[kkg]

Originally Posted by Motard_Blr

A new issue has cropped up in my 2011 Nano.

The idling has become unsteady. Sometimes the engine does not idle on starting and dies immediately. When I crank it again, the idling becomes normal. This morning when started, the idling was cycling up and down. When I stopped and restarted the engine, it was fine. Does anyone have any experience with this problem? Should it be attended to urgently?

Thanks.

Get your fuel pump checked. I had kind of similar problem and fuel pump gave up eventually after some months.

[Motard_Blr]

Originally Posted by kkg

Get your fuel pump checked. I had kind of similar problem and fuel pump gave up eventually after some months.

It looks like an urgent visit to Concorde is due. A fuel pump failure would leave the car stranded!

[Tanmay K]

A starting issue has cropped up on the Nano. Irrespective of cold or warm weather, when I turn the key there is a 2-3 second delay before the engine starts to crank. I can hear the usual click sound after turning the key. Earlier, there was almost no delay between me turning the key and the engine beginning to crank. If I now let go of the key after a short moment like I used to, there is no cranking. If I am persistent and keep the key in turned position, the engine will eventually crank.

A couple of days ago I got stranded at a red light after the car refused to start after I had turned off the engine. I pushed the car to the side and after a couple of minutes and a few attempts, managed to start it up again after I realized that I need to keep turning the key to start up the engine.

The only pattern I have seen is that this problem is more likely to occur if the car is started after 10-15 hours of being parked. The longer the time for which the car is parked, the more pronounced is the cranking delay.

The battery is fine from what I saw through the OBD.

Is it the ignition switch? Or the fuel pump? Something else?

[nijelj]

Originally Posted by Tanmay K

. If I now let go of the key after a short moment like I used to, there is no cranking. If I am persistent and keep the key in turned position, the engine will eventually crank.

The battery is fine from what I saw through the OBD.

Is it the ignition switch? Or the fuel pump? Something else?

For the fuel pump, you could listen for the hum of the pump when you switch on.
I have this problem, but it happens if the car is run very hot (Hot day+Full AC+Traffic+2 hours of it) and then started after 15 minutes.

Since you have OBD, can you check to see if the battery voltage is dipping (approx 2 Volts) for the first two seconds after you try to crank, but before the starter is actually turning. If it is dropping, then the starter relay must be transferring power to the starter, but starter not able to turn the engine. If the battery voltage is not dropping immediately, then it could be a lazy relay.

[Tanmay K]

Originally Posted by nijelj

For the fuel pump, you could listen for the hum of the pump when you switch on.
I have this problem, but it happens if the car is run very hot (Hot day+Full AC+Traffic+2 hours of it) and then started after 15 minutes.

Since you have OBD, can you check to see if the battery voltage is dipping (approx 2 Volts) for the first two seconds after you try to crank, but before the starter is actually turning. If it is dropping, then the starter relay must be transferring power to the starter, but starter not able to turn the engine. If the battery voltage is not dropping immediately, then it could be a lazy relay.

Thank you for the insight. I checked the voltage graph. It seems the relay is ok, the starter might be having a problem. The voltage starts dropping for a second or two before I can hear the engine crank and continues to drop (at a faster rate) after the cranking starts.

[Tanmay K]

Originally Posted by Tanmay K

Thank you for the insight. I checked the voltage graph. It seems the relay is ok, the starter might be having a problem. The voltage starts dropping for a second or two before I can hear the engine crank and continues to drop (at a faster rate) after the cranking starts.

I'm not sure if this adds more information; I hope so. For about 2.5 seconds after turning the key, the voltage stays constant and then drops after the cranking begins.

[Cuatro]

Originally Posted by Tanmay K

My problem was that the AC was not cooling when the car was standing still but the cooling alright when moving. I read online about this and it did seem that AC gas could be low.

I was told by the SA that there is a gas leakage in the condenser whose replacement would set me back by ~4.5k. I was skeptical them not go ahead with the replacement, however did tell them to refill the gas for 500 bucks.
.

I am currently facing the same issue with my Nano CX 2011 which has run 67000 Kms. The A/C specialist, (not the A.S.S) in Hyderabad advised me that he would check for leakages as the gas has run out within 6 months. He thoroughly checked for leakages and found 'none'. He then said, he would fill gas and if it runs out within 6-7 months we would replace the coil which could cost between Rs.4-7 K.

I must say, in spite of all the ageing issues and spare replacements, we still find the Nano to be extremely practical and cost effective. Every time we think of replacing the Nano, we go back on the decision and conclude on keeping it for some more time. I am keen on running it to 100K Kms. Let's see how successful I will be. Given the current running, I am closing in on that figure, maybe in a year's time I should reach that.

[N.r.K]

Originally Posted by Tanmay K

I'm not sure if this adds more information; I hope so. For about 2.5 seconds after turning the key, the voltage stays constant and then drops after the cranking begins.

Any update on this? I'm facing the same issue and i'm planning to visit the service centre in a couple of days.

Attachment 1438447

Originally Posted by Cuatro

I am currently facing the same issue with my Nano CX 2011 which has run 67000 Kms. The A/C specialist, (not the A.S.S) in Hyderabad advised me that he would check for leakages as the gas has run out within 6 months. He thoroughly checked for leakages and found 'none'. He then said, he would fill gas and if it runs out within 6-7 months we would replace the coil which could cost between Rs.4-7 K.

Maybe, you have already, but if you haven't, please try the DIY air filter cleaning. Makes a huge difference in terms of cooling. Totally worth the half an hour of time!

[turbodude]

After the headlight stalk issue fixed in October, new issue has come up now. On 18th Nov, I was coming from Pune to Navi Mumbai and after Khalapur toll plaza, Nano started rattling. The rattling sound was coming from engine side so I stopped and checked by putting car in neutral plus handbrake. But it didn't re-appear. I stepped up on accelerator but still it didn't rattle.

Once I started driving again, the rattles became prominent and as usual I got scared . Called up my friend who also works in Airoli Mindspace but in different company. He told me to drive calmly and tested the car once I reached Airoli.

He advised me to send the car to authorized service center ASAP. Neither he nor myself could figure out whether it's a gearbox issue, axle issue or something else.

Has anyone experienced such sudden rattling noises from the car?

[MK11]

I have been facing a regular issue with the doors of my Nano where sometimes they refuse to open and in one instance the driver side door refused to shut. Once the door handle came off to my surprise while I was trying to open the rear door. I have taken my car to Wasan Motors in Deonar quite a few times and all they did was some greasing in the lock area but the problem still persists at times. As for the door handle they refuse to change it under warranty that's when I had a word with a senior person at the workshop and asked him to give me in writing the reason behind their refusal. He just waived off the door handle charges from the bill.

[nijelj]

Don't worry, its not another issue. I leave my Nano parked outside the house. Not only is she exposed to Nature,but also to street urchins. Had been facing a problem of loosening of the left Outside Rear View Mirror (ORVM). Its due to these pesky kids turning it completely outwards. Last time, I had taken it to Concorde and gotten it fixed along with service. Since it happened again, I thought I should find out how to do it myself. Finally got around to doing it yesterday. Sorry I didn't take any photos at that time.
What you need:
2 13mm spanners
A flat head screwdriver (or something flat and rigid to seperate the cover)
The key is pointing towards the joint which is to be separated. Only the outer side cover is to be removed. The cover on inner side is only for aesthetics, I felt.

It is fairly easily to remove the cover. No heart-in-the-mouth inducing cracks are heard.

There are two nuts on both sides of the shaft which tighten a spring. This tightening is what makes the ORVM from flapping in the wind. The nut at the bottom is easy to access once the cover is removed.
The upper nut has to be held while tightening. No need to remove the mirror for this. Let the spanner in through where I have shown with the key.

Tighten to your content. Put the cover back and you're done!

[Motard_Blr]

Originally Posted by Motard_Blr

My 2011 Nano is showing signs of a weak battery. I am considering replacing it soon before it leaves me stranded. My question is whether anybody here has replaced the 25Ah battery with a 35Ah battery (38B20 battery or a different model). I know that electrically there will be no problem but I wanted to check on space constraints.

Thanks.

Originally Posted by Motard_Blr

A new issue has cropped up in my 2011 Nano.

The idling has become unsteady. Sometimes the engine does not idle on starting and dies immediately. When I crank it again, the idling becomes normal. This morning when started, the idling was cycling up and down. When I stopped and restarted the engine, it was fine. Does anyone have any experience with this problem? Should it be attended to urgently?

Thanks.

Originally Posted by Motard_Blr

It looks like an urgent visit to Concorde is due. A fuel pump failure would leave the car stranded!

After a visit to Concorde but not before another scare (only clicking, no cranking), I was informed that the battery was the cause of all the problems. So I got the standard battery replaced with a 35 Ah, 34B20 Amaron Flo battery. The bigger battery fits but just. The cranking is now fast and the car starts fine. Mostly. The unsteady idling still happens on occasion but because the issue is intermittent, it's hard to demonstrate to a technician. I suppose I'll have to live with the issue for some more time until it becomes more frequent.

[avingodb]

Originally Posted by Motard_Blr

So I got the standard battery replaced with a 35 Ah, 34B20 Amaron Flo battery.

AAM-FL-00042B20R is what I am considering ordering online, are you talking of the same one?

[Motard_Blr]

Originally Posted by avingodb

AAM-FL-00042B20R is what I am considering ordering online, are you talking of the same one?

What I have is the 34B20R. I don't know if the model you are thinking of will fit under the seat. The one I have clears the seat frame by about an inch. If the battery is too tall, fitting it or removing it will be very difficult.

[avingodb]

Originally Posted by Motard_Blr

What I have is the 34B20R.

That one fits but without the cover (i hope that is ok) and cranking with new battery is super fast as you mentioned.