[vishy76]

Originally Posted by Akshay_Rebel

Hello. So I have always wondered about this noise. I hear about 4 "chic" sounds every time I shutoff the engine. Have you been able to figure out what it is? Right now the car is in the garage because of a play developed in the radiator fan and will have the fan assembly replaced. So if it is the fan it should go away once I get the car back.

Yes it's the radiator fan indeed. In my case some water and dirt had gotten into the bushing. So far there's no play in the bearing itself and the fan works fine too so I have been asked not to touch it. The issue should be solved by a complete fan replacement for sure though I am not having it done. It's been this way for 2 years now IIRC

[Akshay_Rebel]

Originally Posted by vishy76

Yes it's the radiator fan indeed. In my case some water and dirt had gotten into the bushing. So far there's no play in the bearing itself and the fan works fine too so I have been asked not to touch it. The issue should be solved by a complete fan replacement for sure though I am not having it done. It's been this way for 2 years now IIRC

Thank you sir! I should know by tomorrow if the noise goes away. A thing to note, if the noise is a precursor to a play being developed in the fan, then keep a periodic check on the fan. In my case the fan started wobbling so much that it was hitting the air intake pipe which got damaged in the process too. Just something to watch out for

[Mr_Pinkcity]

Hi Friends

I own a 2012 model Jetta, recently one of it's DRL bulb had failed (yellow), please suggest a led replacement and what size of bulb will fit into it.

Regards

[Akshay_Rebel]

Originally Posted by Mr_Pinkcity

Hi Friends

I own a 2012 model Jetta, recently one of it's DRL bulb had failed (yellow), please suggest a led replacement and what size of bulb will fit into it.

Regards

Same here. There seem to be some option online but I am not sure of them. Will let you know if I find something good. Planning to visit some shops this week. I will keep you posted.

[Akshay_Rebel]

Originally Posted by vishy76

Yes it's the radiator fan indeed. In my case some water and dirt had gotten into the bushing. So far there's no play in the bearing itself and the fan works fine too so I have been asked not to touch it. The issue should be solved by a complete fan replacement for sure though I am not having it done. It's been this way for 2 years now IIRC

Quick update, replacing the fan assembly has solved this. No more sound upon shut down. Thank you. Cost about 8K to get it replaced.

[deepeshh]

Thought of sharing my experience of POH decarbonising.

My Jetta TDI DSG has done 94k by now and I came across this decarbonising option from Car Cardiac which uses Oxygen and Hydrogen.

Went through their face book posts and reviews and the customer feedbacks were positive and I decided to give it a try. Yes there is a noticeable difference post this process. I felt more refinement and initial pick up. This decarbonisation process is done by opening the air intake and passing oxygen and hydrogen in some stipulated measure while the car is in idle. The process takes 40 minutes and the excess carbon deposits in the cylinders burns out due to the Hydrogen and is pushed out through the exhaust. Costs Rs.3250/- and definitely worth giving a try especially for vehicles run above 50k. Please note this process does not clean the EGR or air intake manifold.

[icyspikey]

My 2015 Jetta AT has done 90,000 and has developed the infamous DMF chattering noise. I suppose a new LuK flywheel is around the 50k mark.

I was wondering if anybody in the forum has an experience of swapping the DMF with a single mass flywheel? I wouldn't mind a little bit of 'roughness' to the driving experience if there is a significant performance improvement. My map can be re-tuned as well if needed as my tuner offers lifetime support

[vishy76]

Originally Posted by icyspikey

My 2015 Jetta AT has done 90,000 and has developed the infamous DMF chattering noise. I suppose a new LuK flywheel is around the 50k mark.

I was wondering if anybody in the forum has an experience of swapping the DMF with a single mass flywheel? I wouldn't mind a little bit of 'roughness' to the driving experience if there is a significant performance improvement. My map can be re-tuned as well if needed as my tuner offers lifetime support

I would genuinely suggest against this. A DMF to SMF conversion sounds very simple and cost effective at first, but it has a tonne of drawbacks.

Firstly, the DMF is responsible for dampening out any unwanted vibrations from the crank down to the gearbox. As you might have imagined by now, the gearbox has to bear the brunt of torsional forces and vibrations it was never designed to take if you put in an SMF, which is obviously not going to be as effective as a DMF at doing so.

Coming to NVH, saying that an increase in noise levels is bearable is very easy to do. I have read several threads on international forums about DMF to SMF conversions and a common complaint was that the amount of clatter increased substantially at idle. Not sure if that's something one would want on a 2.0 TDI.

Lastly, a genuine LUK flywheel costs anywhere between 28-32K and I think that's a justifiable amount to spend once every 6-7 years or 80-90K km (typical flywheel failure intervals). All said and done, even I am going to spend 50K on a complete clutch overhaul next month and mine is a manual.

If you think VW is overcharging, source the flywheel and get it done from a reputed FNG. I can help you out in sourcing a genuine LUK one. Drop me a PM.

[Aditya]

Originally Posted by vishy76

I can help you out in sourcing a genuine LUK one. Drop me a PM.

Please share such information on the public forum. It will go a long was in helping other BHPians as well. . A PM helps one person, a public post helps thousands (or lakhs).

[vishy76]

Originally Posted by Aditya

Please share such information on the public forum. It will go a long was in helping other BHPians as well. . A PM helps one person, a public post helps thousands (or lakhs).

Sure! I just wanted to confirm with the seller before posting. Here's his contact:

Genuineparts.in

Phone no. 8130400100

[atulanand13]

Originally Posted by vishy76

Sure! I just wanted to confirm with the seller before posting. Here's his contact:

Genuineparts.in

Phone no. 8130400100

Hey Vishy,
Even I am due to change the DMF/entire clutch assembly of my Jetta (2014, TDI, manual, 81k kms) as I have started to hear the clatter from the flywheel while the car is on idle. The clatter is not as disturbing as of now but I guess it will only increase going forward. My clutch has also gotten hard, so I guess that needs a replacement as well.
Therefore, I have a few questions:

1. What are the typical symptoms of a bad DMF?
2. Is the LUK entire clutch assembly (DMF, Clutch, thrust bearing and pressure plate) a good alternative to the one we get from VW? What are the reviews from people who might have got it done in the past? Any idea?
3. What's the worse to worse that can happen to the car if the DMF is not changed at the right time?
4. How much does VW quote for the entire Clutch assemby replacement?

Thanks in advance

[vishy76]

Originally Posted by atulanand13

Hey Vishy,
Even I am due to change the DMF/entire clutch assembly of my Jetta (2014, TDI, manual, 81k kms) as I have started to hear the clatter from the flywheel while the car is on idle. The clatter is not as disturbing as of now but I guess it will only increase going forward. My clutch has also gotten hard, so I guess that needs a replacement as well.
Therefore, I have a few questions:

1. What are the typical symptoms of a bad DMF?
2. Is the LUK entire clutch assembly (DMF, Clutch, thrust bearing and pressure plate) a good alternative to the one we get from VW? What are the reviews from people who might have got it done in the past? Any idea?
3. What's the worse to worse that can happen to the car if the DMF is not changed at the right time?
4. How much does VW quote for the entire Clutch assembly replacement?

Thanks in advance

Hi Atul. My car is also at 83K km and 6 years old. Same symptoms as yours. Hard clutch and the usual noises. Here's symptoms a bad flywheel can exhibit:

- A clattery note at idle. Not an engine misfire but a sound which seems like a bag of bolts has been let loose in the engine bay especially on a cold start

- A lot of chattering and clatteriness when you hold the clutch at its bite point. This is the major symptom to look out for when you suspect the flywheel.

The entire clutch kit and flywheel by LUK comes in at 45K. I contacted the seller I have listed above and my FNG. Both quoted the same amount so you should be able to source it for the same price. The flywheel costs around 25K and the clutch kit (bearing, friction plate and pressure plate) is around 19-20K. I have been quoted 4-5K in labour for this. In a nutshell, you are looking at 50K to replace the entire clutch kit and flywheel at an FNG. Needless to say, replace all of this at the same time since its a very labour intensive task to get to the clutch. The entire front left axle needs to come off IIRC.

Reviews in general are very positive though I have received mixed responses on which is the OEM supplier for VW. I have been told some cars use LUK while others use Sachs. The latter is more difficult to source for FNGs is what I have heard. I will be going in for LUK.

The worse that can happen is the crankshaft oil seal might start weeping due to excessive torsional stress and your gearbox might bear the brunt due to a bad flywheel too. Having said that, these are all failures that happen when the issue assumes a very advanced stage. The noises from the flywheel and the vibrations will become unbearable by then and you would have changed it.

I haven't really looked into what VW charges but it is somewhere in the 70-80K ballpark parts+labour.

[KKapadia]

Originally Posted by Mr_Pinkcity

Hi Friends

I own a 2012 model Jetta, recently one of it's DRL bulb had failed (yellow), please suggest a led replacement and what size of bulb will fit into it.

Regards

Hi its a P21 type bulb or 1156 type in some parts of the world. The Jetta runs a Canbus system which will immediately throw up bulb out warnings the moment you plug in any LED Bulb. Since LED bulbs draw way less current the car will think that the bulb is blown. Make sure you buy branded Canbus error free type bulbs, these bulbs usually have in built resistors to increase the current draw from the system to compensate for the low draw of the LED's. Have used some good ones in my Jetta over the years but if your car is kept running for a few hours everyday eventually in a couple of months/years that adds up to a lot of hours and the inbuilt resistors lose their resistance. The bulbs will still work but the car will throw up bulb out warnings on the dash eventually.

[KKapadia]

Originally Posted by deepeshh

Thought of sharing my experience of POH decarbonising.

My Jetta TDI DSG has done 94k by now and I came across this decarbonising option from Car Cardiac which uses Oxygen and Hydrogen.

Went through their face book posts and reviews and the customer feedbacks were positive and I decided to give it a try. Yes there is a noticeable difference post this process. I felt more refinement and initial pick up. This decarbonisation process is done by opening the air intake and passing oxygen and hydrogen in some stipulated measure while the car is in idle. The process takes 40 minutes and the excess carbon deposits in the cylinders burns out due to the Hydrogen and is pushed out through the exhaust. Costs Rs.3250/- and definitely worth giving a try especially for vehicles run above 50k. Please note this process does not clean the EGR or air intake manifold.

Hydrogen and oxygen decarbonising is basically using water, H2O and can be done for free.An oil change is highly recommended after this. This procedure can also be done at home and is relatively easy to carry out. I usually do this for my diesel cars my X3 30d and my Jetta 2.0 tdi. Its better to follow out an EGR and an intake manifold clean up prior to this in order to achieve the complete results. I use Liqui Moly pro line diesel intake cleaner, available on Amazon for Rs.1600 odd. If your system is cleaned regularly then 1 can of Liqui Moly is good enough for 2 cars, other wise for 1st time use the entire dosage, may be more for very heavily caked intakes.

Word of caution-( Please do not try this if you are not sure what you are doing or not mechanically inclined, you can cause serious damage to your engines, do so only at your own risk, sharing this only with best intentions to help out fellow members)

Just before service is due. Follow the air intake form the air cleaner onwards towards where it meets the engine. Mid way most cars will have a sensor(MAF sensor) on the intake pipe, connected with wires. Dont touch that, keep going up till you see the intake pipe meeting the engine, its usually the mouth of the turbo in todays turbo Diesel engines. The pipe is secured via a clamp which you should take off, safely clean the pipe from outside so that there is no dust around the area, carefully pull it away separating the pipe, making sure you don't drop any lose stuff into the turbo. Next start the car, ask a mate to sit in the car and keep the revs approx 2000 rpm. Spray the Liqui moly intake cleaner directly into the turbo inlet in short bursts of 2-3 seconds, the revs will rise and fall this is normal. Empty the contents over a period of time with the engine continuously running. Once you are done you will visually see as far as your yes can see that the intake is quite clean.

After this treatment its time for the H2O treatment. In a clean empty spray bottle capable of producing a fine spray, fill half a litre of clean tap water. With the engine running the same as before and your mate holding it at 2k rpm, spray the water carefully in short bursts of 2-3 seconds and not more. There might be a slight change in rpms but usually you won't realise it. Once you are done, plug back the intake pipe and secure the clamps. You have decarbonised the engine, cleaned the EGR and the intake. Now the car is ready for an oil change. You will clearly notice the smoothness in the engine even before changing the oil.

( To maintain the condition of the intake and the EGR valve I would highly recommend to install an Oil catch can, I am sure there is a thread somewhere on Tbhp regarding this) Happy Motoring!

[RoadSurfer]

Need help on my 2014 DSG Jetta.
On Saturday before stopping at parking speed, my Steering suddenly became hard as if EPS switched off, AC blower stopped. Then the car stopped and didn't crank at all. I tried to jump start using a friend's car and the car started and I left it to idle. But again within 2-3 mins, the car stopped. My battery was old and hence I changed it the next day with Amaron Pro 74Ah one. The car started immediately and I thought all is good and since my service was due took it to Bro's Auto Hub in HSR. Here again the same thing happened just before I could switch off the engine. AC stopped working, Steering became hard and then when I tried to start the car again, it won't start at all.
Anyone has had similar experience? What can be the reason?
Luckily I had reached the Service station and am awaiting the root cause analysis from them.