[suzuki san]

Originally Posted by raunaqv471

Regarding the slush box, i can confirm that the civic doesn't have a brake lock mechanism like other automatic cars. You don't need to depress the brake to start the car .The brake only needs to be pressed to shift from P to R Or N or D etc. So no issues there.

Hi Raunak,

Thanks for the explanation. All noted.

I am taking the car to Honda first thing tomorrow morning for a thorough check up and scan.

Regarding the Auto Box :
Can you please tell me what should be displayed on the dashboard when I am driving the car in "S" mode and using the paddles.

Thanks a lot,
Regards,
SS

[sarathlal]

Originally Posted by suzuki san

Regarding the Auto Box :
Can you please tell me what should be displayed on the dashboard when I am driving the car in "S" mode and using the paddles.

The current gear position will be noted in the dashboard while using paddle shifters.
If using the paddles in 'D' mode, it will display 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 depending on which gear the car is in at that point of time. This will automatically disappear if the car changes its gear position.
If using the paddles in 'S' mode, it will display M1, M2, M3, M4, M5. In This mode, the M indicates you are in manual mode and hence the upshift will happen only if you upshift (or redline). Downshifts will be done automatically if the car senses chance of stalling

[raunaqv471]

Originally Posted by suzuki san

Hi Raunak,

Thanks for the explanation. All noted.

I am taking the car to Honda first thing tomorrow morning for a thorough check up and scan.

Regarding the Auto Box :
Can you please tell me what should be displayed on the dashboard when I am driving the car in "S" mode and using the paddles.

Thanks a lot,
Regards,
SS

In S mode if you drive without using the paddles then nothing is displayed The car just upshifts later by holding a.gear and downshifts sooner . If you pull any of the paddles it will show M1, M2 etc as Sarathlal mentioned.
Likewise even in D mode usually nothing is shown . If you tug at a paddle it will shift and show for eg 3 or 4 ie the gear you shifted to momentarily untill the computer takes overs in 5 seconds. Also to note that this autobox doesn't upshift while in manual mode. It will let you rev it to the redline and.hit the rev limiter which is a fun thing. When you get the car scanned using the Obd2 scanner , it will tell you whether the automatic transmission is ok or not so you should be good that way regarding the electronics assuming there are no fault codes.

Good luck

[suzuki san]

Hi Raunaq471, Sarathlal, Masterprocrasti & Sumeethaldankar,

Once again, thanks for all your valuable inputs.

I took the car to Honda ASS this morning along with the Owner.

This is what they found :

1. 2 x Front shock absorbers need replacing - 20K.
2. 2 x Front tie rods need replacing - 10K
3. Instrument cluster needs replacing - 16K
4. Main Engine mount (1) needs replacing - 10K
5. Rear left wheel bearing and hub needs replacing - 12K
6. Full Service with all fluids and filters replaced - 15K
7. Stereo replacement - 15K
8. Transfer & Fitness / Green Tax for 5 years - 15K
9. Minor rust touch up underbody and body polishing - 7K

Total comes to 1.20L.

Owner was present and after seeing and hearing all the faults has dropped his price to 75K but I think I should take a step back from this particular car. What do you guys think?

The last service record in a Honda ASS was in 2012 after which there has been no service in HASS. Just a few "General Repairs.

Also, when the Honda technicians connected their computer and OBD scanner, the computer / scanner was unable to get any readings leading the SA to say that it had probably been disconnected. They tried for about 30 to 40 minutes but finally gave up.
As a result, I could not get a proper scan done of the engine or AC or electricals or transmission. The computer worked fine on a City in the next bay...

Thanks once again for all your help.

Regards,
SS

[sarathlal]

Originally Posted by suzuki san

Owner was present and after seeing and hearing all the faults has dropped his price to 75K but I think I should take a step back from this particular car. What do you guys think?

I think you should let this one go. I remember you telling that the rear shocks might need a replacement as well. If thats the case, suspension replacement itself will be around 85K (Once they start with the shocks, there will be a set of other parts also that would need a change).
Better to invest that bit extra on a more well maintained car. Thats my humble opinion.

[raunaqv471]

Originally Posted by suzuki san

Hi Raunaq471, Sarathlal, Masterprocrasti & Sumeethaldankar,

Once again, thanks for all your valuable inputs.

I took the car to Honda ASS this morning along with the Owner..
Also, when the Honda technicians connected their computer and OBD scanner, the computer / scanner was unable to get any readings leading the SA to say that it had probably been disconnected. They tried for about 30 to 40 minutes but finally gave up.
As a result, I could not get a proper scan done of the engine or AC or electricals or transmission. The computer worked fine on a City in the next bay...

Thanks once again for all your help.

Regards,
SS

Car shouldn't have such major suspension issues at that mileage. Did they happen to verify whether the odometer was tampered? Also suspension work can be done outside way cheaper. The main sticking points here I'd say are that it hadn't been to Honda since 2012 and the OBD2 port doesn't work. Thats way too sketchy, not to mention the quote itself is astronomical along with the fitness certificate . Better to let this one slide, even though I know that can be hard since this machine can be tempting. Better to go for a better maintained example and thanks for sharing the details of the inspection. Much appreciated!

[sumeethaldankar]

Originally Posted by suzuki san

As a result, I could not get a proper scan done of the engine or AC or electricals or transmission. The computer worked fine on a City in the next bay...

Thanks once again for all your help.

Regards,
SS

Kindly let this one go. Look at other first owner only cars preferrably. The OBD not working is a bad sign. Again apart from electricals the suspension work can be carried out oustide at 50% less cost with near OEM like quality (Honda Civic Independence : CNG'd. EDIT: 1,13,000 km up and SOLD!). However let this one slide and look for other cars.

[skdking]

Hello friends,

I have a Honda Civic VMT (2007).

I need to take pencil impressions of the chassis No and engine No for getting the car transferred to another state.

Can someone pl tell me where are they, in a Civic?

Someone told me that the chassis No is beneath the front left seat, and to access it the carpet needs to be cut. True?

Thanks in advance.

[eccentric]

Advice needed!

Since my Civic has crossed 50,000 KMs and is in due for a suspension overhaul, Iam procuring a mix of OEM parts as well as aftermarket components (TRW) to address the required.

The area of concern is the lower control arm bushes. While I was able to acquire the OEM bushes, my FNG guy is insisting to replace the whole lower arm stating the re-assembly of the bushes may result in the twist of the lower arm ultimately leading to wheel alignment issues and uneven tyre wear in the long-run.

Experts, kindly pitch in your thoughts on the same. Thanks.

[Timothy]

Originally Posted by suzuki san

Hi Raunaq471, Sarathlal, Masterprocrasti & Sumeethaldankar,

Once again, thanks for all your valuable inputs.

I took the car to Honda ASS this morning along with the Owner.

This is what they found :

1. 2 x Front shock absorbers need replacing - 20K.
2. 2 x Front tie rods need replacing - 10K
3. Instrument cluster needs replacing - 16K
4. Main Engine mount (1) needs replacing - 10K
5. Rear left wheel bearing and hub needs replacing - 12K
6. Full Service with all fluids and filters replaced - 15K
7. Stereo replacement - 15K
8. Transfer & Fitness / Green Tax for 5 years - 15K
9. Minor rust touch up underbody and body polishing - 7K

Total comes to 1.20L.

Everything can be done with aftermarket parts, which are freely available, at a fraction of the cost. I just got the hydraulic and gear box mount changed on my 8th gen. MT Honda Civic with aftermarket sourced OEMs and they are working absolutely fine with a huge difference in the vibration levels.
For major jobs I get those done from Honda only, like for example I am getting the Clutch plate, pressure plate, flywheel, Slip cylinder & clutch Master cylinder changed for which they have given a quote of 45K including labour. They are organising the parts through the centralised parts centre and they will arrive by next week. Also all the periodic servicing I get done from Honda only.
The problems that have been listed in the car you are looking at are nothing major and Honda will highlight the minutest of things that one can live with easily. Honestly 75k for this car with the issues you have highlighted is an excellent price and you should go for it blindly, if you still can. Just the tyres alone that you are getting are worth close to half that price. Civic is not that expensive to maintain, you have to be sensible about it. Hope this helps. Cheers !

[CzechItaliaMoto]

Originally Posted by skdking

Hello friends,

I have a Honda Civic VMT (2007).

I need to take pencil impressions of the chassis No and engine No for getting the car transferred to another state.

Can someone pl tell me where are they, in a Civic?

Someone told me that the chassis No is beneath the front left seat, and to access it the carpet needs to be cut. True?

Thanks in advance.

There is an opening in the carpet under the passenger front seat which does not need any cutting, just get any floormats out of the way and you can get your pencil marking. Although, it is a bit difficult as I had to remain upside down in order to figure out what i was doing. The seat should preferably be pushed all the way back to make things easier.

[sumeethaldankar]

Originally Posted by eccentric

Advice needed!

Since my Civic has crossed 50,000 KMs and is in due for a suspension overhaul, Iam procuring a mix of OEM parts as well as aftermarket components (TRW) to address the required.

The area of concern is the lower control arm bushes. While I was able to acquire the OEM bushes, my FNG guy is insisting to replace the whole lower arm stating the re-assembly of the bushes may result in the twist of the lower arm ultimately leading to wheel alignment issues and uneven tyre wear in the long-run.

Experts, kindly pitch in your thoughts on the same. Thanks.

No expert here but talking from experience.

My old FNG was able to replace the lower arm bushes without twisting anything. There is some kind of machine needed to press them in place. Approx 40k kms later I replaced the after market bushes with Honda originals which cost a bomb. No lowers arms were harmed in the process and I continued using the factory ones till I sold the car. Your mechanic is probably lazy to get the bushes machine pressed as he may not have the needed instruments and will have to get it done elsewhere. Also you should consider another FNG if he is trying to con you which I think since he is asking you to replace the entire arm.

[eccentric]

Originally Posted by sumeethaldankar

No expert here but talking from experience.

No lowers arms were harmed in the process and I continued using the factory ones till I sold the car.

Thanks for the inputs, Sir. Yes, he informed that he doesn't have the tools and will have to take it to a nearby press shop for the concern. I'll go ahead with replacing the bushes alone and monitor the entire operation. Yes, he misleads at times but does the job of what he's been instructed to and also has the heart to listen and understand technical nuances. In fact the chap has agreed to purchase a torque wrench upon my constant push! IMHO, this bloke is miles ahead than the useless lazy lumps at Honda ASC of my area.

Also, I've asked him to face the brake discs in order to eliminate the steering vibrations at speeds above 120 KMH. The front left rotor is warped badly when compared with the right one. I'm just clueless on why such occurrence happens only on the LHS for both of my cars! Any pointers?

[jayanttalwar]

Originally Posted by eccentric

Also, I've asked him to face the brake discs in order to eliminate the steering vibrations at speeds above 120 KMH. The front left rotor is warped badly when compared with the right one. I'm just clueless on why such occurrence happens only on the LHS for both of my cars! Any pointers?

I would recommend you to change the rotors if they are old as facing multiple times is not good for braking

[eccentric]

Originally Posted by jayanttalwar

I would recommend you to change the rotors if they are old as facing multiple times is not good for braking

Noted, Sir. Since this is the first time, am confident it won't have a negative effect on braking. Nevertheless, I'll keep a check on whether the thickness/run-out of the rotors are within the specified limits for the facing operation.