[samsag12]

Originally Posted by DudeWithaFiat

My '95 Premier Padmini S1 has the same exact issue. Not just the oil-pressue light, but the low-fuel light too is ON consistently. And the analog clock on the console does not work. Have to watch this thread.

What even mine has the low fuel LED constantly on. BTW i solved the puzzle of oil pressure light. It was earthing with the exhaust as the wire came out from the pressure switch end. The insulation too got melted thus did some DIY and replaced the wire with a new one, voila the problem solved.
Regarding the Fuel LED, i am going to check it step by step as recently i replaced the sender unit with a new one and thats when the light started glowing constantly. Hope i find solution to this problem too. Will keep you updated on this.
Regarding the clock, luckily mine is working properly. You can find a replacement clock at the scrapyard.

BTW mine too is a '95 model

[DudeWithaFiat]

Originally Posted by samsag12

It was earthing with the exhaust as the wire came out from the pressure switch end. The insulation too got melted thus did some DIY and replaced the wire with a new one, voila the problem solved.

You can find a replacement clock at the scrapyard.

BTW mine too is a '95 model

Great. And good job . I will have to check that when I get to the car this Friday (I'm out-of-station at the moment). Do let me know about the low-fuel light too. Thanks in advance.

Regarding the clock, Is it powered from a separate battery inside the clock?

And how do you find the ride quality in the back? Mine is very bumpy and when I checked the leaf-springs, I see that they are too stiff. I'm getting the leaf-springs out this friday to clean and put them back in. Please do update about the ride-quality in the back.

[samsag12]

Thanks for the appreciation.Do get the wire checked, might be the same issue. Will definitely share the status on low fuel light too. BTW i managed to fix the old fuel sender ( original Yenkay DOM 09-1994). Looking for a suitable float assembly for it though.
Clock is powered by the car battery, no internal power source. Get the connection checked, though wiring is not standardized but in mine its a light green wire. Will let you know which pin powers the clock.
Regarding the ride quality, it seems fine to me though some amount of stiffness does prevail but its not that bumpy. Hope you get the problem sorted out soon.

Please do share some pictures of your car. Have seen a few shots on the PP forum although would love to see the complete pics of the car, interior, engine bay.
Post them on this thread: http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/indian...1100-d-26.html

[DudeWithaFiat]

Originally Posted by samsag12

Do get the wire checked, might be the same issue.
Please do share some pictures of your car. Have seen a few shots on the PP forum although would love to see the complete pics of the car, interior, engine bay.
Post them on this thread: http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/indian...1100-d-26.html

Yep. Gotta get the wires checked again. I had fixed the rear number plate lights couple of days back. There is this shop at Cochin called Minerva where we still get many PP parts.

Sure, will definitely upload more pics in a few hours. I don't have much pics on this computer (at office now).

BTW, how did you know it was my car in the PP forum

[samsag12]

Originally Posted by DudeWithaFiat

Yep. Gotta get the wires checked again. I had fixed the rear number plate lights couple of days back. There is this shop at Cochin called Minerva where we still get many PP parts.

Sure, will definitely upload more pics in a few hours. I don't have much pics on this computer (at office now).

BTW, how did you know it was my car in the PP forum

Thats a great news, i would love to share my wish list with you now
Regarding the pics, please do upload at you leisure, no hurries.
Well from your TBHP avatar Sree, i even interacted with you on Mehul bhai's forum. Replied to a thread of yours at GH. Need more reasons

[S1FIAT]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear S1FIAT - please PM me your mobile number, I'll call you and guide you in totality. I presume your car is a Premier Padmini, then electronic fuel pump must me mounted below the spare wheel inside the boot area. 118NE sketch is of no use. You are welcome to see the installation in all my cars. Two of my cars are in Pune and I also work in Pune.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

Originally Posted by kavesh55

Hi S1 Fiat- Would recommend the earlier setup. The mechanical fuel pump runs fine on an S1. However, Dhabhar.Behram on the forum would be the best to answer this.

@Behram; kavesh55 - Apology for late reply, i was little offtrack - anyway, thanks for your valuable info

Behram sir you can text me your number on 9881136048, and let me know good time to contact you, then will ping you for fule pump assistance.

Thanks a lot guys,

Sameer Pingale
(S1FIAT)

[DudeWithaFiat]

Originally Posted by samsag12

Thats a great news, i would love to share my wish list with you now

i even interacted with you on Mehul bhai's forum. Replied to a thread of yours at GH. Need more reasons

My bad samsag12.

Regarding the wishlist, anytime my friend. Bought rear number plate light holders from there last week.

[samsag12]

Originally Posted by DudeWithaFiat

Great. And good job . I will have to check that when I get to the car this Friday (I'm out-of-station at the moment). Do let me know about the low-fuel light too. Thanks in advance.

.

Originally Posted by samsag12

Thanks for the appreciation.Do get the wire checked, might be the same issue. Will definitely share the status on low fuel light too. BTW i managed to fix the old fuel sender ( original Yenkay DOM 09-1994). Looking for a suitable float assembly for it though.
Clock is powered by the car battery, no internal power source. Get the connection checked, though wiring is not standardized but in mine its a light green wire. Will let you know which pin powers the clock.
Regarding the ride quality, it seems fine to me though some amount of stiffness does prevail but its not that bumpy. Hope you get the problem sorted out soon.

I managed to fix the Fuel sender problem myself. Here's what i did:

First of all checked if the meter and wiring of fuel is good, by shorting the +ve wire to the body(ground). It showed full meter.

Cleaned the carbon on the +ve as well as -ve terminal. Scraped all the unwanted rubber coating on the ground pin which was affecting the ground pin connection.

Next, fixed everything into place. Still the meter wasn't ready to budge.

Fingers crossed, got down to change the sender unit with the original one (which i repaired), connected it and powered the car, VOILA it worked, the reserve light went off and meter displayed correct reading. Must say Ohreeginal is Ohreeginal, nothing compares to it.

The strange thing that happened next was when i checked the new sender unit with a multimeter, it worked.

Next target is to get the Temperature meter in order.

[Fiat&Me]

Hi TBHP Fiatians,

Yesterday morning when I took my P. Padmini (Petrol-1987 make with Dynamo), I found that the battery lamp was glowing throughout the ride. I immediately understood that there is some fault with Dynamo or Cut-out(Relay box) and it will drain the battery. So without continuing further drive i came back and discontinued the -ve terminal to avoid further discharge.
Today morning i went to my electrician and he opened Cut out/Relay box ( the box with three coil relays and connections which is located to the left side of steering column when you open bonnet/in front right wheel compartment and attached to the wall of dashboard from behind). The fault is if we press the contactor by finger, battery lamp is vanishing but it is not happening automatically after racing the engine. Then he cleaned all three relay contactors with petrol and tried to change the setting by rotating the circular plate of 1st relay ( suppose to be for battery charging) but not happening. So he asked me to replace this cutout box with electronic one. Or to change the complete dynamo to alternator based system. As i always prefer not to touch the original if it is working. (two years back I have already done dynamo servicing/ removing carbon on plates and it is working fine). Also changing to alternator means some change in holding assembly and fan belt which I don't prefer.

When inquired with shop, there are three cutout/relay boxes available.
1. TVS Make
2. AutoLec Make
3. Electronic

As per electrician, he is preferring Electronic one which is exact match and no change in wiring is required. As I always go for original (to the best available) my opinion is TVS make with three coil relays.

What I should do? Please give your valuable suggestions. I am going to replace on coming Saturday (24th Mar12).

[Fiat&Me]

Posting photos of Dynamo and Lucas TVS Cut out/ Relay box.

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Originally Posted by Fiat&Me

Hi TBHP Fiatians,

Yesterday morning when I took my P. Padmini (Petrol-1987 make with Dynamo), I found that the battery lamp was glowing throughout the ride. I immediately understood that there is some fault with Dynamo or Cut-out(Relay box) and it will drain the battery. So without continuing further drive i came back and discontinued the -ve terminal to avoid further discharge.
Today morning i went to my electrician and he opened Cut out/Relay box ( the box with three coil relays and connections which is located to the left side of steering column when you open bonnet/in front right wheel compartment and attached to the wall of dashboard from behind). The fault is if we press the contactor by finger, battery lamp is vanishing but it is not happening automatically after racing the engine. Then he cleaned all three relay contactors with petrol and tried to change the setting by rotating the circular plate of 1st relay ( suppose to be for battery charging) but not happening. So he asked me to replace this cutout box with electronic one. Or to change the complete dynamo to alternator based system. As i always prefer not to touch the original if it is working. (two years back I have already done dynamo servicing/ removing carbon on plates and it is working fine). Also changing to alternator means some change in holding assembly and fan belt which I don't prefer.

When inquired with shop, there are three cutout/relay boxes available.
1. TVS Make
2. AutoLec Make
3. Electronic

As per electrician, he is preferring Electronic one which is exact match and no change in wiring is required. As I always go for original (to the best available) my opinion is TVS make with three coil relays.

What I should do? Please give your valuable suggestions. I am going to replace on coming Saturday (24th Mar12).

Dear Fiat and Me - the ORIGNAL "dynamo voltage regulator" (this is the correct name) or "cut out" (this is its trade name) was manufactured by Lucas TVS, Chennai. It may still be available at official Lucas TVS retail outlets across the country. The reason it fails is climatic erosion of contacts over a period of time. Please do not use any other make as it is not certified for Premier Padmini charging circuit application.

For alternator - the best way will be to purchase and use a brand new Lucas TVS manufactured SA15 specification alternator assembly, as used in Maruti 800 carburettor application cars. The pulley interface dimensions match perfectly. The mounting brackets to suit Premier Padmini were sold by Lucas TVS but they are quite flimsy and not perfectly engineered for this application, so not recommended. For Premier Padmini S1 engine, we had layout engineered cast bracket for the alternator assembly alongwith a correct brace. See if you can get a set and use it. If not, PM me, I'll see if I can locate a set for you. With alternator, the quintessential dynamo cut out will disappear from the circuit.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[Fiat&Me]

Thank you very much Behram Sir for the reply. Normally we keep on using the same name by what mechanic says regularly. (E.g. condenser point, chimny, silencer dholki, strut chimta, shockop springs, side pattti etc etc) First of all i got the correct part name ("Dynamo Voltage Regulator") . Yes I found lot of rust inside three contactors and the oval shape plates for adjustment were also jammed. None of them was rotating. I will look for Lucas TVS store in Hyd/Secunderabad and buy the original one from them.
Also thanx a ton for extending help to locate cast bracket for alternator. As on today, since the Dynamo is working fine, I will not go for alternator. But may be in future if it fails then definitely I'll go for SA15 alternator from Lucas TVS for Maruti-800. At that time I may trouble you a bit.

[Fiat&Me]

Hi Behram Sir and Team-bhp Fiatians,
I have searched almost more than 20 shops in Hyd/Sbad. Since Dynamo system was replaced by alternator by PAL around 1992(I think 1st time in S1) , this Voltage regulator is almost obsolete. In every shop only local make" BALAK" is available. Only in one shop I could get Autolek regulator which i thought is of good quality and purchased at Rs 380/-. After replacing the unit in the car, still problem persists. i.e. even after racing engine, Battery lamp is glowing. Electrician tried to adjust the plates of three points but everything in vain. His opinion is Dynamo is not supplying full current so needs to be serviced again. ( Since I don't know much about the car electrical system, I am doubtful that just to get some additional work and money he is forcing me to go for alternator). Already in life time of 25 yrs I have replaced carbon plates once , I am thinking to convert to alternator based system.
Tomorrow I'll purchase SA-15 model (Around Rs. 3100/-) and give it to electrician. Already given some amount to buy mounting bracket and belt. So total conversion cost will be around Rs 3800/- to 4000/-.So guys I am having new brand Dyanamo Voltage regulator in my spares stock. If anybody needs in future please let me know.
I am posting few pictures.

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Originally Posted by Fiat&Me

Hi Behram Sir and Team-bhp Fiatians,
I have searched almost more than 20 shops in Hyd/Sbad. Since Dynamo system was replaced by alternator by PAL around 1992(I think 1st time in S1) , this Voltage regulator is almost obsolete. In every shop only local make" BALAK" is available. Only in one shop I could get Autolek regulator which i thought is of good quality and purchased at Rs 380/-. After replacing the unit in the car, still problem persists. i.e. even after racing engine, Battery lamp is glowing. Electrician tried to adjust the plates of three points but everything in vain. His opinion is Dynamo is not supplying full current so needs to be serviced again. ( Since I don't know much about the car electrical system, I am doubtful that just to get some additional work and money he is forcing me to go for alternator). Already in life time of 25 yrs I have replaced carbon plates once , I am thinking to convert to alternator based system.
Tomorrow I'll purchase SA-15 model (Around Rs. 3100/-) and give it to electrician. Already given some amount to buy mounting bracket and belt. So total conversion cost will be around Rs 3800/- to 4000/-.So guys I am having new brand Dyanamo Voltage regulator in my spares stock. If anybody needs in future please let me know.
I am posting few pictures.

Dear Fiat and Me - I told you but you chose to learn the hard way! Anyways, the money is well spent since you learnt. Please use the cast bracket as I have recommended, market bracket will not work, the alternator will remain skewed and will create a problem for the water pump as well. You will need to use a slightly longer belt with the alternator installation. This belt is from the old Matador.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[CrackedHead]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Fiat and Me - I told you but you chose to learn the hard way! Anyways, the money is well spent since you learnt. Please use the cast bracket as I have recommended, market bracket will not work, the alternator will remain skewed and will create a problem for the water pump as well. You will need to use a slightly longer belt with the alternator installation. This belt is from the old Matador.

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

I did this conversion earlier this year and can see that the alternator is a little skewed. How can one differentiate between the "cast bracket" and the "market bracket". Could you please share the details.

I got my bracket off a car that had been scraped.