[Viraat13]

Originally Posted by blackcloud

That is the next .... first-hand till now.

Sounds like a LLR/throttle body issue to me. See if cleaning the throttle body helps. I have a similar problem in my car wherein the car switches off when I am coming to a halt, so to fix it, I adjusted the throttle cable manually, and made the idle a little faster, so now it doesn't switch off.

When you face this issue, have you tried flooring the accelerator pedal for a second and releasing it? If it seems to solve the problem, it's either a faulty accelerator cable or a dirty throttle body. Check these two things before starting elsewhere.

[blackcloud]

Thanks Viraat13 and sportz_kruzer! The problem was identified to be the throttle body. The contacts of 3 wires had gone weak and had almost become disconnected from the throttle actuator. They have re-soldered these wires and while at it, also cleaned the throttle body.

I am now officially on the look out for a new throttle body and engine harness.

[Viraat13]

Originally Posted by blackcloud

Thanks Viraat13 and sportz_kruzer! The problem was identified to be the throttle body. The contacts of 3 wires had gone weak and had almost become disconnected from the throttle actuator. They have re-soldered these wires and while at it, also cleaned the throttle body.

I am now officially on the look out for a new throttle body and engine harness.

When buying a new throttle body, make sure that it wasn't produced in the 90's, because it'll have the same stupid biodegradable cr*p wire. If you're going the second hand route, don't. If you do, get it off a car that is being cut up/parted in front of you, and get the LLR rewired as soon as you have decided to keep it. Speaking of which, try getting your current one rewired just to see if it is okay.

Engine harness is something that you can get right here, might even get it cheaper. Do some research. And if you're getting it from the UK, make sure the retailer matches the harness with the VIN. You won't get a harness for the E220 in the US, because it was never sold there.

[Karadi]

Hi, I am experiencing battery going flat in exactly 8 days from full charge. This being a 70Ah capacity battery, I reckon that there is a constant drain of about .3 amp to do this. What would be the drain caused by the clock? What other items such as capacitors / diodes are in the circuit all the time? Alternator was my first suspect and it is fault free on check at the electrician. Any suggestions as my digital multimeter is bust at the moment i just thought of sounding out the support group before I start on the circuit wise electrical demands.

[Viraat13]

Originally Posted by Karadi

Hi, I am experiencing battery going flat in exactly 8 days from full charge. This being a 70Ah capacity battery, I reckon that there is a constant drain of about .3 amp to do this. What would be the drain caused by the clock? What other items such as capacitors / diodes are in the circuit all the time? Alternator was my first suspect and it is fault free on check at the electrician. Any suggestions as my digital multimeter is bust at the moment i just thought of sounding out the support group before I start on the circuit wise electrical demands.

You'll have to use a multimeter. Remove all the fuses, and replace them one by one to see which circuit is drawing power, and then you can isolate the problem further. The clock on it's own isn't capable of killing the battery.

[FlatOut]

Originally Posted by Karadi

Hi, I am experiencing battery going flat in exactly 8 days from full charge. This being a 70Ah capacity battery, I reckon that there is a constant drain of about .3 amp to do this. What would be the drain caused by the clock? What other items such as capacitors / diodes are in the circuit all the time? Alternator was my first suspect and it is fault free on check at the electrician. Any suggestions as my digital multimeter is bust at the moment i just thought of sounding out the support group before I start on the circuit wise electrical demands.

I have (just once) had an electric aerial open circuit problem and sometimes the electric windows can be used with the ignition off - even with the key out (I usually leave keys in my cars, to prevent loss). This seems to be linked with battery drain - if a 124 isn't to be used for a fortnight or more, I generally disconnect the battery rather than spend hours trying to pinpoint then repair a fault. If a battery holds charge over a week in freezing conditions, I am generally lazy enough not to bother sorting a leak.

Electrical problems are about the only ones I have ever had with these million mile machines. Electric window regulators wear and sunroofs can fail to operate - this can be a bit of a nightmare to repair although it is a mechanical problem.

[Aroy]

There can be only three types of problems
. The battery may be self discharging. Get it tested under load.
. The alternator may not be charging the battery fully
. Some circuit is bleeding the battery. This is a tricky thing to diagnose as it involves isolating each circuit and monitoring the battery discharge.

Though it does not happen often but the starter solenoid may be leaking current. The only method to test this is to disconnect the starter lead and monitor the battery condition.

The best long term remedy is to get an Ammeter installed in the primary battery circuit, then you will be able to see the charging and discharging current in real time.

[Karadi]

Originally Posted by FlatOut

I have (just once) had an electric aerial open circuit problem and sometimes the electric windows can be used with the ignition off - even with the key out (I usually leave keys in my cars, to prevent loss).
===========Electrical problems are about the only ones I have ever had with these million mile machines. Electric window regulators wear and sunroofs can fail to operate - this can be a bit of a nightmare to repair although it is a mechanical problem.

The W124's have a comfort control relay, which remains energized if one of the two front doors are left unlocked. I have already disabled this supply to the relay...yet I have this drain.

[vikramvicky1984]

Originally Posted by Viraat13

Sounds like a LLR/throttle body issue to me. See if cleaning the throttle body helps. I have a similar problem in my car wherein the car switches off when I am coming to a halt, so to fix it, I adjusted the throttle cable manually, and made the idle a little faster, so now it doesn't switch off.

When you face this issue, have you tried flooring the accelerator pedal for a second and releasing it? If it seems to solve the problem, it's either a faulty accelerator cable or a dirty throttle body. Check these two things before starting elsewhere.

How did you adjust the cable manually? Please explain in detail.
I am facing the same problem right after getting throttle body cleaned and tuning done

[Viraat13]

Originally Posted by vikramvicky1984

How did you adjust the cable manually? Please explain in detail.
I am facing the same problem right after getting throttle body cleaned and tuning done

You might want to wait for while before adjusting the throttle. Let the car settle down a little.
Did your mechanic remove the LLR to clean it? Might have caused the insulation to break on the inside.

In the attached picture, I have outlined the throttle adjuster nut. Tighten it to increase the RPM. I find that the perfect adjustment is when you can fit a double folded sheet of paper between the butterfly and it's resting place. You'll know what I'm talking about as you will notice it as soon as you tighten the nut.
You only need to increase the idle to about 850 or so to prevent it from shutting down. Some trial and error will yield the best result.

EDIT — Forgot the picture!

[bIte tHe bulLet]

Gentlemen...(and ladies!)

Have a question. The right rear window power window has been on an indefinite non-cooperative movement (pun intended) and refuses to open or shut with either the central console switch, or the rear switch.

Ideas?

Also, how do-able is opening the front instrument cluster and giving the panel inside a lick of matt black paint - the panel for lack of a better word has started to look ratty! The front speaker grilles are due to get a spray over, because of unsightly condensation rust on the edges of it.

Speaking of speakers (see what happened there?) I'm also at my wits end with finding appropriate sized speakers that will fit in the front (and rear) enclosures, without ANY drilling/cutting. Illusion/Hertz/Infinity - have no strong preference. Have a 4 channel soundstream amp carried over from my Safari, which I'd happily plonk into 'Herr Kampfpanzer', allowing him a bit of a growl in the mornings...

[Viraat13]

Originally Posted by bIte tHe bulLet

Gentlemen...(and ladies!)

Have a question. The right rear window power window has been on an indefinite non-cooperative movement (pun intended) and refuses to open or shut with either the central console switch, or the rear switch.

Ideas?

Also, how do-able is opening the front instrument cluster and giving the panel inside a lick of matt black paint - the panel for lack of a better word has started to look ratty! The front speaker grilles are due to get a spray over, because of unsightly condensation rust on the edges of it.

Speaking of speakers (see what happened there?) I'm also at my wits end with finding appropriate sized speakers that will fit in the front (and rear) enclosures, without ANY drilling/cutting. Illusion/Hertz/Infinity - have no strong preference. Have a 4 channel soundstream amp carried over from my Safari, which I'd happily plonk into 'Herr Kampfpanzer', allowing him a bit of a growl in the mornings...

Does the window motor make any noise when you press the button? If not, it's either got a loose connection, or if it does, then it's a physical problem with the channels and stuff. If you hear the motor, try helping it down with your hand to see.
I find the best way to keep the windows in shape is by giving them a full workout every few days.

The meter console is pretty complex, I wouldn't know how feasible that solution is. Why don't you search for a disassembly guide and then you'll know?

Either use four inch speakers with washers, so no drilling or anything involved. Or go the OEM way and install a set of Rainbow. They just clip on, exact size. Hand made in Germany and all that. Should set you back by around 20K for a set of four. But they sound FANTASTIC.

[bIte tHe bulLet]

Originally Posted by Viraat13

Does the window motor make any noise when you press the button? If not, it's either got a loose connection, or if it does, then it's a physical problem with the channels and stuff.

The meter console is pretty complex, I wouldn't know how feasible that solution is. Why don't you search for a disassembly guide and then you'll know?

Or go the OEM way and install a set of Rainbow. They just clip on, exact size. Hand made in Germany and all that. Should set you back by around 20K for a set of four. But they sound FANTASTIC.

Thanks Viraat.

The window is dead as a dodo. No noises, creaks or wistful sighs at all...

Yeah, didn't want to take the meter apart and then be scratching my head to put the ruddy thing back - have already had one little scare with the trip meter, so studiously avoid touching anything on the console!

Looked for the rainbows - couldn't for the life of me find where to order and pay for 'em.. apparently gunbir would be the messiah and procure for needy souls like ourselves, but not anymore.. I could be completely out of the ball park though, so happy to have some help pointing in the right direction.

Cheers for taking the time to have a chin wag!

[Viraat13]

Originally Posted by bIte tHe bulLet

Thanks Viraat.

The window is dead as a dodo. No noises, creaks or wistful sighs at all...

Yeah, didn't want to take the meter apart and then be scratching my head to put the ruddy thing back - have already had one little scare with the trip meter, so studiously avoid touching anything on the console!

Looked for the rainbows - couldn't for the life of me find where to order and pay for 'em.. apparently gunbir would be the messiah and procure for needy souls like ourselves, but not anymore.. I could be completely out of the ball park though, so happy to have some help pointing in the right direction.

Cheers for taking the time to have a chin wag!

Worst case scenario is that the motor is completely burnt out and so you'll need a replacement. (Has happened to me, in the case of the front left window in one of my cars.) Best case scenario, there is a break in the circuit somewhere and it is easily fixed (Again, has happened to me).

One very important rule to follow with the trip meter is that you should NEVER reset it while you are on the move. Always be at a full standstill before resetting the trip meter. The thing is, that the gears inside age rather quickly, and so are prone to damage if you reset it while you're on the move.

You're located in Bombay, but I know where to get the goods here in Delhi — Contact DRIVEN in East of Kailash or Mukul Patel of Patel Auto Services Pvt Ltd, Gurgaon.

[bIte tHe bulLet]

Originally Posted by Viraat13

Worst case scenario is that the motor is completely burnt out and so you'll need a replacement. (Has happened to me, in the case of the front left window in one of my cars.) Best case scenario, there is a break in the circuit somewhere and it is easily fixed (Again, has happened to me).

One very important rule to follow with the trip meter is that you should NEVER reset it while you are on the move.

You're located in Bombay, but I know where to get the goods here in Delhi — Contact DRIVEN in East of Kailash or Mukul Patel of Patel Auto Services Pvt Ltd, Gurgaon.

Aah. Have a champ coming over, so will ask him to have a look see on the window front.

Aware of the trip meter being reset only at standstill, which is exactly what I did, but it decided to go belly up - and I crapped myself! On a wing and a prayer, when I gingerly tried to reset it again while waiting to pick up a friend, voila - it was all hunky dory of it's own accord. Ever since then, I don't touch the ruddy thing..

I'm possibly in Delhi later in December, so will whack myself down to Driven. Else my FIL's cars go to Patel, so will also call and check there!

Thanks much..