[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by timuseravan

I think he meant 3 layers one on top of another - but will confirm.
I will inquire about the 4 and rear door damping as you suggested - can you give an approx cost for the same?

3 layers one on top of another: if they have suggested this, quite likely their sheets are of inferior quality / too thin.

The rear door will cost only a couple of 100. All of them put together should come to 7-8K with Dampmat or Dynamat.

[timuseravan]

One more question to the experts: I am not a big audiophile - I listen to mostly older hindi and softer songs. So is damping absolutely necessary for Scorpio doors?

[sukiwa]

Originally Posted by timuseravan

So is damping absolutely necessary for Scorpio doors?

Yes & No.
Yes if one wants a quieter cabin, limit road noise from tyres and minimum vibrations from/to speakers. And also if one wants to notice finer nuances from songs (implying that investing in good quality speakers & amplifier).
No if above doesn't matter for one's listening taste.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by timuseravan

... I am not a big audiophile - I listen to mostly older hindi and softer songs. So is damping absolutely necessary for Scorpio doors?

One doesn't have to be a big audiophile. It is enough to know that parts of the music is overpowered by the induced road noise. This happens to be in the same audio range as mid-bass, which means you are missing a part of the music. Why would you want to miss out?

Most people play audio slightly louder for overcoming the road noise. The actual solution is to damp it out.

[Hawkeye269]

After having scoured this thread for the better part of a week (had to take time off for mundane things like work, food and sleep ), I'd like to hear from you guys if the following would be a fairly ideal set-up for acoustic isolation and thermal insulation in a large SUV ("ideal" is subjective - in this case it means placing a higher emphasis on performance and a lower one on cost, all while trying not to go off the deep end with either):

• Hood: layer of Xtreme Dynamat covered by Dynamat Hoodliner
• Firewall (passenger side): layer of Xtreme Dynamat covered by Dynaliner
• Floor: layer of Xtreme Dynamat covered by Dynaliner
• Doors: layer of Xtreme Dynamat
• Cargo area: layer of Xtreme Dynamat
• Roof: Dynaliner
• Underbody (including wheel wells): Würth Gravel Throw Protection Aqua Black

In this setup, what if anything would you change (no DIY suggestions please)?

Looking forward to reading your comments. Thanks!

[condor]

@Hawkeye, have you got an estimate for that yet ?

I would suggest to exclude the hood. The Firewall would be key, followed by other metal sheet areas.

From the feedback I have, the under-body lining may not help drastically. But I want to try that myself before deciding.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by Hawkeye269

... if the following would be a fairly ideal set-up for acoustic isolation and thermal insulation in a large SUV ("ideal" is subjective - in this case it means placing a higher emphasis on performance and a lower one on cost, all while trying not to go off the deep end with either) ...

Originally Posted by condor

... have you got an estimate for that yet ? ...

THE MOST important question, considering the last part of the para above!

* First open the bonnet and check if there is a liner. Even my 2007 Safari has it

* 'Thermal insulation' is already provided where is matters the most: the Ceiling Liner. In the areas where it really matters (day temperature >45degC), people cover the roof with a "Khus ki tatti" which they keep wet

* Most of the sound that affects ICE reproduction intrudes into the cabin from the doors - road noise is conducted via the door hinges to the outer panels, and the outer panel resonates. All cars have *some* damping provided to control NVH, but that may not make the cabin 'silent' for ICE purposes

* Boot floor already has at least one layer of felt mat - good enough

* Ditto the floor in the cabin - it usually has damping material placed strategically, as well as at least one layer of felt mat carpet

* 5th door can do with some closed-cell foam stuffing, as the number plate and wires / cables in it can rattle, especially if one has a subwoofer thumping away!

* Damping firewall is difficult - one has to completely strip the dashboard. For normal purposes, damping it doesn't give good returns!

* Underbody spray from Würth is worth it, especially for preventing rust in coastal areas

[ForeRunner]

There is a transparent sticker type sound dampener being released by 3M. Its very light weight compared to conventional (dynamate like) dampeners and costs 6000 for a car. I am considering this option, but I have already bought a full pack of Dynamate sound dampeners.

[Hawkeye269]

Originally Posted by ForeRunner

I am considering this option, but I have already bought a full pack of Dynamate sound dampeners.

From all my armchair research (long live the inter webs!), the consensus view seems to be that you can't go wrong with Dynamat. Sure it might be more expensive than other brands, or marginally thicker / heavier, but from an overall performance point of view Dynamat's pretty much the industry leader.

[condor]

Originally Posted by Hawkeye269

.. fairly ideal set-up for acoustic isolation and thermal insulation in a large SUV

Question 1: Which SUV is this ?

Originally Posted by DerAlte

* First open the bonnet and check if there is a liner. Even my 2007 Safari has it

I have tried damping mat for the bonnet of my Ikon, and it really didnt not help. I would suggest either to leave this, or look for the felt type hood liner that comes from OE.

Originally Posted by DerAlte

* Most of the sound that affects ICE reproduction intrudes into the cabin from the doors - .... All cars have *some* damping provided to control NVH, but that may not make the cabin 'silent' for ICE purposes

* Boot floor already has at least one layer of felt mat - good enough

* 5th door can do with some closed-cell foam stuffing, as the number plate and wires / cables in it can rattle, especially if one has a subwoofer thumping away!

I have opened 3 cars for such damping, though none in the SUV category. The doors did not have much in them except for pieces of anti-damping sheets there. (No foam etc). The lower priced cars had lesser damping on the floors.

@DerAlte, thanks for the inputs again. Will check the doors in the car again.

[Hawkeye269]

Originally Posted by condor

@Hawkeye, have you got an estimate for that yet ?

Originally Posted by Hawkeye269

... fairly ideal set-up for acoustic isolation and thermal insulation in a large SUV ("ideal" is subjective - in this case it means placing a higher emphasis on performance and a lower one on cost, all while trying not to go off the deep end with either)

Originally Posted by DerAlte

THE MOST important question, considering the last part of the para above!

Condor, DerAlte: thank you, gentlemen, for the prompt responses. In truth I do not have an estimate, but I already have most of the stuff lying in my store room, including:

• Dynamat Xtreme 10455, 9 sheets measuring 18" x 32" x 0.067" (36 square feet in total) - in hindsight I'll probably need at least 2 more of these bulk packs
• Dynamat Dynaliner 11102, 2 rolls measuring 32" x 54" x 1/4" (24 square feet in total) - I'll probably need 3 or 4 more of these as well
• Dynamat Hoodliner 11905, 1 piece measuring 32" x 54" x 3/4"
• Dynamat 13100, 1 roll of 1-1/2" DynaTape
• Dynamat 10007 Dyna-Roller

Consequently, cost is somewhat moot for me at this stage...

[sandeepmohan]

Does applying damping material such as Dampmat, etc arrest vibrations from the plastic door panel?

From what I see, the damping material is being applied to the metal door frame. Not quite sure how this arrests or stops the plastic door panel from vibrating.

The plastic door panels on my Fiat Linea vibrate without even playing music too loud. If I invest in damping material, where do I apply it.

[Cinquecento500]

Gurus, need some guidance.

While we are talking about damping, I feel that NVH levels in my Innova (Jan 2009, 65 K kms done) have increased. Damping may be one way of reducing this, but was thinking of getting all the fasteners tightened, rubber and bushes checked and replaced. I feel aging may have damaged or hardened the rubbers and this might be leading to higher NVH (I dont hear too many rattles though)

Any suggestions and experience on this please.

[straight6]

Guys,

I'm getting Wurth damping sheets of 11mm thickness and 1000 x 500 size. Will these be good for our purpose or will they be too thick? And how many sheets of that size will I require for the SX4?

[jinu_joseph]

Does any one know a good installer for Dynamat Hoodliner in Mulund, Mumbai? Rats have eaten away the factory fit damping cover under the bonnet and i need it replaced. Thanks