[Akshay1234]

Originally Posted by shankar.balan

I wonder where in Bangalore I can get a steam clean done.

I'm sure at least one of the detailers offers it as a service.

[deepakvaid]

Originally Posted by abbey4u

Yoko Geolander. It's an HT tyre.

Hello Abbey4u, I am planning to change my stock Goodyear Excellence to Yoko Geolander AT/S. The size available is 215X65X16 instead of 215X60X16 which will increase wheel dia by about 22mm. Which size you got?. How'z your overall experience by Geolander especially on highways? Are these tyres are noisy? Thanks & Regards

[abbey4u]

Originally Posted by deepakvaid

Hello Abbey4u, I am planning to change my stock Goodyear Excellence to Yoko Geolander AT/S. The size available is 215X65X16 instead of 215X60X16 which will increase wheel dia by about 22mm. Which size you got?. How'z your overall experience by Geolander especially on highways? Are these tyres are noisy? Thanks & Regards

I used 215x60x16, it was an imported one. I would use the upsize with caution as i recently used the 215x65x16 with mrf wanderer and very last week i reverted to 215x60 size. the upsize may not have worked because of mrf brand. So you should confirm if the dealer is ready to take it back if you don't like the upsize. Wth that said, Yoko tyres are really good.

[Akshay1234]

Originally Posted by deepakvaid

Hello Abbey4u, I am planning to change my stock Goodyear Excellence to Yoko Geolander AT/S. The size available is 215X65X16 instead of 215X60X16 which will increase wheel dia by about 22mm. Which size you got?. How'z your overall experience by Geolander especially on highways? Are these tyres are noisy? Thanks & Regards

I would avoid Geolandars, simply because I've heard too many stories of sidewall cuts, some which have lead to fatalities. Call me cautious, but I would avoid.

I'm using 215/65 Michelin Latitude Tour HP on my Yeti and its taken whatever I've thrown at it with ease. The tyres are comfortable and silent, and help the low speed stiffness in the suspension to some extent.

[mailtosid]

Hi All,

Today when I started my SM in the morning on my way to work, The brake pedal felt quite hard after the engine was switched on. I tried pressing/depressing it multiple times and I could hear a hissing sound within the cabin coming from the brake area whenever the brakes were pressed. After some time with this exercise, the brake felt soft again and I could drive to work. I wanted to know if anyone else on this forum had experienced the same issue. My car is around 2.5 years old now and not sure if this is a servo issue. Kindly advise.

I will check the brakes later today to see if the issue recurs.

Thanks,
Sid

[abbey4u]

Sid. Did you face this again. I don't think anyone here faced this issue. Could it be low brake oil or something

[mailtosid]

Yup, the issue persists...taking it to the ASC tomorrow, he is suspecting it might be an brake pad issue, will update you once I am back tomorrow...

[mailtosid]

The technician told me that this is quite common on Yeti's though I don't remember having this earlier. I saw another Yeti at the ASC and it also had the same behavior. Can other yeti owners confirm if they face something similar like once the engine is switched on, the first time the brake is pressed, there is a sound like air being released?

[sidby]

Hi Pramod,

I must start by saying this is an excellent thread with lots and lots of information. You have really led the way for modifications.

I am undertaking the addition of a bluetooth module to my Jetta Comfortline which comes with the rcd 510. Thanks to all the information on team bhp, i have a fair idea of what needs to be done but i am a little worried about the coding. I wanted to ask you if you a a guide on VAS coding of the module? I will be installing the 9w2 module and I guess it shouldnt be all that different? Could you please share the guide and/or steps on coding of the bluetooth module.

Any help will be much appreciated. Thanks!

[mailtosid]

My OEM battery went dead yesterday after 2.5 years of usage. I tried jump starting the car, which it did, but after running it for 30 mins, the battery still did not get charged. I then replaced it with an Exide one, hopefully this lasts longer.

[abbey4u]

Is there any way one can diagnose battery condition. Periodic self check can avoid situation of battery going completely dead.

[Behemoth]

Originally Posted by abbey4u

Is there any way one can diagnose battery condition. Periodic self check can avoid situation of battery going completely dead.

The Yeti's battery typically lasts for not more than 30-36 months in Indian conditions. Mine also had conked off in 36 months. The OE battery is a Varta (Bosch) battery and even though it is good quality, the intense heat in India causes early battery failure.
Battery condition testing requires a few things:
1) Electrolyte level check (this can be done with a small floating indicator) and if electrolyte level is less, it can be topped up with Distilled water)
2) Specific gravity test for electrolyte : This requires a special equipment shaped like a pipette, which shows the density of the acid-water mix in the battery
3) Bad cell check. A car battery has a series of cells, which together generate the overall voltage of 12 V (typically 12.4-13.5V for a healthy battery. When one of the cells goes bad, the voltage in charged condition will fall by at least 2 Volts, you will get a voltage in the range of 10.5-11.5 Volts. This bad cell will not charge properly and will also not take load.

Generally, to test if your car battery is fine, it should be able to take an engine start and cranking, even with the headlights on. If you see your battery struggling to start the engine when the headlights are on, your battery is going weak and will probably fail quickly and it is time for you to replace the battery.

Regards,
Behemoth

[pramods]

Originally Posted by sidby

Hi Pramod,



I must start by saying this is an excellent thread with lots and lots of information. You have really led the way for modifications.



I am undertaking the addition of a bluetooth module .......

I currently don't have any guide but I believe you can get detailed instructions on web specifically on vwvortex and on tdi forum, else let me see if I have any detailed instruction, I may have put the required changes in some of the previous post in this thread too.

Related to battery my OEM battery still looks good and am nearing 4th year hope it continue like that...

-Pramod

[adisag]

Had a bit of a scare with my Yeti this afternoon -
I started the car after it had been standing on a slight incline, handbrake up and in neutral, for a couple of hours - the car refused to engage into any gear, I restarted the engine and tried again, but no luck. Turned off the car and struggled a bit with the gear box and somehow managed to engage first gear (while the car was off) started the car (with the clutch fully depressed) and the car lunged forward and stalled, did this 2-3 times, with similar results.
I was heading into a state of panic, but decided to give it one more shot, struggled to get the gear back into neutral and started the car in neutral. Pumped the clutch a couple of times and tried reverse gear, it was sticky, but it slotted in - reversed a few metres and tried first, slotted in just fine. Driven about 20 km since, and the problem seems to have sorted itself out completely.

Not sure what the issue might have been - I'm guessing a stuck actuator or something similar - will get it checked tomorrow just to make sure there is no larger issue building up.

[ajaypjayaraj]

Originally Posted by adisag

Had a bit of a scare with my Yeti this afternoon -
I started the car after it had been standing on a slight incline, handbrake up and in neutral, for a couple of hours - the car refused to engage into any gear, I restarted the engine and tried again, but no luck. Turned off the car and struggled a bit with the gear box and somehow managed to engage first gear (while the car was off) started the car (with the clutch fully depressed) and the car lunged forward and stalled, did this 2-3 times, with similar results.
I was heading into a state of panic, but decided to give it one more shot, struggled to get the gear back into neutral and started the car in neutral. Pumped the clutch a couple of times and tried reverse gear, it was sticky, but it slotted in - reversed a few metres and tried first, slotted in just fine. Driven about 20 km since, and the problem seems to have sorted itself out completely.

Not sure what the issue might have been - I'm guessing a stuck actuator or something similar - will get it checked tomorrow just to make sure there is no larger issue building up.

Could it be a clutch issue? How many kms have your Yeti done so far?