[dinu2506]

Originally Posted by nasirkaka

Thanks! Very well captured and in great detail. A3/SEs were plagued with this and even on my Bonnie the front fork sound over humps was a big irritant.
For the interceptor, this preload adjuster cap could be a good way to experiment. Nothing much to losse, can always revert back to stock. Hope it is ok to use PVC pipe as spacer wrt compressive strength, etc.

Originally Posted by dinu2506

Frankly speaking, the PVC pipe was a concern when I started out with this. But I read lot of reviews and could sort of understand that this is not a stressed member at all since the compressive load is taken fully by the springs. Maybe the reason why even the stock spacer is a very thin walled MS pipe. My Bonnie has been running on the PVC spacers since March 2018 (almost 2.5 years) and 8500 km. It has been holding up well, no issues. Recently, I had to open the forks for a fork seal change and could see that the spacers were in perfect condition with no cracks, chipping etc. However, if you have access to a lathe, I would still recommend you get a MS pipe spacer or if you are not too keen on retaining the stock spacers, just go ahead and trim the stock spacers.
This was one of the best mods I did on the Bonnie

Just got to understand that the new Triumph Bonneville T120 actually comes with PVC spacer as standard. Further strengthens my assumption that it is safe to use them. Just FYI

[adwaith]

Originally Posted by yesyeswe

the fuel gauge issue, every 650 is having that, just use tank full to tank full method and fill after every 220-250 kilometers. The range depends on your riding style, after 220 kms i open the tank cap and listen to the petrol moving inside while shaking the bike

I used to troll the Classic 350 for having an ammeter instead of a fuel gauge. Now I'm the butt of the joke for having a fuel gauge and not know how much fuel I have.

[neil.jericho]

Originally Posted by derek

Hi Neil, thanks again for all the details, surely will help lots of guys looking for just a led bulb. For me, like I said, I don’t do any night riding at all. Minimal if I’m transitioning through dusk and a little bit into the night. Hence all I wanted was a nice bright low beam flood which I’m happy with. And I’ve also tilted it a little lower and that suits me and my riding. Never felt the need for a high beam.

If maddog is making a brighter aux light, I’ll wait and fix those. Else I’m looking at either Baja or Denali in about a months time. Purely flood. I didn’t get the nighteye because I was told there there are a lot of fakes going around. Hence the auxbeam from bikenbiker was the logical choice.

For your usage and considering the fact that you are happy with the current setup, you really dont need additional aux lighting. But if you are going in for it, please avoid the flood lights and go for spot lighting instead. It will be much easier for you to ride with it, since you can set the lighting to illuminate the road exactly in front of you which will make riding so much easier. I used to have a pair of spot lights from A2Z earlier which made 4 AM - 6AM riding so much easier. Spot lights wills also ensure that people driving / riding on the other side of the road are not blinded by the alternate, flood lighting, which can be very dangerous for them and you.

[ashishk29]

Originally Posted by adwaith

BTW, I'm having trouble understanding my fuel gauge. It loses two points quickly and then stays there for quite a while and then drops to the last two without warning. Lately I've also noticed that there's 2 points at the beginning of the ride which go up to 4 after a while. I'm starting to think it shows range rather than the amount of fuel in the tank.

Welcome to the club brother!

While the fuel indicator is a graded digital meter in theory, in practice it serves more in a binary capacity.

It is merely functional enough to let you know that you need to fuel up some time in the near future. Who knows when that might be! Could be in another 50km. Could be in another 5. Nostradamus might have a better clue than the meter gauge. That's the thrill of it, not knowing exactly how far you can ride before it starts to puff and sputter.
(Please take it with a pinch of sarcasm)

[Alpha8118]

Hello everyone

I have recently purchased a new Interceptor 650 from the most trusted Royal Enfield dealer here in Varanasi (Khurana Automobiles). The booking and delivery experience was average overall (will explain in detail when I write my ownership experience after a few more months). The bike was handed over to me in perfect condition and initial experience while riding was very good. Due to the road and traffic conditions in Varanasi, the bike was seldom taken out and the date for the first service came when the bike only had about 380 kms on the odo. When the service centre manager asked me about the problems I had with my bike, I had only one thing to complain about. When I accelerated a bit enthusiastically, a burning smell would emerge from the engine. The SM took the bike for a spin and upon coming back, confirmed the same. When the bike was checked, we found that the engine oil had already been consumed and there was almost none left. The SM said that the smell that emerges is that of the "MOBIL" burning.

What I couldn't understand was the fact that how come a new bike which has not even been ridden for 500 KM have consumed so much engine oil. Also, after about a month from the service, the smell has started coming again under hard acceleration but is much less prominent this time around. I have not been able to take it to the service centre yet due to lack of time.

Another problem I have faced recently is that after 4500 RPM, the fuel tank starts to vibrate a bit but till 4000 RPM there are no vibrations whatsoever. I don't know if this is a problem or a thing that all Interceptors do.

Would love to hear your thoughts, inputs and solutions (if any).

P.S- This is my first time posting on the forum, so please excuse me for any mistake I may have made while posting and advice me to improve on the same.

[a4anurag]

I presume the ASC says that engine oil is burning hence that burning smell, may be.

Since the bike is just 380 kms, I think it is undergoing the running-in stage and not ready enough for spirited runs. Did you check and keep an eye on the engine oil levels?

EDIT:

Regarding the tank vibrations, there will be rubber pads/mounts on which the fuel tank sits, get them checked.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by Alpha8118

Would love to hear your thoughts, inputs and solutions (if any).

The most basic test to do to see if your motorcycle is 'burning' oil is to run your pinkie finger around the inside of the exhaust tip and then rub the same against your thumb;

1. Nothing: All is well.

2. Dark Powdery Soot: Engine is Running Rich.

3. Dark Gooey Paste: Engine is Burning Oil.

This would give you a fair idea about how your motorcycle is running, if there is no gooey residue then that just means that there is no oil getting inside the combustion chamber, there could still be a 'leak' say from the head cover which'd be leaking on to the exhaust resulting in the burning, this you can easily figure with the help of a flashlight.

Hope that helps.

Ride Safe,
A.P.

[Alpha8118]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

I presume the ASC says that engine oil is burning hence that burning smell, may be.

Since the bike is just 380 kms, I think it is undergoing the running-in stage and not ready enough for spirited runs. Did you check and keep an eye on the engine oil levels?

EDIT:

Regarding the tank vibrations, there will be rubber pads/mounts on which the fuel tank sits, get them checked.

Thank you for the suggestion. Will definitely check them tomorrow. Also, I never crossed 4000 RPM till I reached the 500 KM mark after which revving till 6000 RPM is allowed. The problem used to occur when accelerated quickly but still under 4000 RPM.

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

The most basic test to do to see if your motorcycle is 'burning' oil is to run your pinkie finger around the inside of the exhaust tip and then rub the same against your thumb;

1. Nothing: All is well.

2. Dark Powdery Soot: Engine is Running Rich.

3. Dark Gooey Paste: Engine is Burning Oil.

This would give you a fair idea about how your motorcycle is running, if there is no gooey residue then that just means that there is no oil getting inside the combustion chamber, there could still be a 'leak' say from the head cover which'd be leaking on to the exhaust resulting in the burning, this you can easily figure with the help of a flashlight.

Hope that helps.

Ride Safe,
A.P.

Thank you! Will check and update tomorrow.

[abhi9044]

I would advise you to get the drain plug washer and the valve cover gaskets checked. If you find oil on the fins of the engine then you have your culprit for the oil consumption(i.e Valve Cover gasket). Also as mentioned by ashwinprakas sir, check for the deposits on the exhaust tip.

If you find nothing there, then you might want to check your Spark Plug as even the smallest amount of oil will foul your plugs with a greasy deposit. Also since your bike has a oil cooler be sure to check for any leaks from that too.

A new bike, shouldn't be consuming oil, until there's a manufacturing defect. So leakage seems to be the most likable cause for oil loss.

And since this is a new bike, please take some time to get used to it's power and also let the bike run-in. Avoid full throttle for the 500-1000kms. I know many people don't recommend this move, but it's better to be conservative.

The burning smell that you are experiencing, could be from engine running in. This is something that I've witnessed on my friend's new scooter too. This was all gone after 1000 kms since the runnig in was completed. But make sure that there is no impact on drivability, if you feel that engine is struggling even a bit, stop the bike and let it cool down. The risks are not worth taking. Also, low engine oil could be contributor for that too so keep an eye on the dipstick/watch glass.

Also don't extend the oil drain intervals from what has been mentioned in the manual. There are minute particles in the oil, especially during it's run-in period that might cause significant damage if the bike's oil changes are ignored for long.

Thanks,
Abhishek.

[bblost]

My Himalayan used to run very hot till the first service. But it did not consume engine oil at that rate.

I suggest you keep a very close watch on the engine oil level on a daily basis till this gets sorted.

[Alpha8118]

I think it's best to take the bike to the service centre ASAP and have the bike thoroughly checked so as to prevent short and long-term damages.

But seriously, didn't expect such issues from the bike so soon into the ownership. A bit disappointed with RE.

Will take the bike to the centre and post an update on the situation. Any more inputs are highly appreciated

[bigron]

All new bike engines smell foul for the initial few hundred kms. The new parts have alot of coatings that burn of as the bike is ridden. A normal smell should not be a need of worry and should go away in some time. Give it a nice long ride 200/300 kms and then see. Keep a close watch on the oil level.

If you feel the smell is still apparent then we need to start looking for leaks and things like that. Around the cylinder heads, exhausts, exhaust manifolds etc. Take a look at the clutch, and if you ride the clutch.

If all else fails take it to the A. S. S.

[surjaonwheelz]

Hello 650 Twin Owners,

With this pandemic around, make the most of the riding opportunities you get. I had two weekend rides after installing the HDT customs angled risers (Ridden: Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 & Continental GT 650 Twin) on my INT650 and it feels the natural position for my height! It feels as if the bike came with this handlebar position stock from the factory, it's such a natural modification.

Enjoy the pic from one of the rides. With late monsoons in MH everything was lush green.


I'll play around with the brake and clutch lever positions next. I'll see if a slightly slant position helps. Right now, I don't have any problems as such with the lever positions. But when you're not riding you're tweaking your ride!

Keep exploring,
surjaonwheelz

[vkochar]

I took my longest ride this sunday early morning with 3 other fellow bikers - an iron 848 , street rod and another interceptor.

We went to a lake 75 kms from agra. So drove 150 kms in total

An absolute delight to ride this bike.

BUT the backside screams for a halt after 45 min of riding - this is not a long distance tourer !

[adwaith]

Originally Posted by ashishk29

Welcome to the club brother!

While the fuel indicator is a graded digital meter in theory, in practice it serves more in a binary capacity.

It is merely functional enough to let you know that you need to fuel up some time in the near future. Who knows when that might be! Could be in another 50km. Could be in another 5. Nostradamus might have a better clue than the meter gauge. That's the thrill of it, not knowing exactly how far you can ride before it starts to puff and sputter.
(Please take it with a pinch of sarcasm)

Well, the shaking thing sounds legit and that's what I'm going to have to rely from now on.


Here's a pic from a short ride few weeks ago. Been wanting to post it for a while.