[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Originally Posted by autocrat

I have observed that both rear indicator lights glow at a very low intensity even when neither indicators are on. Should I look near the combi-switch for some shorting?

Dear Gowtham - check earth connections of the tail lights inside the dickey. Apply electrically conductive grease at earth points, its an earthing issue.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[boeuff]

Finally installed a door mirror that doesn't foul with the quarter glass and also swivels to close.

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Gowtham - check earth connections of the tail lights inside the dickey. Apply electrically conductive grease at earth points, its an earthing issue.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

Sir, I see a whole lot of messed up wiring behind the right fender. I just hope none go live and get shorted to the ground. I will start taping them off tomorrow evening.

Today was hard labour, scraped off and hand sanded the rust on driver side floor pan until i could see bare metal, cleaned off by dipping a clean cotton waste in thinner, and sprayed rustoleum textured silver on the floor. Sadly I ran out of paint, but I had an F1 silver can as a back-up, but it smells awful.

Scraping and sanding off till I hit bare metal:


Finally the W-Plate comes off the car, will be fitted back with bolts as outlined by Behram Sir:


Cleaning and masking:


Question: Is this how the accelerator pedal mount comes welded from the factory or is this a later job? The pedal reminds me of the Omni pedal.

After spraying the floor:


Also, from the time I got the car, the RH door mirror was not holding position and as I am not used to driving without mirrors, I was having a tough time.

I am not finding good quality door mirrors - non are convex enough - almost like plane mirrors, which are totally useless. Also, I want to keep the car as original as I got it, if not better.

The swivel mechanism bold had corroded and fused to the nut, and WD40 in generous quantities did no good even after 15 days. As the goal was to tighten the bolt to increase the spring load to hold the weight of the mirror, I pried the nut up, to make some space between the nut and its seat, and inserted a piece of wire. After I put everything back, its holding nicely, but don't know how it will fare when the car is taken out.

Originally Posted by boeuff

Finally installed a door mirror that doesn't foul with the quarter glass and also swivels to close.

Dear Boeuff,

What a co-incidence that we are both posting about mirrors! The mirror mount on your car seems to be custom made if I am right - lovely job

The chrome mirror goes very well with the classic looks of rest of the car!

[boeuff]

Originally Posted by autocrat

Dear Boeuff,

What a co-incidence that we are both posting about mirrors! The mirror mount on your car seems to be custom made if I am right - lovely job

The chrome mirror goes very well with the classic looks of rest of the car!

Autocrat,
Good job on the floor paint.
The mirror mount is a custom job.

[autocrat]

Hello All,

Its was a sober day until 4:30 pm when I signed off from work and finally got to car work.

I used metal shears to cut a relief where the clutch pedal was scraping the plate. Before cutting I positioned the plate and tried to adjust in a way not to interfere, but I could not get it right, so I made a relief.


I then hammered the plate to straighten out the bends and undulations.


Sanded off the rust and old paint, cleaned and sprayed a fresh coat.



Need to get good quality bolts and nuts to fasten the plates.

Also, what is the purpose of this hole provided on the transmission tunnel near the gearbox? Is that an inspection window or used as an access for mounting / adjustment?


Kindly let me know. There was a rubber cap made of 2 rubber sheets here and I want to know if we can use any alternate method to close it - makes a good place for rodent entry.

Also, I understand that the front seat has a slider mechanism, and I was able to locate the lever, but not able to move in either direction. I just want to know if the seat is pushed all the way back, where I want to be.

Since my car is a 1990 model, I am hopeful it came with the "Fiat ki patli wali seat" - the PU one, but how to ascertain if it did, and if the original seat is hidden under the seat cover? I am hoping its not been replaced or worked upon.

[autocrat]

Friends, I need a help - I am trying to locate the indicator relay on my car, but I am not able to find it. The space behind the steering column is a big mess of wires. I tried to trace the wiring backwards from the front indicator, but I am not getting enough room to get to that part. HELP!!!

Also serendipitous discovery:
I discovered this switch hidden away under the dashboard:


As we can't hold back our curiosity, I pulled it, and suddenly there were some noises that made me feel something went awfully wrong. But then I realized that the cassette player had come to life, and started playing the cassette I had put in earlier to check - nice


There are only 2 rear speakers, and similar ones were seen on another Padmini of same age, so is this tape player a stock one fitted by company?

I am attaching the accelerator pedal and sealed the driver side drain hole with the rubber grommet.


Kindly let me know how to get to the indicator relay,

Warm Regards,
Goutham

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Originally Posted by autocrat

1. I used metal shears to cut a relief where the clutch pedal was scraping the plate. Before cutting I positioned the plate and tried to adjust in a way not to interfere, but I could not get it right, so I made a relief. I then hammered the plate to straighten out the bends and undulations. Sanded off the rust and old paint, cleaned and sprayed a fresh coat. Need to get good quality bolts and nuts to fasten the plates. 2. What is the purpose of this hole provided on the transmission tunnel near the gearbox? Is that an inspection window or used as an access for mounting / adjustment? Kindly let me know. There was a rubber cap made of 2 rubber sheets here and I want to know if we can use any alternate method to close it. 3. I understand that the front seat has a slider mechanism, and I was able to locate the lever, but not able to move in either direction. I just want to know if the seat is pushed all the way back, where I want it to be. 4. Since my car is a 1990 model, I am hopeful it came with the "Fiat ki patli wali seat" - the PU one, but how to ascertain if it did, and if the original seat is hidden under the seat cover? I am hoping its not been replaced or worked upon.

Dear Gowtham - my replies are as follows:

1. This is exactly what I would have told you to do, you did it in any case, so good, please continue to learn like this, actually working on the car is the only way to learn. The interference is the resultant of tolerance stackup in the Y axis (transverse).
2. The opening is for accessing the speedometer cable connection at the transmission end, which you need to remove for taking out the transmission in case you want to change the clutch. The two stitched rubber pieces are original and if mounted properly, they will do the job perfectly. There is no need to do anything else, just mount it properly. All garages are known to leave them there without putting them back!
3. The front bench seat has a sliding mechanism, but it gets jammed due to ingress of the jute which comes off the carpet. Just pry-off the front seat base, it is located by two spring plates below the base at the front, one on each side. Then remove the 6 nuts to take the backrest off the car. Lubricate the sliders, then they will work. Most of the time they won't work properly because due to the single seat length being high, the slider skews and gets stuck. Correct it as required.
4. Your car does not have the "fiatwali patli seat", as this seat was introduced in 1991. The patli seat was supplied by Vijayjyot Seats Pvt Ltd Baroda, whereas the regular seat was made inhouse in Kurla plant. I worked on this project so I know, the front seat is derived from the Maruti van's rear seat (). My father's friends' black color 1991 model Premier Padmini Deluxe BE car MH01B2301 was one of the first cars to have the patli seat. The patli seat is identified by having rectangular ends to the front seat backrests, whereas the regular seats have round ends. The patli rear seats cover the wheelarches whereas the regular seats do not cover the wheelarches.

There is no "indicator relay" in the Padmini, it is known as a flasher. It is mounted behind the instrument panel on the steering column support. Premier Padmini never came with factory equipped stereo system, everything was aftermarket fitted. In those days it was quite normal to fit a master switch for the stereo. The accelerator pedal is attached to the floor by a U shaped bracket welded to the floor. In your car, this bracket is not original. The fulcrum pin had a key, which is replaced by an M6*1.0 size bolt, but its OK as long as its fitted and welded properly otherwise the accelerator system will stick and the engine idling will never be proper. As per the drawing, the pedal is oriented facing 9 degrees towards the outer edge of the car. As you have masked the ball joint, I cannot see whether it is original or not, the original one has a spring clip holding it in position, now the ball joint and clip are extremely rare to find. The aftermarket ones have two cross holes in which two split pins are mounted, they are complete nonsense, if you have the aftermarket one you must remove it and throw it out because it will never work properly.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Gowtham - my replies are as follows:

1. This is exactly what I would have told you to do, you did it in any case, so good, please continue to learn like this, actually working on the car is the only way to learn. The interference is the resultant of tolerance stackup in the Y axis (transverse).

I am only following your instructions Sir

Here is the post you mentioned how to do it, in point number 4:
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/post-w...ml#post3785927

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

2. The two stitched rubber pieces are original and if mounted properly, they will do the job perfectly. There is no need to do anything else, just mount it properly. All garages are known to leave them there without putting them back!

The rubber sheet on one side has disintegrated, and the stitches are torn, but I have a solution in mind. I will cut off a part of my Linea's discarded tube and use Fevicol SR to bond this to the surving OE rubber. I hope it will work.

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

3. The front bench seat has a sliding mechanism, but it gets jammed due to ingress of the jute which comes off the carpet. Just pry-off the front seat base, it is located by two spring plates below the base at the front, one on each side. Then remove the 6 nuts to take the backrest off the car. Lubricate the sliders, then they will work. Most of the time they won't work properly because due to the single seat length being high, the slider skews and gets stuck. Correct it as required.

Weekend booked

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

4. Your car does not have the "fiatwali patli seat", as this seat was introduced in 1991.

I think I need to search for one, or simply change the way I sit

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

There is no "indicator relay" in the Padmini, it is known as a flasher. It is mounted behind the instrument panel on the steering column support.

I will leave this alone. Its working, so I will just clean the lenses, contacts and put everything back as they are.

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

The accelerator pedal is attached to the floor by a U shaped bracket welded to the floor. In your car, this bracket is not original. The fulcrum pin had a key, which is replaced by an M6*1.0 size bolt, but its OK as long as its fitted and welded properly otherwise the accelerator system will stick and the engine idling will never be proper. As per the drawing, the pedal is oriented facing 9 degrees towards the outer edge of the car. As you have masked the ball joint, I cannot see whether it is original or not, the original one has a spring clip holding it in position, now the ball joint and clip are extremely rare to find. The aftermarket ones have two cross holes in which two split pins are mounted, they are complete nonsense, if you have the aftermarket one you must remove it and throw it out because it will never work properly.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

Sir I will post a pic of the ball joint and the linkages.

Also planning to put the W plate back in position. This will pave way for carpeting the front.

[autocrat]

Update: One of the reverse light earth was disconnected, so I connected it, turned the key to "ON", saw the battery charging and oil pressure light came on, and slotted the gear to reverse, to see if the light works. In a second, both the lights in the dash went off. I went behind and checked, no lights are on. I checked the dash, no lights. Flashed headlight - the blue light in dash is not glowing. No turn signals working. Temperature and fuel indicators are not working

The parking lights and headlights do work, so I am assuming that I might have disturbed some wire when I tried to look for the flasher.

I do some work on the car and it creates more work for me. But I am not giving up on DIY. Please, someone help me with the wiring diagram.

As most of the wires outside of the dash have been cut paste job, its difficult to go by wire colour, but at least I will try to figure out whats going wrong.

There is probably not a single wire that's not taped up.

All fuses are as they were. None blown.

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Originally Posted by autocrat

One of the reverse light earth was disconnected, so I connected it.

Dear Gowtham - reverse lights as fitted in production Deluxe BE and Deluxe cars do not have earth connection wire, the earth is through the metal body only. Check whether some aftermarket nonsense is fitted on your car, if so, remove it and throw it out. The reverse light switch is on the LH side of the transmission. As your car is a Deluxe BE, you will see a small sheet metal hump on the front LH floor, just in front of the speedometer cable opening, this hump is given to provide design clearance for the reverse light switch projection. This feature is not there on standard and economy cars so the floor panel part numbers were different. Two wires go into the reverse light switch, check for a short between these wires, the construction is not reliable.

Headlights = 5 days job. Complete wiring = 2 additional days job. Both jobs will lead to severe back pain, I have found out the hard way. Result = permanent resolution of all electrical issues! . There is no other way, don't waste your time with half-hearted attempts.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Gowtham - reverse lights as fitted in production Deluxe BE and Deluxe cars do not have earth connection wire, the earth is through the metal body only. Check whether some aftermarket nonsense is fitted on your car, if so, remove it and throw it out.

Its indeed aftermarket, with 2 black wires coming out - will be replaced with OE ones (already procured).

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

The reverse light switch is on the LH side of the transmission. As your car is a Deluxe BE, you will see a small sheet metal hump on the front LH floor, just in front of the speedometer cable opening, this hump is given to provide design clearance for the reverse light switch projection. This feature is not there on standard and economy cars so the floor panel part numbers were different. Two wires go into the reverse light switch, check for a short between these wires, the construction is not reliable.

Okay Sir, I will check this up - Probably this is where its shorting.

I went through this link by boeuff which gives the fuse number and circuit data. It appeared that fuse no. 8 might have failed, so I went back to car today and checked in daylight, and the fuse had indeed burnt. I got some bullet fuses (very old ones with oxidized metal), cleaned the seats and pushed it in, disconnected the reverse lights, turned the key on - and things are back to normal - so indeed, the reverse light switch connections will be checked and corrected.

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Headlights = 5 days job. Complete wiring = 2 additional days job. Both jobs will lead to severe back pain, I have found out the hard way. Result = permanent resolution of all electrical issues! . There is no other way, don't waste your time with half-hearted attempts.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

Yes, I will need to do up the complete electricals. Are OE harnesses still available?

I forgot to mention that after the "white clip" on the ignition coil was removed, I notice the engine "feels better". I cant tell exactly what, but there is definitely a positive difference - crisp I must say

Also, the windshield wipers haven't been replaced and the windshield had enough deep scratches to make low light driving unsafe.

Removing the glass is risky - if the metal below is rusted, I simply can't fit a new glass without repairing it. I discussed this problem with a fellow BHPian detailing expert and he was kind enough to come over to my place and polish the glass for me. All the minor scratches are now gone, and deep ones don't look as bad as before.

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Gowtham - reverse lights as fitted in production Deluxe BE and Deluxe cars do not have earth connection wire, the earth is through the metal body only. Check whether some aftermarket nonsense is fitted on your car, if so, remove it and throw it out. The reverse light switch is on the LH side of the transmission. As your car is a Deluxe BE, you will see a small sheet metal hump on the front LH floor, just in front of the speedometer cable opening, this hump is given to provide design clearance for the reverse light switch projection. This feature is not there on standard and economy cars so the floor panel part numbers were different. Two wires go into the reverse light switch, check for a short between these wires, the construction is not reliable.

Sir, the old reverse lights were of Sweet Trade make with some poor wiring, I have removed them and replaced with new ones from Union make. Liked the manufacturing date


ALso, the number plate lights were not working, the mounting bolts were rusted and almost giving way. Replaced with new ones from Sweet Trade.


Now all lights work, but I have understood that car needs complete re-wiring.

The following spares were sourced:

112.5 Jet, made by Carburettors India. I dont know if I will ever use this, but since I felt its original I got it:


Also, 2 jets marked 102 (not 102.5), one has no brand, the other has SOLEX stamp, but came without the bubble pack.


Original carburettor packing kits, made in 1991, Thin packing (MSC1010, but dealer promised it will fit 1061):


Points: are these suitable for Padmini? Made in England, so I guess was made for some British car.


Finally, KPACCO 102.5 Jet and a "local" packing kit (thick one, had bought this earlier, since I got the thin ones, these will be discarded).


Warm Regards,
Goutham

[autocrat]

Team,
Update:
Front Parking lights, indicators, rear number plate lights, reversing lights, all work now.







Also, I could locate the leakage on the muffler. As i had just started the engine, I put a finger on this hole and there were no other leakage sounds - looks like only one place. Can anything be done or the it should be replaced?


As I checked the underbody, I was alarmed to see completely wet rear end, and I was terrified for a moment thinking its petrol, but there is no smell. The differential is also completely soaked. Can it be differential oil? Has any packing given way? :(

[samsag12]

Originally Posted by autocrat

The rubber sheet on one side has disintegrated, and the stitches are torn, but I have a solution in mind. I will cut off a part of my Linea's discarded tube and use Fevicol SR to bond this to the surving OE rubber. I hope it will work.

Can you share a picture of the rubber cap (dust cover), am curious to know how it looks as its missing in my S1.

[autocrat]

Originally Posted by samsag12

Can you share a picture of the rubber cap (dust cover), am curious to know how it looks as its missing in my S1.

Hello Sagar

Its 2 octagonal pieces of rubber sheet, slightly bigger than the hole, joined only in the center with circular stitching smaller than the hole. one rubber sheet on either side with the stitched part covering the hole.

I will post a pic later in the day.

Also, here is the video showing the oil on underchassis - has the differential oil seal failed? Can the car be driven a few kms to a workshop?

https://youtu.be/oT8AAQYloQY

Sorry for the jarring video, had to struggle a bit to get there - and you can also see the leak on the muffler.

Goutham