[Majumdarda]

Status update at 19300 +

I was observing for a couple of days that it seems that my Amun-Ra is wobbling, specially around the corners. I did cross check the air pressure and the free wheel movement and everything seemed OK. Tried taking both by hands off the handle but there was negligible deviation in traverse line. But still, around the corners there was wobbling, with a sensation that the rear tire is having a leak and its best that I stop over.

Everything seemed to be suggesting me, "you are looking at the wrong place" until I observed this at the basement, in early morning after I reached office.

https://youtu.be/2kCZts4A6ds

Please excuse the video quality and the humming back ground noise. Do notice the "khich-khich" sound coming when I am moving the tire from one side to another by hand. I also observed that the swing arm was literally moving sideways as well. Experts, please advise if this is a serious concern which is causing this sound to come or can it be adjusted by some screws.

Till date, I have been lucky not to have any punctures and therefore no rear tire removal was necessary. But is this possible or am I just hallucinating and the problem might lie some other place.

It would be great, if anyone can also post a similar video for me to compare.

Kind regards,

Bikramjit.

[ArizonaJim]

First, the noise sounds like metal to metal parts which would indicate the wheel bearings are the problem.

If you notice the swing arm move from side to side, the problem could also be with the swing arm bushings.

Although this is unlikely because the bushings are a special reinforced nylon material that usually doesn't wear a great deal, if they are allowing movement they need to be replaced.

Before assuming the bushings are the only problem, you need to do one more check.

With the motorcycle sitting on the center stand and the rear tyre clearing the ground place your hand either at the top of the wheel or the bottom. Perhaps both.

Now, try moving the wheel from side to side. (towards and away from the shock absorbers).

If there is any movement or some noise coming from the hub, the wheel ball bearings are worn out or defective.
During this test, the trailing arm may or may not move.
If it doesn't, the trailing arm bushings may still be worn. If it does move at all, the bushings are definitely worn and must be replaced.

Getting back to the wheel, there are two wheel ball bearings supporting the hub and riding on the axle.
If either or both of them are worn they need to be replaced asap before riding very far.

If the trailing arm bushings need to be replaced, have the mechanic replace both wheel bearings and the ball bearing that the brake drum/sprocket rides on.
There are three ball bearings in this area of the hub and sprocket and it is a good idea to replace them if a mechanic is working in that area.

Replacing the trailing swing arm bushings involves removing the wheel, brake/sprocket and the lower shock absorber bolts as well as the long bolt and nuts that pass thru the swing arm pivot.
Driving the bushings out can be a chore and replacing the bushings isn't an easy task either. They are a press fit in the swing arm.

Also, the mechanic may recommend replacing the nylon trailing arm bushings with old fashioned metal bushings.
While there is nothing wrong with metal bushings, they do require grease lubrication from time to time and your motorcycle swing arm does not have provisions to supply this lubrication. For that reason, I recommend using new nylon OEM bushings. (Part Number 580038)

I recommend taking the motorcycle to a dealer you trust. Preferably one who has done this work before.

[Majumdarda]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

First, the noise sounds like metal to metal parts which would indicate the wheel bearings are the problem.

Thank you for your very prompt response and I sincerely wish so too then.

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

With the motorcycle sitting on the center stand and the rear tyre clearing the ground place your hand either at the top of the wheel or the bottom. Perhaps both.
Now, try moving the wheel from side to side. (towards and away from the shock absorbers).

Jim, a bit confused I am here with the directions as shock absorbers are at both the sides of the tire. Are you suggesting me to move the rear tire left to right or up and down. I do not mind dirty hands, but I really feel very bad as I am just not able to identify what has gone wrong.

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

If there is any movement or some noise coming from the hub, the wheel ball bearings are worn out or defective.

Any sound coming up and I replace them. I got this pretty well.

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

During this test, the trailing arm may or may not move.
If it doesn't, the trailing arm bushings may still be worn. If it does move at all, the bushings are definitely worn and must be replaced.

So next comes this trail arm bushings. But if I move the wheel up and down on the center stand, I think the trailing arm will also have delta movement. So do I need to go for a replacement too ? I will probably not be able to identify the acceptable movement range. I do not mind replacing if that is required.

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

Getting back to the wheel, there are two wheel ball bearings supporting the hub and riding on the axle.
If either or both of them are worn they need to be replaced asap before riding very far.

I got this too. But how to identify? Do I have to pull out the axle to identify?

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

If the trailing arm bushings need to be replaced, have the mechanic replace both wheel bearings and the ball bearing that the brake drum/sprocket rides on.
There are three ball bearings in this area of the hub and sprocket and it is a good idea to replace them if a mechanic is working in that area.

Therefore, If trailing arm bushings are being replaced, get the below replaced too

• Both the Wheel Bearings of the rear wheel
• Ball bearing of the brake drum

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

Replacing the trailing swing arm bushings involves removing the wheel, brake/sprocket and the lower shock absorber bolts as well as the long bolt and nuts that pass thru the swing arm pivot.
Driving the bushings out can be a chore and replacing the bushings isn't an easy task either. They are a press fit in the swing arm.

Also, the mechanic may recommend replacing the nylon trailing arm bushings with old fashioned metal bushings.
While there is nothing wrong with metal bushings, they do require grease lubrication from time to time and your motorcycle swing arm does not have provisions to supply this lubrication. For that reason, I recommend using new nylon OEM bushings. (Part Number 580038)

I recommend taking the motorcycle to a dealer you trust. Preferably one who has done this work before.

I have tried to break down the work, per my understanding, as the last time I tried removing the rear mud guard, it was a total mess and I just do not want to commit the same mistake again.

I would like to proceed one by one with your suggestions. Off course I am going to take this to a good service engineer, but before that would like to perform the tests on my own and update here.

Thank you very much. Please do let me know if my understanding is wrong some place.

[ArizonaJim]

I'll try to answer your questions.

Jim, a bit confused I am here with the directions as shock absorbers are at both the sides of the tire. Are you suggesting me to move the rear tire left to right or up and down.

Left to right.

With the motorcycle on the center stand and the rear wheel free of the ground, grasp the top of the wheel (or the spokes adjacent to the rim) and try to pull the wheel towards and away from you.
If it moves toward or away from you without moving the rest of the motorcycle, the wheel bearings are bad. If any sound comes from the hub while your doing this it adds further proof the bearings are bad.

So next comes this trail arm bushings. But if I move the wheel up and down on the center stand, I think the trailing arm will also have delta movement.

It is unlikely the trailing arm will move up and down without compressing the rear springs which would take a force of many kg's.

Basically, to test the swing arm bushings, again with the rear tire clear of the ground, try moving the rear wheel to the right and the left like you did in the video.
Watch the ends of the trailing arms and ignore the side to side movement of the wheel.
If the trailing arm moves from side to side, without moving the rest of the motorcycle, the bushings are bad.

If there is no preceptable movement of the trailing arm relative to the motorcycle the bushings are good.

I got this too. But how to identify? Do I have to pull out the axle to identify?

No. You do not have to pull the axle to do this test.

Therefore, If trailing arm bushings are being replaced, get the below replaced too
Both the Wheel Bearings of the rear wheel
Ball bearing of the brake drum

Yes. If the trailing arm bushings are bad, have them replace the wheel and sprocket bearings while they are replacing the bushings.

If the trailing arm bushings are good, don't bother having them replaced. Just replace the wheel and sprocket bearings.

I hope this helps.

[Majumdarda]

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

......

Jim, you were very correct in deducing the problem. The Swing arm bush had gone for a toss and that had to be replaced. As it was approcoaching the servicing, the same was completed too at an odo of 19354.

As I got occupied with some other stuff, could not update the status here. Now Amun-Ra runs pretty well.

Also recently he just completed 20K on the odo, just one day before my b'day. A definite birthday gift from Amun-Ra.

[Siddy]

Congrats Majumdarda on that milestone!

Have you done any modifications on your Bullet 500? Mine is about to go in for her 3rd service and I am planning to switch to goldstar and wider handle bar.
Also, did you notice rust anywhere?

[Majumdarda]

Originally Posted by Siddy

Congrats Majumdarda on that milestone!

Have you done any modifications on your Bullet 500? Mine is about to go in for her 3rd service and I am planning to switch to goldstar and wider handle bar.
Also, did you notice rust anywhere?

Thank you . No major modifications till date, with the exception that I had changed the exhaust to that of the Electra's. No major rust has been observed till now but its iron and it will be present in small proportions on exposed surfaces.

One issue that has come up is from the battery. Earlier I had found out that the horns were not working but the starter used to work. Showed it to the service technician and was assured that there is no issue with the battery as the starter motor is working. The problem then had disappeared as the wiring was checked and black taping as required. But now, nothing seems to be working when I just turn on the ignition and I have to kick start my Amun-Ra to life, post which everything works.

The thing that I have observed is that after turning on the ignition if I press the starter button, then there is no sound from the motor. Also if I press the horn button, no audible notes are observed. Only the tiger lamps seems to be working in this condition. (though more of a sleeping tiger, if I may!)

But what deters me is that this has cropped up after the horn wires were taped properly. Now is it possible that there is some leakage/shorting happening at any place which is draining the battery.

Experts, please advise as I want to be double sure in replacing the battery ( if required ). Is there any fool proof way to know that my battery needs to be replaced.

I have one tought, which seems logically feasible, but am not too sure about the practical point.

First disconnect the battery and give it for over night recharging. Once done with the charging part, keep the battery at home for at least 24 hours with no connections. Then connect to Amun-Ra and check if engine is coming to life. If nothing works, then battery has gone for a toss and needs replacing. If battery is working and engine starts, then ride and observe if after overnight parking, it comes to life or not. If not, then might be the "device which recharges the battery" is not working and that needs to be replaced. Not too sure if that is termed as an alternator.

Is that a doable and correct approach in identifying the root cause. Experts, please advice with your opinions.

[Jimmy_u]

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

Thank you . No major modifications till date, with the exception that I had changed the exhaust to that of the Electra's. No major rust has been observed till now but its iron and it will be present in small proportions on exposed surfaces.

Hi Majumdara,

I have had the "device which recharges the battery" replaced and the battery replaced too, have shared the details in my other post, let me know if you want them, will share with you on PM

[ArizonaJim]

Majumdarda
After a year and a half of riding and 20,000 km traveled, if your battery is the original, it very likely has lived its life and needs to be replaced.

This is especially true if it is a regular lead/acid battery with removable cell caps and you haven't religiously kept the fluid levels in the cells up to the full line.
All lead/acid battery's loose water as they charge so checking the fluid level is needed at least twice a year. Doing this more often than that is always a good idea.

If the fluid level is at or below the "low" level indicator or below the tops of the battery plates, refill it using only distilled water. Adding Tap water will quickly ruin a battery.

Your idea about recharging the battery is a good one. Just be sure the charger is not delivering more than 2 amps while it is charging.

The fact that you can kick start your motorcycle indicates that the alternator and its voltage regulator are working correctly.

[Majumdarda]

Originally Posted by Jimmy_u

Hi Majumdara,

I have had the "device which recharges the battery" replaced and the battery replaced too, have shared the details in my other post, let me know if you want them, will share with you on PM

Please PM me the details Jimmy.

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

Majumdarda
After a year and a half of riding and 20,000 km traveled, if your battery is the original, it very likely has lived its life and needs to be replaced.

The fact that you can kick start your motorcycle indicates that the alternator and its voltage regulator are working correctly.

Huh, it means that the device that recharges the battery is called as Alternator . So can we conclude that the issue is with the battery itself and not any shortages or shall I try with recharging the battery and keeping it overnight to check if its working?

[rakesh_r]

Originally Posted by Majumdarda

Please PM me the details Jimmy.



Huh, it means that the device that recharges the battery is called as Alternator . So can we conclude that the issue is with the battery itself and not any shortages or shall I try with recharging the battery and keeping it overnight to check if its working?

Dada,I would suggest you to visit the local battery shop to check the health of the battery.I remember Arizona Jim mentioning in one of his post that in REs the engine has to attain a min speed of 2000rpm (please correct me if i am wrong) for the alternator to effectively charge the battery,below which in actual sense the battery is getting discharged).
Even if you potter around at slow speeds the battery doesn't get the required amount of power from the alternator and in due course of time starts dying very slowly.

[Siddy]

I have been observing this strange thing lately while riding my bullet 500. When I ride in the rains and I am moving at crawling speeds the front of the bike feels very bumpy like something is stuck in the suspension.

At speeds above 20 kmph this is gone. Additionally, when the bike dries up this feeling is gone completely. I typically feel it on my handle bar.I am so confused here. Majumdarda did you observe/feel anything similar?

[Majumdarda]

Originally Posted by Siddy

I have been observing this strange thing lately while riding my bullet 500. When I ride in the rains and I am moving at crawling speeds the front of the bike feels very bumpy like something is stuck in the suspension.

At speeds above 20 kmph this is gone. Additionally, when the bike dries up this feeling is gone completely. I typically feel it on my handle bar.I am so confused here. Majumdarda did you observe/feel anything similar?

Hi Siddy, I have not observed any such things with Amunra. Did you change the handle bar to one of those wide handles? On a funnier note, your Bull wants to run and enjoy the rains, let her have it

[adrian]

Originally Posted by Siddy

I have been observing this strange thing lately while riding my bullet 500. When I ride in the rains and I am moving at crawling speeds the front of the bike feels very bumpy like something is stuck in the suspension.

At speeds above 20 kmph this is gone. Additionally, when the bike dries up this feeling is gone completely. I typically feel it on my handle bar.I am so confused here. Majumdarda did you observe/feel anything similar?

To start with, please check whether the drain hole of the right spark plug well is clogged.

[Siddy]

Originally Posted by adrian

To start with please check whether the drain hole of the right spark plug well is clogged.

I somehow don't think its the engine/spark plug. The front feels bumpy while the engine is perfectly okay. It feels like just the front wheel is moving over a patch of bad road. I think its the forks that generate this. Not really sure though.