[ringoism]

Originally Posted by Tjax

Great collection Eric. Were any of these picked up in India? Could you throw some light on where and how you go about searching for these in India? Also if you do so online how do you go about it? I am just starting to get into vintage watches and would love to hear from you about how you go about it. Thanks in advance.

Will PM you with more info, but for the benefit of all will say these were ALL found in India, where I figure the number of collectors (and demand) will continue to increase as the merits and characteristics of mechanical watches, and levels of disposable income / nostalgia / hobbyist interest increase. I bought my first ones over 15 years ago, and over the past decade have seen a big change, from a time when I could find pristine original Seiko/Citizen/Ricoh automatics for Rs200, till now when ten (occasionally even twenty) times that amount might be considered reasonable for a nice original, depending on size/condition/style/rarity/customer's whims. In a number of metros in all regions, there are networks of people doing business refurbing these old pieces (nowadays often with outlandish dial designs done up on a digital printer somewhere) and selling/exporting them surprisingly cheap on eBay. I suppose the supply of nice originals is going to start drying up eventually, though a billion people is no small number, and all sorts of watches have been out there for a very long time, and very little ever gets dumped in the dustbin...

Interesting that HMT is again becoming operative and ramping up production, and I wonder what it will do for values of their vintage pieces, whether it will serve to increase value / interest, or whether people will figure it's worth paying a bit more and buying new. I suppose both scenarios are simultaneously possible, if it turns out anything like Seiko and their "Recraft" line.... but what the response / effect will be in the subcontinent should be interesting to follow.

As an added note, would like to suggest that watchmaking might be a very reasonable career path to pursue in the coming days. In my observation, all the old-timers who used to work on them before the "Quartz Revolution" are retiring / dying off, and as the skilled trades were always considered a bit low-status by most in society, practically none of their children have gone into this traditionally generational trade. All at the same time that - for the first time in a couple decades - larger numbers of people are starting to buy mechanical watches again - low/mid/high-end.

I figure that eventually people are going to tire of these disposable Rs150, horrible quality Chinese fashion-watches and knock-offs, and will start to value decent timepieces again... the type that can get you easily 15-20 years of service; even a low/midrange Seiko is good enough to be handed down to ones' children! I went through this whole cycle myself, in fact...

-Eric

[saket77]

My Titan Edge watch was consuming too much of battery since an year or so. Last battery went kaput in just 1.5 months! There was also a feeling of higher drag of the mechanism when operating the crown to set the time. Probably the lubrication had dried up.

Considering that the watch was ticking since last 12 years, I thought it would be good to shower some TLC. So, gave it last week to Titan auth. service center and asked for full clean and service. Received it today and with a bill of Rs. 836/- including change of battery. Also, the stator was changed. I believe that's the rotor(?)

Sharing some pictures. I love this watch among others in my collection because its dimensions are perfect for my smallish wrist.

[ringoism]

Originally Posted by saket77

Considering that the watch was ticking since last 12 years, I thought it would be good to shower some TLC. So, gave it last week to Titan auth. service center and asked for full clean and service. Received it today and with a bill of Rs. 836/- including change of battery. Also, the stator was changed. I believe that's the rotor(?)

These super-thin watches are actually great - For years I wore a very similar Seiko my mom had gifted me. So light/thin as to be super-comfortable, they also pretty much never get snagged on anything and take very few hits besides; Sensible and good-looking, and Titan is a solid brand.

Stator probably means the coil. Rotors are for automatics!

-Eric

[sukiwa]

Originally Posted by saket77

My Titan Edge watch was consuming too much of battery since an year or so.

How long does battery last on Titan Edge watches? A relative had told me it doesn't last more than 1.5 years on his May 2017 watch, battery changed twice so far and had to pay more than Rs. 300 each time.

[saket77]

Originally Posted by sukiwa

How long does battery last on Titan Edge watches? A relative had told me it doesn't last more than 1.5 years on his May 2017 watch, battery changed twice so far and had to pay more than Rs. 300 each time.

He is right. The battery life for Edge is rated between 1-1.5 years. The cost of battery at Titan is Rs. 150/- (as you can see in the invoice posted above) and they charge additional around Rs 180/- just for the change which is simply not justified. The ultra thin battery-SR712SW (Maxell and Seiko) is available in open market for around Rs. 120/- which can be changed at any watchmaker.

Another quick fact: The watch ticks once in 20 seconds!

[sridhu]

Folks

I am thinking of buying a new watch around ₹ 3-5 lakhs

What would be your pick?

I want automatic, chronograph or some other interesting complication, < 40mm width.

I am thinking of the Omega Speedmaster or Seamaster with the 3330 movement. Or a Rolex or Grand Seiko. Cant find a Speedmaster Panda face anywhere.

What options do I have?

Will be buying in Bangalore. Can buy in the US if the travel situation clears up

Thanks

[RedStallion]

Originally Posted by sridhu

Folks

I am thinking of buying a new watch around ₹ 3-5 lakhs

What would be your pick?

Hello sridhu,

Wishing you best for your watch hunt!

I would look for Grand Seiko SBGH267 or similar models in that brand. The dial texture is awesome with blue colour. Also, the mechanism is 9S85 high beat with 55 hours of power reserve.

In Rolex, I would go for Datejust with fluted bezel. It looks awesome in real life and it has the brand tag which is major factor. If you can increase the budget, Hulk & Pepsi Diver's watches are beautiful timepieces.

You can also check Tudor watches in this range. There are many decent options from them.

However, if you are fixed on chronograph watches then Rolex SS Daytona is the best. It will be hard to find but it is proven timepiece. It will give you some return on resale, too. (Price for this model is nearly 9 lacs for Oyster Steel)

Hope it helps!

Cheers!

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by sridhu

Folks

I am thinking of buying a new watch around ₹ 3-5 lakhs

What would be your pick?

I want automatic, chronograph or some other interesting complication, < 40mm width.

I am thinking of the Omega Speedmaster or Seamaster with the 3330 movement. Or a Rolex or Grand Seiko. Cant find a Speedmaster Panda face anywhere.

What options do I have?

Will be buying in Bangalore. Can buy in the US if the travel situation clears up

Thanks

Rolex are expensive, so are higher end Omegas. I have been a fan of Automatic watches since 1970 and have had a plethora of Seiko5, Citizen, Tissot and Rolex. All these watches require periodic maintenance every 5 years and the costs vary from 3K for Seiko all the way to 60K for Rolex. So keep that in mind. I am now on Solar Powered watches which have the best of both the worlds - accuracy and battery free.

Another problem is that these watches a heavy, and if you wear them 24x7 as I do, then you may find it tiring. I suggest that you consider dress watches from the extensive range of Swatch brands.

The economy being what it is you can easily negotiate a 30% to 40% discount if you are persistent. Just visit a few sites to get a ball park figure, and then do a round of a few brick & mortar stores. Once you show your interest in 3L-5L bracket, they will be after you till you get a sweet deal.

[sridhu]

Originally Posted by Aroy

Rolex are expensive, so are higher end Omegas. ...

Dear Aroy

Thank you for your response.

I own quite a few reasonably priced watches (Citizens, Bulova, Seikos, Tissots, Swatch etc). Some of them are automatic. Quite a few of them are in or above the band you suggest. Like you, I wear a watch 24x7!

This time, I wanted something more special. Something that can be an heirloom.

Hence that price band.

What discounts can I expect in Bangalore for Omega & Rolex? Seriously thinking between Omega Moonwatch 1891 movement & Rolex Datejust or Explorer.

[arindambasu13]

Originally Posted by sridhu

Folks

What options do I have?

Will be buying in Bangalore. Can buy in the US if the travel situation clears up

Thanks

Couple of good options that you can consider:

Tudor Black Bay 58. One of the hottest watches in the market today, and with good reason. Fantastic alternative to the insanely overpriced Submariner. Unfortunately, India does not have a sales channel for this and your best bet is to buy in the USA. Be prepared for wait times of a few months. I have been lusting after this watch for months, and will pick it up some day when budget permits. Its around 4000 USD currently, roughly INR 3 lakhs

Grand Seiko - lots of models to choose from in this budget. Superb value for money, and my personal choice would be the GS Snowflake. It is 41 mm though, but Seiko are masters when it comes to providing great fit for smaller wrists. This watch is a complete work of art, with blindingly good craftsmanship and quality, and highly respected by watch enthusiasts the world over.

As for Rolex, you will get mostly the Oyster Perpetual series in your budget, if I am not wrong. The 39 Explorer I is a great choice in this range, but I doubt there is any availability in Bangalore.

Happy hunting, Let us know what you picked up. I'd be very interested to know what kind of discounts are being offered in Bangalore currently.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by sridhu

Dear Aroy

Thank you for your response.

I own quite a few reasonably priced watches (Citizens, Bulova, Seikos, Tissots, Swatch etc). Some of them are automatic. Quite a few of them are in or above the band you suggest. Like you, I wear a watch 24x7!

This time, I wanted something more special. Something that can be an heirloom.

Hence that price band.

What discounts can I expect in Bangalore for Omega & Rolex? Seriously thinking between Omega Moonwatch 1891 movement & Rolex Datejust or Explorer.

My experience with Rolex (as also reflected in the International community) is that the are not as rugged as they used to be. They are somehow designed with planned obsolescence and every service a lot of parts are changed. So they are definitely not "Heirloom" quality.

If you want to have a watch that lasts a century, try Patek Phillipe or Cartier. These are guaranteed for life though their maintenance is quite expensive.

Be cautious of complicated movements. Not only they cost a bomb, but their service goes beyond a lac.

I suggest you evaluate Longines mechanical dress watches. They are elegant long lasting and easily serviced by the Swatch service centres. Excepting higher end watches which use hand finished movements, most Swatch watches are based on ETA movement.
https://www.swatchgroup.com/en/brands-companies

[arindambasu13]

Originally Posted by RedStallion

In Rolex, I would go for Datejust with fluted bezel. It looks awesome in real life and it has the brand tag which is major factor. If you can increase the budget, Hulk & Pepsi Diver's watches are beautiful timepieces.


However, if you are fixed on chronograph watches then Rolex SS Daytona is the best.

The watches that you have mentioned are far removed from the INR 3-5 price bracket that was mentioned. More importantly, they are next to impossible to obtain for a buyer without a track record and history with an authorized dealer. Especially in India. The Pepsi GMT (not a diver technically) and Daytona are basically unicorns for most buyers, as is the Hulk - more or less unattainable (sky high prices and extremely limited availability) unless you are really, really blessed with good luck.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by arindambasu13

The watches that you have mentioned are far removed from the INR 3-5 price bracket that was mentioned. More importantly, they are next to impossible to obtain for a buyer without a track record and history with an authorized dealer. Especially in India. The Pepsi GMT (not a diver technically) and Daytona are basically unicorns for most buyers, as is the Hulk - more or less unattainable (sky high prices and extremely limited availability) unless you are really, really blessed with good luck.

Watches are available in shops easily. The only problem with high end watches is the mode of payment. I doubt that any showroom will accept 3L+ in cash, it is card and net transfer mostly.

To get an idea of the collection, availability and prices you can browse the Ethos site. They are authorised sellers for many high end brands, both online and off-line with showrooms in all metros.
https://www.ethoswatches.com/

Desist from buying outside India. The prices may be higher, unless there is a genuine sale and customs may charge duty if they catch you.

[arindambasu13]

Originally Posted by Aroy

Watches are available in shops easily.
To get an idea of the collection, availability and prices you can browse the Ethos site. They are authorised sellers for many high end brands, both online and off-line with showrooms in all metros.

I have been enquiring about the Explorer with Ethos Bangalore for several months now. They have clearly indicated each time that they do not have any stock and "will let me know" when a piece are available. World over, Rolex steel sports models (Submariner, Explorer, GMTs, Daytona etc) are in huge demand and the common phenomenon that I have heard about is that unless you have a purchasing history with an AD, it is very difficult, as a first time buyer, to procure any of these models, even if you have the ready cash to do so. I would be very surprised if the situation in India is different.

While the Ethos website does show it to be a Rolex AD for India, in my experience and basis my enquiries with Ethos, the situation regarding stocks of popular models is very different from what is shown on the website. Perhaps Mumbai and Delhi outlets are different? What is your experience on this issue? I am specifically referring to Rolex steel sports models like the ones mentioned above.

You also mentioned that the build quality is not all what it is made out to be. Quite surprised to hear that as well, since I was always under the impression that Rolex build quality, especially for the sports models, is pretty rugged and long lasting. I have not handled one though, so my first-hand experience is restricted.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by arindambasu13

......
You also mentioned that the build quality is not all what it is made out to be. Quite surprised to hear that as well, since I was always under the impression that Rolex build quality, especially for the sports models, is pretty rugged and long lasting. I have not handled one though, so my first-hand experience is restricted.

My Rolex wore out after 8 years. The quoted repair bill of 1L+ included most of the gears and the rotor. The saving grace was that I sold it two years ago, for 10K less than I had bought it for in as-is condition.

I later did a search and found that it was a problem with Rolex manufactured in the last 15 years. You need to service them every three (and now 5) years at around US$1,000/ equivalent. They change quite a few parts hence the cost.

Material science has advanced, but many manufacturers are no longer building to last a life time. Service and replacement is a major income stream so planned obsolescence is highly remunerative.

My cousins have inherited Omega and Patek Philippe which after nearly 80 years are still going strong. So are thirty year old Rolex, but current generation are no where in that class.

I guess that if it is to be a once-in-a-lifetime purchase the price charged would be much higher to offset non existent replacement costs.

That is why I now prefer inexpensive quartz watches which last as long and do not carry the baggage of massive service bills. For example my Casio day-date 10Bar watch cost less than Rs.1,000/. The strap was replaces for Rs.200, and after 3 years the battery for less than Rs.100. I have now bought a Casio Edifice Solar. The maintenance of most mechanical watches are more than the cost of Edifice (<10K), so I can literally keep buying a new watch for less than the cost of routine maintenance.

In short for daily wear get a rugged quartz and for special occasions an old fashioned dress watch.