[DeepakMenon]

Originally Posted by sportz_kruzer

How do you get rid of the old oil?

dump it at my friendly mechanic place,

I guess these guys sell it or something

[Right]

Originally Posted by manikjeet

I told you Sir to Use Mineral Oil. Please switch back and i will also come with you.

Thanks Manikjeet. I know you can always been counted upon! While mineral is certainly better in case one hasn't ever switched to semi-synthetic/synthetic. To switch back I guess a flush would be essential? Am not too keen to flush such an old engine. Having said that the fact remains if I one does not get leaks probably synthetic is better in the long run, especially since we get rather low temperatures up here in the far north.

You truly are a gem and thanks again for all your help in finding indie garages in Chandigarh.

Originally Posted by DeepakMenon

I would not suggest a switch back, if your car has been running on synthetic all this while; either way synthetic is a better oil

I change my oil when I have nothing to do on a weekend, takes me 15 mins, one can never change oil too much

manual says 10K is service A which includes oil change

Thanks Deepak. Loved your restoration thread and the results.

I am not so mechanically inclined, hence would leave the oil changes to the experts. I actually owned and now again own the car restored by Ricky_63 (in case you've seen the thread). I sold the car to him back in early 2013 and bought it back last year, after it had changed a couple of hands. The issue I am facing now is it's got an oil leak and the previous owner put synthetic oil in it (as an error as I was told). Am not too keen to flush the engine to refuel the engine with mineral/semi-synthetic, since most experts tend to believe the detergents can take away sludge that's collected over the years causing massive issue. The overall "good" cleaning properties of synthetic oil tend to do the same.

Anyway looks like I'll have to stick to synthetic considering the aforementioned. Would still love to get inputs from 250/300D (non-turbo) owners as to what oil/grade they've been tanking up with.

Look forward to interacting with you more in the future. Thanks again!

[DeepakMenon]

Thanks Deepak. Loved your restoration thread and the results.

I am not so mechanically inclined, hence would leave the oil changes to the experts. I actually owned and now again own the car restored by Ricky_63 (in case you've seen the thread). I sold the car to him back in early 2013 and bought it back last year, after it had changed a couple of hands. The issue I am facing now is it's got an oil leak and the previous owner put synthetic oil in it (as an error as I was told). Am not too keen to flush the engine to refuel the engine with mineral/semi-synthetic, since most experts tend to believe the detergents can take away sludge that's collected over the years causing massive issue. The overall "good" cleaning properties of synthetic oil tend to do the same.

Anyway looks like I'll have to stick to synthetic considering the aforementioned. Would still love to get inputs from 250/300D (non-turbo) owners as to what oil/grade they've been tanking up with.

Look forward to interacting with you more in the future. Thanks again!

Where is the engine leaking, what is the engine number, some of diesel engine have some known issues with leak and i may be able to point you to the right direction

[sportz_kruzer]

Mine (M111.961) developed a leak after I switched back to mineral. .the car was factory fitted with synthetic (identified by light golden color) so after the second oil change the rear crank seal began to weep..then cry..a drop of oil could always be seen readily at the bottom most point of the transmission ..at the engine tranny border..also clutch started to get affected as it had begun to shudder. Tried seals from palika bhawan...all bogus stuff ..finally got a good used one which did the job. So now am running a semi synthetic (magnatec) .

Apparently the design of the seals have changed and they are of flanged type as compared to the spring loaded kinds we r used to seeing. These have little elasticity and also need a tool to be fitted as if its tried by hand and the seal doesent go in straight the seal rubber loses its geometry and will leak... which is precisely what happened in my case. The seal started leaking right after the tranny went in.

I had put up pics of the old n new seals some months ago in this thread and had shared my issue (please refer page 19 of this thread) Apparently the older (and better) design is not available anymore.

[Viraat13]

Originally Posted by Right

I am not so mechanically inclined, hence would leave the oil changes to the experts. I actually owned and now again own the car restored by Ricky_63 (in case you've seen the thread). I sold the car to him back in early 2013 and bought it back last year, after it had changed a couple of hands. The issue I am facing now is it's got an oil leak and the previous owner put synthetic oil in it (as an error as I was told). Am not too keen to flush the engine to refuel the engine with mineral/semi-synthetic, since most experts tend to believe the detergents can take away sludge that's collected over the years causing massive issue. The overall "good" cleaning properties of synthetic oil tend to do the same.

Anyway looks like I'll have to stick to synthetic considering the aforementioned. Would still love to get inputs from 250/300D (non-turbo) owners as to what oil/grade they've been tanking up with.

Look forward to interacting with you more in the future. Thanks again!

No engine flush, it'll cause more damage than good. What you've read about it stripping away the useful sludge is true. If the car used to run on mineral, carry on using mineral oil. I used Mobil diesel engine oil while I owned a diesel W124. It lasted really well. I also used to put about half a litre of engine oil with every other tankful of diesel because the Euro 3 rated diesel we get these days isn't as oily as these cars need, it'll make the car much smoother.

[DeepakMenon]

Originally Posted by sportz_kruzer

Mine (M111.961) developed a leak after I switched back to mineral. .the car was factory fitted with synthetic (identified by light golden color) so after the second oil change the rear crank seal began to weep..then cry..a drop of oil could always be seen readily at the bottom most point of the transmission ..at the engine tranny border..also clutch started to get affected as it had begun to shudder. Tried seals from palika bhawan...all bogus stuff ..finally got a good used one which did the job. So now am running a semi synthetic (magnatec) .

Apparently the design of the seals have changed and they are of flanged type as compared to the spring loaded kinds we r used to seeing. These have little elasticity and also need a tool to be fitted as if its tried by hand and the seal doesent go in straight the seal rubber loses its geometry and will leak... which is precisely what happened in my case. The seal started leaking right after the tranny went in.

I had put up pics of the old n new seals some months ago in this thread and had shared my issue (please refer page 19 of this thread) Apparently the older (and better) design is not available anymore.

Seems I missed that post, That seal is available from MB if quote a part number, Hope it is resolved now else I will help you with the part number

If you ask me stick with Synthetic and call it a day

[sportz_kruzer]

Oh I didnt know MB is kind enough to supply a standalone part as opposing to insisting they do the service themselves to replace it. thats really good! Could you please help me with the part number and enlighten the right channel to order it though? I am running a used seal and its not a comfortable thought! :-|

[DeepakMenon]

Originally Posted by sportz_kruzer

Oh I didnt know MB is kind enough to supply a standalone part as opposing to insisting they do the service themselves to replace it. thats really good! Could you please help me with the part number and enlighten the right channel to order it though? I am running a used seal and its not a comfortable thought! :-|

VIN and the approximate location of this seal, as it will help me get you the part number as I have never personally seen the seal

[DeepakMenon]

Ok Never mind got it, assuming yours in E220

Part : A0179977447
Name : SEAL RING,Crankshaft sealing,rear


This the aluminum cover in your pic, just incase it is wrapped
Part : 6010110108
Name : COVER,Crankshaft sealing,rear


Cost of the seal on peach part is 45 USD, and the aluminum cover 32 USD; this is just to give you a idea. Call your MB service department tell them you want these two parts; they will take money upfront and arrange it for you

[sportz_kruzer]

Originally Posted by DeepakMenon

Ok Never mind got it, assuming yours in E220

Part : A0179977447
Name : SEAL RING,Crankshaft sealing,rear


This the aluminum cover in your pic, just incase it is wrapped
Part : 6010110108
Name : COVER,Crankshaft sealing,rear


Cost of the seal on peach part is 45 USD, and the aluminum cover 32 USD; this is just to give you a idea. Call your MB service department tell them you want these two parts; they will take money upfront and arrange it for you

Thanks a lot!! I thought the aluminum part n the seal were one unit. .yes mine is a petrol e220 the seal in question is the rear crank seal.

Thanks again! !

[Karadi]

Originally Posted by manikjeet

Can fellow members please guide me if Indian W124 came with Outside Temp Display.

Im my opinion, the indian assembly did hon have an outside temperature sensor.

[DeepakMenon]

Temp display Can be easily retrofitted, the console has space for it, the bumper has a hole to mount it behind the number plate; there are blank wiring; its quite plug and play

getting the entire wiring, sensor and display cheap is another discussion

[Karadi]

Originally Posted by manikjeet

I have two new problems with my car.
....
Also the battery drainage issue came back and I have tired everything.

Will get a kill switch installed as a last resort..

I had the same problem and I installed a battery kill switch, but subsequently I got the comfort control relay unit under the rear seat changed. The battery drain is now only 0.01 amp (which is 10mA ) and acceptable in my view, I have not faced any problem as such, I also have a new relay to be fitted near the fuse box, but have not got down to it as the problem appears to have abated considerably.

[sportz_kruzer]

Any ideas what this plug having settings from 1 to 7 is?. It sits on the battery side of my petrol e220. Its kind of a plug which when pulled out shows 7 pins. Is this some kind of a timing adjustment or something?

[Viraat13]

Originally Posted by sportz_kruzer

Any ideas what this plug having settings from 1 to 7 is?. It sits on the battery side of my petrol e220. Its kind of a plug which when pulled out shows 7 pins. Is this some kind of a timing adjustment or something?

This is the EZL setting which is tuned by a Bosch engineer before every car leaves the factory floor. The setting is NOT TO BE CHANGED. Each EZL matches with the specific engine. I see remains of the wire seal which has broken.

EDIT — It is called something else in the E220, HFM something or the other. It's called EZL in the pre 1992 vehicles, but either way, it isn't meant to be adjusted in these cars. The pre 1992 cars on the other hand, are adjustable according to the kind of fuel you are using.