[corvus corax]

Have you checked the fuel system? A clogged vent tube from the fuel tank, water seeping into the tank because of a broken fuel cap seal, a clogged fuel filter can cause these issues.
Also, see if the brass screw shown in the picture, which are on both sides, are set in the same number of turns. If they are different that can also cause erratic idle rpms.

[2StrokeJunkie]

Originally Posted by carsandcaffeine

They apparently did check the ignition system and the plugs last time and told me everything was 'normal'. I've also been facing occasional mild startup issues, like a small hiccup, before the engine fires to life. I'd also like to know how much it would cost me to get the ignition coil replaced at an FNG, because if the service center cannot do anything about it, that will be my last option, despite my bike being under warranty.

Change relays - use the new 4-pin ones from the Hunter/J series and revert.

[2legit2quit]

Originally Posted by carsandcaffeine

They apparently did check the ignition system and the plugs last time and told me everything was 'normal'. I've also been facing occasional mild startup issues, like a small hiccup, before the engine fires to life. I'd also like to know how much it would cost me to get the ignition coil replaced at an FNG, because if the service center cannot do anything about it, that will be my last option, despite my bike being under warranty.

Hey man, I checked out a few of your older issues with your 650. See if this video helps you out

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jXVfVnQGIas

[subincb]

Originally Posted by carsandcaffeine

They apparently did check the ignition system and the plugs last time and told me everything was 'normal'. I've also been facing occasional mild startup issues, like a small hiccup, before the engine fires to life. I'd also like to know how much it would cost me to get the ignition coil replaced at an FNG, because if the service center cannot do anything about it, that will be my last option, despite my bike being under warranty.

Could there be any damaged wire causing short circuit? Did you install or change any lights? Can you check when in paddock stand if there is any voltage fluctuations happening?. May be stupid comment but i had a similar issue in another bike.

[carsandcaffeine]

Originally Posted by subincb

Could there be any damaged wire causing short circuit? Did you install or change any lights? Can you check when in paddock stand if there is any voltage fluctuations happening?. May be stupid comment but i had a similar issue in another bike.

I haven't installed any additional electrical component on my bike yet. I'm suspecting it's an issue with the ignition system as there are very mild occasional hiccups during startups. It vibrates a more than the other Interceptors I've ridden and is noticeably slower. While it is able to maintain 120 km/h, it takes a little longer to get there.

[subincb]

Originally Posted by carsandcaffeine

I haven't installed any additional electrical component on my bike yet. I'm suspecting it's an issue with the ignition system as there are very mild occasional hiccups during startups. It vibrates a more than the other Interceptors I've ridden and is noticeably slower. While it is able to maintain 120 km/h, it takes a little longer to get there.

Mine was kind of similar issue on single cyclinder. So we first checked with an ignition coil from another friends bike and still issue persisted later found that it was alternator problem.

[sandeepmohan]

Originally Posted by carsandcaffeine

In the 7 months I've had my bike I've paid atleast 30 visits to different service centers regarding the issues that I've been facing and none of them were able to come up with a permanent solution. The fixes work for a month, after which the bike goes back to 'normal'.

You need to escalate this matter to Royal Enfield or speak to someone senior at the dealership or at RE. You can't be running around like this.

This is poor diagnosis more than anything else. It feels as though they are reluctant to claim for warranty repairs due to laziness or lack of interest. Maybe its a case of the dealer not being paid for the job when you claim a warranty repair.

You should pull out both spark plugs and check for yourself if they are wet. Should give you a hint of what could be the problem and if the dealer has reported accurately. If they are wet, its a sign of insufficient spark or too much fuel going in. Unlikely to be the latter as its fuel injected but just putting it out there in case there is a issue with the fueling system.

Check your battery voltage and if the terminals are secure. Remove and refit every electrical relay. Most are accessible under the seat and side box. Even moisture can make the bike act weird so be good to check there is no water ingress anywhere. This bike does not like water one bit and it does not take much for water to reach under the seat, which is where all the electricals are located.

[Somil07]

I've heard a lot of front end wobbles at high speeds (e.g. 80+) but my issue seems a bit peculiar. I get wobbles at speeds of around 60-80 due to which the handlebar feels as if it's on a bumpy uneven surface and it disappears at 90ish and above. I was suspecting a wheel balancing issue and to my surprise, there are 100s of shops doing alignment/balancing for cars but none for motorcycle, wonder how hard can it be to do the same job on motorcycle's wheel!

Anyway, anyone faced such an issue or know of any workarounds?

[Karthik.guru]

Originally Posted by Somil07

I've heard a lot of front end wobbles at high speeds (e.g. 80+) but my issue seems a bit peculiar. I get wobbles at speeds of around 60-80 due to which the handlebar feels as if it's on a bumpy uneven surface and it disappears at 90ish and above. I was suspecting a wheel balancing issue and to my surprise, there are 100s of shops doing alignment/balancing for cars but none for motorcycle, wonder how hard can it be to do the same job on motorcycle's wheel!

Anyway, anyone faced such an issue or know of any workarounds?

I was surprised by the same thing when trying to resolve the same issue on my Duke a few years ago. Came across absolutely 0 shops who balance motorcycle wheels!
On a side note, it turned out that it wasn't a balancing issue but a very small dent in my front wheel. Maybe check your wheels for dents or small bends

[sandeepmohan]

Originally Posted by Somil07

Anyway, anyone faced such an issue or know of any workarounds?

Most owners who have run into this problem have found peace after changing the front tire, more than anything else. Especially with those stock Pirelli one's. I had them and I did run into this issue but I could reproduce the problem consistently. It was there on some roads surface, non existent on others. Makes it almost impossible to diagnose. I did not pursue the matter with the dealer as I would have run in circles. No wheel truing was required either. However; the need to do this depends on how much abuse your bike is subject to. If you encounter bad roads frequently, there maybe a need to true the wheel rim once a year or once every couple of years.

If there is a rim bend, you will feel a wobble or some instability at just about any speed. It does magically surface at a specific speed.

[carsandcaffeine]

Originally Posted by sandeepmohan

You need to escalate this matter to Royal Enfield or speak to someone senior at the dealership or at RE. You can't be running around like this.

This is poor diagnosis more than anything else. It feels as though they are reluctant to claim for warranty repairs due to laziness or lack of interest. Maybe its a case of the dealer not being paid for the job when you claim a warranty repair.

You should pull out both spark plugs and check for yourself if they are wet. Should give you a hint of what could be the problem and if the dealer has reported accurately. If they are wet, its a sign of insufficient spark or too much fuel going in. Unlikely to be the latter as its fuel injected but just putting it out there in case there is a issue with the fueling system.

Check your battery voltage and if the terminals are secure. Remove and refit every electrical relay. Most are accessible under the seat and side box. Even moisture can make the bike act weird so be good to check there is no water ingress anywhere. This bike does not like water one bit and it does not take much for water to reach under the seat, which is where all the electricals are located.

I got the bike back and it's smoother than before, pulls cleaner and just feels much more refined. The fluctuations in the RPM, however, are still there and since everything including the plugs and coils were checked and were confirmed to be okay, I'm suspecting the culprit is the EVAP system. I might do an EVAP delete and run it for some days to see if there's any difference.

[jomson13]

Originally Posted by GreyNomad

I’ve seen this novatronix plug and play fix on bully biker’s YT channel but I’m unsure how it’ll play with the headlamp if I change it to Maddog HR70.

I didn’t know about this ‘2 throttle lines’ of the Interceptor. Could you explain a bit more on their functionality and how the trade off might harm the motorcycle?

As long as you don't change the wiring I don't think the headlamp change would affect the novatronix operation. The assumption here is that the nova is rated for the higher current which the maddog may pull.

2 throttle lines - I haven't seen or checked these cables in detail on my bike but this is a guess on how they work:
When you open the throttle, one cable is connected so that its spring compresses and pushes against your action of opening the throttle.
At the same time the other cable spring would be in tension and would be pulling the throttle back once you take your hand off the throttle.

I don't know why you need two cables here when one can do the job (as seen in smaller capacity bikes)
I think it has something to do with the size of the mechanism involved - maybe a single spring is not enough to operate it smoothly.

On a recent ride, a friends interceptor developed a problem of the throttle getting stuck, it would not return to close if you wring it open and leave it. I am guessing the return cable on his bike is broken.

Hope this helps.

[ishan12]

Originally Posted by Somil07

I've heard a lot of front end wobbles at high speeds (e.g. 80+) but my issue seems a bit peculiar. I get wobbles at speeds of around 60-80 due to which the handlebar feels as if it's on a bumpy uneven surface and it disappears at 90ish and above. I was suspecting a wheel balancing issue and to my surprise, there are 100s of shops doing alignment/balancing for cars but none for motorcycle, wonder how hard can it be to do the same job on motorcycle's wheel!

Anyway, anyone faced such an issue or know of any workarounds?

I had this wobbling problem at around 80kph, above and below this speed the bike was stable. Got multiple things done including cone set replacement under warranty, front tyre change under warranty, balancing, trueing etc but nothing worked.
My bike had the Pirelli stock tyres, changed to Ralcos a couple of months ago and the wobbling issue is entirely gone.
If you are in Pune and want to get the balancing done for your bike, Sai Krupa tyres in Wakad does that.

[Somil07]

Originally Posted by ishan12

I had this wobbling problem at around 80kph, above and below this speed the bike was stable. Got multiple things done including cone set replacement under warranty, front tyre change under warranty, balancing, trueing etc but nothing worked.
My bike had the Pirelli stock tyres, changed to Ralcos a couple of months ago and the wobbling issue is entirely gone.
If you are in Pune and want to get the balancing done for your bike, Sai Krupa tyres in Wakad does that.

I got the balancing done from Prabhat tyres (Pune) but the issue is still there. I see mostly people who had the wobbling issue was due to Pirelli tyres but I have CEAT ones which are about to touch 10k km mark. I would be visiting Sadguru service station this week for service and this issue.

[GreyNomad]

Originally Posted by jomson13

As long as you don't change the wiring I don't think the headlamp change would affect the novatronix operation. The assumption here is that the nova is rated for the higher current which the maddog may pull.

2 throttle lines - I haven't seen or checked these cables in detail on my bike but this is a guess on how they work:
When you open the throttle, one cable is connected so that its spring compresses and pushes against your action of opening the throttle.
At the same time the other cable spring would be in tension and would be pulling the throttle back once you take your hand off the throttle.

I don't know why you need two cables here when one can do the job (as seen in smaller capacity bikes)
I think it has something to do with the size of the mechanism involved - maybe a single spring is not enough to operate it smoothly.

On a recent ride, a friends interceptor developed a problem of the throttle getting stuck, it would not return to close if you wring it open and leave it. I am guessing the return cable on his bike is broken.

Hope this helps.

Thank you jomson13. I got meself an immaculately maintained pre loved Interceptor from a TBHPian. Will post a review of the entire experience after I put on a few more miles on it.

As of now, have put the nova and aux lights on hold. Want to understand the bike a bit better before I start tinkering with electricals.