[avisidhu]

Guys I'm facing a strange issue since the past one month. In the morning when I start my bike, it starts fine but then starts behaving as if it is gasping for air, and then shuts after a few seconds. The same thing happens almost 3-4 times. The moment I try to rev it up, it struggles for a few seconds and then shuts down.

Only after about 5 minutes when the engine has sufficiently warmed up, it starts working fine. I'm not able to figure out why this is so? I thought it's related to air filter, but in that case it should have been problematic for the entire ride, not the initial 5 minutes.
The only significant change I did recently was removing the glass wool from the silencer, but that also cannot be the reason for this behavior, IMO.

The local mechanic says it is expected due to the onset of cold weather, but I'm not willing to buy that argument either. Any tips on what to check will be much appreciated.

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by avisidhu

The local mechanic says it is expected due to the onset of cold weather, but I'm not willing to buy that argument either. Any tips on what to check will be much appreciated.

I actually feel that it is due to the cold weather. You can increase the idle speed slightly and re-check the problem.

[avisidhu]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

I actually feel that it is due to the cold weather. You can increase the idle speed slightly and re-check the problem.

Thanks for responding KkVaidya, I will do that once and see if it resolves the issue. However it seems unlikely to me, for the simple reason that even if I keep it revved slightly after starting the bike, even then it sputters and stops after a few seconds, as if its not getting enough air. In fact, the engine stays on for a longer duration if I don't revv it.

Sorry I forgot to mention earlier, mine is a 2009 Electra 5S(without electric start).

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by avisidhu

In fact, the engine stays on for a longer duration if I don't revv it.

Did you check the battery condition? Could be a weak spark. could be.

[The Great]

Originally Posted by avisidhu

Guys I'm facing a strange issue since the past one month. In the morning when I start my bike, it starts fine but then starts behaving as if it is gasping for air, and then shuts after a few seconds. The same thing happens almost 3-4 times. The moment I try to rev it up, it struggles for a few seconds and then shuts down.

Only after about 5 minutes when the engine has sufficiently warmed up, it starts working fine. I'm not able to figure out why this is so? I thought it's related to air filter, but in that case it should have been problematic for the entire ride, not the initial 5 minutes.
The only significant change I did recently was removing the glass wool from the silencer, but that also cannot be the reason for this behavior, IMO.

The local mechanic says it is expected due to the onset of cold weather, but I'm not willing to buy that argument either. Any tips on what to check will be much appreciated.

This is normal behavior of a bullet after certain years. There is no problem as such with the bike to worry about.

Before starting the engine try compressing and decompressing it a few times.

Also another thing i found out that this happened to my bike only when it was in reserve. May sound strange but try and do the R&D yourself.

A bullet is like a human body.. Everyone is different and so is every bullet. That's what makes it a unique genre of bikekind.

[Thar4x4]

Originally Posted by neo_gr8est1

@Thar4x4
Could you please pm me your phone number? I need to ask you a few questions regarding the stores at Bhawani Peth. For some reason, Im still not allowed the PM feature eventhough I have 26 posts...
I intend to go there today itself so need to sort a few things before.
Thank you.

Sorry didn't saw your post as I was busy in some work, but got your PM as it send a mail too so easy to get alert.

Are you able to find the shop through google link?

Thanks,
Vishal.

[ArizonaJim]

@avisidhu

What you describe is the result of getting too much, not too little air.

When cold weather comes the engine, while it is still cold, wants a richer mixture of fuel/air in order to get it to fully burn when the spark plug ignites it.
The richer fuel mixture is easier to ignite in a cold engine.

During warm weather the engine may start and run just fine at the current carburetor settings but some method of adding a bit more fuel to the air at colder temperatures is needed.

This is the reason the choke or enrichment device on the carburetor is there.
It blocks off some of the air, opens up a special enriching circuit or it raises the fuel metering needle. Any of these will increase the amount of fuel in the air.
On the older automobiles which used a carburetor the carburetor was much more complex than the carburetor on a motorcycle. These automobile carburetors automatically adjust themselves so they always give the proper air/fuel ratio for the given ambient temperature.
This is not the case with a motorcycle carburetor.

I am not familiar with the carburetor on your Royal Enfield but most of them have some sort of enrichment lever. I suggest that you use it after the engine has started.

Once the engine is heated up it will run just fine on the warm weather settings without the enrichment device engaged.

As for your silencers modification, removing the glass packing could easily allow for more air to be passing thru your engine, depending on what you removed and replaced.
If you removed a baffle to get to the packing and did not replace it as it originally was, the silencer would definitely allow more air to pass thru the engine. This will always result in the air/fuel ratio being lean. That is to say, there will be less fuel in the air/fuel mixture.

When a rider changes his/her silencer to a less restrictive one, or they modify the silencer to remove any obstructions inside of it, they always should have their carburetor reset to increase the amount of fuel in the fuel/air mixture.
That is standard operating procedure with motorcycles.

If you choose to not have your carburetor readjusted my suggestion would be to start the engine using the enrichment lever and leave the lever set in this "on" condition until the engine has thoroughly warmed up.

If you use the choke or enrichment lever and the engine starts to chug or stumble because the mixture is too rich, move the lever towards the off or normal position.
I cannot say when this will happen but it will and your ear will tell you when to make the change in the setting.

Good luck and ride safely.

[avisidhu]

Originally Posted by The Great

A bullet is like a human body.. Everyone is different and so is every bullet. That's what makes it a unique genre of bikekind.

Completely agree with you mate! And that makes me wonder how people cope with used RE's must take them quite a while to get used to the nitty gritties involved.

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

@avisidhu
What you describe is the result of getting too much, not too little air.

Thanks Jim, that does make sense! Since dawn is only 6 hours away, I will try keeping the choke on for some time and see if this helps. Since the behavior of the bike was similar to what one experiences if the choke is left on, I presumed lack of air, never thought it might be the other way around!

[ricky_1605]

Hey guys I have a 2002 RE Thunderbird. Recently I have noticed that the ride quality of my bike is stiffer than my friend's Electra. I was riding his Electra and I noticed that it goes over small bumps here and there very easily and after that I rode my bike on the same road i could feel every bump. There is no leakage from the shockers. Please suggest what could be the reason and how it can be resolved.

Thanks

[john doe]

Originally Posted by ricky_1605

Hey guys I have a 2002 RE Thunderbird. Recently I have noticed that the ride quality of my bike is stiffer than my friend's Electra. I was riding his Electra and I noticed that it goes over small bumps here and there very easily and after that I rode my bike on the same road i could feel every bump. There is no leakage from the shockers. Please suggest what could be the reason and how it can be resolved.

Thanks

Brother, start with checking the tyre pressure. Many problems can be tracked down to this most simple of variables.

[vinaydas]

Question:
Does the new electra ES have the same reliable denso starter as the classic?

[jeeva]

Originally Posted by ricky_1605

Hey guys I have a 2002 RE Thunderbird. Recently I have noticed that the ride quality of my bike is stiffer than my friend's Electra

Apart from maintaining the right tyre pressure (front-28psi, rear-30 psi), its probably the shocks that need replacement. Or even if the rear shocks at kept at its maximum height, the ride gets harsh and bumpy. You can use hydraulic oil in the front forks instead of the normal mineral oil (Castrol and the likes). Makes a good difference.

[ricky_1605]

Originally Posted by jeeva

Apart from maintaining the right tyre pressure (front-28psi, rear-30 psi), its probably the shocks that need replacement. Or even if the rear shocks at kept at its maximum height, the ride gets harsh and bumpy. You can use hydraulic oil in the front forks instead of the normal mineral oil (Castrol and the likes). Makes a good difference.

I maintain front tyre - 25 psi and rear tyre -35 psi in my bike. Will check the height of rear shocks. I feel bumpy ride from the front and not from the rear. Will get the oil changed in next service as it is near. Is it possible to change the oil without dis-assembling the front tyre and shocks? I think the oil is inserted from the screws near the handlebar right?

[jeeva]

Originally Posted by ricky_1605

Is it possible to change the oil without dis-assembling the front tyre and shocks? I think the oil is inserted from the screws near the handlebar right?

You don't have to dismantle anything to change the fork oil. Yes, you will have to open those two large screws at either sides of the skull and loosen the drain nut at the bottom of the fork to drain out the oil. You might as well want to check the fork bushes too.

[ricky_1605]

Originally Posted by jeeva

You don't have to dismantle anything to change the fork oil. Yes, you will have to open those two large screws at either sides of the skull and loosen the drain nut at the bottom of the fork to drain out the oil. You might as well want to check the fork bushes too.

The bushes are fine as there is no leakage. Will change the oil and revert back.