[FuelInjector]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

And how to remove the old , hardened tar?

There is a formula1 "bug and tar remover" available. i have not used it personally but my friends in US use it after rabbit/deer hits to remove steadfast materials on the hood.
Application and usage would be described on the backside of the pack i presume (or can be googled)

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by FuelInjector

There is a formula1 "bug and tar remover" available. i have not used it personally but my friends in US use it after rabbit/deer hits to remove steadfast materials on the hood.
Application and usage would be described on the backside of the pack i presume (or can be googled)

Have used it and it does not even remove fresh tar. So it wont be able to budge hard tar

[bejoy]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

And how to remove the old , hardened tar?

Hot water also helps. The melting point of tar is very low and once it is softened, it is easier to remove (using other solvents).

[torquecurve]

Use a product called TarX, a bit expensive but worth it. Also a good agressive clay (Bilt Hamber, Norton) should remove it.

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by torquecurve

Use a product called TarX, a bit expensive but worth it. Also a good agressive clay (Bilt Hamber, Norton) should remove it.

Have tar-x and used it too . But on hard tar marks it does not dissolve them

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

And how to remove the old , hardened tar?

Originally Posted by antardaksh

I had removed hardened tar marks (almost 4 months old) using WD40. These wont go away in first attempt. Apply generous amount of WD40 and wait for some time. Then rub in circles using cloth/tissue paper or soft brush. Repeat the same process multiple times till all tar marks have been removed.

Spray WD40 on a tissue and stick it on the tar stained surface. Let it be for 10 minutes. Use a clean rag to wipe, repeat if necessary. I wouldn't waste microfibers by putting tar in them and since WD40 is a lubricant, you wont put in too much swirls either.

Avoid using pressure, dont rub in circles. Rather wet the rag with wd40 and wipe in straight lines. It should be similar to shaving motion where you take off a small layer with every pass. Avoid brushes too.

One can of WD40 has been lasting me a very very long time.

It goes without saying, wash the area with a shampoo before starting with WD40. Any dirt/mud will cause scratches.

[MaxTorque]

Friends, two queries,
1) If I am unable to finish the whole waxing process in one stretch, how can I break it down to two - three sessions?
2) Currently I am using ONR Water less wash - Green, which is about to get finished. Any alternative? Or continue with the same.

[hyper-VTEC]

Originally Posted by MaxTorque

Friends, two queries,
1) If I am unable to finish the whole waxing process in one stretch, how can I break it down to two - three sessions?
2) Currently I am using ONR Water less wash - Green, which is about to get finished. Any alternative? Or continue with the same.

1. You can do Panel by Panel. Always follow the top down approach. I do this as well (panel by panel). Also try not do drive the car much and avoid completely if possible. This will interfere with the prep. After all detailing is 80% prep.

2. If you want a VFM product try ProKlear - however it is nowhere near ONR in peroformance. If you want something better (& expensive) try Ultima WW. If you are happy with ONR - continue with it.

[FuelInjector]

Originally Posted by MaxTorque

Friends, two queries,
1) If I am unable to finish the whole waxing process in one stretch, how can I break it down to two - three sessions?
2) Currently I am using ONR Water less wash - Green, which is about to get finished. Any alternative? Or continue with the same.

1. yes. you can split it into sessions. But would suggest finish it the same day and do not drive in between sessions.
2. My personal 2 cents is to stick with ONR if you liked it. other options in the indian market are slightly stickier solutions.

[MMX]

Originally Posted by FuelInjector

1. yes. you can split it into sessions. But would suggest finish it the same day and do not drive in between sessions.

I recently Washed my ANHC 2015 with Ultima WW and then after it was wiped dry I Polished it with Maguiar's Ultimate Polish which I did in parts. Top Down I managed only the Roof, Bonnet and Boot.
The Next Day I brushed the dust using Jopasu and started along the remaing Panels. 1 Hour later I had completed all the Panels. But I had to call it a day so I left my car to that. Unfortunately the next day i had no time to complete Waxing the car so I parked it the covered Parking and covered it too.
This weekend almost after 6 days I'm planning to complete the waxing process -
1. Is this time interval ok between the Polishing and Waxing?
2. Should I start the waxing process by washing the Car again with Ultima WW or just dust it clean with Jopasu and a bit of wiping.

It's my first attempt at detailing the car so please help me out with your suggestions.

[hyper-VTEC]

Need a quick advice from Gurus.

My truck (pearl white) was parked the entire 7 days outside and experienced the wrath of weather in Chennai. I got it detailed 3 months back and has Klasse SG + 845. While i am sure the 845 would have worn off by now - almost 3 months + 7 days of fierceful rains, my question is below.

Is it advisable to give it a thorough shampoo wash and add Klasse SG OR should i use something like TRIX (or any other decon product) and then add SG?

[FuelInjector]

Originally Posted by MMX

This weekend almost after 6 days I'm planning to complete the waxing process -
1. Is this time interval ok between the Polishing and Waxing?
2. Should I start the waxing process by washing the Car again with Ultima WW or just dust it clean with Jopasu and a bit of wiping.

Honestly am impressed with your level of detailing your ANHC. Obviously you love it a lot. I have a caremelian red pearl ANHC and just treated it last saturday.

1. Since you say it as covered and not driven, dont think you need to start from scartch. The reason why i feel it should not be driven between sessions is because of the toll it would take from natural elements. Once i did the same like you and then drove for ~2 days before detailing the door panels. Since it drizzled in between and thanks to a couple of bird droppings on the roof, i could clearly see a slight difference between the top/hood/boot and side panels/alloys. No hard and fast rule there (in my opinion). Other gurus can please correct me if am wrong.

2. Since you have already done waxing and kept it covered, would say use a mild shampoo only for the doors. Dry it out and then proceed. The whole process should take you ~2 hours maybe.

Originally Posted by hyper-VTEC

I got it detailed 3 months back and has Klasse SG + 845. While i am sure the 845 would have worn off by now - almost 3 months + 7 days of fierceful rains, my question is below.

Is it advisable to give it a thorough shampoo wash and add Klasse SG OR should i use something like TRIX (or any other decon product) and then add SG?

SG is a sealent glaze that uses acrylic. Acrylic as a hydrocarbon has a very long life, especially on paint films. This glaze is usually slightly elastic and can endure rains, salt water and other pollution conditions for ~6 months atleast.
Not sure what you mean by 845? is it Collinite No 845? If yes - then its just a wax compound, not meant to do much other than provide the shine & lustre on top of finished clean surface.
On TRIX - its just a decontaminant. It would remove grease and any oxidised particles on the surface. While it is good to use, in my opinion, dont see a need as the acrylic coat should not have lost its purpose as yet.
Maybe you might just want to give it a shampoo wash and then put on some wax to regain lustre?
Good luck with whatever choice you make

[hyper-VTEC]

Originally Posted by FuelInjector

SG is a sealent glaze that uses acrylic. Acrylic as a hydrocarbon has a very long life, especially on paint films. This glaze is usually slightly elastic and can endure rains, salt water and other pollution conditions for ~6 months atleast.
Not sure what you mean by 845? is it Collinite No 845? If yes - then its just a wax compound, not meant to do much other than provide the shine & lustre on top of finished clean surface.
On TRIX - its just a decontaminant. It would remove grease and any oxidised particles on the surface. While it is good to use, in my opinion, dont see a need as the acrylic coat should not have lost its purpose as yet.
Maybe you might just want to give it a shampoo wash and then put on some wax to regain lustre?
Good luck with whatever choice you make

Yes 845 is Collinite 845. I will wash with a good shampoo and apply the CG Blitz - which is a acrylic spray sealant. I got this new and itching to try it out.

[Akshay1234]

Guys what coating should I be looking at for the BMWs? I want to pick up something like Opti Coat or equivalent. What are your suggestions? Will get it applied by my detailer the next time they come over to do the cars.

Not looking at spending a huge amount, but do suggest some product of good quality.

[devilwearsprada]

Originally Posted by akshay1234

Guys what coating should I be looking at for the BMWs? I want to pick up something like Opti Coat or equivalent. What are your suggestions? Will get it applied by my detailer the next time they come over to do the cars.

Not looking at spending a huge amount, but do suggest some product of good quality.

Don't go for an opticoat. MaxProtect is a better solution.