[autocrat]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Ilangop Now read carefully - insert the ignition key, turn it through 90 degrees (not 180 degrees) and then withdraw the key. In this positiion, no electrical circuit will operate but the key will come out. It is known as "garage position".

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

Just Yesterday, I was wondering what this position was for. As the lock is old, it simply turns 180 degree, but yesterday I noticed there was a mild click and the key stops there, if turned slowly...

Whew... so much to learn! I am not complaining

[FINTAIL]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

A question - what if I end up using DOT4 specification brake fluid instead of DOT3?

Currently, the brake fluid (if you may call it so) is a black, gooey mass. And umm....the brakes require a LOT of ''pumping'' before you can actually use them.

Might install a Mikuni carb soon. I presume the 118NE carb + air filter combo is the most appropriate?

An acquaintance has a full Premier 118NE engine (The Nissan/BMC A12)+ GB combo.

I'll try to get some parts off that combo.

Are there any specific disc brakes one can fit? I plan to modify the car a bit- to make it a bit friendly for daily running.

The (planned) modifications are as follows:

A] Mikuni Carburettor. (How I dearly want a set of dual Weber 40 DCOE carbs!! )

B] Front + rear disc brakes + brake booster.

That's it.

[autocrat]

Buddies,

I had some nerve racking moments few minutes back. I idled the car for 10 mins till the idling stabilized. Then I felt a little adventurous so decided to take the car for a spin. After about a km, the car stalled in the middle of the road when I was shifting from second to third. I tried to start the car, but the starter motor only did barely half cranks. As traffic behind me was piling up, some good Samaritans offered to push the car. I started the car and barely made it home, when the car switched off again. Had a tough time pushing it in and parking.

I guess I have started my journey on the learning curve

Question: As the starter motor turned a bit and died, I thought it might be a battery problem. However, when I got down I noticed that the cabin lights came on in full brightness. I tried to crank again, but the car just coughed and did not start.

Should I get the battery checked? Or can it be some issue with starter motor?

I notice that, when I switch on the headlight, the lights brighten up only after some accelerator input. All this makes me feel the battery is on its last legs, please do help me with this problem.

I don't really want to be in this situation again, this is a good enough lesson.

[Bulldogji]

Originally Posted by FINTAIL

A question - what if I end up using DOT4 specification brake fluid instead of DOT3?

Currently, the brake fluid (if you may call it so) is a black, gooey mass. And umm....the brakes require a LOT of ''pumping'' before you can actually use them.

Might install a Mikuni carb soon. I presume the 118NE carb + air filter combo is the most appropriate?

An acquaintance has a full Premier 118NE engine (The Nissan/BMC A12)+ GB combo.

I'll try to get some parts off that combo.

Are there any specific disc brakes one can fit? I plan to modify the car a bit- to make it a bit friendly for daily running.

The (planned) modifications are as follows:

A] Mikuni Carburettor. (How I dearly want a set of dual Weber 40 DCOE carbs!! )

B] Front + rear disc brakes + brake booster.

That's it.

Fintail,

Dot4 brake fluid is more hygroscopic than Dot 3.

Therefore I would use Dot3 in older cars whose brake cylinders are more rust prone.

Weber 40 DCOE carbs are available at a price, If you are really keen, go for it.

[FINTAIL]

Originally Posted by autocrat

Should I get the battery checked? Or can it be some issue with starter motor?

Get the battery checked- and the starter; along with the alternator.

Yep- see if the alternator is working properly. Also get the ignition system checked- just in case.

Our FIAT 1100D was giving similar behaviour- replaced the alternator, and things were back to usual.

I notice that, when I switch on the headlight, the lights brighten up only after some accelerator input. All this makes me feel the battery is on its last legs, please do help me with this problem.

Oh- pretty much the same story here.

The headlight's intensity increases quite a bit with accelerator input. Even with a brand new battery.

_________________________

I wonder if this assumption of mine is right:

For Premier Padmini's; the Deluxe BE trim had bench seats; and the Deluxe BU trim had bucket seats. The BE and BU stood for Bench and Bucket seats respectively.

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by FINTAIL

Get the battery checked- and the starter; along with the alternator.

Yep- see if the alternator is working properly. Also get the ignition system checked- just in case.

Our FIAT 1100D was giving similar behaviour- replaced the alternator, and things were back to usual.

Sir, how much would the alternator cost now? I bought some spares today, will post details later today

[FINTAIL]

Originally Posted by autocrat

Sir, how much would the alternator cost now? I bought some spares today, will post details later today

PYS 5775 a.k.a MMU 5324; our 1972 FIAT 1100D uses a Lucas - TVS alternator.

I think it's the first alternator fitted to the car. Fitted in the mid - 'Nineties, I think. Not very sure on this.

The original dynamo was thrown out decades ago. Two decades, to be precise.

The alternator I think is a Lucas TVS SA15. Our 1997 Maruti 800 (a.k.a Suzuki Alto SB308) also used the same, if I recall correctly.

The alternator in our FIAT 1100D has been overhauled countless times, the most recent one being in 2014. A new Lucas - TVS SA15 costs approx. 3 or 4k ish, IIRC.

EDIT: Lucas TVS Part Number: 26021303 - SA15 alternator costs ~ ₹4700.

Refer to this link: http://121.241.226.145/lucaswebstore...Val=ALTERNATOR (Note: The link may take a bit of time to open)

Alternatively, if you have a good enough mechanic/auto electrician, you can overhaul the alternator; i.e change the coiled copper core. Alternator overhauls are quite cheap, compared to a new alternator.

Godspeed.

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by FINTAIL

EDIT: Lucas TVS Part Number: 26021303 - SA15 alternator costs ~ ₹4700.

Refer to this link: http://121.241.226.145/lucaswebstore...Val=ALTERNATOR (Note: The link may take a bit of time to open)

Godspeed.

Thanks a lot FINTAIL

I have a fundamental question:
Is what I have on my car an alternator or a dynamo? Attaching a picture:



This evening did some shopping for the lady:

1) Ignition Coil





2) Rear suspension bushes (not sure where the ones without bolts fit)





3) Purolator Oil Filter



4) Spider Kit (i don't recollect this brand being even discussed on this thread, but even "Ganes" brand was not available. I am not sure if the car needs it right away, but felt its good to have as a stand-by for any emergency.



5) Finally front suspension kit:



HT Cable, correct spark plugs not available.

The dealer suggested a different spark plug model and told me its the same thread size and it fits. I politely refused. Also - same ignition coil is available for 950, 1100 etc. I located a lucas dealer and got it for 730, with bill.

[CrackedHead]

Originally Posted by autocrat

Thanks a lot FINTAIL

I have a fundamental question:
Is what I have on my car an alternator or a dynamo? Attaching a picture:

Autocrat - that is an alternator. Get it serviced at a Lucas TVS workshop and it should be as good as new.

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by CrackedHead

Autocrat - that is an alternator. Get it serviced at a Lucas TVS workshop and it should be as good as new.

CrackedHead: Thanks!

Today I have completed reading the technical information thread, and I came across a picture of the TVS-Lucas alternator SA15 in one of the pics, and the one on my car seems to be different.

If the alternator indeed is the issue, I will try to procure a new TVS-Lucas one.

[HimuraKenshin]

I have an issue with temperature sensor on 2padminis
The first one is an s1.
The temperature Tee was replaced, but the gague doesnt work. When the wire is shorted out to the body of the car, the meter jumps, so i know that the gauge is working. The tee is located just below the carb.

The second is a 137 D.
The temp tee in this case has 2 wires. The gauge doesnt read anything even after hours of driving. When the wires are grounded, the meter jumps as well.

Please advise, this has been bothering me for quite a while.

[ilangop]

Originally Posted by HimuraKenshin

I have an issue with temperature sensor on 2padminis
The first one is an s1.
The temperature Tee was replaced, but the gague doesnt work. When the wire is shorted out to the body of the car, the meter jumps, so i know that the gauge is working. The tee is located just below the carb.

The second is a 137 D.
The temp tee in this case has 2 wires. The gauge doesnt read anything even after hours of driving. When the wires are grounded, the meter jumps as well.

Please advise, this has been bothering me for quite a while.

Looks like the sensor is at fault. Could you check continuity between sensor output lead and body ground on S1 and between the 2 leads on the 137D using a multimeter?

[autocrat]

Team,

Update on the starting problem:

I noticed the car battery had "GUBBI" written on it. I vaguely remembered that Gubbi was a small town in Tumkur district, but why would anyone want to write that on a battery?

In one of those moments where you feel enlightened, it struck me that this car was maintained by a nice gentleman mechanic called Kuppi, and Kuppi in Tamil can be read as "Gubbi".

I figured that the car was equipped with a dying battery to close the sale, but nevertheless did the following checks:

1. Checked the battery voltage: 12.2 V
2. Checked the drop upon cranking: 4 V
3. Checked Linea battery voltage: 12.6 V
4. Checked the drop upon cranking: 10.2 V

I suspected a dead cell, so I removed the Padmini battery from the car, opened all the cell caps, and shorted the battery - there was sparking, but barely. However no bubbling from any cell.

I took the battery to the battery shop and after checks, the old battery was discarded and a new AMARON took its place under the bonnet.

The car started on half a crank, but the idling was iffy. However, on accelerating, the voltage across terminals went up to a healthy 14V. I requested my neighbourhood garage owner Xavier (who owns an old Padmini himself) to set the idle, which he did in a minute.

Assured that the battery would get charged, did some 20 km driving in the city. The car ran well, and the temperature needle hovered under the halfway mark.

Drove to IOC bunk on RV road for a wash and greasing, but as they were busy I was advised to come back on a leaner day. Right now, hoping to find a HP bunk with service facility tomorrow.

[autocrat]

The IOC bunk does only washing on weekends. No greasing. Also, all service centers say chassis grease is not available now as production was stopped due to environmental reasons. Advise is to go with white lithium grease. Is this okay?

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Dear Gowtham - the suspension spiders that you have purchased are not original, please return them. Please DO NOT use aftermarket spiders, the material will not take shock load! In your car, the front suspension seems to be unopened and therefore original, nothing needs to be done immediately (refer underlined note below). PLEASE DO NOT OPEN THE SUSPENSION, NO MATTER WHAT ANYBODY TELLS YOU. DO NOT DO ANYTHING SILLY ON YOUR CAR! Setting the spiders is a specialized job, the tolerance on the OD is 24 microns, 99% of the guys do not understand what to do, they will spoil the stub axles.

The Lucas TVS coil is OK. The VIR leaf spring bushes are OK, the ones with the nuts go on the rear side. The EMA suspension rubber bush kit is OK.

In case of the battery also, you should have gone go through a simple process of elimination. Without touching the alternator, just put a "service battery" from the friendly neighbourhood batterywallah and use the car for a couple of days. If it works, the old battery was a dud. Also measure the specific gravity of the electrolyte by a hygrometer. It must be 1.2 in all cells. Its so simple, but friendly neighbourhood batterywallahs will forever remain ignorant of simple things ()! This is nothing new for me, I just quietly do what I have to do and find my own way, you'll have to do the same. Please post photographs of the new Amaron battery, I want to see whether it meets JIS-D-5301 (JIS means Japanese Industrial Standard).

Note: Get the lubrication done, no compromise on grease quality.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar