[carsandcaffeine]

Originally Posted by carsandcaffeine

I got the bike back and it's smoother than before, pulls cleaner and just feels much more refined. The fluctuations in the RPM, however, are still there and since everything including the plugs and coils were checked and were confirmed to be okay, I'm suspecting the culprit is the EVAP system. I might do an EVAP delete and run it for some days to see if there's any difference.

A little situation update. 3 days ago I went to Yelahanka and on the way back the bike started behaving very erratically. The throttle response was terrible and the RPM kept fluctuating and dipping below 1000. Took it to an FNG because I was tired of requesting the service center to open up the throttle body unit and the injectors and clean them. The issue was diagnosed to be water ingress in the fuel tank, which subsequently made it's way to the throttle body and the fuel injection system. I honestly don't have an idea how that happened. Is there any way I can prevent the same from happening in the future? Thanks in advance

[corvus corax]

The issue was diagnosed to be water ingress in the fuel tank, which subsequently made it's way to the throttle body and the fuel injection system. I honestly don't have an idea how that happened. Is there any way I can prevent the same from happening in the future?

This would be of help.

https://youtu.be/ddGeQ38yQlM

[surjaonwheelz]

Originally Posted by corvus corax

This would be of help.

This community is so strong that it strikes you when it's being discussed!


I was facing this fuel lid rubber gasket cut issue for the second time on the warranty replaced lock-set! I was not in the mood to claim warranty again and have a new set of locks and keys. I experienced fuel spillage while crossing (bouncing) over an ill-designed speed breaker.


Roadpower Customs (RPC) was the only option but is was out of stock. I kept in touch with them for stock updates. When it was restocked at a higher price, I was like 1,000 bucks for a rubber gasket?






Ordered it after a few days! The rubber was supple and felt better.

It was a simple DIY, taking out the metal lock ring was the only job, rest is very easy.


Pro-tip: Mark the ring for alignment before removing, as the notches are not uniformly pressed


Once the old rubber is out, replace it with the new one.




Tested with tank full fuel, no spillage

Now when a third party vendor can get this made, why can't the Royal Enfield make it available as a spare?

Happy riding,
surjaonwheelz

[2legit2quit]

I recently replaced my stock pirelli's with Ralco Speed blasters and I thought this occasion deserved a nice little trail riding session. Joining me was a friend who has gotten back to biking after a good 3-4 years on his stock r15 v2.

I know both these bikes aren't the best offroad and weren't designed for this use case but I find it incredibly fun to do things on vehicles that they weren't designed to do!

That being said, hope you guys enjoy the pictures!

[surjaonwheelz]

Originally Posted by jomson13

2 throttle lines - I haven't seen or checked these cables in detail on my bike but this is a guess on how they work:
When you open the throttle, one cable is connected so that its spring compresses and pushes against your action of opening the throttle.
At the same time the other cable spring would be in tension and would be pulling the throttle back once you take your hand off the throttle.

Open the right hand intake cover to see the mechanism as you've rightly described above.

Originally Posted by jomson13

On a recent ride, a friends interceptor developed a problem of the throttle getting stuck, it would not return to close if you wring it open and leave it. I am guessing the return cable on his bike is broken.

I didn't join that ride but I was facing similar issue, the return (closing of throttle) was not smooth! I also assumed the same (broken return cable) and was able to ride on the single cable.


On removing the old cable the culprit found was rust due to which the return cable was stuck at the handlebar side.

Now the twist, this throttle cable was not easily available in my part of the city. I checked with my FNG, who couldn't source it from his RE parts distributor. I also checked with one RE Authorized Service centre (Platinum Auto), they also didn't have it in stock. RE 650 twin parts saga continues!

After my weekend DIY session, didn't feel confident to ride in traffic with a snatchy throttle. So was not able to visit other service centres to check the cable in person. I was also a bit lazy to check and fix the issue earlier.

I realized, RSA can be availed for this issue. In the RE App, there is an option of 'Cut/Stuck throttle cable'. Raised the ticket and selected, bike is parked at home/office. Received a call from RSA call centre verifying the details. I had zero expectations from RSA, had my lunch and enjoyed my afternoon weekend nap!

To my surprise, I received a call from Dhone Auto (Viman Nagar) saying they're coming with the new throttle cable.


They replaced the cable and problem solved! As it was raised through RSA, only the spares cost was charged, Rs. 300/- Labour charges were included. Case closed. I insisted on tip or some tea/snacks but they humbly declined. I was impressed!

Questions: Why only the return cable was rusted? Water/moisture ingress in one only cable? RE should check if this a common issue. I ride in the rains as long as visibility is not an issue. I pressure wash my bike very less!

PS. As I've angled handlebar risers, routed the new cable outside the RHS fork.


Went for a Sunday ride on a sunny day! Spitfire is 2 years 8 months young, Odo reads 13,500+ kms only

Happy riding,
surjaonwheelz

[corvus corax]

Now when a third party vendor can get this made, why can't the Royal Enfield make it available as a spare?

Oops! 🤭

The rubber was supple and felt better.

I have been using it for two years now. No issues at all! Worth every lock set we were supposed to change every year!

Now when a third party vendor can get this made, why can't the Royal Enfield make it available as a spare?

That, my brother, is a million dollar question!

[nasirkaka]

During late 2020 - early 2021, i had this intermittent ' low battery warning light coming on' on my bike. The frequency of the same increased with time and eventually on a highway ride, the bike refused to start post a break at a toll. Managed to push start the bike and gave it to Teknik service @ Bangalore. They took their own time, sent battery for some testing to excide, and eventually post 2 weeks, returned the bike with a new battery and also mentioned changing some other component ( i am guessing it could be RR unit). Post that the issue got resolved....


....or so i thought. About a year later, the low battery sign came on again. and its been a few months since the first time it showed up again. In the last few months the frequency of battery warning light coming on is increasing to the affect that now a days it comes on almost every time i ride the bike. The horn feels noticeably weak and i can sense some hesitation while starting the bike. Must add that i have a pair of aux lights which have been connected property with a good quality harness and relay etc. I rarely use the aux lights, so doubt if it would be the cause esp for an 14 amp battery.

On multimeter testing last week, the battery showed 12.3 V and on starting engine and revving a bit it goes upto 13.9V. I am suspecting something is not letting the battery charge all the time and that is the reason the bike/battery is not died for months but slowly showing signs on weakness.

I am guessing the RR unit could be the issue. Wonder why it was placed in a weird inaccessible location with reduced airflow for natural cooling. Anyone else had similar issues and could point out some directions to troubleshoot? I guess my bike would also be out of warranty now.

[Somil07]

Originally Posted by Somil07

I got the balancing done from Prabhat tyres (Pune) but the issue is still there. I see mostly people who had the wobbling issue was due to Pirelli tyres but I have CEAT ones which are about to touch 10k km mark. I would be visiting Sadguru service station this week for service and this issue.

Okay, so visited the svc center and they suggested the rims might be in need of truing so went to a guy in Kk market for the same and got it done yesterday. Still need to test it at 80+ speed to check if there's any front end wobble. If this doesn't work, my final suspect would be the tyres themselves unless there are any other suggestions.

PS: Somehow I think this old style spoked rims and tube tyres just don't go with this motorcycle's capabilities and character. Eagerly waiting for new 650 launches which might bring some replacement alloys for my Interceptor as well.

[sandeepmohan]

Originally Posted by nasirkaka

Anyone else had similar issues and could point out some directions to troubleshoot? I guess my bike would also be out of warranty now.

I have been experiencing a Low Battery alert for the last 6 months. I have ignored it even though I still have a warranty. I will need to leave the bike with the one dealer who deals with Royal Enfield. They will have to coordinate with Royal Enfield in India to investigate and sort it out. It can take weeks. The two Uber trips I need take is going to cost as much as a new battery so I decided to leave things as is. I use a battery charger to top it up every few weeks. The experience sounds similar to yours, though I have yet to face a situation of the bike not starting at all.

In my case, the idle battery voltage reported as low as 12.33 volts. The bike started without issue even in this state. Upon cranking the voltage dropped as low as 9.88 volts and recovered in a matter of seconds and not exceeding 12.26 volts with the engine idling. I did not rev it to see if the voltage was increasing, which will give you an indicator if the alternator or charging system is working or it.

My gut tells me the charging system and related circuit is fine. If there really was a problem with the charging circuit, no battery will last a year. It will discharge faster.

On the other hand, 2020 Interceptors sold in New Zealand have a permanent ON headlamp and tail light. I suspect this constant load is leading to reduced battery life, even though the bike was supplied with an AGM battery which are known to last longer.

Before pulling out and replacing any relays, measure the charging voltage. From the numbers you report, the charging system is doing its job.

Check for any low voltage power draw from the auxiliary light circuit. It could be a small power leak or as they say for electric cars, a phantom drain, where the battery discharges slowly and under no load. Technically, your lights are switched off but somewhere along the circuit, there is a leak.

[nasirkaka]

I have been experiencing a Low Battery alert for the last 6 months.

This low battery warning issue is quite a common one here and many in our Bangalore 650 twins whatsapp group have faced it. But there is not been any definite cause or fix for the same. In my case, i doubt if its battery issue as first battery was replaced and new battery is just over a year old. Also i have been using the bike regularly so cant be a case of lying idle.

Before pulling out and replacing any relays, measure the charging voltage. From the numbers you report, the charging system is doing its job.

in some cases here, the issue was related to RR unit, and replacing that has fixed the same. I was thinking of replacing the same to check if that is the issue. I do have a pair of aux light on the bike, but many have had this issue where the bike is bone stock without any electrical mods.

Check for any low voltage power draw from the auxiliary light circuit. It could be a small power leak or as they say for electric cars, a phantom drain, where the battery discharges slowly and under no load. Technically, your lights are switched off but somewhere along the circuit, there is a leak.

This could be one realistic possibility as the drain is slow and battery lasts for many months even with low warning sign coming on intermittently. Is there any way to find out if there is a leak and whether at the aux lights or somewhere else?

[Somil07]

Hey guys! The twins are known to be vibe-free but I notice them on handlebar and footpegs above speeds of 80 kph when the needle starts climbing towards 4000 rpm. Is that usual with 650s or is it just me?

[surjaonwheelz]

Engine oil change at FNG

I have covered around 4k kms since the last oil change in the beginning of this year. Read details here (Ridden: Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 & Continental GT 650 Twin)

I always wanted to change the stock RE synthetic oil to something available off the shelf.

Synthetic Oil options for 10W 50: (Budget group)
Motul 7100 - the best tried & tested option in my opinion
Castrol Power1 Ultimate - too much promotions and influenced choice!



Shell Advance Long ride - I had purchased a bottle of this from Shell bunk (petrol pump), hence purchased 3 litres more and used 3.1L for oil change with new oil filter. Not many know about this oil.

The above opinion is purely personal and nothing technical about it. The only good thing I found on the Shell oil is that it's mentioned oil change interval is upto 6k kms and not boasting of some unrealistic figures!

There are many more exotic (read costly) oils like LiquiMoly, Silkolene, Amsoil whose effectiveness is beyond my comprehension and usage!




The oil change process was held up by the oil filter procurement by my FNG. I didn't push him much but he said it was not easily available!

I carried out the process at my FNG so that there is no mess of collecting the used oil and also I didn't have the oil filter removal tool which my FNG purchased as his investment.




The process in steps:
- Warm the engine (short ride to the garage)
- Cool it a bit, the down pipes can burn your hands
- Remove the bash plate (I've the OEM one)
- Remove the drain bolt and drain the old oil
- Remove the old oil filter
- Clean the dripping oil marks
- Put some oil in the new filter ring for better sealing! (practice)
- Fit the new oil filter
- Refit the drain plug with the aluminum washer (some replace this washer everytime)
- Open the filler cap and pour in 3.1L fresh oil (some say to keep the filler cap open during the oil drain process)
- Check the oil level at the window after you start the engine and allow the oil to settle.
- Check for leaks and refit the bash plate and you're ready to roll



Next day I had to battle city traffic only and no open stretches but new oil is always sweet to ride!

RE recommends 1 year or 10k kms oil change interval for the 650 twins, I wanted to change the oil hence did this. But I think 6k kms is more than enough to change the oil. My odo is nearing 14k kms.

Costs:
- Shell long ride 3x874 = 2,622
- Oil filter - 450
- Labour - 250
------------------------------------
Total = 3,322/-
------------------------------------

RE synthetic oil is the most cost effective at less than 600 bucks per litre! Shell has increased the price of this (long ride) oil to 920 recently.

Happy riding,
surjaonwheelz

[bsenroy]

Hi folks, need some help. Planning to purchase the Int 650 (or the Super Meteor 650 if they launch it next month and i like the look of it), and it would be great if you guys could help me out with the following queries:

1. I live in Noida, but office is in Delhi, so in terms of better dealers (service experience, etc), where should i buy from?
2. What is the current wait time for Int 650
3. Is it better to buy from the brand store or from pvt dealerships?
4. Anyone aware of what kind of financing options are available?

[Karthik.guru]

Greetings chaps!
Decided to finally bite the bullet and get myself a used INT650. The only ones I can find in my city in my desired price range (~2 lakhs) have run more than 20,000km. Apart from the usual battery, tires and chain wear, what else should I be looking at when inspecting the bikes? Would also greatly appreciate it if someone could tell me what the service manual says for mandatory work to be carried out around the 20K mark.

Cheers!

[adrift@life]

Good day folks, i own a 2019 orange crush interceptor. Due to my work nature the bike has spent almost 18 months of layup, i always take the layup precautions and my ride is currently at 8000kms. I am happy to report i have never faced majority of the issues reported here, touch wood. any minor niggles have been immediately sorted. i do have the infamous wobble right now, but i hope changing tyres when they are due would sort them out. Meanwhile maintaining accurate pressure has helped keep it in control.
The accessories are all royal enfield accessories. Only I replaced the the tall flyscreen to puig retro vision, which was a reccommendation by bhpian Neil.jericho on the forum. Not tested highway manners yet but the looks complement the bike.
The only modifications was the seat from rao seats from bangalore another recommendation from nasirkaka, based it out of his bakerexpress seat modification. I ve based all my automobile decisions from team bhp and only recently got approved to be a member.
Coming to the bike i have loved my time on it. Its the only bike i have ridded above 200cc. triumph street twin was going to be my big bike purchase but after test riding this i felt this was such a value proposition and i never sell my automobiles and this felt like a keeper.
To all those who are on the fence about this bike i recommend it, just my two cents on it.
Happy motoring.