[drbabuanand]

inder
the manual is inside the box with the remote and batteries.
i got this from grey market for 38250 and a 5kva vguard stab for 3500.
the installation cost me 3500 which included 13 feet of copper wire and the stand(650 rupees)
this is also from thailand.need any other information,please shoot.
khoj
the vguard people replaced the stab with a newone and its working fine.

[recshenoy]

Hi All,

i got a Voltas vertis split AC 1.5T at an auction but the remote is not availabe. Is there any place in Bangalore where i can buy a new remote for the A/C?

Thank you

[inder]

Got my O General installed.Worth every penny

[anku94]

Does anybody have any idea on how much power the AC draws if it's switched off via remote but the mains power switch is still on ?

[khoj]

@anku94

Umm not really but it is a good idea to switch off from the wall switch as it can be a safety issue. The transformer and the ODU if it is a split will keep consuming electricity and this will add up especially if your utility meter is a new generation electronic one.


EDIT

@carboy

Same for the window too, they too usually have transformers. Also in the window units there have been instances of some components (probably the capacitors) and or loose wires/spliced wire connections heating up and catching fire.

[carboy]

Originally Posted by khoj

@anku94

Umm not really but it is a good idea to switch off from the wall switch as it can be a safety issue. The transformer and the ODU if it is a split will keep consuming electricity and this will add up especially if your utility meter is a new generation electronic one.

What about in a Window AC?

[AbhiJ]

Guys... my O General / General Windows A/c has developed a strange problem. It is not turning on and the orange timer light is flashing continuously.

I can find any contact details of the service centre via the company website.

[khoj]

@AbhiJ

It seems that on timer has been set inadvertently. Try cancelling out the timer settings. For service contact the selling dealer and he should be able to provide you with the necessary details in case he is not equipped to provide service.

[isldhn]

Hi Guys. As per Khoj's recommendation I've read at least 20 pages of this thread so as not to pose irritating questions. @ Khoj : Which 1 ton ac should i buy?? he he he( just joking).
Seriously, I had finalized Whirlpool chrome 1 ton 3* for my office which was costing me 19/-( just the a.c) grands with some Reebok shoes. But then I heard of this Samsung model with S-UTR plus compressors which do not need a stabilizer. Now the question is do these ac's really do not need stabilizers. I've had a refrigerator ( whirlpool) claiming the same thing but had to buy a whirlpool stabilizer after it conked of during the warranty period. I know these things depend upon the power fluctuatuions in one's area. But our power supply is not highly irratic.
So the question arises whether to go for the whirlpool chrome 3 star and get a 'desi' stabilizer( which takes fluctuations down to 160 amps) worth Rs. 1400/- with it or go for Samsung 2* with built in stabilizer. The power consumption of both the models is 1162 watts and 1330 watts respct.

[khoj]

@isldhn

Given your tryst with the fridge get the Whirlpool a/c and a Whirlpool transformer to go with it. The shoes are still free right? my size is 10, width 5E.

The Samsung S series is a new model introduced this season, so let us allow the public at large to be the guinea pigs. More so why do you want to pay for the extra electricity consumption on the S series it is nearly 170 W higher.

In the end to answer your query on whether these built in systems work, I would have to say yes. I have a Videocon 1.5 ton machine with a built in 'PTCR' circuit(please do not ask me the full nomenclature) essentially you do not need a transformer. This unit has worked well for the last 8 odd years now without a transformer, however it is equipped with the very rugged Kirloskar Copeland reciprocating compressor which is well known for its ability to take all kinds of abuse. Further since the unit is in the spare bedroom the running is not much but for whatever it is worth my experience has been positive.

[isldhn]

Originally Posted by khoj

@isldhn

Given your tryst with the fridge get the Whirlpool a/c and a Whirlpool transformer to go with it. The shoes are still free right? my size is 10, width 5E.

Thank you sir, for your 'free' advice. I must praise your patience for answering each and every question thrown at you, as if you are bound by the management, to answer all querries .
I had to start jogging soon( damn these summers, and the chilled' ....', we are so found of, in Punjab). So the shoes will serve me there. OT: One shopkeeper told me that these shoes are invoiced to them @380 something. So can reduce the invoice amount by that much if I'm not interested in the shoes.

[Randhawa]

Originally Posted by Navneet

I have a Hitachi 1.5 ton Quadricool 1.5 ton window ac. I am facing a problem with its operation for last 2 - 3 days. While working normally and cooling (with compressor running, as indicated by the compressor light), the ac suddenly stops cooling and the compressor switches off (indicated by 'no sound' of compressor running). However, the compressor light remains on. On switching off and on the ac, the compressor light continues to remain on but actually the compressor does not run 9indicated by sound) and there is no cooling. After shutting down the ac for 5 - 10 minutes and switching on again, the ac starts working normally. People who were there in the room when the problem occurred for the first time said that a "whoooosh" sound had come from the ac, like gas leaking.

What could be the problem? Apparently, there is no problem in the compressor per se or the amount of gas as it resumes functioning after some time.

Any pointers as to what could have gone wrong.

Thanks.

-Navneet

I had the same problem with my 2.ton Hitachi window AC. May I ask you how old is your unit?

If you remove the filter then you will see ice formed on top and bottom copper bends on the side of the front evaporator core. If you check the Amp consumption then it will show less then usual for e.g. if a window AC of 1.5T(new design-rotatory compressor) consumes around 7Amp then your should be showing lesser then that. But if you have reciprocator y(old design compressors) then normally it should be consuming around 8-10Amp and yours should again be lesser then that.

There is only one reason behind that, your compressor is running low compression and hence overheating. With the safety switch inbuilt, its getting switched off. A healthy compressor should have 400+ pounds of pressure and probably yours will be around 310-330 pounds of pressure.

What can you do?- Most probably the compressor inside your hitachi is from Kirloskar as I found out when I got my HItachi AC checked.

You have three options;

1.If your AC is under warranty then use it.
2.You can get a re-conditioned(from Kirloskar OEM) compressor by exchanging with your old one with 1yr warranty.
3. you can get a brand new one from Kirloskar with exchange with 1.5yrs warranty.

For my 2.T compressor I was given the option of reconditioned compressor with exchange for Rs5300 and brand new one with exchange for Rs6900. So probably 1.5T will be less expensive.

I hope a bit of info helps.

[ZeroThoughts]

I am looking for a replacement for my 26 years old window ac, yes, not a typo, it is 26 years old. Still cooling well although the Heating elements do not work anymore and have been removed and also the front grill is gone and can not find a suitable well fitting new grill for it.
I am looking for a 1.5 Ton window unit with Heat Pump function. As per my searches, the only model I could locate was an LG one but then could not find any dealers who had it with them.
Anyone on the forum knows of any other make/model or can suggest as to how to go about for the LG one?

[anupmathur]

Originally Posted by Randhawa

....
There is only one reason behind that, your compressor is running low compression and hence overheating. With the safety switch inbuilt, its getting switched off. A healthy compressor should have 400+ pounds of pressure and probably yours will be around 310-330 pounds of pressure.
....

I doubt the compressor is the culprit. If the evaporator is getting frosted, the compressor will cut off on LP (low pressure).
Evaporators will frost if:
1) The air flow through them is restricted. Could be a clogged air filter or clogged fins.
2) Expansion valve/orifice is not set correctly.
3) There is moisture in the refrigerant.

Please have the fault identified before going in for a compressor replacement.

[Randhawa]

You should add two more to the list

If the gas is less(leaked)
If the compression is low

Anyways before a technician changes a compressor, he would do the necessary checks to see whats wrong.