[ku69rd]

Originally Posted by nasirkaka

Ohlins or YSS are performance upgrades and made for international market where roads are generally good. Basis reviews, they greatly increase the handling of the bike esp at higher speeds. May not necessarily be ideal for Indian conditions with our mixed road conditions, esp given their high cost. I am using front suspension upgrade kit from way2speed and find it to be much better then stock in terms of comfort. The oil used is 10W.

Interesting update, however I did read your inputs on the Way2Speed setup for the front fork and am tempted to catch up with you (off course all planetary positions in place since you stay in the other part of town) to have a good look at it. Do they come up with Fork Pre load adjustors as well?

At this moment am planning to take it step by step post the fork oil upgradation. Possibly the next step for me would be to have these fork pre-load adjustors set up and give it some time to observe.

YSS/Ohlins/Way2Speed are still some time away. Possibly i will try to time them for the next fork oil replacement since it will give me sufficient time to study and observe these changes.

[ashenoy]

Has anyone on this thread got a emission control check done on their Interceptor 650 ? I went to a couple of places yesterday to get a "pollution checked" certificate, given my 650 is now over a year old, and the roads in Bangalore are crawling with cops these days.

Not one center had the Interceptor 650 listed in their software database. I eventually got the check done with Thunderbird 500 selected as the vehicle model. Not sure this is a good idea as it might only invite more harassment when stopped by the cops for a check.

[akshaymahajan]

Originally Posted by ashenoy

Has anyone on this thread got a emission control check done on their Interceptor 650 ? I went to a couple of places yesterday to get a "pollution checked" certificate, given my 650 is now over a year old, and the roads in Bangalore are crawling with cops these days.

Not one center had the Interceptor 650 listed in their software database. I eventually got the check done with Thunderbird 500 selected as the vehicle model. Not sure this is a good idea as it might only invite more harassment when stopped by the cops for a check.

Got it done last week from the Indian Oil Petrol Bunk in Indiranagar on Old Madras Road. The model name is Interseptor for some reason.

[nasirkaka]

Interesting update, however I did read your inputs on the Way2Speed setup for the front fork and am tempted to catch up with you (off course all planetary positions in place since you stay in the other part of town) to have a good look at it. Do they come up with Fork Pre load adjustors as well?

Oh yes, must plan to meet so you can ride the bike and get a good idea and take a call. They provide preload adjusters as part of the kit and i think sell them separately as well.

Has anyone on this thread got a emission control check done on their Interceptor 650 ?

I did, and pardon my ignorance, did not even bother to check the details. But recently i got the BMW 310 tested for emission and they did not have that bike on the list. The closest was BMW 320i (a car ) for BMW 310 GS and thats what he selected. The PUC certification is just designed for the dept to make some easy money. All the vehicles really polluting are the trucks, autos and state transport buses not private two wheelers which are harassed in the name of random checks, esp with stricter emissions norms coming every few years. Also the certification time duration of 6 months is too less and should be extended to one year. For cars i think there is option of opting for one year's certification by paying double the amount, but not for two wheelers. I have never come across a vehicle which had not passed that road side PUC certification.

[arpanjha]

So, after about 16 days & 412kms on the odo, took the INT650 to its first service at the SVC in Newtown, prior booking was needed. Although the location is absolutely unmarked until you reach the gates, but the guys were polite, and helpful. Satisfactory experience. But when I wheeled off to work post collection of the bike, the engine malfunction light kept glowing even 2 mins into the ride. I pulled up, called the svc, and they wanted me to roll in for an ecu check. I had asked them to be careful while pressure washing, as someone earlier had pointed out exactly the same thing, but seems they did not pay any heed. Anyways, on my way back to the svc, the indicator for engine malfunction stopped glowing and I guessed whatever moisture had accumulated has now gone, but I have a feeling it will be back soon.
100 kms ride on, first time pushing over 4000 revs, the real fun begins to kick in. And I felt really really good today. Got the stock bulb changed to a 50W HGJ lamp, plan on auxbeam H4 setup soon.

[Shumi_21]

Royal Enfield's Italian distributor, Valentino Motor Company, has created limited editions of both the Interceptor and Continental GT.

And in true Italian design flair, they have ditched the Chrome and have blacked out the exhausts, resulting in one sexy looking Continental GT



If RE launched this colour scheme with tubeless tyres, I'd get in line to buy one!!

More pictures for our collective drooling pleasure:








SOURCE

[damanbir]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Chief among them, no tyre is perfectly round and even minute differences in the seating of a tyre on the rim will cause uneven wear.

I don't see how you can blame a manufacturer for tyre wear. No more than you can blame him for brake pad wear. They are both consumables and wholly dependent on your upkeep and use.

Cheers, Doc

I don't intend to blame anything on them. I am curious to understand the large variance(6k on mine Vs 13-15k average others are getting). I understand hard acceleration and braking, laden weight, air pressure and tarmac are major determinants for wear.

1. Acceleration and Braking - I would own up to being a bit towards the spirited side of riding, but definitely not the Always All Out. I have my fair balance of smooth city cruising and speed runs. So was the wear because of this? I'd say 3k Kms.

2. Laden Weight - I am on the heavy side of the scale too, I am just 6'7" and weight a measly 130Kgs . For most that is two up riding. I am sure that will be a factor, I'd agree to a generous 2k kms difference in tyre life due to the consistent weight.

3. Air Pressure - I have been very Punctual in maintaining tyre pressure and maintain 32-36 psi, checked and refilled diligently every week. So is it that due to the above average weight, I should've maintained the Pillion tire Pressure of 32-39 Psi? Let this contribute and extra 2k Kms

4. Tarmac - Driven in straight line 80% of the times, as roads in Chandigarh are straight with all 90 degree turns, and on smooth National highways on the weekends.

Finally, lets say the average tyre life is 15k Kms, are my assumptions correct :15k - (Point 1+2+3+4) = 15k - (3+2+2)k = 8k Kms?

As per the assumptions above, Am I correct in expecting 8k tyre life from this stock tyre? or Will it the above calculation apply to all tyres? Would upsizing make any difference? Would this be a general case irrespective of any bike I ride?

Just being curious here.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by damanbir

I don't intend to blame anything on them. I am curious to understand the large variance(6k on mine Vs 13-15k average others are getting). I understand hard acceleration and braking, laden weight, air pressure and tarmac are major determinants for wear.

1. Acceleration and Braking - I would own up to being a bit towards the spirited side of riding, but definitely not the Always All Out. I have my fair balance of smooth city cruising and speed runs. So was the wear because of this? I'd say 3k Kms.

2. Laden Weight - I am on the heavy side of the scale too, I am just 6'7" and weight a measly 130Kgs . For most that is two up riding. I am sure that will be a factor, I'd agree to a generous 2k kms difference in tyre life due to the consistent weight.

3. Air Pressure - I have been very Punctual in maintaining tyre pressure and maintain 32-36 psi, checked and refilled diligently every week. So is it that due to the above average weight, I should've maintained the Pillion tire Pressure of 32-39 Psi? Let this contribute and extra 2k Kms

4. Tarmac - Driven in straight line 80% of the times, as roads in Chandigarh are straight with all 90 degree turns, and on smooth National highways on the weekends.

Finally, lets say the average tyre life is 15k Kms, are my assumptions correct :15k - (Point 1+2+3+4) = 15k - (3+2+2)k = 8k Kms?

As per the assumptions above, Am I correct in expecting 8k tyre life from this stock tyre? or Will it the above calculation apply to all tyres? Would upsizing make any difference? Would this be a general case irrespective of any bike I ride?

Just being curious here.

My point was simple. It's a consumable. And it's not made by the manufacturer.

At most if you manage to pull strings then they will escalate the matter to the tyre guys and someone will write a polite email to you. Or even call you.

Unless there is a manufacturing defect, brought to their notice early on in the life of the product, there is nothing anyone will do for a consumable.

Your size is not really a factor as you are still within the payload capacity of the bike.

Many of us get 7-8 thousand kilometers from our Metzeler's. Others get 15000 Kms. There are some super smooth guys who are very disciplined with their right wrists who even push 20k.

Just an example.

Same story with chain sprocket kits and clutch kits. Big range. Brake pads too.

Cheers, Doc

[rajshenoy]

Originally Posted by nasirkaka

Also the certification time duration of 6 months is too less and should be extended to one year.

Not sure about car vs bikes, but PUC for bs4 vehicles should be valid for a year. Bs3 and below used to be for 6 months. So they prefer later one. I make them either select BS4 or walk away. You can check your PUC and see if they list your vehicle as BS3 instead.

[GrandTourer]

People in Bangalore think their vehicles can demand a premium over others. All the guys I talked to in the pre-owned route with bikes in great condition won't budge on the 'oh so high' price tag they have set for their rides. I couldn't find a good example under 3L. That's about 30k (less than 10%) off the sticker price. Anyway, I ended up booking a new one

Originally Posted by GrandTourer

Seems like the waiting period is down to a week for the INT 650.

Booking was made on 1st Nov and today I got a mail saying bike has reached the dealer's yard. 5 days is quick for a bike that is selling like hot cakes. Will be going to do a PDI tomorrow or day after at the dealer's yard.
Anyone have a PDI checklist for INT 650?

[surjaonwheelz]

Originally Posted by GrandTourer

Anyone have a PDI checklist for INT 650?

First things first, download the owner's manual for the BS6 models from RE website and learn to decode the VIN.

I'm sharing BS4 version




You must be on your knees by now checking the engine number!

So let's start with the rims and tyres
- Check rims for chips, if yours is a custom color then black rims are easy to inspect
- Tyres have their own manufacturing dates, usually year and week of the year
- Check the tyre for newness, it should have those tiny sprouts! No visible wear and cracks

Discs, Brakes and ABS sensors
- Visible abnormalities
- Brake Pad thickness
- ABS slotted grill, finish should be uniform
- Nothing loose here
- Use a pen or your fingers to check the spokes
- Rotate both wheels and check for clearance

Front & Rear shocks
- New lot comes with fork gaiters installed, lift them and inspect the fork tubes
- Rear shock should be at the lowest setting (GT comes 2 notches up)
- No leaks here
- On the front shocks mount nut shouldn't be too worked upon. Minor assembly marks will be present
- Rotate the steering to full lock positions both sides

Under the seat
- Request to open the seat and ECU, battery, fuse box, wiring harness should be visible
- Refer the pix on the first few pages of this thread to have an image reference
- ECU under the seat will have a sticker, note down the version
- The wiring harness what ever is visible should have good taping and no loose ends!
[This may be denied by the dealer so request and check]

Painted surfaces, fit & finish
- Fuel tank from out side, fuel filler collar for internal rusting, rubber gasket on the cap
- Side panels for finish and stickering
[You can do this step with the seat open]
- Check the seat also
- Edges of both front levers, RVMs, all footpegs, rear brake, gear lever & handle bar ends for smoothness
- Check both the silencers from the header pipes to the end can, they're huge!
- Headlight clear lens, tail light etc
- Meter (instrument) console

Chain & sprocket
- 650 twins have 'DID' chains, it's a brand and you can see it written on the links
- Sprocket should look new at the teeth
[Usually there's no lube, only slightly greasy]

If the vehicle is dirty, never mind it can be cleaned (the dust) or caught in a shower in an open stockyard. Look for paint issues, marks on the painted surfaces etc. Usually SVC will wash the vehicle before you arrive. Touch and feel the surfaces. All exposed nuts and fitments should have fresh edges and touches only from the assembly line!

If all is good till now, it's time to fire her up. Always go for cold start, usual high rpms initially and then settle down to 1100-1200 rpm. By the time it settles down, check all the electricals, lights, indicators, horns etc.

You'll feel the heat by now, if allowed go for a short spin. Switch her off and put her on centre stand, keep looking around for a couple of minutes and then check the oil level at the engine window. It should be between the markers.

To summarize, your vehicle is covered under company (RE) warranty and is checked both while going out from the factory and at the dealer level PDI. Keep your senses open and fresh to catch anything missed by them. In the logistics process there might be minor issues which the dealer rectifies at his end. It's upto you whether to accept it or reject it, if found!

- Go in daylight
- Have plenty of time on your hands
- See through your eyes first then pull out the mobile camera for evidences later, click as many pictures as possible!

All the best

[GrandTourer]

Originally Posted by surjaonwheelz

First things first...
...
All the best

Thanks Surja for such a detailed checklist. There is no other place where someone would take out so much time to type out this much details to help a fellow rider. I really appreciate it. Thanks again.

I'm creating a pdf out of your post and uploading it back here for future references.

[ATTACH=Two-Wheeler RE Int 650 Conti GT PDI.pdf]2076812[/ATTACH]

[arpanjha]

Hi guys, I have two queries, I couldn’t find a satisfactory answer in the thread till now.
1. If I get a puncture do I attempt to get it repaired by the local roadside repair guy or give a call to the RSA?
2. I am a medium to short height person, I’m having a reach issue for my feet when I’m not on good roads. The other day I had to stop on a broken patch and it was sort of sudden and the ground beneath wasn’t level, I almost was about to tip over on the right. Now I have decided to shave off about an inch from the stock seats along with firming up the seat. I hope this helps. But I heard Stuart Fillingham on a video that the rear suspension could be suited to accommodate shorter riders. Can any one here confirm does that help? The rear suspension is in stock adjustment now. I usually ride on city roads with occasional bad patches, but usually not continuous bad roads or off roading.

[yesyeswe]

Originally Posted by arpanjha

Hi guys, I have two queries, I couldn’t find a satisfactory answer in the thread till now.

1. My Gt has got punctured twice in a year and at both times i got it repaired from local shops only as i couldn't wait for the rsa to arrive, make sure you ask the puncture guy to be careful and as him to place the wheel on a soft surface instead of the road.

2. You can either shave off the seat or get the gt seat, the gt seat has a slimmer foam layer and is softer so it gets compressed under the weight, my friend facing a similar issue as you swapped the Interceptor seat with me and is happy now.

3. yes the suspensions are adjustable for stiffness, if you adjust them to their softest setting they will compress under your weight a bit and your feet will reach the ground more, for adjustments read the manual and use to the tool provided in the tool box.

P. S. Wear boots more, they look cool, increases the height and protect the feet as well.

[arpanjha]

Originally Posted by yesyeswe

P. S. Wear boots more, they look cool, increases the height and protect the feet as well.

Yes. Super idea. Although I am with boots 90% time, need to buy ones with thicker base.
I will be going to wellington to get the seat modified today. Let me see how it works. Then if not satisfied will get the GT touring seat.

About puncture I hope I can stay away from it as long as possible, but I will take the RSA route for the first one, let me see how it goes. Just hoping we get a good set of alloys soon. Else I’m also thinking of getting the Royal Erada or similar named alloys on and get them black powder coated. Just the scare of pushing this mammoth on a flat tire is giving me shivers.