[dkaile]

Originally Posted by Red Liner

I recommend a shift to shell ultra fully synthetic or mobil 1. Difference is night and day now.

Will give that a dekko next time around and also post my experience of the 7100. Right now the bike has smoothened out substantially after the oil/filter change which I noticed on the 90 kms journey back home, and I can only attribute it to the engine oil for now. Gear shift too is noticeably smoother.

Cheers...

[Red Liner]

Yes sir, the oil from the factory is mineral if i am not mistaken, at least that was the case in the versys 650. Not that i checked personally and verified it, but was the comment from the service technicians.

[mobike008]

Originally Posted by CrAzY dRiVeR

I paid a 1st service cost of Rs. 4746.14/- for my Versys 650, which included Motul 300V engine oil for Rs 1808.75/- and oil filter for Rs. 563.55/- whereas labour charges were Rs. 1635.55/-

Not to mention that this was during the Bajaj days when service charges were supposedly less.

Oh yeah, those were the golden days of awesome cheapness to owning a superbike

I think i have saved a lot of dollars than all of you. My first service was just 3.9K. Time to go buy a liter class bike with all that money I saved...LOL!

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/superb...ml#post3939676

Originally Posted by dkaile

Just a suggestion based on my personal research, try using Motul 7100 instead of 300V for the Versys..

I have used both and it's really difficult to make out a difference in real-time. Hence, I have stuck to the cheaper of the two (Motul 7100)

Originally Posted by Red Liner

7100 is absolute crap, having used it over 24k kms myself. I agree with you about 300v usage.

I recommend a shift to shell ultra fully synthetic or mobil 1. Difference is night and day now.

Kat : I am curious to know how do you judge the difference between one oil vs. the other. Let us take the example of 7100 vs. Shell Ultra

When you shifted to Shell Ultra your 7100 would have been on it's last legs and you replaced it with Shell Ultra. So what was major difference you saw that you are recommending the Shell so vehemently?

I mean after a regular service with fresh oil, chain and oil lube everyone notices the standard stuff

Smoother engine
Smoother gearshifts
Better Accelaration

So now what else apart from above made you feel that it was due to new oil (Shell)

Sorry for putting you in a spot. Nevertheless, would love to hear you

Originally Posted by Red Liner

Yes sir, the oil from the factory is mineral if i am not mistaken, at least that was the case in the versys 650. Not that i checked personally and verified it, but was the comment from the service technicians.

You are right. We got it with Mineral oil and I did see it with my own peeled out eyes when I followed the entire process during the first oil change (also specifically mentioned in the link in this post)

Note : Request all posting their service updates on this thread to categorically mention which service it is (1st, 2nd, 3rd etc) and kms at which it was done and ofcourse, the price paid. If this is not shared, this thread would not be of much value

[CrAzY dRiVeR]

Bike - Kawasaki
Model - Versys 650
Year - 2016
ODO Reading - 11000 kms
Service interval as per manufacturer - 6000 kms or 6 months
Service Centre - Rideventur, Bangalore.





More details here

[Crankpin]

Originally Posted by Red Liner

7100 is absolute crap, having used it over 24k kms myself. I agree with you about 300v usage.

I recommend a shift to shell ultra fully synthetic or mobil 1. Difference is night and day now.

Fully synthetic, lower viscosity oils are now being recommended almost everywhere. Shell Ultra is excellent!

Mobil 1 would definitely be better than Shell Ultra. Have been using it in my car but yet to try it in the motorcycle.

[sumithb]

Got the first service done for my Triumph Street Twin at Triumph Shaman, Mumbai.

Added OEM short windscreen and front fender extension.

Here's the bill. Total: Rs 18287.89 (Parts: Rs 13626.89, Labour: Rs 4661.00)




They also gave me the first scratch on the tank

Overall the experience was disappointing. One would expect attention to detail/care handling such expensive bikes, but these guys don't use any tank/body protection or torque wrenches

[//M]

First Service Update

Model - Triumph Tiger 800XR

Odo Reading - 820 kms

Service interval as per manufacturer - 800 kms or 1 month (which ever comes earlier)

Service Centre - BU Bhandari Triumph (Abhimanshree Society, Pune)


Cost breakup -

Spares Cost : INR 4492.73 (Total Oil Consumed - 4 litres)
Labour Charges : INR 2360.00

Total Service Cost : INR 6852.73

[Crankpin]

I had a similar bill charged for my RS 1st service by BU Bhandari in Pune. I am not happy with the fact that they used Castrol 10W50 in my bike but probably from next time onwards I will change the oil myself.
BU Bhandari Triumph service seems nice overall

[shan_ned]

Originally Posted by Crankpin

I had a similar bill charged for my RS 1st service by BU Bhandari in Pune. I am not happy with the fact that they used Castrol 10W50 in my bike but probably from next time onwards I will change the oil myself.
BU Bhandari Triumph service seems nice overall

Any specific reason for not preferring Castrol 10W50 ? The oil viscosity grade is perfect for the current weather conditions. Were you looking for a different oil brand ?

[Crankpin]

Actually, a synthetic oil grade like 10W40 would be better as lesser viscosity oils can move around faster inside an engine, which in turn can cool it faster. Loose clearances in the engine ( older gen engines) and oil-pump will require higher viscosity oil to maintain oil pressure and oil film. Tighter clearances ( Modern motorcycle engines) can use lower viscosity oil, which provides better cooling and improved performance.

Brand-wise, it doesn't really matter as all are almost equal...but out of my experience, Shell Ultra and Mobil 1 are the top.

[shan_ned]

Originally Posted by Crankpin

Actually, a synthetic oil grade like 10W40 would be better as lesser viscosity oils can move around faster inside an engine, which in turn can cool it faster. Loose clearances in the engine ( older gen engines) and oil-pump will require higher viscosity oil to maintain oil pressure and oil film. Tighter clearances ( Modern motorcycle engines) can use lower viscosity oil, which provides better cooling and improved performance.

Brand-wise, it doesn't really matter as all are almost equal...but out of my experience, Shell Ultra and Mobil 1 are the top.

Interesting information. The STriple manual recommends 10w50 in places where the climate is hot (having ambient temperature crossing 40 degree Celsius).

[Red Liner]

Originally Posted by Crankpin

Actually, a synthetic oil grade like 10W40 would be better as lesser viscosity oils can move around faster inside an engine, which in turn can cool it faster. Loose clearances in the engine ( older gen engines) and oil-pump will require higher viscosity oil to maintain oil pressure and oil film. Tighter clearances ( Modern motorcycle engines) can use lower viscosity oil, which provides better cooling and improved performance.

Brand-wise, it doesn't really matter as all are almost equal...but out of my experience, Shell Ultra and Mobil 1 are the top.

Originally Posted by shan_ned

Interesting information. The STriple manual recommends 10w50 in places where the climate is hot (having ambient temperature crossing 40 degree Celsius).

If using a 10w50 oil, you will just need to warm the engine a few minutes more before riding out aggressively. That will allow the oil to warm up sufficiently and become more fluid to run around the engine.

A 10w40 oil ridden in Rajasthan or Delhi temperatures will shear relatively more easily than a 10w50 Oil.

The cold cranking temperatures remain the same between the two.

Down south, a 10W40 oil more or less works as a round the year oil.

[Crankpin]

Originally Posted by shan_ned

Interesting information. The STriple manual recommends 10w50 in places where the climate is hot (having ambient temperature crossing 40 degree Celsius).

I have not yet read the manual completely but, does it show a range of usable viscosity vis a vis temperature or it says to use only 10W50?

I shifted to 10W40 (fully synthetic) in my FZ1 after I had repeated 'sticky clutch plate' kind of issue using a 10W50. Gear shifting, as it is was a bit hard in the FZ1 but the 10W50 made it worse. After changing over to 10W40, the problem was resolved to a great extent. Besides, I never felt the bike running hotter or a drop in performance with 10W40. Bike ran smooth. Many manufacturers are now recommending 10W40 and some even 10W30 grade oils.

Originally Posted by Red Liner

If using a 10w50 oil, you will just need to warm the engine a few minutes more before riding out aggressively. That will allow the oil to warm up sufficiently and become more fluid to run around the engine.

A 10w40 oil ridden in Rajasthan or Delhi temperatures will shear relatively more easily than a 10w50 Oil.

The cold cranking temperatures remain the same between the two.

Down south, a 10W40 oil more or less works as a round the year oil.

Yes could work that way...but a 10W50, because of its properties, will make the engine work more (since it's a synthetic it will retain its viscosity at high temps.) to overcome the drag caused by using a heavier oil.

This and the fact that 'maximum engine wear' happens when you crank the engine for the first time using a lower viscosity oil which will flow better and reach critical components (valvetrain) faster than a 10W50

Fully Synthetics are designed to be shear-resistant to an extent and have additional improvements over mineral oils

[Red Liner]

Originally Posted by Crankpin

Yes could work that way...but a 10W50, because of its properties, will make the engine work more (since it's a synthetic it will retain its viscosity at high temps.) to overcome the drag caused by using a heavier oil.

This and the fact that 'maximum engine wear' happens when you crank the engine for the first time using a lower viscosity oil which will flow better and reach critical components (valvetrain) faster than a 10W50

Fully Synthetics are designed to be shear-resistant to an extent and have additional improvements over mineral oils

Overall, yes it would make sense to stick to a 10w40, unless you insist on riding in the blistering afternoon heat of 50+ degree centigrade

[shan_ned]

Originally Posted by Crankpin

I have not yet read the manual completely but, does it show a range of usable viscosity vis a vis temperature or it says to use only 10W50?

The manual shows a chart with recommended viscosity grades vis a vis the ambient temperature range.
10w40 : -10 to 40 degrees C
10w50 : -10 to > 40 degrees C