[geotracks]

Originally Posted by amalji

I guess, they are made in India now. I hope, quality is not compromised.

I think for the Automatic Transmission (AT), these may still be imported from Thailand. But asked here, just in case someone knew for sure.

Originally Posted by Turbanator

BMW and now many others have electric parking/ Hold functions, so when you push the brake, the car goes onto Auto Hold function and you can remove your foot from the brake pedal. The car will move ahead when you press the accelerator.

Yes, the Audi Q3 in India, also has this electric parking feature. Agree it is very helpful.

The auto start/stop feature also is nice to have. Of course I need remember to turn off the AC each time the vehicle auto stops. Implementation of this feature (in addition to other differences such as black leather seats, smoked head-lights, more chrome, black side panels etc.) could also be the reason the Touring Sport's price is higher than the corresponding regular Crysta. Of course I would not have minded having electric parking and auto dimming mirrors also for the price premium.

[AShubrah]

Will a DBH3 bulb fit into the HB3 socket of the high beam?
I’m planning on going the HID route but I’m confused between the Osram DHB3 6000K HID Conversation Kit Generation 2 & the Osram DHB3 Xenon 6000K Eco HID Conversation Kit.
Also, even though it’s been discussed a million times on the forum, can someone just give me a solid point to choose 4300K over 6000K?

[Behemoth]

Originally Posted by AShubrah

Will a DBH3 bulb fit into the HB3 socket of the high beam?
I’m planning on going the HID route but I’m confused between the Osram DHB3 6000K HID Conversation Kit Generation 2 & the Osram DHB3 Xenon 6000K Eco HID Conversation Kit.
Also, even though it’s been discussed a million times on the forum, can someone just give me a solid point to choose 4300K over 6000K?

Yes the DHb3 bulb is the retrofit version for the hb3 bulb and will fit. I would suggest the 4200K bulb as the visibility is better due to balanced white light primary components (RGB) whereas in 6000K the blue component is higher. The Gen 2 version of the kit has higher light output than the Gen 1 kit. On Amazon you can get the Gen 2 kit 4200K for around 8000 Rupees when it is on lightning deal ( have seen it at least once every week)

[Sankar]

Originally Posted by AShubrah

Will a DBH3 bulb fit into the HB3 socket of the high beam?

Also, even though it’s been discussed a million times on the forum, can someone just give me a solid point to choose 4300K over 6000K?

Yes, but these are mainly designed for projector headlight incandescent bulb replacement since many vehicles across the globe come with halogens in projectors. The accompanying OSRAM leaflet states that. Choose the 4300K, it will be better for vision.

HID bulbs made to be used in HID reflector headlamps will contain and "R" as a suffix. Eg: D2S for projector and D2SR reflector.

If you do want to go for HID in your existing headlight ideally use an HB3R HID bulb it will be less glaring than HB3 HID.

I'm using a HIR1 bulb instead of the stock HB3 since more than an year, it is better than the stock HB3 and even extremevision HB3.

[AShubrah]

Originally Posted by Behemoth

I would suggest the 4200K bulb as the visibility is better due to balanced white light primary components (RGB) whereas in 6000K the blue component is higher. The Gen 2 version of the kit has higher light output than the Gen 1 kit.

Thank you for your inputs, Behemoth Sir.
I’ll be going for the 4200K, since anything higher than that is simply giving me less lumens per watt input.
Also, the only reason I considered the 6000K as an option was because of the colour matching that can be possible on the car, since all the other front facing lights are the same colour temperature LED bulbs.

Originally Posted by Sankar

Choose the 4300K, it will be better for vision.

If you do want to go for HID in your existing headlight ideally use an HB3R HID bulb it will be less glaring than HB3 HID.

Thank you for your inputs, Sankar Sir.
The high beam will be used only on roads where no vehicles are approaching from the opposite side, so glare won’t be an issue for me. I just want whiter light & increased light output from the OEM high beam reflectors.
Also, I had no luck searching for HB3R HID bulbs online. I know that D2S & D2SR exists, but are you sure that the HB3 has an R variant as well?

Originally Posted by Sankar

I'm using a HIR1 bulb instead of the stock HB3 since more than an year, it is better than the stock HB3 and even extremevision HB3.

Good sir, care to enlighten me with what an HIR1 bulb is?

[Sankar]

Originally Posted by AShubrah

Good sir, care to enlighten me with what an HIR1 bulb is?

The HIR bulbs are not some tinted or over-wattage version of 9005 or 9006, but rather employ a relatively new technology called HIR, Halogen Infrared. The mechanical dimensions of the bulb are all virtually identical to the 9005 or 9006, but the bulb glass is spherical instead of tubular, with the sphere centered around the filament. There is a "Durable IR Reflective" coating on the spherical glass. Infrared = heat, so the coating causes heat to be reflected back to the filament at the center of the sphere. This causes the filament to become much hotter (producing more light) than it can by passing electricity through it, *without* the shorter life or greater heat production that comes with over-wattage bulbs (to say nothing of over-wattage bulbs' incompatibility with stock wiring.)

Here's the comparison:
Hi Beam stock: 9005, 12.8V, 65W, 1700 lumens, 320 hours / Hi Beam ... HIR1(9011), 12.8V, 65W, 2530 lumens, 400 hours

Src: https://store.candlepower.com/9011hir.html

These HIR bulbs are a unique product, the only bulbs available that use the research technology that General Electric patented in 2000 (patent number 6,087,775). It was GE's goal to create a bulb that produced 75% of the light output of HID headlights at 25% of the cost. GE sells HIR bulbs for residential lighting and specialized projectors, but decided to stay out of the automotive market and licensed this technology to a division of Toshiba. In fact, Toshiba and GE are among the few companies in the world with the expertise to engineer and build this product. These bulbs attain light levels 75% to 110% brighter than stock as a result of an engineering process that deposits multiple, yet almost invisible, layers of semi-reflective coating on the surface of a specially shaped quartz bulb. This coating ( a titania/silica, zinc oxide/silica, zirconia/silica, silicon nitride/silica, and titania/magnesium fluoride tantalam/silica multi-layer dielectric, according to the patent) reflects a portion of the infrared energy emitted by the filament back onto the filament, causing it to glow brighter and emit more light from the uncoated forward portion of the bulb. Although the filament gets hotter, the glass does not. IT GENERATES NO MORE HEAT THAN A REGULAR HALOGEN BULB, AND IT DRAWS THE SAME WATTAGE AND AMPERAGE AS THE STOCK 9006 BULB IT REPLACES

Src: http://www.finemotoring.com/

I'm on HIR1 since 2016, better than stock but not as bright as HID.

[amalji]

Originally Posted by geotracks

The auto start/stop feature also is nice to have. Of course I need remember to turn off the AC each time the vehicle auto stops.

Why would you do that ? I never touch the AC buttons when auto stop/start works.

[AShubrah]

Originally Posted by Sankar

The HIR bulbs are not some tinted or over-wattage version of 9005 or 9006, but rather employ a relatively new technology called HIR, Halogen Infrared.

I never knew something like this even existed.

Anyhow, where’d you get your HIR bulbs from?

[geotracks]

Originally Posted by amalji

Why would you do that ? I never touch the AC buttons when auto stop/start works.

I have been given to understand over the years by different auto service technicians & service managers that before turning off any vehicle, switch off the AC. That way the next time one re-starts a vehicle, the AC pump does not immediately turn on - couple of reasons probably:

* 1st reason, too much drain on battery at start, since the battery has to supple power to the starter of the vehicle AND simultaneously supply power to the AC pump (is also the reason it is advised to first turn off head lights if any vehicle (including bikes) stalls before attempting re-start)

* 2nd reason could be that at the time of startup it is not advisable to give full power to the AC pump. The preferred option would be for the engine to start and then turn on the AC pump so the voltage is stabilized better as compared to having the AC pump turned on with a power surge suddenly when starting the vehicle. e.g. when headlights (HL) are left turned on with engine off, many times it is seen the headlights dim a bit (draining excess battery) as we start the engine and then the HL come on full power.

Of course one can argue that the cab guys having little or no knowledge of some of this, tend to just leave the AC unit on and just start their vehicle. Not sure if any of them run into any type of AC pump / circuitry maintenance / replacement situations. But I have seen many cab drivers if their car stalls, immediately switch off the head light (HL), re-start their vehicle and then turn the HL back on.

I have no data points to prove either ways as to which approach is the best, but just got into a habit of turning off the AC when the engine is off. Thus in this case, once I lift the foot off the brakes, the engine starts and then I turn the AC back on.

[Sankar]

Originally Posted by AShubrah

I never knew something like this even existed.

Anyhow, where’d you get your HIR bulbs from?

Its available on amazon usa and auto stores in usa.

[Vulken Auto]

Originally Posted by Sankar

Auto stop start does help in saving fuel if that is what the user wants*. It has been tested and proven to work, 5th Gear also did the test on one of their episodes

I have seen this episode of tiff needle testing start stop tech on a small diesel car. It did save 12% fuel.

Originally Posted by geotracks

However, in city or suburb stop & go traffic it may use up the starter life more than the value of the fuel the feature saves.

I have this feature Start stop tech in my Merc and after initially enthusiasm I never used it.

On different context, today I inflated my 16" tyres to 35 psi, the ride is horrible and I can feel every bump on the road. As amalji described rear wheel gives shock to drivers seat. What a difference in ride with just 2 psi difference

[Sankar]

Upgraded reflector headlight H11 bulbs to Philips H11LED and it looks promising and the cut off mimics halogen. Was planning to put it in fogs if the beam was not good now that it is good I'll see how it is at night. These are halogen replacement LED lights and there is no glare at all. Now have to change the fog lights bulbs also to LED.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by geotracks

I have been given to understand over the years by different auto service technicians & service managers that before turning off any vehicle, switch off the AC. That way the next time one re-starts a vehicle, the AC pump does not immediately turn on - couple of reasons probably:

I have no data points to prove either ways as to which approach is the best, but just got into a habit of turning off the AC when the engine is off. Thus in this case, once I lift the foot off the brakes, the engine starts and then I turn the AC back on.

It's a good habit IMO. I too always switch off the AC and other accessories before starting AND always press the clutch (gear always in neutral) by force of habit.

However, the battery does not supply any 'power' per se to the AC compressor save for activating/engaging the electro-mechanical clutch when the AC/climate control switch is on and ignition switch is at the ON position. The compressor is powered only by the engine off the crankshaft by a belt.

However, it does power the blower which at full blast can draw quite a bit of power. But the battery and charging systems are designed to take this load. Many owners don't even bother to switch off any accessory before starting. I haven't come across anybody reporting any detrimental effect except maybe an extra load on the battery and resulting lower battery life over the long term.

[Lego28]

Originally Posted by Sankar

Its available on amazon usa and auto stores in usa.

That is interesting. Any First hand experience with the same?

[Sankar]

Halogen


LED


Park only


Low beam


This is better than I expected and there is no glare. No one flashed me tonight with my low beams ON. This is the new type Philips LED totally different compared to their previous H11 model, maybe thats why this turned out to be better beam wise.

I will post a wall pic later on, I usually park with the nose out so did not get a wall pic today.

Next is fogs.