[IndigoXLGrandDi]

Sorry for posting again.
I want to know what procedure as well as products should I follow/use for our Elite i20 Star Dust bought on 18-3-15. My budget is 3-4 K.
1. Is there any need to use Sealant? If yes which one?
2. Which Polish/Wax should I use? Is there any need to use Pre-Waxing products?
What is the curing time required between the above products? What if I want to take the car in between (during the surgery :lol)?

EDIT:-
I have Resqtech 28 litres Car Washer and Meguiars Car Wash Shampoo.

I dont like to Wash the car everyday even though there is no shortage of water. How should I clean the car without scratching the paint (especially in rainy season)?

[linuxmanju]

Originally Posted by IndigoXLGrandDi

.
1. Is there any need to use Sealant? If yes which one?

Sealant is a must. Plenty of options there. Like C845, UPGP, Optimum OCW and Megs UWW. Pick one which is available and easier to use.

2. Which Polish/Wax should I use? Is there any need to use Pre-Waxing products?

I hope you know polish and waxes are different. If you go with a sealant as above you can skip the wax.

For Pre-waxing or prep what we call it as. You can start with a clay. Then optionally followed by a paint cleaner.

What is the curing time required between the above products? What if I want to take the car in between (during the surgery :lol)?

If you meant buffing time for a sealant, depends on what you use. For eg, C845 you may need to leave it on for 15-30 mins before doing a final wipe.

UPGP and OCW is apply and walk(drive) away kind of a products.

I dont like to Wash the car everyday even though there is no shortage of water. How should I clean the car without scratching the paint (especially in rainy season)?

Check out any of the water less washes. You have UWW ( Ultima waterless wash ) as well as Optimum rinsless wash. Just watch videos on how to use them.

[BakyaBHP]

What i have been using till now:

Till now i have been using following products
1. Meguiar's nxt shampoo
2. Meguiar's Ultimate polish
3. Meguiar's tech wax 2 (paste)
4. Meguiar's hand polishing/waxing pads (applicator pads).
5. Some other products as well.

About my car:
I have a Tata Indica Xeta (2007) car which i have been cleaning, polishing and detailing, with whatever little i had, for more than a year.
My car is more than 7 years old and for 6 years out of it, it under-went only regular washing. So you can imagine the status of it's surface. For past year or so i have been taking proper care of it.But like many of you know, it is very difficult to get better results using hand applicators and it is extremely tiresome.

My online experience:

After reading a lot on various forums and watching same videos countless number of times on youtube, i decided to get a polisher.

But which one? Dual action polisher or a rotary polisher?

I read numerous posts on this topic too. The main problem is the availability of dual action polishers in India and the high cost involved (15k+ maybe).

There are many posts on various forums which scare you about the usage of rotary polisher. Even people who have never used a rotary polisher give their opinions on how difficult the rotary polisher is to use and how you will end up destroying your paint.

I started asking myself questions like, people who are experienced with rotary polishers had to start using them at some point of time, right?. They were not born with rotary skills. They had to take an effort and learn it. They had to practice a lot to get to the level they are at. I knew there will be a learning curve involved and getting used to it will be difficult but i had to try it before blindly accepting that the rotary is not for me.
So due to the cost factor and the availability issues of the DA in India, i decided to give rotary a shot.

Again, i read many posts on various forums and saw you tube videos on the subject. Many times, i must have looked like a fool to many people who saw me secretly pretending to have a rotary in hand and trying to follow whats being said on forums and you tube videos. The information started getting too much for me.I could not read anymore. Unfortunately, i knew nobody with an experience of using a rotary. Maybe i did not try enough to find one. I had no choice but to figure it out myself. The only way to learn it was to try it on my own.

Choice of Rotary:
I Bought Skil 9080 which was in my budget and was easily available. It had a range of 600-3000 RPM. It came with a 7 inch backing plate and a 7 inch (?) orange polishing foam pad. I thought it was a little too big for many areas of the car. So,i bought a 4.5 inch backing plate,a white 5.5 inch and a Blue 5.5 inch LC CCS pads.

Choice of Polish and wax:

I bought Poorboy's SSR1 polish to use with white pad and Meguiar's M26 wax to use with the Blue pad.
I bought Poorboy's SSR1 because it gives you a long working time and was very less abrasive. It is a lot forgiving and could be used in sun too. The cost involved was also reasonable. The main aim of this exercise was to learn to use the rotary (handling part) and was not to correct paint.

My experience of using a rotary for the very first time was as follows:

This was my first time using any polishing machine. I had not used a DA or any other machine before.
I had prepared the surface with a regular routine. I decided to start with the hood first for obvious reasons. I put five small drops of SSR1 on the pad. I had learned that SSR1 works best without any spray of QD on the pad for lubrication.With the machine off, i placed the pad at various places inside the selected area to cover the area with dots of polish.I put a setting of "MIN" on the rotary which is 600 RPM as per the manual of 9080.
This was it!...time for action!.
Took a second to prepare myself mentally. It was time to put, all that i had read on forums and watched on videos, into real action. I put the pad flat on the surface and got into position. I did not apply any pressure on the pad. The only pressure it had was the weight of the polisher. The cable was over my shoulder, like it was shown in the videos. With everything ready i pulled the trigger switch!...only to realize, i had not switched on the extension board!

Okay, no worries...happens to everyone... no one saw it. Switched on the supply and i was good to go!

As soon as i started the polisher, it started moving horizontally(with a gentle pace) on the surface. It felt as if it had a mind of its own. The setting was 600 RPM. I wanted to move the pad a little quickly on the surface to spread the polish over a 2x2 ft area. I could do it with ease.
Stopped the machine and lifted it. The spread was nice and even. I got relieved a bit.

I put the setting on next step, which was 1000 or 1200 rpm (Not sure..It was not mentioned in the manual). Started the machine and guided it to make horizontal and vertical passes.I did a couple of passes and then stopped to look at the condition of the polish and the surface. I wanted to find out the right time to stop polishing and it depended upon the complete breakdown of the polish. I did a few more passes until the haze subsided and a few reflections from the surface started appearing. I did not want to increase the rpm further until i got a little more practice and so limited myself to 1200 rpm. Maybe, only little work was being done by this but gaining confidence and getting used to handling a rotary was my aim.

I completed the hood and the roof in similar way and was relieved and happy to see the result.

Doing the doors and the vertical surfaces was a little different in terms of handling. I had to hold it against the surface by applying a very small but sufficient pressure on the head of the polisher. I found the passes to be little difficult but manageable on these surfaces. I also realized that sometimes the rotary would suddenly and swiftly change directions.It maybe because of the irregularities of the surface or mistake on my part of not reading the surface correctly. But even if it changed direction suddenly, i let it change without opposing it. I used to switch off the machine and bring it back to the place where i wanted and start over again. I did that portion carefully the next time around. I selected smaller areas on these surfaces to work which helped a lot.

Overall, i kept the machine away from all the edges and body lines as a precaution. I had to do a few spots with hand applicator pads.I took my very sweet time for everything until i got the hang of it. I was not in hurry and i was not looking for perfection of the surface. I just wanted to get used to handling it.

Waxing the car with M26 and the blue pad was very easy after polishing.

I completed the entire car in a day and at the end of it was very happy about my little adventure. Not only did i learn handling the machine but i got good results in eliminating fine swirls too in the process .

Final words:

I wont write something like "Do not be scared of the rotary but respect it". It sounds right but does not help anyone practically. I would say read everything there is about it from the wealth of information available here and elsewhere, watch a lot of videos about the subject and even get in touch with someone who actually knows how to use the machine. Play it safe by selecting very mild and easy to use polish and a very less abrasive (finishing) pad. Start with lowest RPM and increase it only when you get comfortable with it. Do not go beyond a certain RPM (say 1200) until you get comfortable with the machine. For the very first time using a rotary polisher, do not try to perfect the paint.Instead concentrate on perfecting the technique of handling it correctly. Go slow, take your sweet time. Try it on your old car first if you are afraid to try it on your new one. Try it! If you are using a mild polish with finishing pads, low RPMs and if you are keeping the rotary polisher moving, you will not cause any damage.

I just wanted to share my exciting experience, of using a rotary polisher for the first time, with you all. I thank you all for sharing valuable information on this forum which always helps me to learn about taking care of my car.

A few pics attached.

Cheers!

[sagarpadaki]

With skil rotary ,minimum speed is 600 . Every step increases the speed by 400 rpm

[linuxmanju]

Awesome work for the first attempt. I remember my first try with 9080 .

Originally Posted by BakyaBHP

I wanted to find out the right time to stop polishing and it depended upon the complete breakdown of the polish.

If I recall correctly, SSR1 is a SMAT, so there is nothing to break down. If it is SMAT, usually you will do few passes for correction then ease the pressure off and lower the RPM for finishing, when you decide to stop. My knowledge on this is a bit outdated , please check if it is SMAT or DAT.

Doing the doors and the vertical surfaces was a little different in terms of handling.

A few pics attached.

Cheers!

Again, awesome work there. That too in the first attempt. Kudos to you.

[BakyaBHP]

Originally Posted by linuxmanju

If I recall correctly, SSR1 is a SMAT, so there is nothing to break down. If it is SMAT, usually you will do few passes for correction then ease the pressure off and lower the RPM for finishing, when you decide to stop. My knowledge on this is a bit outdated , please check if it is SMAT or DAT.

I think Poorboy's SSR series have diminishing abrasives in them.

Thanks for your encouragement!

[aditya.bhardwaj]

Hello everyone.

Has anyone used the 3M Cream wax ? How is it compared to Formula one and the rest ? I planned to get the Meguiar's Tech Wax but the short of Vitamin M led me to the 3M one. Please refer the attached picture.

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by BakyaBHP

Doing the doors and the vertical surfaces was a little different in terms of handling. I had to hold it against the surface by applying a very small but sufficient pressure on the head of the polisher. I found the passes to be little difficult but manageable on these surfaces. I also realized that sometimes the rotary would suddenly and swiftly change directions.It maybe because of the irregularities of the surface or mistake on my part of not reading the surface correctly. But even if it changed direction suddenly, i let it change without opposing it. I used to switch off the machine and bring it back to the place where i wanted and start over again. I did that portion carefully the next time around. I selected smaller areas on these surfaces to work which helped a lot.

Whenever you're doing a vertical panel like a door, get a small stool and sit on it. It will give you a firm ground. Always keep the rotary at eve level with loose shoulders and move about the rotary. This way you'll have a lot more control over it.

Do not use the D handle or the side handle on the rotary. Get a glove with padding and use it while holding the head of rotary. (I'm right handed so I keep my left hand on the head of the rotary, right hand on the bottom handle). The closer your hand is with the rotating mass, more control you'll get. The head will get pretty hot with use plus vibrations are harsh hence padded gloves.

Originally Posted by BakyaBHP

Overall, i kept the machine away from all the edges and body lines as a precaution.

Buy and use masking tapes. Lots of it. It really is cheap insurance than burning paint on edges or body lines.

[Ricci]

Originally Posted by aditya.bhardwaj

Hello everyone.

Has anyone used the 3M Cream wax ? How is it compared to Formula one and the rest ? I planned to get the Meguiar's Tech Wax but the short of Vitamin M led me to the 3M one. Please refer the attached picture.

I have, just once though. It's more liquid-y than Formula 1, so easier apply/spread but only slightly so. Buffing after drying, could not tell any more or less effort to buff, and in terms of shine about the same. Not much to differentiate between the two. Can't speak about longevity.

[aditya.bhardwaj]

Originally Posted by Ricci

I have, just once though. It's more liquid-y than Formula 1, so easier apply/spread but only slightly so. Buffing after drying, could not tell any more or less effort to buff, and in terms of shine about the same. Not much to differentiate between the two. Can't speak about longevity.

Thank you for the prompt reply. I guess I will have to wax every month if it doesn't stay much. This gives me another reason to get the Meguiar's tech wax later on

[Sheel]

Guys, how to clean your microfiber cloth? Like you do normally or in lukewarm water or cold? Normal detergents?

Mom & Wife won't allow them in washing machines & will have to do so myself.

[BakyaBHP]

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

Whenever you're doing a vertical panel like a door, get a small stool and sit on it. It will give you a firm ground. Always keep the rotary at eve level with loose shoulders and move about the rotary. This way you'll have a lot more control over it.

This is exactly what i did. I have a foldable small stool which i used. It was manageable!

Do not use the D handle or the side handle on the rotary. Get a glove with padding and use it while holding the head of rotary. (I'm right handed so I keep my left hand on the head of the rotary, right hand on the bottom handle). The closer your hand is with the rotating mass, more control you'll get. The head will get pretty hot with use plus vibrations are harsh hence padded gloves.
Buy and use masking tapes. Lots of it. It really is cheap insurance than burning paint on edges or body lines.

This i will try next time. I used the D handle.

[kutlee]

I won't put microfibers in washing machine. Washine machines are not designed to clean off greaes, oil, dirt etc. I was using normal washing soap, or the same car shampoo itself. If the cloth is used to clean off waxing, then better to wash in warm water and the wax floats off.

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by Sheel

Guys, how to clean your microfiber cloth? Like you do normally or in lukewarm water or cold? Normal detergents?

Mom & Wife won't allow them in washing machines & will have to do so myself.

Normal water, normal detergents like Surf, Arial. Never use fabric softeners like genteel etc. They will spoil the micro fiber.

[IndigoXLGrandDi]

On which cars should the Waterless Wash not be performed to avoid the Scratch on paint?

In other words, How Dirty is Too Dirty for a Waterless Car Wash?

EDIT No.1: -
Pl. Note that the following does not relate to above.
While performing Waterless Wash or Rinseless Wash, how many minimum No. of MF towels will I have to use? Suppose I have 2 MF towels. If I lift dirt with No.1 MF and Wipe clean with No.2 MF, can I use the No.1 again after dipping it in clean water and squeezing it i.e. can I use the MF No.1 wet? Or only Dry MFs should be used for lifting dirt?

EDIT No. 2: -
I will be using Proklear RAW Xtreme CX.
Also suggest which MFs to be used. I have searched online but confused which one to go for.

How effective is X Static Aqua Magnet for drying Glass panels of car or it should be used only for Body Parts in case the car is washed using Shampoo (i.e traditional way- Pressure Washer, Apply Shampoo, Rinse).