[condor]

Originally Posted by sgiitk

You cannot get 2700K Halogens hence the use of white bulbs.

Will yellow glass for the fog-lamps help ? Fog-lamps, as we have seen in the past, used to have a yellow glass.

[amalji]

Originally Posted by sgiitk

If everybody jumps into the well it is still wrong. Once you are hit by somebody you will learn fast.

You cannot get 2700K Halogens hence the use of white bulbs.

I was researching on this topic and could see that many people are of the idea that yellow doesn't offer much of an advantage due to the size of the fog droplets.

Pasting a conversation on the same from cartalk.com

TOM: Fog lights are low-mounted lights (bumper level or below) that project light that's cut off at the top. So the light pattern on a good-quality fog light goes straight out at bumper level and down, but not higher than that.

RAY: The reason for this is that fog tends to hover about 12 to 18 inches off the ground. So by projecting light in that fog-free pocket, you can illuminate the road a greater distance from your car and therefore see farther ahead. Some people swear by fog lights. Others claim that they don't really make much difference.

TOM: So the question becomes, to yellow or not to yellow? There's a lot of debate about this, but the research says that yellow lights are no better than white lights at penetrating fog. The theory bandied about was that yellow light has a longer wavelength and is therefore less likely to be reflected by the fog particles. Turns out, this is complete poppycock.

RAY: Apparently, the fog particles themselves are so big that they reflect all colors of light. Basically, all light bounces off of them, so using yellow light instead of white light gives you no advantage.

TOM: Plus, in order to get yellow light, what fog-light manufacturers do is put a yellow lens over a white light. That cuts your light output by 20 percent to 30 percent, which is counterproductive.

RAY: So if you live in a coastal area where fog is a real problem and you want to give fog lights a try, we'd suggest a set of high-quality, white fog lights that are professionally mounted to be sure they're aimed correctly. And don't forget to check their aim periodically. Since they're mounted low, they can be knocked out of alignment when you run over things like snow banks and stalled Toyotas.

[razor4077]

Has anyone tried upgrading the Civic headlamp bulbs to 90W (low) & 100W (high)? If so:
- Is a relay required?
- Does the higher wattage darken the headlamp plastic?
- Bulb options and costs?

[Vid6639]

Originally Posted by razor4077

Has anyone tried upgrading the Civic headlamp bulbs to 90W (low) & 100W (high)? If so:
- Is a relay required?
- Does the higher wattage darken the headlamp plastic?
- Bulb options and costs?

Normally crazy put the high beam bulb in the low beam slot (a small mod required to the bulb) and then upgraded the high beam to 100W.

I think another member mentioned this as well.

edit: here's the post from Jatinpatel:

Originally Posted by jatinpatel

Hello all,

As i had mentioned it before on the thread that i would be doing the bulb upgrade to 100w for Hi-beam which has bulb no.9005 as no upgrade options available for 9006 no bulb except for Extreme Vision which i already have.

So finally today got the bulbs of Hi-beam upgraded to 100w 9005 HB3 costing 650 per piece along with relay and wiring the bulb is of Navara company of Germany its OEM to Bmw and Merc.

The bulbs which came out of the hi-beam position were philips extreme vision 60w with bulb no 9006 which after little bit of mods to the bulbs manage to fit them inside the low-beam and coupled with the new 100w Hi-beam the difference is SUPERB!!

Total cost to me was
650x2 for bulbs = 1300
Relay + wirring + sockets + labor =1500

Total =2800rs am not counting the cost of Extreme vision here as i already had them.
but just for record each bulb of extreme vision is 475rs.

Will let the pics do the talking, dont know how to add text before each pic so
1st pic All Lights OFF
2nd pic Low Beam having 60w Philips extreme vision
3rd pic Hi + Low + fogs
4th pic Hi + Low + fogs to give depth of view of light throw
5th pic Bulb box.


@sdking
The extreme vision were improvement over the absolute blind and rubbish stock bulbs but yet didn satisfy 100% it satisfied me only 70% but current setup am very much satisfied.

[sgiitk]

@condor and @amalji. One pointa yellow glass will only cut out some of the light.

The point in favour of yellow is very simple, The scattering increases as the fifth power of the frequency (i.e.decreases likewise as the wavelength increases). So a longer wavelength will have a lesser scattering. This will result in lower glare back to you. Now a coloured glass ire removing some light (i.e reducing the intensity). Now the interplay of lower intensity and the lower scattering is by the looks of it an open question. With HIDs the source at 2700/3000K itself is yellow. So you will definitely get better penetration and less backscatter.

[normally_crazy]

Originally Posted by Vid6639

Normally crazy put the high beam bulb in the low beam slot (a small mod required to the bulb) and then upgraded the high beam to 100W.

I think another member mentioned this as well.

edit: here's the post from Jatinpatel:

Not exactly 90/100 but jatin and me are running a combination of 60/100. The OE high beams have been slotted into the low beam holders and high beams are now 100 w - with a relay.

I am more than satisfied with the outcome. I rarely use my fog lights now while earlier it was mandatory with low beam. The high beams are super - just flash it for 2-3 seconds and the car coming from the opposite sides dip to low beam immediately.

In fact these days if I spot a car behind me on high beam, I give him way and then stick behind him (high beam) till he learns a lesson!

[madnish30]

Okay, so din't get a reply to the last question, nevermind.
Another question - anyone knows the cost of new lens - driver side for 2006 Camry ?

Toyota dealer is unresponsive... Any help would be appreciated.

[Vid6639]

Originally Posted by madnish30

Okay, so din't get a reply to the last question, nevermind.
Another question - anyone knows the cost of new lens - driver side for 2006 Camry ?

Toyota dealer is unresponsive... Any help would be appreciated.

I don't think many people here would know the price of the entire assembly. However here's a few tips.

First do you have any pics? That way people will know the issue. Secondly, is the clear plastic faded or dulled. If yes then you get headlight restoration kits to fix that. If that works then your good to go else you can try to change the bulbs. Last option is to change the assembly.

Pictures are what we need along with details on the issue.

[joslicx]

If somebody, lets say, just wants to change stock bulbs to something better (same wattage so that it is just plug and play bulb change and no other mod to the setup) then what is better: Osram Night Breakers Plus or Philips Extreme vision ??

[Vid6639]

Originally Posted by joslicx

If somebody, lets say, just wants to change stock bulbs to something better (same wattage so that it is just plug and play bulb change and no other mod to the setup) then what is better: Osram Night Breakers Plus or Philips Extreme vision ??

Both are equally good but it depends on car. On some cars NBP+ performs better than Xtreme power whereas vice versa on others. It depends on reflector design.

[WanderNomad]

Friends the assembly of my Accent had got dull and was rough from top so my electrician suggested that I should get it buffed. Requested dad to get it done as I was out of city for an impromptu outing and wanted to get over with the job. The inner lens was perfectly clean and only the outer plastic required buffing.

Dad went with cousin and the buffing guy opened the whole unit by blowing hot air from the heatgun and cleaned the inside lens. It was too late before I could say no (on phone) to opening the unit however I could save the lens from washing by acid which he wanted to do. The assembly was sealed back using the heat gun and put back.

Issue: Cousin and dad feel that water will certainly seep in during rains or car wash as original pasting has been tempered with. Cousin is suggesting to insulate the joint with ample amount of Araldite all over. Request suggestion from experts please.

[mayankk]

Originally Posted by WanderNomad

Friends the assembly of my Accent had got dull and was rough from top so my electrician suggested that I should get it buffed. Requested dad to get it done as I was out of city for an impromptu outing and wanted to get over with the job. The inner lens was perfectly clean and only the outer plastic required buffing.

Dad went with cousin and the buffing guy opened the whole unit by blowing hot air from the heatgun and cleaned the inside lens. It was too late before I could say no (on phone) to opening the unit however I could save the lens from washing by acid which he wanted to do. The assembly was sealed back using the heat gun and put back.

Issue: Cousin and dad feel that water will certainly seep in during rains or car wash as original pasting has been tempered with. Cousin is suggesting to insulate the joint with ample amount of Araldite all over. Request suggestion from experts please.

For God's sake, no araldite! !!

If you're not comfortable with the fit, just get some silicone stuff, and have it seperated and redone to satisfaction .
Put the araldite on the ground, and back away!

[WanderNomad]

Originally Posted by mayankk

For God's sake, no araldite! !!

If you're not comfortable with the fit, just get some silicone stuff, and have it seperated and redone to satisfaction .
Put the araldite on ground, and back away!

I think in that case I can leave it like that for now. If in future the mositure seeps in then I can get it fixed. Your views pls!

[madnish30]

Originally Posted by Vid6639

I don't think many people here would know the price of the entire assembly. However here's a few tips.

First do you have any pics? That way people will know the issue. Secondly, is the clear plastic faded or dulled. If yes then you get headlight restoration kits to fix that. If that works then your good to go else you can try to change the bulbs. Last option is to change the assembly.

Pictures are what we need along with details on the issue.

Thanks for trying to help.

Well the issue is that the car is 5 years old and has done lots of long trips because of which the headlamps clear plastic has faded, now due to damage the passenger side assembly was changed completely which is all bright and shiny - but driver side is very faded and blocks light (as it is I find stock projectors and high beam inadequate) now - I wanted to know if only the clear plastic part can be changed ?

Also I plan to put HID/Xenon bulbs on high beam and low beam (projector lens) both - any recommendations for the same ? I went through the colors and 6000k seems good and suits the cars color.

I was also thinking of angel eyes - but then it's expensive, unbranded and comes from USA - so decided to only upgrade bulbs to xenon/hid on all 4 if not 6 (including fogs) as I do have some really dark patches (I do daily 60kms UP-Delhi), and I do know I will use it cautiously and not blare it into oncoming traffic just for "show". What's the price range of HID and Xenons ? and main pros and cons of either ? I believe xenon are brighter and have greater range - anything else ?

Pictures might be difficult as car as if away.

But image one side brand new assembly and one side 5 year old faded, yellowish and blurry plastic cover.


Also, i'd use the restoration kit if both were old - but using it on one will still give a difference of beam, as it won't become as good as new...

Any help appreciated.

[sgiitk]

@madnish30; I think for HIDs in the high beam you will have to go for projectors. HID in normal High beam lamps is a definite No-no. Also, I suggest you go for 4300K. I know these are a bit difficult to find. I consider 6000K or higher more of show offs than for real.