[saikishor]

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CTRm2...dium=copy_link


Looks like Way2speed is coming up with a mount for the tripper navigation. Seems interesting, but is it really that useful? A simple mobile holder will be a better bet IMHO.

[Whitebear]

Booked Continental GT 650
It was love at first sight
But the waiting period quoted by the showroom is 6-8 months

[RiderZone]

Product: Philips RacingVision H4 bulb

Bought from: Amazon

Recommended to buy?: NO

Why?:

1. Light increase from stock Interceptor headlight is minimal at best, maybe 15-20%. The 150% claim by Philips must be compared to a candle burning a mile away.

2. Had ordered a pack of 2 bulbs, one for a friend, and the bulbs were packed badly, probably bumped into each other a few times on the way. They were working, and we didn't have time for replacements, so we used them.

3. The low beam filament on my bulb died within one week of use. High beam still worked. This bulb already claims only about 200 hours of life, which is bad with the always-on design of the Interceptor light. However, the 7 days of use while alive was in Spiti, the bumps sure did not help the life.

Verdict: For 800 something bucks, the light increase is not worth the money, certainly not with the reduced longevity. Better to go with an LED or entire headlight unit change.

My 2019 Interceptor headlight design is also bad for this bulb, the glass section is purposely less transparent than the newer Interceptors. I don't quite understand why, seems like trying to give yourself a cataract by choice. In my friend's 2021 Interceptor, the light increase was maybe 25-30%. Still not worth it in my opinion. If for some reason you must get this bulb, you may also need to install an additional switch to turn off the always-on light, otherwise the life will be a joke, and not a funny one.

[amol4184]

Originally Posted by RiderZone

Product: Philips RacingVision H4 bulb

Bought from: Amazon

Recommended to buy?: NO

My conclusion after trying at least 3 brands is that the bulbs that make such claims are all vaporware at this point. They simply do not exist. These are the same garden variety bulbs wearing fancy monikers and colors.

Have pent extravagant amount on Osram and Phillips bulbs that made absolutely no difference in illumination. Not just the brightness, even the color claims are complete BS.
I now have 3-4 sets of various bulbs in my car's glovebox - all working fine, used for 2-3 hour outings before removing and cursing myself.

None of those beat simplest and cheapest 100/90 bulb upgrade.

[RiderZone]

Originally Posted by amol4184

None of those beat simplest and cheapest 100/90 bulb upgrade.

Perhaps I'm confused, do you mean a 100/90 bulb in the Interceptor? Not sure if the system can handle the power.

[blogrboy]

Hi All,

I am getting a continuous whistling sound from the fuel pump of my 3 months old Interceptor 650 BS6. Is there anyone else facing similar issues? Is it alarming enough to take to the service center? Also, as the petrol is consumed, the sound increases and once the petrol is filled, the sound reduces but does not go away completely.

Any help is appreciated.

[amol4184]

Originally Posted by RiderZone

Perhaps I'm confused, do you mean a 100/90 bulb in the Interceptor? Not sure if the system can handle the power.

Apologies. Should have mentioned this was for my car. I was just pointing out that none of these outrageous claim bulbs do what they say on the fancy packing.

[kanahanin]

Anyone looking for a tank pad for interceptor can get the linked AOW one for cheap. The only work you have to put is replacing the dual-sided tape with a genuine 3M one. The dual-sided tape they come with is completely useless and will peel off in a day or two. The rubber quality is good though. So if you are ready to put in the additional effort it's worth it IMO. The 3m attachment tape is 142 or something in local shops.

My baker express looks better with the tank pads. Without it, the tank section feels empty and looks like it's missing something.

https://www.amazon.in/3M-Attachment-.../dp/B07WZRSYJM

https://aowbikes.com/product/aowbike...v=a98eef2a3105

[rituj]

So I went for my first paid service and found out that the bearings on my chain are giving out. So its eating faster on the sprockets, especially the front one. Also the mechanic was unable to set the slack of the chain as he showed to me that at some places the chain had adequate slack while at others it was very tight.
I feel this is due to me not washing the bike frequently (only waxing and wiping with cloth) and a lot of dust being deposited on the chain itself to the point that after the wash seeing the chain I was taken a back by the shine and real colour of it. Although i did apply chain clean and lube every 500kms but I guess there shouldn't be any dust for the lube to actually work.

So I have 4 options for replacement:
1) stock oem chain and sprocket kit which cost Rs 4200 surprisingly.
2) rolon brass chain and sprocket kit - Rs 3800 approx
3) rolon normal chain and sprocket kit - Rs. 3500
4) rk brass chain and sprocket kit - Rs 4650

I was of the opinion that oem chain kit would be much cheaper than after market ones, but anyways, do let me know what are your thoughts on which one I should go for.

[deepfreak15]

Originally Posted by rituj

.. showed to me that at some places the chain had adequate slack while at others it was very tight.
I feel this is due to me not washing the bike frequently (only waxing and wiping with cloth) and a lot of dust being deposited on the chain itself to the point that after the wash seeing the chain I was taken a back by the shine and real colour of it. Although i did apply chain clean and lube every 500kms but I guess there shouldn't be any dust for the lube to actually work.

I was of the opinion that oem chain kit would be much cheaper than after market ones, but anyways, do let me know what are your thoughts on which one I should go for.

Something doesn't add up. How many Kms have you run with that chain and sprockets? Do you ride frequently in mud/slush, do you live near the sea etc? Not washing your motorcycle has nothing to do with chain developing tight spots, especially if you periodically clean and lube them. Have you ever removed your sprockets or rear wheel? Misaligned sprockets can cause tight spots.
Don't be surprised about the cost of some parts, the RE Twins do have premium components, for eg the brake discs and pads are Brembo and not Bybre, I wouldn't be surprised if the chain and sprockets are of a similar brand. If I were you I'd try to find out why it developed a tight spot in the first place.

[rituj]

Originally Posted by deepfreak15

Something doesn't add up. How many Kms have you run with that chain and sprockets? Do you ride frequently in mud/slush, do you live near the sea etc? Not washing your motorcycle has nothing to do with chain developing tight spots, especially if you periodically clean and lube them. Have you ever removed your sprockets or rear wheel? Misaligned sprockets can cause tight spots.
Don't be surprised about the cost of some parts, the RE Twins do have premium components, for eg the brake discs and pads are Brembo and not Bybre, I wouldn't be surprised if the chain and sprockets are of a similar brand. If I were you I'd try to find out why it developed a tight spot in the first place.

I have only run 9k kms in 2 years. The bike has only been to Jaipur and Gurgaon throughout this timeframe. And I use it for daily commute on public roads, where we can find some dirt and puddles occasionally but nothing excessive.

I got my front sprocket changed to a larger one (+1 teeth) about 3k kms back, I always feel like how do these mechanics know if the rear wheel is completely straight, I don't see them worrying about that too much and I find it weird and have always had a gut feeling that they never get it right. How can I check this and align the wheel myself?

[deepfreak15]

Originally Posted by rituj

I got my front sprocket changed to a larger one (+1 teeth) about 3k kms back, I always feel like how do these mechanics know if the rear wheel is completely straight, I don't see them worrying about that too much and I find it weird and have always had a gut feeling that they never get it right. How can I check this and align the wheel myself?

Aha! That would explain it. Sorry sir, thats beyond my DIY skills or aptitude, recommendation would be to find a "professional" (in quotes because you may not find them even in the authorised service center). I know there is a string method to find wheel alignment but no idea how to check or correct sprocket alignment. At least now you know if this isn't corrected replacing your chain will only lead you to the same issue again.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by rituj

How can I check this and align the wheel myself?

When doing engine swaps the means of checking that the front sprocket and rear sprocket are properly aligned to each other is by pulling a string from the side surface of one sprocket to the side surface of the other and then ensuring that there is perfect contact between the string and sprocket.

However is it really necessary on a stock motorcycle is the question you need to be asking yourself.

Regards,
A.P.

[Urban_Nomad]

Originally Posted by rituj

How can I check this and align the wheel myself?

Use a simple tool like this - https://shop.motousher.com/products/...alignment-tool

Its extremely easy to use and completely takes the guesswork out of the process

Here's a video on how to use it

https://youtu.be/uDmn-zngFRY

[catkins]

Originally Posted by deepfreak15

I know there is a string method to find wheel alignment but no idea how to check or correct sprocket alignment.

Sprocket alignment can't be corrected independently of wheel alignment unless the sprockets have been fitted out of alignment which is very unlikely.

For present purposes (chain trashed in 9k kilometres) either of two alignment methods are good enough:

• From the workshop manual "Ensure the lines are matched with the lines punched in swing arm on both LH & RH side for proper wheel alignment". There's a diagram in the Owners Manual in the Rear Wheel Removal section showing a single line on the swing arm and multiple parallel lines on the axle block which slides within the swing arm
• Remove the chain guard and see how the rear sprocket and chain are aligned. Rotate the rear wheel slowly by hand and watch how the rear sprocket teeth engage in the chain. They should contact nicely on the rollers with very little contact on the links

But it is unlikely that misalignment has trashed the chain. Given that few if any other owners have complained about premature chain wear in this thread, that the chain has stretched unevenly and that rituj has changed the front sprocket, the most likely explanation is a defective or badly fitted front sprocket.