[aks_karthik]

Originally Posted by S_U_N

I have a Formula 1 Wash and Wax bottle (suitable for 100 washes as per the instructions).
I tried using this yesterday. The procedure on the bottle is not very clear to me and probably the results could be better if I learn to use it the right way.
The instructions indicate that I need to add one squeeze worth of liquid in a gallon of water and then rinse and wash and then dry.
Once you add water to the liquid, the whole bucket is filled with lather - just like the way washing powder would turn into lather.

What I have done so far is to use a sponge and apply it over one part of the car. Then I have used another damp cloth to get rid of the soap solution which is now on the car (I can even see some soap bubbles at a few places. Then finally I have used another cloth to wipe dry.

Is it right to get rid of this soap solution from the car exterior? Or am I wiping off the wax in this process?

you have to use water to get rid of the solution.
It's very much same as we use Shampoo while taking a bath

Dusting -> Wetting with Plain Water -> applying Shampoo -> cleaning with Plain water -> Drying with Chamois.

[S_U_N]

Thanks. That is precisely what I did. I somehow did not feel it was right to leave that soapy solution on the car body.

However I have to add that since I have to park under a tree, I cannot avoid tree sap and bird poo.
I cannot think of any other way to clean up the dried sap and poo without using water + my cleaning sponge + some rubbing.


Another observation is that there are tiny dust particles on most of my windshield and ORVM. I can feel those when I pour water and try to roll my hand over the glass area.
Generally, I am able to remove most of those by pouring generous amounts of water and using my fingers though not applying any pressure. My windshield is brand new and I would not like to get it damaged/ scratched.
Any good products which are easily available in major cities for cleaning glass?
BTW: I am planning to buy ONR soon if I find it somewhere.

[Thad E Ginathom]

Originally Posted by sohail99

If its frank rust, you can try a rust converter spray, usually available at hw shops ...

Do you have any name or brand for this?

Both for car and for various bits of steel around the house, I have been looking for something like this for years, but I don't know what to ask for, and haven't managed to make my need intelligible in a hardware shop. As my wife has no experience of such a product, I can't even expect her to ask for the right thing in Tamil --- although she is my key to most things.

[iSpoke]

Originally Posted by S_U_N

Another observation is that there are tiny dust particles on most of my windshield and ORVM. I can feel those when I pour water and try to roll my hand over the glass area.

BTW: I am planning to buy ONR soon if I find it somewhere.

Are you sure about the tiny dust? It could be insect dropping like flies and other insects on tree, that tend to cling on even smoother surface. I just gave a concentrated shampoo treatment to such areas on body (though not windshield) this Sunday only. I noticed that one has to make sure that the soapy water is thoroughly cleaned from the black fiber areas immediately below windshield, else it will dull the blackness on drying.

Please let me know if you find a reliable place to get the ONR, actually I too am zeroing on this product.

[S_U_N]

Hey @iSpoke. I don't know what it could be, but I can feel tiny particles on the windshield.
Products - Auto-Mall.in
ONR cost is Rs. 500 for the small bottle (8 Oz).
The price in US is $7 without shipping (approx. Rs. 350)

[sohail99]

^You need to clay the windshield to get rid of those particles that make the windshield feel gritty!

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

Do you have any name or brand for this?

Both for car and for various bits of steel around the house, I have been looking for something like this for years, but I don't know what to ask for, and haven't managed to make my need intelligible in a hardware shop. As my wife has no experience of such a product, I can't even expect her to ask for the right thing in Tamil --- although she is my key to most things.

Brand names - POR15, or RustOleum anti rust primer

You just might find them at a hardware store or checkout the place where the bodyshop guys get their paint and supplies from! They definitely have rust strippers and rust primers!

This thread might also help - http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorb...ns-anyone.html

[Mortis]

Oh and what is this rust converter spray ? I guess you arent talking about WD 40 so what brand is it ?

[BusyBee]

Originally Posted by Mortis

Oh and what is this rust converter spray ? I guess you arent talking about WD 40 so what brand is it ?

Rust converters work by converting oxides of iron to phosphates of iron. Phosphoric acid is the base of the converters and sulphuric acid is another active ingredient.

WD 40 is a highly penetrating solvent. It protects iron objects by this feature of penetrating and covering the metal - as long as it is covered with WD40.

[k_ajay]

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

Do you have any name or brand for this?

You can also try WD 40 [but since this is a solvent too, discretion is required on it's usage, if used on paint].

Originally Posted by S_U_N

However I have to add that since I have to park under a tree, I cannot avoid tree sap and bird poo.

Just curious. What stops you from buying a good car cover? It's far better than chasing products which is required to correct the chemical damages [bird poop, tree sap, etc].. Think about it..


Cheers,
aK

[adimicra]

sohial, quadro, ajay and all experts, can someoone please answer my last question post# 4931?

[sohail99]

If its like a rust spot in the paint which you cant feel! Then most probably its embedded rail dust!

Basically kinda like a metal filling embedded in the clearcoat!! (This can happen on panels around the brake disc area or if your car is exposed to rail dust(standing close to a railway line etc. or some serious industrial fallout))

These generally get into the clear when they're hot(kinda like how brake dust burns its way through the paint on the alloys)

Claying 'shaves' off the above surface component of these, but the thing inside is still there!

To completely remove them you have to clay aggressively or use a 'aggressive' clay bar!!

Remember, when you clay aggressively, you risk marring the paint, so minimize that by using a little more QD(ONR or megs etc.)

[nirmaljusdoit]

Originally Posted by adimicra

sohial, quadro, ajay and all experts, can someoone please answer my last question post# 4931?

The 1st pic is not so clear, however the 2nd one looks like a small nick from maybe a two wheeler rubber/tyre ?

Have you tried a rubbing compound like Meguiars Ultimate compound ? It should help !

[BusyBee]

Originally Posted by nirmaljusdoit

The 1st pic is not so clear, however the 2nd one looks like a small nick from maybe a two wheeler rubber/tyre ?

Have you tried a rubbing compound like Meguiars Ultimate compound ? It should help !

Quite right including the solution. Just complete it with a sealant & wax. It is difficult to take a clear picture of these minor blemishes because the camera starts 'hunting' for a focal point which is not easy in a large slab of white (or solid colour)

[k_ajay]

Adimicra,

Like Sohail has said, try an aggressive clay for the contamination on your 1st pic. It looks like a below surface defect, from what you say. The pic is not very clear, to add..

For the 2nd pic, it sure looks like what Nirmal has said. A paint transfer or a nick from a rubber tyre. Rubbing compound [any god brand] should be able to remove it [I have done this successfully on some small nicks such as the one in your pic 2].


BusyBee: You can take a clear picture of these spots too. This is where you should use manual focus. On Auto focus, the camera 'Will' be hunting in full white or black.
Keeping spot metering mode on, try focusing the camera on auto to a normal area [which is not entirely white or black] and you will get a focus lock. Take the apeture reading and shutter speed reading and note them down. Make sure the area you are choosing to lock your focus reading is not too poorly light or not too brightly lit.

Now, feed these readings on manual mode, remain on spot metering and click. I'm sure if done right, you can capture the photo of the area you want to show, will be clear and in focus.


Cheers,
aK

[sohail99]

^Or stick a small part of the clay adjacent to the paint surface defect you want a pic of, and focus on that instead while taking a pic!

Usually works great that way!