[Sam Kapasi]

Originally Posted by Epic

Hi,

Which is the best and most effictive way to connect an iPod to your car audio system? I believe there are the Harmon Kardon Drive & Play available for INR 10000/-. Is the drive & play still required even if the head unit is iPod ready?

Epic

If your HU is iPod ready, OR has an aux in, then the HK D+P is not a necessity, but a luxury.
The main thing it offers is a convenient large screen for the iPod display and a super convenient i-drive based gear shift knob to change tracks without taking your eyes off the road.
Like i said, cool, but not a necessity, if you have an aux in.

[maxbhp]

Sam , Navin & other Gurus care to share a few words of wisdom on my query ?

[Sam Kapasi]

Max,

After reading all your queries, I am convinced all you need is a single 10" or 12" subwoofer in a perfectly designed sealed enclosure. Let us know what woofer you decide on and we will help you make that sealed enclosure for it.

[maxbhp]

Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi

Max,

After reading all your queries, I am convinced all you need is a single 10" or 12" subwoofer in a perfectly designed sealed enclosure. Let us know what woofer you decide on and we will help you make that sealed enclosure for it.

1. ITs ALPINE SWS 1242 D.
2. The sub is DVC rated at 300RMS @ 4 OHMS .
3. I have decided to go for a Mono Amp . Suggest the ideal power rating.

[maxbhp]

Originally Posted by maxbhp

1. ITs ALPINE SWS 1242 D.
2. The sub is DVC rated at 300RMS @ 4 OHMS .
3. I have decided to go for a Mono Amp . Suggest the ideal power rating.

some one please respond to this NOOBIE

[hydrashok]

@Max, according to the Sub's Manual (http://www.alpine.com.au/products/manual.asp?id=189#), the sealed box volume range for this sub is between 0.85 and 1.5 cu.ft.

The ported box volume range is between 1.25 & 2.0 cu.ft. They haven't mentioned port diameter or length (!).

The thiele small parameters haven't been mentioned either. Instead we are supposed to refer to www.alpine.com (according to the manual). Hmmmmmm...

The nominal RMS range is 50w to 300w RMS, and the max range is 300w to 900w RMS. I think an amp rated at a nominal RMS of 250w to 300w RMS should be fine for a ported box. For a sealed box, about 300w-350w RMS nominal should be fine.

[speedzak]

Max. Are you going to make hole in your parcel shelf to get the bass into the car?
If the answer for above is yes, then I would recommend you to get a sealed box of .85 cu. ft. That will be fine for this sub and you will not lose much of the boot space. If you want, you can go for a bigger box too! (Big appeals for many, especially girls!! )

Monoblock??? Get an Alpine 300W one. Won't cost yu much and will suffice for this amp. The JBL 301.1 is also a nice bet.
But if you plan an upgrae of sub in future, you will have to get a more better amp too. So, it is always better to invest in something bigger if you can afford. (Again, BIG comes into play)!!

[maxbhp]

Originally Posted by hydrashok

@Max, according to the Sub's Manual (http://www.alpine.com.au/products/manual.asp?id=189#), the sealed box volume range for this sub is between 0.85 and 1.5 cu.ft.

The ported box volume range is between 1.25 & 2.0 cu.ft. They haven't mentioned port diameter or length (!).

The thiele small parameters haven't been mentioned either. Instead we are supposed to refer to www.alpine.com (according to the manual). Hmmmmmm...

The nominal RMS range is 50w to 300w RMS, and the max range is 300w to 900w RMS. I think an amp rated at a nominal RMS of 250w to 300w RMS should be fine for a ported box. For a sealed box, about 300w-350w RMS nominal should be fine.

Originally Posted by speedzak

Max. Are you going to make hole in your parcel shelf to get the bass into the car?
If the answer for above is yes, then I would recommend you to get a sealed box of .85 cu. ft. That will be fine for this sub and you will not lose much of the boot space. If you want, you can go for a bigger box too! (Big appeals for many, especially girls!! )

Monoblock??? Get an Alpine 300W one. Won't cost yu much and will suffice for this amp. The JBL 301.1 is also a nice bet.
But if you plan an upgrae of sub in future, you will have to get a more better amp too. So, it is always better to invest in something bigger if you can afford. (Again, BIG comes into play)!!

Hydra , I got the volume thing , but what I want to know is about its outside dimensions , basically the shape.
Zak you are awake at 5 in the morning ? Wow ! thats some commitment to TBHP or to your business ?

• Am making a hole in the parcel shelf. Whats the exact dimension of enclosure ? I have see two kind .
• One is a quare shaped one where sub is mounted on the top side.
• The other one has smaller (read narrow) top plate and the side looks almost like the Alphabet A with woofer mounted on the slanting face.Which is better .
• If I port the sub what will the effect on the amplifier ?
• What will the alpine Amps cost yaar ? Any mega deals open for you ?

[hydrashok]

Originally Posted by maxbhp

• Am making a hole in the parcel shelf. Whats the exact dimension of enclosure ? I have see two kind .
• One is a quare shaped one where sub is mounted on the top side.
• The other one has smaller (read narrow) top plate and the side looks almost like the Alphabet A with woofer mounted on the slanting face.Which is better .
• If I port the sub what will the effect on the amplifier ?
• What will the alpine Amps cost yaar ? Any mega deals open for you ?

@Max,

It is best to have none of walls of the box exactly parallel to each other, to reduce standing waves. IMHO a perfect cube should never be used. Something like a wedge would be good. The rear wall can be slanted along the angle of the rear seat (so it can sit snug to the rear seat), with the wall directly opposite angled, but at a lesser angle than the rear wall. The side walls can also be angled slightly. Something like this: [Forgive my MS Paint skills ]

EDIT:Pic in next post -- edit time over

The "like Alphabet A" design you mentioned is the design I''m backing - the wedge shape.

Sealed sub-boxes need more powerful amps to get as loud as ported sub-boxes (with the same driver). Ported subs will give somewhat lower frequency response also. But the bass will be less tight, and if not done right, the bass will be quite loose and muddy.

I guess the Alpine 300w Mono would run to 15K not too sure).

[maxbhp]

Originally Posted by hydrashok

@

The "like Alphabet A" design you mentioned is the design I''m backing - the wedge shape.

[hydrashok]

@ Max, something like this:


EDIT: Just saw your post. Exactly.

[maxbhp]

Originally Posted by hydrashok

@ Max, something like this:


EDIT: Just saw your post. Exactly.

Now in case am making a sealed one , do I have to make a hole on the parcel shelf so that bass can travel through.
Another question is since am using a sealed enclosure , what % of the total power should I take into consideration over that of a ported one ?

[navin]

Originally Posted by maxbhp

Am not much of a boom guy

• I need tight bass
• Am not keen on going for twin subs
• Whats your opinion if I try powering sub from a four channel amp
• Budget for Amp is 12-18.

Just a Query
? Can I connect the two voice coils in parellel , making it 2 ohms and then add the two subs in series so that the toal effective impedence becomes 4 ohms ?

I am sorry for my late reply but I see that Sam, Zak and Hydra have been keeping you company. Most regualrs here know that I go AWOL on weekends. I will continue to do so as long as my son still recognises me when his attention shifts to my wallet and the car keys I will be probably spend more time on my hobbies.

a) A single good sub (say ID) will do a better SQ job than 2 average siubs (say Pio). So if you want good tight bass one sub will do fine, it probably wont wake the neighbourhood but that does not seem to be your aim here.

b) Bridging 2 channels of a 4 ch. amp should be done only if your budget does not allow for a dedicated monoblock or sub amp. Monoblock etc. are designed to drive subs (they cam dump more current and have to muscle to control the heavier cone of a subwoofer) besides a bridged amp (like 2 channels of a 4ch. amp) will NOT be happy with a 2 ohm load. A monoblock should not have such a problem.

c) At 18K for amps I would spend 7K on the Pio 6100 for front and rear and 10-11K on a JBL 300.1 for the sub.

the Qts (or Qms and Qes) of single Alpine sub you are looking at are not known. Givne that I would err and build a sealed box about 1.5 cu. ft. The most space saving box of this kind would be about 3 feet wide, 12" high and an average of 6" deep (internal dimensions). This box would sit across the width of the car in the trunk. Exact dimesions depend on the dimsions of your trunk but I think you get the picture.

The A shaped box that you have drawn is perfect. There is no need to cut a hole in the rear deck to let the bass in.

Epic,

Most current HUs have dedicated cables that allow you to control an ipod from the HU and also see the song being played on the HU's display.

The HK Drive Play is a bit more sophisticated in that one can see almost exactly what one sees on the ipod's screen but it does involve thinking where to mount that display (small as it is).

[Vid6639]

One question guys. Pioneer 6100 amp is one of the older models. As per the websites there is the 6200 and now the 6300 available as well. Are these available in India?

Was just curious since I didn't see any one mentioning about it.

[nura]

Originally Posted by vid6639

One question guys. Pioneer 6100 amp is one of the older models. As per the websites there is the 6200 and now the 6300 available as well. Are these available in India?

Was just curious since I didn't see any one mentioning about it.

The Pioneer GM-6200F is available in gray in Kolkata for 7K. Not available officially. You could also consider the JBL cs60.4 for 9K with bill and warranty. The JBL's crossovers are adjustable between 32Hz and 320Hz, the Pioneer's fixed at 80Hz.
Request BHP gurus to edit for errors. I am a newbie.