Honda Civic : Maintenance, Service Costs and Must dos

lalitk25 · 28th August 2009, 16:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by swageo

Check the cup holder inside the center box. It gives some rattle for me. I inserted a small paper in between, and solved

Thanks for your suggestion.
It actually helped

laluks · 2nd September 2009, 18:42

I have done the 35K service today. No issues. Car runs great.
Got a complimentary birthday gift for her from Dakshin Honda - A polishing job.

Cost of Service Rs810.

ImmortalZ · 2nd September 2009, 19:05

Does anyone know how much the brake pads for the rear brakes cost? I'll have to go and raise my problem with Honda A.S.S on Monday and I'll be getting a new set of pads, under warranty or not. Onam is forcing me to undertake a 1000KM road trip with nearly no rear brakes. I'll have to take it extremely slow and with utmost caution.

Vid6639 · 2nd September 2009, 21:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by ImmortalZ

Does anyone know how much the brake pads for the rear brakes cost? I'll have to go and raise my problem with Honda A.S.S on Monday and I'll be getting a new set of pads, under warranty or not. Onam is forcing me to undertake a 1000KM road trip with nearly no rear brakes. I'll have to take it extremely slow and with utmost caution.

Check if the handbrake works ok. If it does then your rear brakes are still ok. I don't think it will be that bad. It may not be an issue with the pads, more to do with the caliper alignment pin or something.

manim · 2nd September 2009, 21:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by ImmortalZ

Does anyone know how much the brake pads for the rear brakes cost?

I do not know if the pads are different for rear brakes, but when I changed front pads at 40K, I was billed Rs.4,329/- (inc. taxes) + labour charges (approx < Rs.400/-).

Anyway I am surprised, because my brakes are extremely good so far. (my odo reads 47K now). However I had faced shuddering during braking which was solved when I replaced my front-brake-discs along with the pads at 40K. (I still have not replaced my rear-pads till 47K).

Front-Brake-Discs cost me another Rs.4,477/-.

navpreet318 · 2nd September 2009, 21:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by ImmortalZ

You may know that I've been struggling with a brake issue since my accident repair. The repair was completely cosmetic and minor. The issue with my brakes is that I don't have any response for the first 10% of pedal travel and a big lack of feel.

Yesterday, I noticed that my rear brake pads are worn unevenly. They are flush with the rotors only at the edge (the wheel hub). It looks progressively worn outwards. It's tough to put into words and tougher to photograph - the series of pictures I've taken are here : Index of /brakepads

The weird thing is that the pads look worn like this on both sides. The front, as the one pic in the collection shows, looks perfectly flush with the disc as it should.

Do your brake pads look like this? If they are perfectly flat with the disc, please help me build a case by taking pictures that show this. If not and this is normal with all Civics, I'll keep searching for the reason my brakes have gone all mushy.

Look immortalz its hard to explain but i think your pads are perfectly fine.its the design of the rear brake pads.they are tapered from the edges.Even on my SBK the rear pads are tapered.they sit flush from one end but are progressively tapered from the other end.I checked the same on my car and its exactly the same.its just that the pics are being shot differently.even in the pics posted by laluks check the second pic.it is flush from one edge but has a gap on the other side.

i took pics of my brake pads too and they are the same.infact i went to the dealer and checked a new set of pads there and they have the same design.they are not flat.they are tapered from the edges.you have perfect brakes and you have no reason to worry.they'll even last for a few thousand kms more.

go to the dealership and before getting anything opened up ask them to show you a set of rear brake pads.you'll get to know this yourself.

I'm posting a few pics of brake pads which are tapered for your reference.these are supposedly quiter in operation owing to the tapered design though i cannot comment on how much that is true.

navpreet318 · 2nd September 2009, 22:04

Another point Immortalz.you are saying that there is no response in the first 10% of brake travel.I can absolutely certainly tell you its air in the brake tubes carrying brake oil.for the first 10% of brake travel you're actually compressing air in the pipes and then the brakes get applied.this is because gas is compressible and it gets compressed to a certain extent and then puts pressure on the liquid which is not compressible and applies brakes.

Also since you're going on a long trip you'll see that this travel will get increased to 15 or maybe even 20% as the gas expands due to the heat.

I know this for a fact because i have suffered this on my fooperbike and have also rectified it.so you have nothing to worry.its not a big problem at all.

enjoy the car and forget the tension.when you go to the service station ask them to bleed the brakes and fill it with new fluid and ask them to be careful as to not let any air into the system.thats all.

Enjoy your trip.

ImmortalZ · 2nd September 2009, 22:37

Ugh, they bled the brakes thrice and the last time, they charged me for brake fluid as well. It has gotten slightly better, but not fully.

navpreet318 · 2nd September 2009, 23:12

Well it should get better if they take utmost precaution but the problem is the small minute bubbles which stick on the inside of the tube wall.these are the bubbles which you want to get rid of.

what we do on the bikes is that we tie down the brake lever tightly with a rope for overnight.then tap on the entire brake line with a steel rod.and then open the brake lever and open the reservoir also.this releases the bubbles sudenly and they travel to the reservoir.but since the brake line on a bike is vertical its easy.but its very tough on a horizontal line.that is a similar problem i'm facing on the rear brake line on my bike also.since its horizontal.

the solution to this is that never let the brakes bleed dry.when the oil is being removed from the bleeders oil should be continuously fed from the reservoir also.but its very very hard to do this.

s.prashanth · 3rd September 2009, 11:01

Guys I had a query, I bought a used 2008 Civic 1.8 VMT, I wanted to know wheather the doors lock automatically on ignition. If not is there a device that can be put to ake it lock automatically. this is a feature in my Corolla which locks as soon as we touch 40kmph.

laluks · 3rd September 2009, 11:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by s.prashanth

Guys I had a query, I bought a used 2008 Civic 1.8 VMT, I wanted to know wheather the doors lock automatically on ignition. If not is there a device that can be put to ake it lock automatically. this is a feature in my Corolla which locks as soon as we touch 40kmph.

I know that there was a cheat code to do that in 2006 civics. Mine is a 2007 one and that did not work.

I guess that facility is not provided for some safety reasons that doors migh not unlock during a crash etc.

40kmph ?? I know of a certain 16mph which is a minimum speed to cause damage..

But it is there in most cars.

ankzvohra · 7th September 2009, 03:17

Hi, I will want to reply to your concern about the oil change. I am a marine engineer working onboard ships which has heavy machineries like big generators and engines.
The thing about the initial oil change is a myth. Normaly in enigines for the initial running in the manufacturer adds mineral oil into the sump. Then after the run in say 1000 Kms the oil needs to be drained out, inspected for white metal or any metal for that matter and then the oil is changed to a more reliable synthetic oil grade after thorough flushing of the engine sump
This is a standard practice and is being used all over the world for engines. you may inquire with honda about the oil being used in the car initially. And if it is mineral oil then kindly change the oil at the 1st service or in 3-6 months whicever is earlier. 600 to 1000 bucks will not be problem considering the cost of the car but doing this will help add to the life of the engine and the parts whcih encounter wear and tear. Hope this helps. Cheers!!

laluks · 7th September 2009, 08:08

While changing a tyre today, I found that one nut was not getting tightened in the rear wheel. Seems like the thread is gone. Is it possible to change that nut alone?

What happens if the threads are gone from the Bolt on to which the wheel is fixed? Does that amount to some costly replacements?

ImmortalZ · 7th September 2009, 09:29

Depends on the whether or not the nut is replaceable on it's own. If it's fixed to the wheel hub, you are in for a big bill. If not, it'll be minor. I'm sorry, but I don't know about this detail exactly.

navpreet318 · 7th September 2009, 14:35

Well if its just the NUT then it'll be pretty cheap.you can also buy i from an aftermarket shop.consider this a whole set of 20 costs some 900 bucks.so its not an expensive affair.

If the BOLT(stud) on the hub is gone even that shouldn't be expensive.if you have a good garage outside of honda it'll be very cheap.its just a stud and its just a fitting labour job.

2nd September 2009, 18:42	#257
laluks Senior - BHPian Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Bangalore Posts: 6,552 Thanked: 16,397 Times	I have done the 35K service today. No issues. Car runs great. Got a complimentary birthday gift for her from Dakshin Honda - A polishing job. Cost of Service Rs810.
	() Thanks

2nd September 2009, 19:05	#258
ImmortalZ Senior - BHPian Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Trivandrum Posts: 2,179 Thanked: 488 Times View My Garage	Does anyone know how much the brake pads for the rear brakes cost? I'll have to go and raise my problem with Honda A.S.S on Monday and I'll be getting a new set of pads, under warranty or not. Onam is forcing me to undertake a 1000KM road trip with nearly no rear brakes. I'll have to take it extremely slow and with utmost caution.
	() Thanks

2nd September 2009, 22:04	#262
navpreet318 Senior - BHPian Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Dehradun Posts: 2,264 Thanked: 2,983 Times	Another point Immortalz.you are saying that there is no response in the first 10% of brake travel.I can absolutely certainly tell you its air in the brake tubes carrying brake oil.for the first 10% of brake travel you're actually compressing air in the pipes and then the brakes get applied.this is because gas is compressible and it gets compressed to a certain extent and then puts pressure on the liquid which is not compressible and applies brakes. Also since you're going on a long trip you'll see that this travel will get increased to 15 or maybe even 20% as the gas expands due to the heat. I know this for a fact because i have suffered this on my fooperbike and have also rectified it.so you have nothing to worry.its not a big problem at all. enjoy the car and forget the tension.when you go to the service station ask them to bleed the brakes and fill it with new fluid and ask them to be careful as to not let any air into the system.thats all. Enjoy your trip.
	() Thanks

2nd September 2009, 22:37	#263
ImmortalZ Senior - BHPian Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Trivandrum Posts: 2,179 Thanked: 488 Times View My Garage	Ugh, they bled the brakes thrice and the last time, they charged me for brake fluid as well. It has gotten slightly better, but not fully.
	() Thanks

2nd September 2009, 23:12	#264
navpreet318 Senior - BHPian Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Dehradun Posts: 2,264 Thanked: 2,983 Times	Well it should get better if they take utmost precaution but the problem is the small minute bubbles which stick on the inside of the tube wall.these are the bubbles which you want to get rid of. what we do on the bikes is that we tie down the brake lever tightly with a rope for overnight.then tap on the entire brake line with a steel rod.and then open the brake lever and open the reservoir also.this releases the bubbles sudenly and they travel to the reservoir.but since the brake line on a bike is vertical its easy.but its very tough on a horizontal line.that is a similar problem i'm facing on the rear brake line on my bike also.since its horizontal. the solution to this is that never let the brakes bleed dry.when the oil is being removed from the bleeders oil should be continuously fed from the reservoir also.but its very very hard to do this.
	() Thanks

3rd September 2009, 11:01	#265
s.prashanth BHPian Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: bangalore Posts: 365 Thanked: 85 Times	Guys I had a query, I bought a used 2008 Civic 1.8 VMT, I wanted to know wheather the doors lock automatically on ignition. If not is there a device that can be put to ake it lock automatically. this is a feature in my Corolla which locks as soon as we touch 40kmph.
	() Thanks

7th September 2009, 03:17	#267
ankzvohra Newbie Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Mumbai Posts: 12 Thanked: 0 Times	Hi, I will want to reply to your concern about the oil change. I am a marine engineer working onboard ships which has heavy machineries like big generators and engines. The thing about the initial oil change is a myth. Normaly in enigines for the initial running in the manufacturer adds mineral oil into the sump. Then after the run in say 1000 Kms the oil needs to be drained out, inspected for white metal or any metal for that matter and then the oil is changed to a more reliable synthetic oil grade after thorough flushing of the engine sump This is a standard practice and is being used all over the world for engines. you may inquire with honda about the oil being used in the car initially. And if it is mineral oil then kindly change the oil at the 1st service or in 3-6 months whicever is earlier. 600 to 1000 bucks will not be problem considering the cost of the car but doing this will help add to the life of the engine and the parts whcih encounter wear and tear. Hope this helps. Cheers!!
	() Thanks

7th September 2009, 08:08	#268
laluks Senior - BHPian Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Bangalore Posts: 6,552 Thanked: 16,397 Times	While changing a tyre today, I found that one nut was not getting tightened in the rear wheel. Seems like the thread is gone. Is it possible to change that nut alone? What happens if the threads are gone from the Bolt on to which the wheel is fixed? Does that amount to some costly replacements?
	() Thanks

7th September 2009, 09:29	#269
ImmortalZ Senior - BHPian Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Trivandrum Posts: 2,179 Thanked: 488 Times View My Garage	Depends on the whether or not the nut is replaceable on it's own. If it's fixed to the wheel hub, you are in for a big bill. If not, it'll be minor. I'm sorry, but I don't know about this detail exactly.
	() Thanks

7th September 2009, 14:35	#270
navpreet318 Senior - BHPian Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Dehradun Posts: 2,264 Thanked: 2,983 Times	Well if its just the NUT then it'll be pretty cheap.you can also buy i from an aftermarket shop.consider this a whole set of 20 costs some 900 bucks.so its not an expensive affair. If the BOLT(stud) on the hub is gone even that shouldn't be expensive.if you have a good garage outside of honda it'll be very cheap.its just a stud and its just a fitting labour job.
	() Thanks