[SanjayDalal]

Last week I replaced my OEM battery in my Hyundai Eon at about 6500km . It was an Amaron and lasted exactly 2yrs and 5month. It suddenly died on me. In the morning I took the car for a spin and topped up the fuel tank . ( I always do a full top up when tank drops to half). In the evening when I wanted to take the car out, it just would not start. I tried the headlights and they would not light up. Locked the car and took out another car to complete the chores. The Eon is used regularly for short distances only, though I make sure that I cover 5km -8km every time I take it out And every couple of days, just drive 15-20 km on the hightway. I was a bit disappointed that it lasted for such a short period. The most shocking point was: there was NO indication at all that the battery would die suddenly!!!!
The sales guy at the Amaron Outlet, told me that the OEM fitted to the Eon has a warranty for one year only. So he said "Sir, you should be happy that it lasted this long".

My earlier Wagon R with an Exide OEM lasted exactly 5yrs and did give signs of dying, due to extended cranking required on cold winter days. I replaced it with a Amaron 48month warranty, and that battery was still going strong when I sold it five years later.
I replaced the OEM battery in my Ford Fiesta 1.6SXI exactly five years after purchase having run approx 26,000km. Again replaced with an Amaron 48 month warranty. This car is used for long highway runs only. There was no problem with the OEM, but I felt more comfortable replacing it, since five years had passed.
Now I am a bit worried on this point. I just purchased a Honda BRV V model CVT automatic, and the OEM is the same type of Amaron which failed in my EON. Now since a car with an automatic transmission CANNOT be (push) started with a flat battery, I am planning to change it at 18 months , regardless of the fact whether the OEM is still good or not, with a 48month Amaron, since the Honda will also be used for highway runs. And again change it after 48month. Just for peace of mind.
I do not grudge the cost of battery replacements, since it is small expense of ownership of car, keeping in mind depreciation, fuel, insurance and service costs .

[SnakemanJohny]

Please don't panic, SanjayDalal, give the battery a chance to prove itself. For automatics, keep a a pair of 'jumper cables', in the car. Can DIY it, or buy one of the more expensive ones online. Read up and memorise the connection sequence and jump-starting procedures. Now, if it fails at home, you can use the battery from another car to assist your BRV. In case it fails on road, (rare since you would be charging it while driving) SOS for help. Even I was prepared to buy an OEM battery after one year, as the standard Exide supplied with Maruti-Suzuki lasts approximately that long. But six years, and it is still going strong !
The bad thing about modern batteries -- they die almost without warning. Wasn't the same with the old black rubber ones. They could go quite a few months even after showing first signs of aging !

[condor]

Originally Posted by SanjayDalal

Now I am a bit worried on this point. I just purchased a Honda BRV V model CVT automatic, and the OEM is the same type of Amaron which failed in my EON. Now since a car with an automatic transmission CANNOT be (push) started with a flat battery, I am planning to change it at 18 months , regardless of the fact whether the OEM is still good or not, with a 48month Amaron,

Like SnakemanJohnny said, nothing to worry about. Batteries, though weak, still work. It is quite possible that you missed the warning signs.

Here's a image of the steps to jump-start. Get a cable done, or pick up one. Let the cable be thick.


Image taken from literature in AAA jumper cable package

If in trouble, try get help from a diesel vehicle since their batteries are of higher rating. Just remember to raise the rpm of the supporting car when you are cranking your car.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by SanjayDalal

I just purchased a Honda BRV V model CVT automatic, and the OEM is the same type of Amaron which failed in my EON. .....since the Honda will also be used for highway runs. And again change it after 48month. Just for peace of mind.

Frankly, I feel any car/SUV owner MUST buy a good set of jumper cables. It is not just for the time you are in trouble but you can also help other stranded motorists.

If your car is going to be used mainly for frequent highway runs then fear not, the battery will be charged and maintained in good condition provided you make sure you top up the water and ensure the plates are covered and continue filling right up to the bottom of the filler port. Do not overfill Use the Max and Min markings (if present) on the battery as your guide.

On the other hand, if the car won't be used frequently, buy a good charger, for e.g the Bosch C7 and charge the battery whenever the voltage drops to less than 12.5 V. For more info on the Bosch charger here's a thread that may help you: http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...y-charger.html

I do not grudge the cost of battery replacements, since it is small expense of ownership of car, keeping in mind depreciation, fuel, insurance and service costs.

After having had a bad experience decades back where my car caused a major traffic jam I am proactive with my battery replacements. I look for signs of weakness and replace them.

I don't use my cars much preferring public transport (read Ola/Uber) over driving due to the crazy traffic and crazier parking problems. The cars are mostly used for long distance running. So to maintain the batteries in top shape they are removed from the car(s) every 3-6 months and bench charged along with a desulphator. I always ensure water is at recommended levels. The clamps and posts are kept clean and corrosion free. This easy-to-do preventive maintenance has kept my car batteries in good condition with one crossing 3.5 years and the other 6 years even with low running.

[Bibin]

Originally Posted by condor

Actually check with Ford - and other vendors also.

I am not sure about the current status, but in the past I had found that battery supplied by Ford to be cheaper than other brands (as quoted by the concerned vendor).

Is this right?
Will I void my extended warranty if I ditch Motocraft batteries (Fords own battery) for Amaron or Exide?

My FOrd Classic Diesel which is just 2.5 years old started giving me signs of battery issues last day and I had to jump start the car and now its fine. During the recent days im not using it on a daily basis but atleast its getting switched on and put in idle and then raised for few min once in 3-4 days.

Battery drain in 2.5 years is something which is usual?? Can I get Exide or Amaron to replace this stock Ford Battery? WIll it void warranty? WIll there be issues in the delivered current amperes to the car?

Some one please help

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Bibin

Is this right? Will I void my extended warranty if I ditch Motocraft batteries (Fords own battery) for Amaron or Exide?

My FOrd Classic Diesel which is just 2.5 years old started giving me signs of battery issues last day and I had to jump start the car and now its fine. During the recent days im not using it on a daily basis but atleast its getting switched on and put in idle and then raised for few min once in 3-4 days.

Some one please help

If you are not using your car regularly the battery may be undercharged. Take it to an Exide/Amaron dealer and have it bench charged and tested.

OEM batteries do not last very long in most cases. They are built to a cost and carry a 12 month warranty. Please check your battery warranty card. I do not think an aftermarket battery will affect the warranty provided it is of the same physical size/capacity as the factory fitted part. However, please reconfirm with Ford before purchase.

[a4anurag]

Car : Maruti Suzuki Swift
Variant : ZDi
Fuel : Diesel
Odometer : 1,11,355 kms
Battery (OE) : Exide 65Ah
Accessories fixed : 100/90W with Friday and wiring harness, Dashcam, Auto dimming IRVM.

Its been 3.5 years since purchase and the OE battery which is Exide is dying or starting to die.

Symptoms felt :

1. MID flickering during cranking, no battery warning light so far
2. Cranking time increased. Fatigue like feeling.

Multimeter Data :

After using the car for 110 kms (Out of which 63 kms is at Highway speeds) and letting it rest for 12 hours, here's the details from the multimeter.

Idle Voltage : 12.40V
Cranking Voltage : 9.66V
Engine idling Voltage : 14.20V

Getting an Amaron Flo 65Ah as a replacement for the dying Exide. Expecting the New battery to be priced at 5K post exchange with old battery.

[SanjayDalal]

Many Thanks : SnakemanJohny, condor & R2D2. Will definately invest in good quality of jumper cables. Who knows, one day, may be I can be of assistance to someone else!!

[SanjayDalal]

Originally Posted by Bibin

Is this right?
Will I void my extended warranty if I ditch Motocraft batteries (Fords own battery) for Amaron or Exide?

My FOrd Classic Diesel which is just 2.5 years old started giving me signs of battery issues last day and I had to jump start the car and now its fine. During the recent days im not using it on a daily basis but atleast its getting switched on and put in idle and then raised for few min once in 3-4 days.

Battery drain in 2.5 years is something which is usual?? Can I get Exide or Amaron to replace this stock Ford Battery? WIll it void warranty? WIll there be issues in the delivered current amperes to the car?

Some one please help

I have read somewhere that once started, a car should be driven at least 5km, both to charge the battery and warm up the engine oil to normal operating temperatures.
When I need to do many short runs, I take all errands I have to do and drive to the furthest point first, and then vend my way back home, halting at points. Often, when kids are home, I ask one of them to accompany me, say halt at the grocery, to pick up a loaf of bread etc, or drop a cheque at the bank, ( activities which should not take more then a few min each). I leave the engine running and air-con on, and ask them to lock the car from inside. ( I don't want them car-jacked). I prefer to burn the petrol for two-three mins, rather then have multiple engine start-stops over a span of two-three km. Which will shorten the life of the battery and put pressure on the starter motor. (Yes. I know one gets better fuel economy if you stop engine at traffic lights etc. and enviornmentalists will not approve of my actions)
These actions do not apply if my first stopping point is more then 5km from home. Then I DO stop my engine.

With regards to the batteries sold by Ford, I went for Amaron 48month warranty model, over the Motocraft sold by Ford, because at that time the cost of the Motocraft was MORE than the Amaron, AND Warranty period was less. As far as I can remember Motocraft has 24month warranty only.
The fact remains that my OEM Motocraft went on for five years (so car was out of warranty by then)

I feel you should drive your car at least 10km at a stretch at least once a week. just switching on and raising the engine for a few minutes won't do your battery any good IMHO.

Again on this topic all my cars are driven at least once a month for 25-30kms straight . AFTER driving first 10 km, I lower and raise the power windows, AND use the windshield washer and wipers for a miniute. This will keep the motors operating well, again IMHO.

Hope this helps.

[lurker]

Originally Posted by SanjayDalal

Last week I replaced my OEM battery in my Hyundai Eon at about 6500km . It was an Amaron and lasted exactly 2yrs and 5month. It suddenly died on me. In the morning I took the car for a spin and topped up the fuel tank . ( I always do a full top up when tank drops to half). In the evening when I wanted to take the car out, it just would not start. I tried the headlights and they would not light up. Locked the car and took out another car to complete the chores. The Eon is used regularly for short distances only, though I make sure that I cover 5km -8km every time I take it out And every couple of days, just drive 15-20 km on the hightway. I was a bit disappointed that it lasted for such a short period. The most shocking point was: there was NO indication at all that the battery would die suddenly!!!!
The sales guy at the Amaron Outlet, told me that the OEM fitted to the Eon has a warranty for one year only. So he said "Sir, you should be happy that it lasted this long".

My earlier Wagon R with an Exide OEM lasted exactly 5yrs and did give signs of dying, due to extended cranking required on cold winter days. I replaced it with a Amaron 48month warranty, and that battery was still going strong when I sold it five years later.
I replaced the OEM battery in my Ford Fiesta 1.6SXI exactly five years after purchase having run approx 26,000km. Again replaced with an Amaron 48 month warranty. This car is used for long highway runs only. There was no problem with the OEM, but I felt more comfortable replacing it, since five years had passed.
Now I am a bit worried on this point. I just purchased a Honda BRV V model CVT automatic, and the OEM is the same type of Amaron which failed in my EON. Now since a car with an automatic transmission CANNOT be (push) started with a flat battery, I am planning to change it at 18 months , regardless of the fact whether the OEM is still good or not, with a 48month Amaron, since the Honda will also be used for highway runs. And again change it after 48month. Just for peace of mind.
I do not grudge the cost of battery replacements, since it is small expense of ownership of car, keeping in mind depreciation, fuel, insurance and service costs .

If I were you I would upgrade the alternator. Maybe the battery is not getting charged enough. Do not use the completely sealed battery, they do not work long. Use the wet cell top up type, these can last 7 years easily on a petrol.

[balenoed_]

My Amaron car battery is exactly 6 years old. Never had any issues in the past. Recently, have some starting troubles, i.e. the car will not crank in the first couple of tries, when the engine is hot. It starts in first try when the engine is cold. But say, if I have a long drive and stop, and restart it gives that trouble. Will crank in the fourth or fifth try.
Just having a wild thought that could this be a battery issue and time to change it?

Any thoughts?

[lurker]

Originally Posted by balenoed_

My Amaron car battery is exactly 6 years old. Never had any issues in the past. Recently, have some starting troubles, i.e. the car will not crank in the first couple of tries, when the engine is hot. It starts in first try when the engine is cold. But say, if I have a long drive and stop, and restart it gives that trouble. Will crank in the fourth or fifth try.
Just having a wild thought that could this be a battery issue and time to change it?

Any thoughts?

I don't think the problem is with your battery, it's the starter or the starter fuse getting loose. Change starter fuse first, and if that does not work, it is surely starter.

[jinojohnt]

Originally Posted by SanjayDalal

The sales guy at the Amaron Outlet, told me that the OEM fitted to the Eon has a warranty for one year only. So he said "Sir, you should be happy that it lasted this long".

The OEM Amaron in my A-star is completing 6 years this month, running without a hitch all these years. I may replace it soon, as it is too old anyway.

The (replacement) Amaron in my Alto just completed 4.5 years, also running without a hitch. But this battery is not as healthy as the OEM Amaron in my A-Star (Used a specific gravity meter to check this).

The OEM Exide in my Alto conked off in 3 years flat.

Moral of the story: Getting a good battery is like a lottery, and has nothing to do with the brand.

[sukheshkumar]

Before we talk about the life of car battery, a simple understanding that I learnt from my uncle would provide a better clarity.

Compare Car battery and your savings account deposit.
You deposit money, it is available and you can withdraw.(I have chosen savings account so that the interest rate is insignificant). If you start withdrawing without depositing, account will be empty.

Here, in case of battery, Deposit is when you drive car without headlight, AC, Music , Start and Stop, other ICE etc. Your lights, music system, ac ICE etc are withdrawals. Driving everyday is fine. But whether you are contributing something to build the charge or draining out everything has to be observed.
Regular check of electrolyte level is preferred.

[lurker]

Originally Posted by sukheshkumar

Here, in case of battery, Deposit is when you drive car without headlight, AC, Music , Start and Stop, other ICE etc. Your lights, music system, ac ICE etc are withdrawals. Driving everyday is fine. But whether you are contributing something to build the charge or draining out everything has to be observed.
Regular check of electrolyte level is preferred.

I think AC condenser does not work on battery, only fan does.

so maybe the major drain on battery is th number of sensors a car can carry that works on the battery and ICE, presence of secondary lights and driving at nights using lights and 100/90 uprated lights, AC & ICE does not really help recharge batteries.