[Ravindra M]

Originally Posted by Karadi

Could any of my learned enthusiast friends on this forum tell me what the correct idle speed for a W124 E250 Diesel ought to be ? My 1996 car idles at about 600 rpm and I'm not sure if it is lower than specification. Replies would be appreciated.

Here you go !
The information pasted above the RHS Headlight once you open the engine hood - it should be 650 to 750 RPM in completely warmed-up engine.

[Karadi]

Originally Posted by Ravindra M

Here you go !
The information pasted above the RHS Headlight once you open the engine hood - it should be 650 to 750 RPM in completely warmed-up engine.

Thanks for enlightening me ! Apparently all is well !

[laxmanrk]

Fellow W124iites/ Gurus

Could someone give me the following information:

1) The gear ratios or Gearbox number of an E220 petrol manual gearbox (sold in India)
2) Gear ratios or Gearbox number of the E220 automatic (not sure if this was sold in India)

Thanks in advance.

[sportz_kruzer]

HI would any of you have an idea why would my E220 petrol 1996 has a bullock cart ride!? As in no "Mercedes Benz" plushy soft ride? The suspension seems ok..bumps up one n a half times when pushed down (all four sides) the ride is hard and almost every road undulation is felt and there's also negligible body roll no matter how hard u turn it at any speed! (However..The cielo rolls quite a bit comparatively)

Clues - dampers are bilstein (not sure weather they are "comforts" or "heavy duty" is there a way to tell? )

Tyres are continentals at back n Bridgestone in front. 2009 tyres..n they feel like a rock to touch compared to my Cielo s turanza (ironically the cielo rides softer than the merc :-( ) also I can see tiny cracks over the entire tread. .is this normal??

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by sportz_kruzer

HI would any of you have an idea why would my E220 petrol 1996 has a bullock cart ride!? As in no "Mercedes Benz" plushy soft ride? The suspension seems ok..bumps up one n a half times when pushed down (all four sides) the ride is hard and almost every road undulation is felt and there's also negligible body roll no matter how hard u turn it at any speed! (However..The cielo rolls quite a bit comparatively)

Clues - dampers are bilstein (not sure weather they are "comforts" or "heavy duty" is there a way to tell? )

Tyres are continentals at back n Bridgestone in front. 2009 tyres..n they feel like a rock to touch compared to my Cielo s turanza (ironically the cielo rides softer than the merc :-( ) also I can see tiny cracks over the entire tread. .is this normal??

If the car goes up and down when pushed down, the the dampers are not functioning. The car should come up smoothly without any over shoot. That may also account for bumpy ride.

If the tyres are rock hard they will have no elasticity to absorb road undulation. This happens when they are quite old (> 5 years) and have deteriorated in the sun. Hard rubber will result in broken tyre cords, and unless you want the tyres to fail please get them changed ASAP. One clue of bad tyre carcass is perennial punctures in warm climate.

If the dampers are gone and the tyres are hard, then the rubber parts of the suspension have also deteriorated. So, when changing the tyres and the dampers check the rest of the suspension for bent members, and change all rubber parts.

[DeepakMenon]

Read the part number on the Blistein and let me know, will tell you if it is HD or not


More often than not hard ride is in the order of the following
- Lower Control Arms
- Strut [They rarely go]
- Strut Mount
- In the Rear, Control Arms
- Sub frame bushes

Jack up the car and check for tell tale signs

[sportz_kruzer]

Originally Posted by Aroy

If the car goes up and down when pushed down, the the dampers are not functioning. The car should come up smoothly without any over shoot. That may also account for bumpy ride.

If the tyres are rock hard they will have no elasticity to absorb road undulation. This happens when they are quite old (> 5 years) and have deteriorated in the sun. Hard rubber will result in broken tyre cords, and unless you want the tyres to fail please get them changed ASAP. One clue of bad tyre carcass is perennial punctures in warm climate.

If the dampers are gone and the tyres are hard, then the rubber parts of the suspension have also deteriorated. So, when changing the tyres and the dampers check the rest of the suspension for bent members, and change all rubber parts.

Thanks for the insights. ..when I give a sudden push down and let go the car would bounce back up..then go just a tiny bit down n back.

I agree on the tyres part, which tyres would be best keeping comfort in mind. I am sedate driver n rarely ever rip the merc. Would turanza be a good choice? Its a 15 incher with steel wheels. Also would u recommend switching to alloys?

[sportz_kruzer]

Originally Posted by DeepakMenon

Read the part number on the Blistein and let me know, will tell you if it is HD or not


More often than not hard ride is in the order of the following
- Lower Control Arms
- Strut [They rarely go]
- Strut Mount
- In the Rear, Control Arms
- Sub frame bushes

Jack up the car and check for tell tale signs

By pointing at lower control arm are you pointing at the bushes or something else? There are no noises sudden or otherwise when I over potholes etc.

I ll check the bilsteins. I remember seeing a blue sticker on the struts somewhere. .should find something there. .will keep u posted.

Thanks for the insights!

[DeepakMenon]

Originally Posted by sportz_kruzer

By pointing at lower control arm are you pointing at the bushes or something else? There are no noises sudden or otherwise when I over potholes etc.

I ll check the bilsteins. I remember seeing a blue sticker on the struts somewhere. .should find something there. .will keep u posted.

Thanks for the insights!

It is not necessary if LCA have gone it will make noise; most of noise starts with steering components

On the LCA, if yours is a early type then you will have to replace the entire control arm
on later, you can only change the bushes


The only way to be sure is to jack up and check all components

[Karadi]

Could any of my learned enthusiast friends on this forum tell me where the vacuum lines for the rear head restraints run? Is anyone able to tell me where I could locate the vacuum line / circuit diagram for the car in totality. I describe the problem that I face:-
The right head restraint releases and drops down but the left one does not. Three weeks ago was the last occasion that I operated the dashboard switch to drop the restraints, the right one released first and then the left released after a delay of a few seconds. Today only the right released and after repeated tries I noticed that there is a soft click heard but the restraint does not drop down and then some tiime later a second click is heard. I suspect that the vacuum connection or the mechanism is faulty / sticky. The big question is how do I reach the lines and if need be how to lubricate the mechanism. Please help pals !

[DeepakMenon]

Originally Posted by Karadi

Could any of my learned enthusiast friends on this forum tell me where the vacuum lines for the rear head restraints run? Is anyone able to tell me where I could locate the vacuum line / circuit diagram for the car in totality. I describe the problem that I face:-
The right head restraint releases and drops down but the left one does not. Three weeks ago was the last occasion that I operated the dashboard switch to drop the restraints, the right one released first and then the left released after a delay of a few seconds. Today only the right released and after repeated tries I noticed that there is a soft click heard but the restraint does not drop down and then some tiime later a second click is heard. I suspect that the vacuum connection or the mechanism is faulty / sticky. The big question is how do I reach the lines and if need be how to lubricate the mechanism. Please help pals !

I have the vaccum diagram, however its at my home in a hard copy manual and cant access it, meanwhile you can refer to the screen shot from EPC that shows the wire running

The wire is behind the carpet that covers the petrol tank from the boot, lean inside and you will see; do the following

1. Remove the pipe off the offending headrest; ask someone to to press the button
2. Feel for vaccum using your finger, if you feel vaccum then its the actuator that is bad
3. if you dont feel for vaccum then, trace that wire to see where it is leaking

I assuming your vaccum pump works, as the line to the headrest is a common one which split for two head rest

Let me know what you find out; if its the restraint, thenit can also be the locking mechanism or actuator or some small pin etc. Will let you know what to do



Screen Shot of the EPC



Generic part diagram, will send you more specific from my manual if you want in few days

[Karadi]

Originally Posted by DeepakMenon

I have the vaccum diagram, however its at my home in a hard copy manual and cant access it, meanwhile you can refer to the screen shot from EPC that shows the wire running
=========

Thank you for the reply and pardon me for my ignorance- how do I get hold of the EPC?

[DeepakMenon]

Originally Posted by Karadi

Thank you for the reply and pardon me for my ignorance- how do I get hold of the EPC?

You will need to buy a license for EPC, dont ask me how I got it; but I did; however you can get most of the part numbers from the below site, however keep in mind that it does not cover all W124 models and things can will be different in our cars; however 90% is accurate

Things change due to
1. Part number for our cars were newer versions
2. SOme parts where specific to the later models
3. VIN specific changes
4. Color, shade of trim varied based on VIN
5. Suspension components are VIN specific, you can get all sort of bad tuning with wrong suspension [there are 5-6 types of springs for example] You will need a VIN


The best bet is always go to MB; they charge a reasonable extra, but they will get you the right part always. Period; part suppliers in India are mostly ignorant [They have chalta hai attitude]



Rest, I will help when and where I can

Part Website with part numbers
http://www.mbpartsworld.com/

[Karadi]

Thank you Mr. Deepak Menon !

[Karadi]

I have a question for Mr. Deepak Menon and any others who are in a position to respond:-Is there a possibility of swapping the right drivers mirror (OVRM) of a RHD car with that of a right passenger mirror (with the relevant rubber shroud / garnish) of a LHD car? I would prefer to have a convex mirror and hence the question. Where could I source the same if it is possible and what would be the outlay that I would have to be prepared for?
Thanks.