[sgiitk]

Originally Posted by sixthsense

I want to change the back ones as well.

The rear last for at least four times the distance. Only point is at the five to six year mark they may de-laminate. This is based on my experience with drums, where the glue fails at this point.

[sixthsense]

Originally Posted by sgiitk

The rear last for at least four times the distance. Only point is at the five to six year mark they may de-laminate. This is based on my experience with drums, where the glue fails at this point.

Maybe they aged as you said above. Anyway as i'm taking her to the highway next week, i got the rear replaced by HASS and costed my 7k for the rear break pads. I manually inspected the old ones and they were less than half the thickness of the new ones, so i guess they were really worn out.

And from the day one i did not felt very confident about the braking. After the new pads, i certainly noticed the change and the braking i can say is optimum now.

[laluks]

Originally Posted by laluks

Now that I have completed 3000KMs with the new pads, Initial 1000KMS in city driving and the rest 2000KM on highways, at some good speeds and related braking needs, with drives of 700+ KMs in a stretch, twice, the results can be shared. These conditions have taken the tests on the pads as required in almost all possible scenarios that the pads are supposed to work.

The results are positive, and I see no major differences between the OEM pads and the ones I experimented as on date.

But there are a few observations

1. During Installation, the pads locking edges had to be filed a little for easy sliding for the pads placement
2. The discs are slightly hotter than before, attribute that to the ceramic compound and more friction considering the OEM pads were metallic type.
3. The wear of the pads seems at this point similar to the OEM pads, but a lot of brake dust is generated pointing that the pads are wearing more in relation to the discs.


About the pads,

The pads were made by a company called TNG. Had read some reviews with mixed opinions before installation. So idea was to experiment in city before concluding that they could be used in high speed drives on the highways. The city experiments for 1000Kms over a span of 1 month gave me enough confidence to take it to highway drives.

The front pads MRP was Rs 1050, finally obtained for Rs 900.

Result - I am happy with the performance till now. The pad change was a complete DIY.


Note: Let us not get into debates on costs vs safety, as enough precautions and experiments/trials and experience were considered before this post

Originally Posted by laluks

11000 KM update, the pads are holding up well. I removed them for cleaning today. It has no breakages / chipping as I feared. The discs are also smooth, so all in all does its job well.

I am happy with the performance the last 11000 Kms. Looks like it will do twice as much at this point - a 30K+ is the expectation at this stage.

I changed the rear too with TNG today. The rear pads were a direct fit. No filing was necessary. Let us see how it fares. I will update the results.

Completed 15K with TNG front pads.

There was a spirited run of 2500Kms thrown in which took a toll on my Yoko dbs.

Good for another 5K, just 15K done till date


It seems it took a toll on the TNG front pads as well. Earlier going by the wear was expecting something like 30K, but the spirited drive has shaven of almost all of what was remaining !!

Today took some time to open the brake setup and check the pads.

New ones normally have some 11 mm of braking material, after wearing of 8mm it should be replaced




ON measuring TNG pads which have done 15K on date,

Front Right pads shows 3mm remaining




Front Left pads shows 2mm remaining




Comparison of 15K done TNG with new pads






You can push these pads, on normal run may be another 1K, but decided to change them, why risk?

Observation:
1. No chipping of brake material
2. Wearing out seems to be very fast, more than expected on spirited runs.
3. If used only for regular city drives probably we can expect 20K
4. At a cost of 900 INR, TNG did its job pretty well, and a life of 15 to 20K is decent.
5. No surprise or panic situation in the entire duration of 15K.

[srsriharsha]

@laluks what did you replace it with ? Did you change it with TNG again?

[laluks]

Originally Posted by srsriharsha

@laluks what did you replace it with ? Did you change it with TNG again?

The fronts are replaced with WULF














WULF looks better than TNG, costs around 1100 INR

The rears are TNG, changed 4K Kms before










After 4000Kms its down by 1mm, 2500Km of spirited drive included

[laluks]

DIY guide for replacing Civic's brake pads.

Disclaimer : Its strictly for those who wants to get their hands dirty, those who like to know what is done and for those who like experimenting. A friendly neighborhood garage would replace both the front and rear pads and necessary cleaning and greasing for something like INR 400.



Today I had some free time and thought of checking Civvy's front brake pads, and change if needed. Replacing front pads took less than an hour.

Please ignore the muddy look of the under body, just yesterday waded through Bangalore rivers (read roads).

Tools you will need, Spanner, Ring Spanner, C Clamp and File


These guys are critical


Check the size, 19 and 14


Remove the wheel and expose the brake assembly


You'll have to open these, Use Ring Spanner outside while keeping Spanner inside to block them from rotating


First open the bottom one and pull the cover upwards exposing the pads. Normally only this is required if you want to just clean the pads and put back.


This is the guy which pushes the pads when you apply brakes! This guy comes out based on the wear of the pads to keep them nearer to the discs. In this case it has almost come out full.


Pull out the pads


Simple isn't it?


If you want to clean, remove the top nut too and get the cover free


continued...

[laluks]

DIY guide for replacing Civic's brake pads, continued.

If you have seen some item in your service bill mentioning caliper pin greasing, then this is what happened

Pull out the caliper pins


Pull out the rubber bush also to clean


This is what you opened with Ring Spanner outside and Spanner inside (Pic for easy understanding)


Don't lose this guy


Clean these caliper pin holes with cloth


Add rustolene and clean if there is rusting, else clothe is just fine


Clean the caliper pins with a cloth


Clean the rubber bushes also


You'll need grease


Caliper Pin greased


continued...

[laluks]

DIY guide for replacing Civic's brake pads, continued.

Put the clean rubber bushes back


Push in the greased caliper pin


Put the cover back


Place the new brake pads


New pads nicely seated


To close the cover, this guy has to be pushed in completely, since the earlier pad was worn out this fellow came out. Now since we are putting in a new pad he must go in completely


How do you push this guy in?


Use C Clamp and old pad to push this guy inside


Before pushing in, open the Brake fluid tank cover


It's easy with the C Clamp


Completely pushed in


Close up


The brake fluid level will rise due to this, and opening the tank can let it flow out if required, also will not create back pressure making it hard to push in.


This was the situation after pushing in while changing the other side pads


It's now done for this side, tighten this nut. Pad change over


continued...

[laluks]

DIY guide for replacing Civic's brake pads, continued.

This is where the pads have to slide in






Sometimes these aftermarket pads wont fit in, Use the file to shave off a bit at the edges to get it in these slots. Use a bit of molly grease for easy movement.


After filing the pads nicely slots in








I also took this time to measure the thickness of the discs, seems good to go for some more time. The front rotors were changed some 65K Kms before. My next change would be a brembo rotor which gives a visual indication of wear.

[srsriharsha]

Thanks for the detailed instructions. Please post review of the wulf pads as you use them

[sixthsense]

Attached are the pics for the brake pads that I got changed with its box.

[laluks]

Originally Posted by sgiitk

The rear last for at least four times the distance. Only point is at the five to six year mark they may de-laminate. This is based on my experience with drums, where the glue fails at this point.

My experience with Civic Brake pads is as follows


Stock Front pads - 55K
Stock Rear Pads - 60K

First Change
Front OEM Pads - 45K (Costed 11k, both rotors (~5K) and pads(~6K) were changed)
Rear OEM Pads - 51K (Costed 6K for pads)

Second Change
Front TNG Pads - 15K (Costed 900 for the TNG pads , Replaced with WULF )
Rear TNG pads - yet to replace (Costed 1100 for the TNG pads)


Front Pads change Odo readings - 55K - 100K - 115K
Rear Pads Odo readings - 60K - 111K - continuing


On a funny note, Civic tires also seems to be of a similar pattern

Stock Good Year NCT 5 - 60K
First Change Good Year Excellence - 40K
Second Change Yoko dbs - Seems 20K is the last I can push it, currently at 15K

[VineetG]

Originally Posted by sgiitk

The rear last for at least four times the distance. Only point is at the five to six year mark they may de-laminate. This is based on my experience with drums, where the glue fails at this point.

I don't think so. My front and rear pads for Civic needed to be changed at the same time. I saw the rear pads and they were worn past the wear indicator.

Rgds

[rr_zen]

I became a victim of an ignorant biker this morning on my way to work. This guy darted out of nowhere from the opposite side without caring to look out for any vehicles and hit my front bumper. Heard a loud scratching noise and knew the bumper was damaged but never expected it to be so much. Gave him a mouthful and proceeded to office. Only upon reaching office did I notice the damage was real bad. Took it to HASS who quoted 6.5 - 7k for repairing the existing one and 13.5 - 14k for a new one. Opted for a new one as the slot holding the screw was cut off and I was told a washer would be used instead and that it may not be 100% perfect. My first insurance claim on this car but had no choice.

[sgiitk]

@rr-zen; Do you not have a NCB to guard? I have a full NCB and 7500 excess, so will get very little joy if I were to claim.