[navin]

Originally Posted by sam_hyd

Problem:- I am hearing a cracking noise from front right speaker and tweeter. After debugging the issue for more than 2 hours it was concluded that the noise is coming from the head-unit, since the noise is still there if we connect the speakers directly to the head-unit.

Connect the right speaker to the left channel and vice-versa. I suspect it is the speaker that is faulty and not anything else.

If the sound moves from the right to the left then you will be sure if the speaker is good or not.

Originally Posted by sensible_driver

In second Phase, may be I will go for Under Seat Active Sub , actually I have heard little of Flex Speakers and Amp. So please tell me how good are these models, as sound wise they are good.

Secondly please suggest some good Under Seat Active Sub models.

I have never heard of Flex speakers or amplifiers. Most under seat subwoofers are very limited in the quality of the bass they can produce. The box is too shallow (as it has to fit under the seat) and hence the bass of these subwoofers is limited.

That said, please note that outside of a few "non-speaker" brands like Pioneer or Kenwood I have not heard any under seat subwoofers.

Originally Posted by IshaanIan

here is high pitched noise coming from the system that is proportionate to the engine revs. Someone said that the wiring should be routed away from the main wiring or something can anyone explain to me what exactly this means? So that I can convey it to my installer?

Anything else I should look into to get this noise to go away? Next question is, I have about 8 kilos of damping sheets left over even after generously using damping sheets all around the vehicle. My installer said that we could put them in the roof. Considering there are no audible vibrations either inside or outside the car, he said this would not help the audio listening experience but it would mean hushed patter of raindrops in the rains and less intrusion of heat into the cabin under the sun. Both are features that would be nice to have, but I am apprehensive about this. Is it easy to apply to the roof? Will there be any complications? Is it worth it? Or should I just give away those extra damping sheets to a friend or someone else who might need it for their audio install?

The first problem you have is "alternator whine" you can google that term for more detailed explanations but in short it is when the alternator of your car is producing a sound that is being picked up by the RCA cables that run between your Head unit and your Amplifier (the wires work like antennas) and then being amplified by your amplifier. The object is to shield the wires from the alternator whine. One way is to run the power cables from the battery to the amplifier (which I presume is in the trunk) on one side of the car and run all other wires (RCA and speaker cables) along the other side of the car. You can even try wrapping the wires in aluminum foil. If both these methods fail you can buy a ground loop isolator filter for the alternator whine. (see link)
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_127SNI1/PAC-SNI-1.html

I would NOT recommend using the extra damping on the roof. It is not that the roof will NOT benefit from the damping but because I have rarely found any installer that can restore the roof to the original condition after installing the damping. Keep in mind that the damping has weight and when the roof gets hot and the glue holding the damping softens it may sag and damage the inner lining of the roof.

Originally Posted by columbus

Have zeroed down to Pioneer Z5190BT. I believe the speakers will also need to be changed.

Also can i add a small sub in the back since the head unit has sub out. The sub needs to be removable since space is a constraint during highway drives.

20k for 4 speakers, hmm, you should look at Morel, Focal, DLS, Rainbow, and maybe Polk and Boston as well.

If you want a detachable subwoofer you can use a "Speakon Connector" (see link). This will permit you to attach and detach the subwoofer quickly and surely.
https://www.parts-express.com/neutri...mount--092-050

[IshaanIan]

Originally Posted by navin

The first problem you have is "alternator whine" you can google that term for more detailed explanations but in short it is when the alternator of your car is producing a sound that is being picked up by the RCA cables that run between your Head unit and your Amplifier (the wires work like antennas) and then being amplified by your amplifier. The object is to shield the wires from the alternator whine. One way is to run the power cables from the battery to the amplifier (which I presume is in the trunk) on one side of the car and run all other wires (RCA and speaker cables) along the other side of the car. You can even try wrapping the wires in aluminum foil. If both these methods fail you can buy a ground loop isolator filter for the alternator whine. (see link)
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_127SNI1/PAC-SNI-1.html

I would NOT recommend using the extra damping on the roof. It is not that the roof will NOT benefit from the damping but because I have rarely found any installer that can restore the roof to the original condition after installing the damping. Keep in mind that the damping has weight and when the roof gets hot and the glue holding the damping softens it may sag and damage the inner lining of the roof.

Thanks I did end up buying one of those filters now I have another question; the bass I am getting from the 12 inch DVC subwoofer behind, is very boomy. As in I feel I can hear the bass too much which is not what I like. I prefer feeling the bass but hearing it as little as possible, if you know what I mean. This has led the head unit to turn the bass down to - 20 amplification when I tried to use the auto eq. Even then few songs yield very boomy bass characteristics which I hate. Is this down to the box that is being used? Would another type of enclosure be better? The forester has a very big boot and the sheet that covers the boot area is gone so it is a very airy and large cabin and I wonder if that has something to do with the boomy bass characteristics.

[rravik]

Hi all,

I am an ICE noob so please pardon my naive questions, I have a Grand i10 sports running stock HU (with 7 inch display carplay/android auto). As part of the ICE upgrade, to start with I just wanted to replace the front door speakers with components which I have already done. Went with Focal 165AS(Rs 13000) (wanted to go for Morel Maximo, but that was out of stock at most places) and my plan was to add an amp and coaxial at the rear 6 months down the line.
Right now I am not that satisfied with the sound quality which I guess is due to my under powered HU(25W/channel I think). So now I am considering adding an amp an rear coaxial as well do the damping on all 4 doors. Since the budget is a constraint(~15k) I am considering the following and need suggestions.

1) Amplifier -
Focal Performance Auditor+ AP-4340S ~ Rs. 6500
Blaupunkt EMA 455 ~ Rs 6500
How does these 2 compare given that focal is 70w/channel and Blaupunkt is 55/w ? While one of these be the right choice for the front focal components. What are the other options in this range.

2) Rear coaxial
Focal Performance Auditor+ RCX-165PSI* ~ Rs 2500
80% of the time its only me in the car.

3) Damping all 4 doors
Cannot afford dynamat. So will for some cheaper. Something like
i-COPPER i-D5*would cost Rs. 5000 for 4 sheets

4) Not sure which wiring kit should I go with.

5) Not considering a Sub for now,I am not that interested in bass and prefer SQ.

6) No plans to change to HU as I prefer stock look.

I mostly listen to Rock/Pop kind of music, Coke studio and AR Rahman .

[navin]

Originally Posted by IshaanIan

I am getting from the 12 inch DVC subwoofer behind, is very boomy. As in I feel I can hear the bass too much which is not what I like.

Is this down to the box that is being used? Would another type of enclosure be better? .

Is it the quality of the bass or the quantity of the bass you wish to change?

What sort of amplifier drives the subwoofer? Does it have a LPF control, any bass boost or cut, and an option to change the slope of the LPF?

Boomy bass can be of 2 kinds.

One is just plain loud bass. This overloads the cabin and makes every resonant surface vibrate. This can be tuned by the amplifier.

The second type is where the volume is fine but the quality is not. The bass seems to hang in the air long after the music has moved on. To correct for this you need a properly designed box. There are several FREE woofer box design software on the internet but even these can only offer a rough guide as to truly accurately make a box that fits YOUR woofer you need to have measurements of YOUR woofer (2 woofers of the same make and model might differ in measurement as much as 20% aka +/- 10%).

For this reason I prefer to recommend sealed boxes where possible. Sealed boxes are more tolerant of deviations in woofer specifications. So if you do not have a sealed box, maybe you should try one. If your box is a ported box take some old cotton socks and stuff the bass reflex hole. It will make your box "aperiodic" but it may well be a step in the right direction.

Originally Posted by rravik

I have a Grand i10 sports running stock HU..Focal 165AS

1) Amplifier -
Focal Performance Auditor+ AP-4340S ~ Rs. 6500
Blaupunkt EMA 455 ~ Rs 6500
How does these 2 compare given that focal is 70w/channel and Blaupunkt is 55/w ? While one of these be the right choice for the front focal components. What are the other options in this range.

2) Rear coaxial
Focal Performance Auditor+ RCX-165PSI* ~ Rs 2500
80% of the time its only me in the car.

3) Damping all 4 doors
Cannot afford dynamat. So will for some cheaper. Something like
i-COPPER i-D5*would cost Rs. 5000 for 4 sheets

4) Not sure which wiring kit should I go with.

The Fcoal products you have mentioned are quite good. I would just stick to these.

Don't worry about the difference between 55W rms and 70 W rms. If both are honest measurements I doubt you can tell the difference between a 55W and 70W amp (in db the difference is 1db).

You don't have to get fancy with power cable. Any ISI grade power cable will do a good job.

[IshaanIan]

Originally Posted by navin

Is it the quality of the bass or the quantity of the bass you wish to change?

What sort of amplifier drives the subwoofer? Does it have a LPF control, any bass boost or cut, and an option to change the slope of the LPF?

Boomy bass can be of 2 kinds.

One is just plain loud bass. This overloads the cabin and makes every resonant surface vibrate. This can be tuned by the amplifier.

The second type is where the volume is fine but the quality is not. The bass seems to hang in the air long after the music has moved on. To correct for this you need a properly designed box. There are several FREE woofer box design software on the internet but even these can only offer a rough guide as to truly accurately make a box that fits YOUR woofer you need to have measurements of YOUR woofer (2 woofers of the same make and model might differ in measurement as much as 20% aka +/- 10%).

For this reason I prefer to recommend sealed boxes where possible. Sealed boxes are more tolerant of deviations in woofer specifications. So if you do not have a sealed box, maybe you should try one. If your box is a ported box take some old cotton socks and stuff the bass reflex hole. It will make your box "aperiodic" but it may well be a step in the right direction.

Quantity is more than adequate. It is the quality that I want to change. The sub is powered by a Kenwood excelon XR900-5 5 channel amp which is powering the speakers in all the doors as well and there is a DEH-80PRS head unit. I shall take pictures of the controls given in the amp and of the subwoofer box and pm them to you late in the evening, if you can give your inputs based off of that, that would be great.

[t3ofil4us]

Originally Posted by ard1955

Guys, How good is the Blaupunkt San Marino 330 Head unit? Planning to install this on my Alto. Pricing seems to be good, but not able to gauge the performance of the same.

Seems to be a popular product these days, even I intend to get one.

Question to the experts is whether I go for 4 speakers or a component speaker set for my vw ameo. I intend to get the Blaupunkt /jbl speakers only

Originally Posted by t3ofil4us

My Question to the experts is whether I go for 4 speakers or a component speaker set for my vw ameo. I intend to get the Blaupunkt /jbl speakers only

The car is a TRENDLINE variant and comes with no audio/infotainment system. To explain, I have the option of going for a set of 4 coaxial speakers from. JBL /BLAUPUNKT /FOCAL with the head unit.

I feel a better setup would be to have components in the front (jbl) and a pair of coaxial speakers (jbl/Blaupunkt) in the rear doors. Estimated a total budget of 20 k of which the Blaupunkt San Marino costing me 9.5k.

What speakers would you recommend, I intend to get this done IN Navi Mumbai and would appreciate if you can point me to the right installer.

The San Marino seems to have all that I need from a HU as of now(Aux, usb, mirror link, Bluetooth and touch screen interface)

[navin]

Originally Posted by IshaanIan

I shall take pictures of the controls given in the amp and of the subwoofer box and pm them to you late in the evening, if you can give your inputs based off of that, that would be great.

Sure. But I suspect if it quality you are after you might have to modify the box.

If the box is ported, try stuffing the port with old cotton socks.

[Vandit]

Hey guys need someone's urgent help to decide where to mount the tweeter units from the JBL GTO 609C I chose for my Honda City ZX VTEC.

The front windows don't have the quarter panel near the rear view mirrors on the door so I can't use that to mount the tweeters. The only option I see is the on dash mount option but I'm not sure if that's the best place acoustically to place them.

Any suggestion would be desperately welcome as I will get them installed tomorrow

[greenhorn]

Originally Posted by Vandit

Hey guys need someone's urgent help to decide where to mount the tweeter units from the JBL GTO 609C I chose for my Honda City ZX VTEC.

Base of A-pillar is where most people do it, but if you are serious about imaging etc, I would try different positions with double sided tape for a few weeks before I start cutting

[Vandit]

Originally Posted by greenhorn

Base of A-pillar is where most people do it, but if you are serious about imaging etc, I would try different positions with double sided tape for a few weeks before I start cutting

Do you recommend them facing each other or angled slightly towards the cabin. I took a good look at the dash just now and I figured I'm really in a bit of a fix as to how to get them mounted properly tomorrow. I'm not sure I want to have them cut into the A pillars plastic mould cladding but then again the lack of the quarter panel window cladding leaves with very limited options. Saw a thread where someone with the zx mounted the tweeters at the top near the sunshade but that's definitely not to my liking

[navin]

Originally Posted by Vandit

Hey guys need someone's urgent help to decide where to mount the tweeter units from the JBL GTO 609C I chose for my Honda City ZX VTEC.

Originally Posted by greenhorn

Base of A-pillar is where most people do it

Originally Posted by Vandit

Do you recommend them facing each other or angled slightly towards the cabin.

My mother had a 2007 ZX CVT and we installed the tweeter high on the doors. As Greenhorn suggested test the location with double sided tape. It is nice to have a friend help you with this. I had "The Fantastic Mr. Sam Kapasi" helping me (lord I miss that man). We badgered my mom into getting "just one amp" then got a giant JBL 755.6 6 channel amp and snuck a 12" GTO subwoofer into the trunk.

Angle them towards the opposing listener. Left tweeter pointing towards right passenger, right tweeter pointing at driver.

[Vandit]

Originally Posted by navin

My mother had a 2007 ZX CVT and we installed the tweeter high on the doors. As Greenhorn suggested test the location with double sided tape. It is nice to have a friend help you with this. I had "The Fantastic Mr. Sam Kapasi" helping me (lord I miss that man). We badgered my mom into getting "just one amp" then got a giant JBL 755.6 6 channel amp and snuck a 12" GTO subwoofer into the trunk.

Angle them towards the opposing listener. Left tweeter pointing towards right passenger, right tweeter pointing at driver.

Excellent. Thanks Navin. Will take note.

[t3ofil4us]

Originally Posted by t3ofil4us

The car is a TRENDLINE variant and comes with no audio/infotainment system. To explain, I have the option of going for a set of 4 coaxial speakers from. JBL /BLAUPUNKT /FOCAL with the head unit.

I feel a better setup would be to have components in the front (jbl) and a pair of coaxial speakers (jbl/Blaupunkt) in the rear doors. Estimated a total budget of 20 k

What speakers would you recommend, I intend to get this done IN Navi Mumbai and would appreciate if you can point me to the right installer.

Guys, need your help.

I got a Blaupunkt gtb 12 inch sub woofer (250 w rms) and a JBL GT5-S422 Amplifier rated for 300w from my cousin who had this on. His alto(sold now). I intend to fit this along with a pair of JBL component speakers in the front and a pair of JBL coaxials in the back. I need your directions to a good technician in vashi or nerul to pair this with the San Marino head unit I have in mind.

[shivshanker]

Friends, checked for all possible combinations such as Power Cable +Price and RCA Cable +Price, did not get any suitable hits, hence the question.

Been shopping around in Bombay, Mulund / Thane area. I want to add a pair of front speakers on my Thar and a 4 CH Amp, both Pioneer, to my existing Single din unit.

For Amplifier Power and 2 Sets of RCA Cabling my installer is asking for around 5500 +3500 odd for the Power Cables.

I am suspecting this to be rip off, need some urgent guidance please.

[drhoneycake]

Need some suggestions from the audio gurus.

My friend has purchased a Sony XAV-AX3000 AV system for his Tigor. He also has the fascia plate that is required to put in an aftermarket 2-din stereo. The upgrade is solely for the purpose of using android auto.

Now the problem lies in the fact that his tigor model comes with Harman ConnectNext system from the factory. He's extremely satisfied with the sound quality, but needs "Android Auto".

Would this be an easy swap ??? Or should we shelve this project altogether ??? The lack of resources online seems to be an issue with TATA cars. (there are no wiring diagrams/compatible harnesses etc. available anywhere. )

Also that this system control some minor functions of the car (like the park assist, follow me headlamps etc.) We would lose that I'm sure.

Need some urgent guidance please.