[desertfox]

Very very useful indeed when driving without the AC.

And it is there in the THAR DI already also in MM550a 540s

[manveet]

Originally Posted by manveet

Ok, so I am planning a very interesting mod, not sure if it has been implemented on the Thar before.

Experts, please advise if this is technically feasible. And recommended? Any drawbacks?

Attachment 1130822

Originally Posted by desertfox

Very very useful indeed when driving without the AC.

And it is there in the THAR DI already also in MM550a 540s

The image is from the Thar Di Product Spec sheet itself. But will it be a direct fitment onto to the Thar is what I am wondering.

In other words, is the front frame the same in the Thar Di and CRDe?

[darxide]

hi love what youve done with your thar-great job!! i plan to change the steering in '09 scorpio too. please tell me of any issues you had while installing the hub and steering. as in do the indicators work, and is a 14" diameter steering make a big difference-(original steering is 15"). etc work fine etc..

Originally Posted by manveet

Interiors

Attachment 1066650

Attachment 1066651

Attachment 1066652

Rear Seating

Attachment 1066653

Gear knob, steering, and ABC Pedals ...

Attachment 1066647

Attachment 1066648

Attachment 1066649

[starter]

Originally Posted by manveet

The image is from the Thar Di Product Spec sheet itself. But will it be a direct fitment onto to the Thar is what I am wondering.

In other words, is the front frame the same in the Thar Di and CRDe?

Hey Manveet,
Do check this post from Tini
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/4x4-ve...ml#post3148959
Since he has been able to switch from Di to CRDe, you should be able to do it the other way round too, i assume.
BUT, read the above thread before you go ahead. He mentions that the Di windshield frame leaks in heavy rains.
Cheers,
Deepak

[manveet]

Originally Posted by darxide

hi love what youve done with your thar-great job!! i plan to change the steering in '09 scorpio too. please tell me of any issues you had while installing the hub and steering. as in do the indicators work, and is a 14" diameter steering make a big difference-(original steering is 15"). etc work fine etc..

That is a nice looking Scorpio. Love those alloys. I have seen this alloy pattern on one Thar and one MM5X0 till date - and like I said before on this thread as well - those are the only ones I have ever seen that I prefer to mine. Am up for an exchange anytime.

Regarding the hub, the indicator return function doesn't work, and there is no other drawback. But its totally worth it, I absolutely ADORE my steering. But then I am talking about changing from Thar steering to Momo steering, am not sure whether the Scorpio steering is ugly enough for you to go in for that change. The Thar steering was positively ugly and completely out of place, from what I can recollect top of mind, the Scorpio steering is not that bad.

Originally Posted by starter

Hey Manveet,
Do check this post from Tini
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/4x4-ve...ml#post3148959
Since he has been able to switch from Di to CRDe, you should be able to do it the other way round too, i assume.
BUT, read the above thread before you go ahead. He mentions that the Di windshield frame leaks in heavy rains.
Cheers,
Deepak

Thank you VERY VERY much for putting my keeda to rest (for the moment). Leaks I could have lived with or worked around, but he also mentions that it rattles! THAT is a deal-breaker.

As an aside, it seems to be a very good thread with some well executed mods and pictorial representations. I have bookmarked it for reference reading.

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Dear Manveet - I had used the existing location of the stopper brackets of the opening windshield of the DI to hold the instrument panel of the CRDe with a channel placed on top of the molded IP to provide sufficient section modulus. Therefore, no change in tool, no cost, no lead time, direct introduction . Center distance = 45 mm. Bracket angle = 7 degrees. Fastener size = M6*1.0/8.8 grade green passivated. Quantity = 4 nos. I had also given provision for the fifth mounting @ car center line to provide better stability to the IP. Check it out by keeping both vehicles side by side, you will find out within 2 minutes. Don't monkey around with it, you'll spoil your vehicle!

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[manveet]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Manveet - I had used the existing location of the stopper brackets of the opening windshield of the DI to hold the instrument panel of the CRDe with a channel placed on top of the molded IP to provide sufficient section modulus. Therefore, no change in tool, no cost, no lead time, direct introduction . Center distance = 45 mm. Bracket angle = 7 degrees. Fastener size = M6*1.0/8.8 grade green passivated. Quantity = 4 nos. I had also given provision for the fifth mounting @ car center line to provide better stability to the IP. Check it out by keeping both vehicles side by side, you will find out within 2 minutes. Don't monkey around with it, you'll spoil your vehicle!

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

Update on the windshield project : I have asked around and eventually perished the thought. Too many rattles and water leakage issues.

Update on the seats. .. A couple of people have been asking me over messages about my Innova seats and I somehow missed replying. My apologies. So I have sold off the seats and gone in for the Qualis second row two-seater. Wasted some money and time on the seats but overall this finally looks good enough to stay. Just some inbuilt rattles that I need to get sorted.

Work to be sorted out this month ..

• Move the front speakers away from the door and on small boxes fixed to the rear wheel wells. The components will go on the B-pillar.
• Front tow-hooks welded to the chassis that will come out through slits in the front bumper.
• Pintle hook for the rear. This would get bolted to a plate which would then bolt onto the chassis. Just cannot find pintle hooks that plug and play directly into the 4 holes provided in the Thar for this purpose. So some people have been using just 2 bolts and others welding, but I have been told that the plate method is by far the most effective & functional

I recently went on an out-of-town OTR to Corbett with my wife with a bunch of like-minded couples. And this was where it became evident where a nicely modded Thar truly shines. You can drive it 250 kms to a location and then pretty much beat the shit out of it, and then comfortably drive it 250 kms home.

All the Fortuner's, LR's, Scorpio's, Gypsy's lose out in one or the other of both areas.

A few pics for time-pass ..

[Shubhendra]

Originally Posted by manveet

Update on the windshield project : I have asked around and eventually perished the thought. Too many rattles and water leakage issues.

Even i suggest to not to go for foldable windshield. There will ALWAYS be rattle and seapage issue.
we did above (openable windshield with openable frame as well) mod to a thar which is used extensively in jungles. Initially it worked fine but few months rattles and sepage was noticed whenever we closed the windshield. However vehicle requires to be driven glass down 50% thus not reverted back to original setup.
But not meant/useful for people who would open their windshields once in a while.

Shubhendra

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Originally Posted by manveet

1. Pintle hook for the rear. This would get bolted to a plate which would then bolt onto the chassis. 2. I recently went on an out-of-town OTR to Corbett with my wife with a bunch of like-minded couples. And this was where it became evident where a nicely modded Thar truly shines. You can drive it 250 kms to a location and then pretty much beat the shit out of it, and then comfortably drive it 250 kms home. All the Fortuner's, LR's, Scorpio's, Gypsy's lose out in one or the other of both areas.

Dear Manveet Paaji - for point no 1, please be very careful with the rear pintle hook application. This chassis does not have the traditional "K" member like the original CJ3B Jeep (because diesel tank is there). If you do any hanky panky, the chassis will get irrepairably damaged. Please use the parts exactly same as supplied for army MM540 NGCS, these are tested and proven. Back end is exactly same as army NGCS.

For point no 2, you have made my day! Tussi Great Ho, Tohfu Kabool Karo!



Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[manveet]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Manveet Paaji - for point no 1, please be very careful with the rear pintle hook application. This chassis does not have the traditional "K" member like the original CJ3B Jeep (because diesel tank is there). If you do any hanky panky, the chassis will get irrepairably damaged. Please use the parts exactly same as supplied for army MM540 NGCS, these are tested and proven. Back end is exactly same as army NGCS.

For point no 2, you have made my day! Tussi Great Ho, Tohfu Kabool Karo!



Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

For point No. 1, yes that is the plan. I have sourced the MM5x0 plate along with the same Army Pintle hook. The plate is very thick high quality stuff with a bend at the bottom - guess you are referring to the same. It is a direct bolt on system.

For point no. 2, I was expecting your tohfu even when I was typing it

[desertfox]

Unless the pintle hook or any other tow point is fixed with sufficient and load rated binders directly into the chassis there is a risk.

Looks is different of a red painted pintle hook or some great looking shackles in stainless steel screwed on to the front bumper.

But listen to advice from this guy who has flown 30 ft into the desert when a tow road ( Kinetic energy rope ) snapped!

If it breaks it can be very dangerous for people in a 10 m radius.

[DHABHAR.BEHRAM]

Originally Posted by desertfox

Unless the pintle hook or any other tow point is fixed with sufficient and load rated binders directly into the chassis there is a risk. If it breaks it can be very dangerous for people in a 10 m radius.

Dear Shahidbhai - you are absolutely correct, even though army MM540 pintle hook is tried and tested, the "K" member is still not there in army MM540, neither in Thar CRDe.

Dear Manveet - if you really want to tow another vehicle whose weight is 1.25 times your vehicle weight (we do this towing test to validate the cooling system on the test tracks over a distance of more than 300 kms), and you are 100% serious about it, then please design and build a "K" member. Obviously the diesel tank will need to be shifted inside the vehicle. I know it is too far fetched to do it on your own but I am just informing you the ground reality. For serious towing, nothing matches the CJ3B's "K" member! I am posting a picture of a similar design, showcasing its capability, where the chassis long members are trepanned, with round cross members passing through on both sides, increasing the section modulus and the factor of safety enormously.

Thanks for your comment on the "tohfu". Feels nice! .

Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

[cpbopanna]

Originally Posted by DHABHAR.BEHRAM

Dear Manveet Paaji - for point no 1, please be very careful with the rear pintle hook application. This chassis does not have the traditional "K" member like the original CJ3B Jeep (because diesel tank is there). Best regards,

Behram Dhabhar

I don't understand - I own a 1994 model MM540 WITH a traditional "K" member WITH the diesel tank at the rear! Just like the original CJ3B, CJ500D, etc.

I use a pintle hook without the requirement of a mounting plate (like in the military jeeps).

If I remember right, M&M discontinued the use of "K" member in MM540s (probably for cost-cutting) sometime after 1995, I owned a 1990 model MM540 with rear diesel tank & "K" member and still own the 94 model MM540!

[Timson]

Originally Posted by cpbopanna

I don't understand - I own a 1994 model MM540 WITH a traditional "K" member WITH the diesel tank at the rear! Just like the original CJ3B, CJ500D, etc.

I use a pintle hook without the requirement of a mounting plate (like in the military jeeps).

If I remember right, M&M discontinued the use of "K" member in MM540s (probably for cost-cutting) sometime after 1995, I owned a 1990 model MM540 with rear diesel tank & "K" member and still own the 94 model MM540!

@cpbopanna

Here are few pics of a stock 1986 Model MM-540 and also a CJ-4A with the fuel tank mounted at the rear under the K-cross member.

Chengappa.

[desertfox]

Dhabhar Bhai I have seen over a dozen cases, Prados stuck in the desert being towed out by their just welded towpoints and the tow point breaking the welded joint and flying out.

The Scorpio 4WD that I own and the Thar have similar welded tow points. This is the reason I never used a tow strap in badly stuck situations but a Kinetic Energy Recovery Rope ( Magic rope ).

By the way I will make your day today. I had sold off my MM550 to a friends son last week.

Yesterday I paid the money to buy a new Thar CRDe Rocky Biege!