mains input will protect appliances downstream from high voltages and high transients.

But it won't protect your sensitive equipment from going bust when a large inductive component (motors, AC etc) turns off.

Ideally every sensitive equipment must have its own surge suppressor - in addition to a large suitably rated one at the mains input in the house.

[diyguy]

Originally Posted by Prowler

Ideally every sensitive equipment must have its own surge suppressor - in addition to a large suitably rated one at the mains input in the house.

Thanks for the reply Prowler. I was planning to connect this to the fridge direct from the power supply and only have the fridge hooked to it. The pricing of this is almost the same as a 1KVA stabilizer and that was why I was considering this option.

[Holyghost]

Originally Posted by diyguy

Thanks for the reply Prowler. I was planning to connect this to the fridge direct from the power supply and only have the fridge hooked to it. The pricing of this is almost the same as a 1KVA stabilizer and that was why I was considering this option.
Attachment 1631420

Can this protect the devices from surge currents? The description says it is a high/low voltage protector. I think the surge currents last only for a few micro seconds and will this device act fast enough? Never used any of these products, but have been thinking about getting one to protect my AVR.

[diyguy]

Originally Posted by Holyghost

Can this protect the devices from surge currents? The description says it is a high/low voltage protector. I think the surge currents last only for a few micro seconds and will this device act fast enough?

I saw a comment that it's switching time is 30ms. I also realized that it does not voltage stabilize and is a surge protector and a voltage cutoff. So it should ideally be used only at Mains and not the way I was intending. It is good to have a surge protector for your AVR. I have a APC voltage stabilizer-->220-110 Step down-->Power Conditioner-->AVR. However this did not stop my HDMI output from failing on my AVR.
I had two HDMI output on my AVR and one was connected to my projector with a 50ft hdmi cable. Have learnt that this length of cable attracts power surges during thunder storms and that is the likely cause of my hdmi failure.
On surge currents specifically I think a spike buster with a fuse would be ideal. MX used to use fuses and I have had this blow a few times.

[Holyghost]

Originally Posted by diyguy

I had two HDMI output on my AVR and one was connected to my projector with a 50ft hdmi cable. Have learnt that this length of cable attracts power surges during thunder storms and that is the likely cause of my hdmi failure.

HDMI failure is a common occurrence on AVRs. A few batches of Onkyos were notorious for HDMI board failures. Even my previous Yamahas HDMI board failed and the first question the service guy asked was whether I plugged/unplugged hdmi while the device was on or in Standby mode. The HDMI ports on these AVRs are always active even on stand by and we should never connect/disconnect them without powering them off completely. Even a minor static current from body is enough to fry them while they are active. I used to connect my laptop to its HDMI while on standby and that should have been the reason for its failure.

[diyguy]

Originally Posted by Holyghost

I used to connect my laptop to its HDMI while on standby and that should have been the reason for its failure.

i was aware of this and never did this. In fact it was very difficult to get to the hdmi ports as they were difficult to access with the setup I have. Involves just too much shifting and hence am pretty sure this was not the cause in my case. Am yet to get the board replaced and am using it for audio alone for now.

[r_devakumar]

I have replaced my 13 years old Kenstar WM (tumble top with top loading) last month. It served well, but unfortunately, I couldn't get it repaired as parts are not available.

Went for Bosch WAK24268IN and bought through amazon. Delivery done in the second day and installation done next day. Installation is prompt (I got call from the service engineer a day before delivery without me calling Bosch call center).

Installation was good, except the service engineer told, I need to buy one adaptor from him which connects the water pipe (even though I have the same available from previous VM) and also pushy about selling the drum cleaner.

The wash quality is very good, no vibration, super silent. One drawback I found is that there is non pre-was option (even though a section in the detergent holder for putting detergent for pre-wash).

What are the options available to dispose the Kenstar VM? Do the local mechanics takes them for scraps or is any online option available through which it can be disposed (like any company which takes scraps , old house hold articles etc)

[rdst_1]

That's strange. My Bosch does have the Pre-wash option. Check in the manual if any of the other modes has that option built-in.
Even we had replaced our 15yr old Whirlpool machine and since we had bought our Bosch from a local dealer, he took our older machine off our hands and paid us 2k for it.

[Thad E Ginathom]

Originally Posted by rdst_1

That's strange. My Bosch does have the Pre-wash option. Check in the manual if any of the other modes has that option built-in.

Neither does mine, even though it has the usual two detergent compartments in the drawer. This is the first machine I've even seen to lack this rather basic function! I have no idea why they should leave it out.

But... the number of times I have ever used pre-wash on all those other machines was tiny and, except for the principle, I don't really mind.

I don't have children who roll in the mud every day. If I did, I'd manually use a quick 15-minute wash, followed by a full two-hour cotton wash.

This machine is considerably cheaper than the Bosch machine I bought in London more than 15 years ago. Generally, Bosch[ing] machines are a lot more expensive. I guess we are getting a seriously cut-down model at the low end here.

Otherwise... I have no complaints.

[NPV]

Originally Posted by theexperthand

Also, do bargain on the rate for pipe also - I got varying quotes from 100 rs per ft to 50 rs per ft from different outlets.

Anoop - where did you buy the aluminium duct pipe from ? Can you share the contact information ?
*Online prices are around Rs.850 to Rs.1200 for 1 metre of 4" aluminium duct pipe, so even at Rs.100 per ft it will be a third of those prices