[autocrat]

Originally Posted by samsag12

Can you share a picture of the rubber cap (dust cover), am curious to know how it looks as its missing in my S1.

Dear Sagar,

Please find the pic:


The circle you can see, was where the stitch was, the half torn rubber sheet that was sewn to this one was discarded. The idea is to get another rubber sheet from a discarded tube, and use Fevicol SR adhesive to join them.

[HimuraKenshin]

Hi,
Can anyone tell me where i can procure such a chassis number plate.
Mine has corroded badly..
If i get a blank one, i'll be able to get the numbers punched.
Also, im in need of a fiat1100D monogramme.
any leads?

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by HimuraKenshin

Hi,
Can anyone tell me where i can procure such a chassis number plate.
Mine has corroded badly..
If i get a blank one, i'll be able to get the numbers punched.
Also, im in need of a fiat1100D monogramme.
any leads?

Dear Himura-san,

Very difficult (next to impossible) to get an original blank. These were / are issued to assembly line strictly on a one per vehicle basis, to prevent misuse.

Stick to the original one as long as you can.

Goutham

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Dear Gowtham - the pinion oil seal seems to be leaking, the axle photograph shows the flow path. Don't panic and don't do anything in haste. As you have put new axle oil, please monitor the oil level periodically, it should not go down drastically. It will take 2 minutes for you to sleep below the car with a 17mm size ring spanner, slowly open the filler plug and check. If the level is OK, leave it alone. If it is very low, then you will have to replace the pinion oil seal. Don't open it, I will give you the exact process only when necessary. Also, clean the underfloor area at this location, sometimes the propeller shaft rear cross joint grease also flies in all directions and gives a feeling that oil is leaking. Check the propeller shaft rear cross joint, does it have a grease nipple? Check the residue in your hand, you will recognize the difference between oil and grease. The muffler is original to part number PAB12453. Just get a small piece locally welded on the leak, it will last you for at least a year. Have you done the tappet setting and timing setting? This will give you maximum benefit.

Dear Shom - chassis plate vendor was in Bhandup, he would have dried out years ago. Please preserve the chassis plate that you have.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Gowtham - the pinion oil seal seems to be leaking, the axle photograph shows the flow path. Don't panic and don't do anything in haste. As you have put new axle oil, please monitor the oil level periodically, it should not go down drastically. It will take 2 minutes for you to sleep below the car with a 17mm size ring spanner, slowly open the filler plug and check. If the level is OK, leave it alone. If it is very low, then you will have to replace the pinion oil seal.

Okay sir, I will check the level and report.

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Don't open it, I will give you the exact process only when necessary. Also, clean the underfloor area at this location, sometimes the propeller shaft rear cross joint grease also flies in all directions and gives a feeling that oil is leaking. Check the propeller shaft rear cross joint, does it have a grease nipple? Check the residue in your hand, you will recognize the difference between oil and grease.

I remember when I got the car greased, the person greased 2 points on the propeller shaft, I will anyway check if grease nipple is there, when I check for the oil level.

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

The muffler is original to part number PAB12453. Just get a small piece locally welded on the leak, it will last you for at least a year. [u]Have you done the tappet setting and timing setting? This will give you maximum benefit

Sir I have not done either tappet setting or the timing setting. I have ordered feeler gauge set online today as I am still have the cast. I dont know if the gauge I ordered will be accurate or not

Once I get it, I will do the tappet setting on dead cold engine, as advised.

I feel I need supervision for the timing setting.

[boeuff]

Can someone tell me what make fuel pump came in my 76 padmini, I want to pick up a rebuild kit.

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Originally Posted by boeuff

Can someone tell me what make fuel pump came in my 76 padmini, I want to pick up a rebuild kit.

Dear Boeuff - the car came with a "SOLEX" pump made by Carburettors India Ltd. Subsequently the name changed to "IBEX" but the product remained the same. Why do you want to change the kit? What has happened? Has the diaphragm punctured? If yes, petrol will mix with engine oil as it will leak past the diaphragm and enter the sump. Check for petrol smell on the dipstick and increase in oil level.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by boeuff

Can someone tell me what make fuel pump came in my 76 padmini, I want to pick up a rebuild kit.

Sir someone is selling repair kits on TBHP classifieds, please check. Also the Fuel Pump is made by UCAL.

And Team, I have compiled most of the specifications and advise provided in this thread in the following chart. Just hoping that it will make searching for quick information easier:

[boeuff]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Boeuff - the car came with a "SOLEX" pump made by Carburettors India Ltd. Subsequently the name changed to "IBEX" but the product remained the same. Why do you want to change the kit? What has happened? Has the diaphragm punctured? If yes, petrol will mix with engine oil as it will leak past the diaphragm and enter the sump. Check for petrol smell on the dipstick and increase in oil level.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

Dear Behram Dhabar, Thanks for the information.
The problem that has been there for a while is if the car has not been started for about 2 weeks, then it takes a few cranks (3-4)to fire up.
It starts with half a crank if used more frequently. I was hoping to clean the fuel pump valves to see if that will fix the issue.
I don't think the diaphragm has a problem as no petrol smell or oil level increase seen.
Before I touch the pump, I wanted to make sure I have a kit.
I am also considering installing an electric fuel pump. Any thoughts

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by boeuff

Dear Behram Dhabar, Thanks for the information.
The problem that has been there for a while is if the car has not been started for about 2 weeks, then it takes a few cranks (3-4)to fire up.
It starts with half a crank if used more frequently. I was hoping to clean the fuel pump valves to see if that will fix the issue.
I don't think the diaphragm has a problem as no petrol smell or oil level increase seen.
Before I touch the pump, I wanted to make sure I have a kit.
I am also considering installing an electric fuel pump. Any thoughts

Dear Boeuff,

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

4. Maruti Omni fuel filter added before the electronic fuel pump inside the spare wheel well, same as in all my other cars.

I intend to move to this setup as well, we can source the fuel filters and pumps. I dont remember which electronic pump to buy though. Also have to see how to wire it. Also, should the electronic pump be used only to start or its operational all the time?

[boeuff]

Originally Posted by autocrat

Dear Boeuff,



I intend to move to this setup as well, we can source the fuel filters and pumps. I dont remember which electronic pump to buy though. Also have to see how to wire it. Also, should the electronic pump be used only to start or its operational all the time?

Ucal fuel pump is what you would buy,
Someone has picked up one for me from Coimbatore.
I thought there was a detailed post somewhere on fitting it by Behram Dhabar?

[boeuff]

Originally Posted by boeuff

Ucal fuel pump is what you would buy,
Someone has picked up one for me from Coimbatore.
I thought there was a detailed post somewhere on fitting it by Behram Dhabar?

Here is the post # 955, will install the electronic pump per this.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/post-w...ml#post2818202

[HimuraKenshin]

Hi Everyone,
What are your views on Padmini's running on natural gas / LPG?
does it have harmful effect on the engine in the long run?
The S1 that i purchased earlier had an LPG kit, which i have removed.

Fiats and Padmini's made for brilliant donor cards, countless examples of such taxis are still visible in Mumbai.

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Gowtham - It will take 2 minutes for you to sleep below the car with a 17mm size ring spanner, slowly open the filler plug and check.

I used the car's front floor mats and crawled under the car - the rear tyre pressure had dropped so I barely had any vertical clearance. I was not able to open the filler plug as I could not get enough leverage or elbow room, or the nut is overtightened. I took few pics with one hand using front cam on mobile, and tried again with one hand on the differential, but was too slippery to get a grip

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Check the propeller shaft rear cross joint, does it have a grease nipple? Check the residue in your hand, you will recognize the difference between oil and grease.
Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

I was not able to push myself beyond rear axle, so just ran my hand around the propeller shaft flange joint and except 4 bolts on the flange there was nothing. The residue is definitely oil, and pretty old I guess, as there is a lot of sand particles and muck sticking. There seems to be layers of oil there, and the topmost is wet and deeper its like wax. Pics attached:













Procured SS bolts and nuts to fix the metal plates under the pedal and also got feeler gauge to set tappet clearance:

[autocrat]

Hello All,

Some more updates:
1) Got a brand new 2 wheeler tube (old rubber would have lost strength and all work will go waste if rubber disintegrates in a few days), cut the tube to the size of the metal plates:



2) Marked and punched holes for assembling:



3) Assembled everything in the car, but the nuts have to be assembled from below the car. Behram Sir had already mentioned its difficult for one person to do the job, and he was right as usual. My father sat in the car and pushed the bolts down, while I did the needful from near the wheel well. The bottom left bolt is invisible and almost inaccessible, but somehow managed to thread the nut correctly:



Finally, a long pending job is done:


Also, I took another cut from the tube, split along the fold, pasted them together with the Fevicol SR adhesive forming a circle, and after it dried, covered the speedometer cable access hole:


I did not get the shape right as the width of the flat part of the tube was barely enough. Will make a better one from a bigger tube.

There is some coir material behind the parcel tray and it is disintegrating, and filling the floor with dust. Any solution to this?