[VW2010]

@FLyingspur.

Are you riding only in back to back traffic. In a mixture of traffic i get around 230-240 and i fill around 9.5 litres meaning there is atleast a litre more.

Any disc adjustment specifically with respect to piston will have a bite loss effect. Just give it a weeks time. It will start getting good.

Check the chain's again just close to the tyre and see if the slack is very pronounced. It should feel tight yeat you should be able to push the chain all the ways up.

[junaid12345678]

I have some concerns regarding the ABS. Is there any minimum speed to be reached for the ABS to kick in?
A significant portion of my house's front yard has heavy algae spread and the surface is entirely slippery. Thought of testing the ABS and applied the rear brake as hard as I could at 10 kph while keeping an eye on the rear wheel. Against my expectations, the rear wheel skidded for about a meter and then the ABS kicked in perfectly. Now tested the front wheel the same way and this time the ABS never kicked in at all. The front wheel got locked up and continued to skid every time I tested. Tested again, but this time on the road at speeds of 50 kph. The ABS worked fine on both the wheels though it allowed the rear to skid intermittently and the skidding whistle was audible and the bike fishtailed a bit.
Had another experience when I failed to notice electric lines on the road, where the Electricity Board workers were on maintenance duty. The moment I noticed the lines I braked hard at 70kmph, and the bike fishtailed again and this time, it was both the wheels. Though the bike never went out of control and I got away with it.

Anybody here had any similar experience? And of course, the ABS was on all time.

[VW2010]

Hi Junaid,

I am sure you are aware of the procedure to brake specially with ABS. Unlike your normal braking where you gradually inadvertantly apply pressure and you believe its HARD as you can feel the force on the brake, you have to HIT the brake.

The reason i say hit the brake and see if there is a difference in braking performance.

The rear brake will feel like its skidding but it could be just the ABS working. Check the tyre treading and see if its rubbing the road or if its just a pattern on your tyre tread.

There could be a minimum speed.

Check post no #8 and see if that helps.

Get used to ABS. Hitting hard on the brake vs gradual braking helps you understand better. Be confident and dont start trying in a slippery surface but on a proper surface and then slowly move to the slippery surface.

[lark63]

Originally Posted by junaid12345678

I have some concerns regarding the ABS. Is there any minimum speed to be reached for the ABS to kick in?

I have attended the DIY workshop held at KTM Indiranagar. I remember the service head telling that the ABS light will go off after vehicle reaches a speed of 05 kmph. May be it means that ABS will kick in only above this speed. Will this explain the behaviour described by you ?

Note from Support - Please avoid quoting an entire post as it inconveniences our mobile and small screen users.

[lark63]

There was a DIY workshop held at Indiranagar KTM today at 6.00PM. It was specifically for D390 owners. Service Head(SH) from Bajaj,Pune addressed the gathering and made a presentation. Lots of points were discussed.

Some points that I remember, I am giving below.
1. Chain lubrication is given lot of emphasis. SH advocates the use of lubricating spray available at their workshops. Each 'Spray Can' may last about 7-8 applications.
2. Every 500km, the chain is to be cleaned with a cleaner and then to be lubricated. SH says any standard cleaner which does not affect the o-rings can be used.
3. Even every time the bike is water washed, the chain lubrication is a must.
4. The SH has emphasised use of synthetic oil only. Motul 7100 4T 10W50 only to be used.
5. Fuel - 91 Octane (or higher) to be used.
6. Chain adjustment was demonstrated. Looks like some kind of stand is essential for doing this.
7. Some power accessories like paddock stand, fork protectors (front & back), decals, tank stickers etc etc were displayed.
8. The price of Metzelers were clarified as 7K+ for front & 8K+ for rear. May be after some time these will be made available from company for replacement use. As per the SH, expected life of metzelers is around 8-10K kms.
9. The bike uses some 8 different kind of sensors.
10. The SH advocated non use of any kind of extra electrical gadgets on the bike.
11. Regarding the chain sound which comes when the bike hits a pothole could be because of the chain cover rear end hitting the saree guard. Paste a piece of foam at that place to avoid this sound.
12. Coolant & Oil level to be checked every day.
13. In emergency when coolant level falls below MIN and high coolant temp indication comes On, even odinary water can be added to the coolant but immediately bike to be taken to workshop for checking & replacement.
14. No tuning for adjusting idle speed etc possible. Everything automatically controlled by ECU. As per the SH, the emissions are guaranteed to comply with EuroIII norms for the life of the bike.
15. On cold start, the coolant is not circulated through exchanger there by allowing the engine block to warm up as fast as possible. Only after the coolant reaches 72C, the coolant will start passing through the heat exchanger.
16. On cold start, the engine rpm is automatically increased by 200-300rpm by ECU for quick engine warm up. This will be brought down later.
17. The heat exchanger fan has two airflow directions i.e., below 9kmph & above 11kmph.
18. When the temp of coolant reaches 108C, the high coolant temp indication comes on.
19. If the temp crosses 114C, it is critical.
20. ABS indication light goes off after the vehicle reaches a speed of 5kmph.

That is all that is coming to my mind now.May be I will post some more as and when I remember them.

[junaid12345678]

Originally Posted by VW2010

Hi Junaid,

I am sure you are aware of the procedure to brake specially with ABS. Unlike your normal braking where you gradually inadvertantly apply pressure and you believe its HARD as you can feel the force on the brake, you have to HIT the brake.

The reason i say hit the brake and see if there is a difference in braking performance.

The rear brake will feel like its skidding but it could be just the ABS working. Check the tyre treading and see if its rubbing the road or if its just a pattern on your tyre tread.

There could be a minimum speed.

Check post no #8 and see if that helps.

Get used to ABS. Hitting hard on the brake vs gradual braking helps you understand better. Be confident and dont start trying in a slippery surface but on a proper surface and then slowly move to the slippery surface.

Hai bro, I have tried everything from touch to hit and I feel the pressure modulation well on the levers when the ABS is doing its job. But its not doing the job at times. During normal riding when I hit the brake hard on a loose surface, the bike skids for a second first and then the ABS kicks in without any flaws. Same is the case with both wheels. But if the ABS is fully effective, then why the skid in first place which should be prevented?

Originally Posted by lark63

I have attended the DIY workshop held at KTM Indiranagar. I remember the service head telling that the ABS light will go off after vehicle reaches a speed of 05 kmph. May be it means that ABS will kick in only above this speed. Will this explain the behaviour described by you ?

The speed was about 10 km/hr. I don't think there is any minimum speed for the ABS. Imagine going downhill really slow on a bad road with a loose or slippery surface and you are in need of ABS?

[Suraj25]

Originally Posted by junaid12345678

But if the ABS is fully effective, then why the skid in first place which should be prevented?

The ABS kicks in only after the sensors detect that the wheel is locked, so it skids for a bit in the beginning when brakes are applied suddenly. Maybe for a few milliseconds. Same thing happens in cars too.

[junaid12345678]

Originally Posted by Suraj25

The ABS kicks in only after the sensors detect that the wheel is locked, so it skids for a bit in the beginning when brakes are applied suddenly. Maybe for a few milliseconds. Same thing happens in cars too.

May be, this is the answer I have been looking for

[VW2010]

The ABS kicks in only after the sensors detect that the wheel is locked

Depends on the algorithm. There are ABS that works based on acceleration and deceleration monitoring sensors which will never lock up or should never lock up. In case of KTM i think its individual sensors and individual control to front and rear. Could be that primary wheel lock is neccessary to initiate the ABS sequence.

Experts can help.

[sridhu]

Saw some good stuff about how ABS works here.

From what I understand, jumping on the brakes brings on the ABS faster but is by no means the advocated method for using ABS brakes. What is required to be unlearned is modulating the brakes, which older riders not used to ABS are accustomed to doing. Modulating ABS equipped brakes just confuses the ECU.

Otherwise, minimal & optimal use of brakes is the right way to go - increases pleasure & speed while reducing jerkiness and risk.

Update: some more info that I found. They seem to indicate that gravelly/ off-road/ loose surface braking is slightly different from wet surface braking where ABS is most effective.

Bosch seems to agree with me. They know a few things about ABS brakes!

Myths on ABS

A user view point Quote from this forum:

"On many ABS equipped bikes, the low-speed thresehold of ABS operation is below 10mph. Below 10mph, the ABS cannot release the braked wheel fast enough to overcome the hysterisis in the system at the preset cycle persecond rate. So at slow speeds the wheels can lock up. This is also why on off-road applications the wheels can "lock up", because the loose dirt/gravel surface can "dam up" in front of the tires and actually cause enough drag to slide a wheel even though the ABS is working. This can also apply on grass, say going downhill."

So @junaid12345678 that could help answer your basic query. But since it is from a similar forum, I would take it with a pinch of salt again.

[FlyingSpur]

Originally Posted by lark63

There was a DIY workshop held at Indiranagar KTM today at 6.00PM. It was specifically for D390 owners. Service Head(SH) from Bajaj,Pune addressed the gathering and made a presentation. Lots of points were discussed.

Very useful indeed. Something this on the cards for Mumbai? Any clue?

[hsub]

Check it out: Akrapovic sound on D390

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ym0IUYhuPss

I want it

[man_of_steel]

Originally Posted by lark63

8. The price of Metzelers were clarified as 7K+ for front & 8K+ for rear. May be after some time these will be made available from company for replacement use. As per the SH, expected life of metzelers is around 8-10K kms.

Thanks a lot for this confirmation lark. I enquired about this today at Marathahalli KTM, Bangalore and he said the same thing. This is actually affordable for me and now I am seriously considering cancelling my CBR booking!

[sandeepmohan]

Originally Posted by lark63

The heat exchanger fan has two airflow directions i.e., below 9kmph & above 11kmph.

The reason behind the two different air flow directions is the result of feed back from the first dispatch of motorcycles to customers in Pune. All of them reported excessive heat from the engine. More than the heat from the engine, this was the draft of air coming from the radiator fan. In bumper to bumper traffic, the fan will throw air away from the bike. On highway runs, the fan will pull in air. The re design requirement of the fan was highlighted as the reason for delays in first batch delivery.

The DIY was a good move by KTM India. It is rare to come across something like this. The gentleman who spoke did not sound like he was explaining off a book. His advice was from experience and knowledge of the product. He answered what he could and left the rest of the questions for investigation.

Accessories are pricey. The paddock stand at 6.5k is steep. I can't figure out how those tiny rubber bungs or whatever you call them, fitted at the end of the fork tube helps in a crash.

The attendance was good. The audience could have stayed more quiet. The multiple murmurs echoing in the entire showroom were enough to make it hard to hear even though I was seated right up front.

[Sutripta]

Originally Posted by VW2010

Hi Junaid,

I am sure you are aware of the procedure to brake specially with ABS. Unlike your normal braking where you gradually inadvertantly apply pressure and you believe its HARD as you can feel the force on the brake, you have to HIT the brake.

The reason i say hit the brake and see if there is a difference in braking performance.
....
Get used to ABS. Hitting hard on the brake vs gradual braking helps you understand better. Be confident and don't start trying in a slippery surface but on a proper surface and then slowly move to the slippery surface.

So on an ABS equipped bike, one should discard the old system of applying the front brakes:- squeeze, then squeeze some more, and go to 'slam on the brakes' for maximum retardation?

Originally Posted by junaid12345678

I have some concerns regarding the ABS. Is there any minimum speed to be reached for the ABS to kick in?

Minimum speed - yes.
Gravel road: Your choice of shorter stopping (and falling!) distance vs significantly longer stopping distance, but with control.

Regards
Sutripta