[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by condor

Sunnyboi, where did you get the tar sheets ? I am looking for some decent ones like whta you got here.

What's the thickness of this tar sheet ?

I bought it from a shop on SP Road, forgot the name. This was the packing label on the sheets.



Its thin; same thickness as other tar sheets available in the market. Plus this didn't smell as well, it did smell a bit for first two days but then it doesn't reappear even if I park the car in the hot sun for a whole day.


Hope this helps!

[condor]

Thanks, Sunny.

Searchign for stuff in SP road or JC road bylanes is like searching for a needle in a haystack. An approximate location of the shop, please. May be google maps ?

[SunnyBoi]

Today must be our lucky day found his visiting card in a stackpile hehe.

Give a call on his mobile once you're nearby, he will guide you to his shop

[Red Panda]

Has anyone tried removing them after installing for any reason what it may be? Is it easily removable or it take the same time that is required for installation?

[schakravarthy]

Originally Posted by Red Panda

Has anyone tried removing them after installing for any reason what it may be? Is it easily removable or it take the same time that is required for installation?

I can't say about the damping mats, but the tar sheets can be pulled out. Having had to remove them from my own and from a friend's car, I talk from personal experience. It's a bit of a struggle, but they do come out.

[::CMS::]

If fixed properly, tar felts wont comeout because of the melted tar.

Gr8 SunnyBoi, happy to see people venture into DIY. BTW, How much does the Al backing felt cost? Need some more for roof and back doors.

[im_srini]

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

I have damped my car similar to what ::CMS:: has done.

Hi SunnyBoi, many thanks for the pictures.
Could you let us know which car it was that was damped ?
And also, how many sq. feet of material did you have to get ?

[condor]

Why would you want to remove them ?

Both will require some effort to remove. Just that, the damping sheets are heavier than tar sheets.

I think - When he doors heat up due to being parked in the sun, the sheets will stick a little better.

Originally Posted by im_srini

And also, how many sq. feet of material did you have to get ?

Sunny has damped the doors. If you are going to do something like that, then you can measure the size of your doors, and get about 1.75 times that (in Sq ft). This is if you want to use a single layer.
But if you want to do a double layer to compensate for the lesser weight when compared to damping sheets, then you would need more.

These sheets are not expensive. Could be about 100 Rs per Sq meter retail.

One way to better stick it is - after you place the sheet against the metal, heat the sheet with hot air (you can use a hair dryer). Remember to clean the metal sheet before you stick this sheet

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

Today must be our lucky day found his visiting card in a stackpile hehe.

Thanks !

one more question- how heavy is this sheet ? (rough)

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by ::CMS::

Gr8 SunnyBoi, happy to see people venture into DIY. BTW, How much does the Al backing felt cost? Need some more for roof and back doors.

Thanks, its not Al backed but its just plastic that looks like Al foil

I had damped my previous car about 2.5 years ago in the same way. Front doors were damped using DampMat by a professional audio installer. Rear doors, hatch, boot and rear floor were all DIY using tar felt

Originally Posted by im_srini

Hi SunnyBoi, many thanks for the pictures.
Could you let us know which car it was that was damped ?
And also, how many sq. feet of material did you have to get ?

Hi, both the cars were Palios. I did the front doors using 3-4 layers, rear doors using 2-3 layers, boot and rear floor were again 2-3 layers. All this took me about half a roll, around 10sq meters. With a roll being about 1700rs, thats ~850rs per car. I bought a whole roll, half of which schakravarthy used to damp his car.

Originally Posted by condor

one more question- how heavy is this sheet ? (rough)

All I can say is that the 20meter roll was very heavy and tough to lug around which is a good thing because more weight = more dampening I guess.

[wishnipon]

My 2014 Alto K10 has no cladding on the wheel arches. On the highway, at high speeds, a lot of road noise is there, which becomes a bother even with the windows rolled up. By road noise I mean the noise from the tyres. From what I have gathered from this thread, when it comes to road noise, dampening the wheel arches, esp the rear ones, is most important, and firewall and door dampening come later. During the purchase, the dealer did a anti-rust coating of the underbody. Yet the road noise is significant.

Should I apply more rubberized coating to the wheel wells to reduce the tyre noise?

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by wishnipon

My 2014 Alto K10 has no cladding on the wheel arches. On the highway, at high speeds, a lot of road noise is there, which becomes a bother even with the windows rolled up. By road noise I mean the noise from the tyres. From what I have gathered from this thread, when it comes to road noise, dampening the wheel arches, esp the rear ones, is most important, and firewall and door dampening come later. During the purchase, the dealer did a anti-rust coating of the underbody. Yet the road noise is significant.

Should I apply more rubberized coating to the wheel wells to reduce the tyre noise?

The (induced) road noise in the cabin will not significantly reduce if one damps the wheel arches. That's because the noise is transmitted from the suspension to the outer metal of the doors via the contact points of the door (hinges, locks etc.).

It is enough that you get the door outer metal layer damped with extra damping (they already have some, but that is proportional to the cost of the car!). The noise will not come down to 0, but at least it will reduce enough to have decent conversation inside the car with windows closed. You will also hear more of the lower end of the music (the road noise is in the same part of the audio spectrum) - even with OE speakers.

[wishnipon]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

The (induced) road noise in the cabin will not significantly reduce if one damps the wheel arches. That's because the noise is transmitted from the suspension to the outer metal of the doors via the contact points of the door (hinges, locks etc.).

Thanks for the tip. What is your take on firewall damping for the Alto K10. Is dismantling the dashboard a good idea? If the dash starts rattling later, the whole purpose will be defeated.

I am also interested in damping the roof because during rains, the pitter-patter of the raindrops create a ruckus! For the roof, I can use cheaper damping material I guess.

What can be an estimated cost to damp the doors, the bootlid, roof (with cheaper material), bonnet + firewall (optional if budget permits).

Main problem at hand is excessive noise from the tyres at high speeds. Engine noise is not much of a problem with windows turned up, almost not there at city speeds and acceptable on the highway.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by wishnipon

... What is your take on firewall damping for the Alto K10. Is dismantling the dashboard a good idea? If the dash starts rattling later, the whole purpose will be defeated. ...

IMHO the cost / benefit ratio would be rather poor. Dismantling the dash is not trivial, and will take a lot of time and money. Firewall damping is worth in cars with diesel engines, not for petrol engines. Simple felt carpet works when placed on areas that are easily accessible.

Originally Posted by wishnipon

... I am also interested in damping the roof because during rains, the pitter-patter of the raindrops create a ruckus! For the roof, I can use cheaper damping material I guess. ...

Damping the ceiling would require you to strip the ceiling liner first. Not sure if Wuerth spray would be cheaper, but that would be the most appropriate. Tar sheet / felt is an alternative, but would cause a lingering smell in summer.

Originally Posted by wishnipon

... What can be an estimated cost to damp the doors, the bootlid, roof (with cheaper material), bonnet + firewall (optional if budget permits). ...

More than 20K + labor. Doors only would be ~5K. For bootlid, use tightly rolled up closed-cell foam sheets and virgin cotton waste, stuffed into the between the outer sheet and inner frame.

[wishnipon]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

IMHO the cost / benefit ratio would be rather poor. Dismantling the dash is not trivial, and will take a lot of time and money. Firewall damping is worth in cars with diesel engines, not for petrol engines. Simple felt carpet works when placed on areas that are easily accessible.

Damping the ceiling would require you to strip the ceiling liner first. Not sure if Wuerth spray would be cheaper, but that would be the most appropriate. Tar sheet / felt is an alternative, but would cause a lingering smell in summer.

More than 20K + labor. Doors only would be ~5K. For bootlid, use tightly rolled up closed-cell foam sheets and virgin cotton waste, stuffed into the between the outer sheet and inner frame.

Great tip. Firewall plan cancelled. That's settled. I am weary of taking apart the ceiling, and still deliberating. Why do you suggest using extra material for the bootlid in particular?

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by wishnipon

... Why do you suggest using extra material for the bootlid in particular?

Instead, not extra. Boot lid doesn't radiate much induced road noise, but contributes to rattles from loose cables / wires and number plate rattling. One doesn't need damping sheets here - just stuffed cotton waste / closed-cell foam in enough.