[Chewbacca]

Originally Posted by rav11stars

Should I get some sort of touch-up or is it okay to ignore?

The damage is negligible. Wait till there are few more scrapes (eventually there will be many) and then do a touch-up job ONLY.

I was very sensitive when I purchased my first car. Now after owning 3 cars and spending loads of money in "car-care" stuff I can tell you for sure that this underbelly coat job is a trap, a scam. I appreciate 3M services only for their detailing jobs. Many of us fail to understand that rust is just a layer of oxidation that can be scraped off, cleaned and coated with paint. So wait and watch and then take action.

Over the years I have also learnt that we should rather pay more attention to the insides of all 4 doors. After every car wash the water seeps in and the wetness stays for a long time because there's no ventilation inside the door. Also there is gunk and rotten leaves at the bottom seams of the door - this is the area that starts rusting first, the rot is from the inside. So, every year after the rains, I strip down all 4 doors and then get that area cleaned, dried and sprayed with a clear coat enamel. You may also try these products but I really hate anything that is black.

[prithm]

Hi Chewbacca,

I am not sure if I understand what you mean by...

So, every year after the rains, I strip down all 4 doors and then get that area cleaned, dried and sprayed with a clear coat enamel.

Where exactly is this spot in modern cars?

I thought 3M gave the best service for the underbody treatment. I am also aware that rust is mere oxidation unlike chemical leaching on metal surface. But, given the current situation where manufacturers are moving towards thin metal and alternate (read "Plastic"), making sure underbody is covered with a proper paint (simple paint) is the best way to go and also something that needs to be repeated every couple of years.

If only Indian garages had sand blasters which can help us all.

[dinitrol]

Clarification : I do not have any vested interest in replying to this post

Rusting is a natural phenomenon and will happen mostly if you do to take care of your vehicle.

All vehicles do come with a factory coating on the under-side mostly using PVC, this does prevent rust but is more treated/applied to give the vehicle a anti-stone chip coating and provide some NVH

That said vehicles driven in the coastal areas do need a additional coating to prevent for rust damage. Rust in the initial stages if not rectified may go on to cause extensive damage.

Also as Chewbacca rightly pointed out it is the inner part of the vehicle like doors, bonnet and boot lids, fenders etc which need more protection as these are the parts wherein moisture can collect. We get our vehicles washed daily - water will seep in and collect in the doors with dust and leave it wet for a longer time.

Prefer to get a professional job done at a reputed CAR CARE center than your regular service dealer as the job may not be as through.

Also purchasing Quality Material and getting your vehicle treated under own supervision is a better option.

[Jeroen]

As some of you know Im big into classic cars. When I buy Another classic car I will always get it a full "Dinitrol" treatment. I have no experience of these treatments here in India. Only in my home country.

It will take them usually at least a full day to clean the car with high pressure hoses. They use special devices/probes to get into any hollow spaces. Use fiber optic camera to inspect. One or two days to dry, fix any wrotten bits and then another 1-2 days to apply the various Dinitrol components on the various parts of the car.

The firm I have been using advises to have the car checked every 5 Year. Such an inspection takes about 3-5 hours and they will clean and or reapply where necessary. In all the years I have been using them I have never ever had rust on the treated parts. It is expensive, but very good. The Problem is that only very few people really know how to clean and apply this stuff. In the Netherlands it will cost you about Euro 1000-1200 to get an average car treated. To put that in a bit pf perspective. A nice Classic Alfa Romeo Spider will cost you 7000-8000. a nice TR6 12-20000. A nice Mercedes w123 Euro 6-12.000. So, it is expensive, but as I buy my classics to keep I find this sort of treatment is worth my while.

Jeroen

[Autolock123]

Was reading through this post to decide on if i should opt for underbody coat on my new car..

while searching the web came across this official HYundai webpage which gives out the benefits of underbody coating. Link

[arjithin]

I recently purchased a 2.5 yr old ertiga zdi. I checked the car over hydrolic jack to check underbody damanges, and there are some really nasty scratches from humps which are deep and metal is exposed. Thses areas I can see rust; nothing alarming but metal outer surface is rusted.

Service center SA says that there was no underbody treatment given to the car so far and we should do one immediately. Costs 2600 for underbody coating (monsoon offer) + 900 for silenced coating.

I plan to keep this car for next 5yrs. Is it worth doing this treatment ? Are there alternatives??

[ghodlur]

Originally Posted by Autolock123

Was reading through this post to decide on if i should opt for underbody coat on my new car.

Even if the anti rust underbody coating application is applied once, you need to get it regularly inspected for any peel off or loss of coating. I generally do it once before the monsoons and once after the monsoons. I have it from 3M where two inspections per year and free top up is a part of the package.

Originally Posted by arjithin

I plan to keep this car for next 5yrs. Is it worth doing this treatment ? Are there alternatives??

Absolutely worth it to prevent any further deterioration of the metal. I would suggest to opt for 3M coating for that extra peace of mind and the reasons stated above. Is the cost of coating as you stated being provided by Maruti, what product do they use - Wurth, Dinitrol??

[purohitanuj]

Saw 3M container with warning stating is extremely flammable. Anyone has details on this? What are the risks due to open parking with underbody(3M painted) exposed to small fire? (e.g. crackers)? Does 3M enhances the risk of catching fire?

[prithm]

Originally Posted by purohitanuj

Saw 3M container with warning stating is extremely flammable. Anyone has details on this? What are the risks due to open parking with underbody(3M painted) exposed to small fire? (e.g. crackers)? Does 3M enhances the risk of catching fire?

What you read is right and it should be. All paints have carriers called Volatile Liquids (usually petro chemical spirits) which is used as a medium to dissolve and aid is dispersing paints and coats on surface. Due to their Non-Polar nature and high volatility, they just get evaporated or disperse at room temperature leaving behind the paint or coating on the surface.

Can you imagine painting or coating anything as hard as underbody paint with just hand brush or spray paint machine ? No way.

So, allay your fear. After the paint dries, you are safe and nothing will make that paint coat flammable again.

[k2max6]

From the posts here underbody coating seems to be a no do job for new cars but what about old ones. I have 2012 ANHC , should i get its underbody coated?
Although i got underbody coating for my getz when i purchased it in 2007 but had to change its crossmember(Rs.14k) due to rusting.It had done 80k on the odo.

[prithm]

Originally Posted by k2max6

From the posts here underbody coating seems to be a no do job for new cars but what about old ones. I have 2012 ANHC , should i get its underbody coated?
.

Why not. Even for brand new cars, this is a must do given the nonsense we guys run into on the roads. Also given the climatic conditions where you live, this is high on the list if you are in coastal weather.

No matter how old your car is, this a must do to keep it safe from the most vulnerable location where nature will act without mercy. Since not many of us can afford a car lift at our residence a yearly check and touch up is nothing more than a pilgrimage.

Go ahead and do it with a product of your choice.

[rex_varghese]

At a Toyota Service Center this morning, a person approached me and offered something called Engine Guard and Silencer Protection Coating. I think the service is from 3M.

Engine Guard is a protective coating for the engine casing and tubes/pipes in the engine bay, preventing from dust getting settled, ease of cleaning, prevents damage to rubber pipes/tubes due to climate triggered property changes. Costs Rs. 850/- and good for six months.

Silencer coating also provides similar kind of protection. Did not check on the cost or validity of this coating.

Any thoughts, feedback, experience with these coatings? Do we really need them? Can they cause any adverse effects (especially, with respect to the engine guard - does it affect heat dissipation)?

Regards
Rex

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by rex_varghese

Any thoughts, feedback, experience with these coatings? Do we really need them? Can they cause any adverse effects (especially, with respect to the engine guard - does it affect heat dissipation)?

Regards
Rex

I am not aware of the recent developments in this field, but in 2007, one SA at Maruti dealership advised me to get the engine coating done, citing the same benefits as you have mentioned.

They spray some sort of lacquer over the engine bay. If that's the same product, I'd say avoid it. Utter waste of money and the worst thing about that due to heat, it cracks(in 6 months) and starts coming off in patches, rendering your engine bay even more ugly. Won't comment on the heat dissipation aspect but it surely would have an effect to some extent.
Luckily, a fellow Zen owner overheard me and strictly warned me against the product after the SA had gone. He had that treatment on his engine bay, and it was looking horrendous to say the least.

Now coming to the silencer coating, its similar to the underbody coating except, its designed for sustaining very high temperatures. Having owned petrol cars mostly till date, I have seen exhaust cans corrode due to moisture buildup from the inside. So that's a pretty useless coating too. I had done this treatment on my M800 and Swift's exhaust. Can't comment on how useful it was for the Swift as we sold it off for another car, but for my 800, it hardly made any difference. The end can needed replacements after the usual 5year mark.

I have found underbody coatings to be useful, since they actually help some cause, if done properly. Other than that, teflons, engine bay coating etc are all waste of money.

Regards,
Shashi

[prithm]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Now coming to the silencer coating, its similar to the underbody coating except, its designed for sustaining very high temperatures. Having owned petrol cars mostly till date, I have seen exhaust cans corrode due to moisture buildup from the inside. So that's a pretty useless coating too. I had done this treatment on my M800 and Swift's exhaust. Can't comment on how useful it was for the Swift as we sold it off for another car, but for my 800, it hardly made any difference. The end can needed replacements after the usual 5year mark.

I have found underbody coatings to be useful, since they actually help some cause, if done properly. Other than that, teflons, engine bay coating etc are all waste of money.

Regards,
Shashi

True and touchwood. Lacquers used in many of the garages are not even automotive grade. I saw a engine lacquer application by done in old city of Secunderabad using Wood Lacquer. I was shocked, when I asked them what the hell were doing, they just smiled and said we have more experience than normal garages, so don't worry. Though the car was a restoration in progress, I just couldnt digest it for few moments.

Most of the lacquers or engine protection needs to be applied in thin film. This allows for heat exchange and avoid cracking and flaking. I buy mostly aerosol versions of corrosion protection liquids and then spray it on moist engine after washing. This allows for volatile gases to escape slowly and easy dispersal of product.

WARNING :Aerosol versions should not be applied on hot or warm engines.

Since I bought the Tufkote Sound Deadening and Underbody Bitumen based coat, I applied same on exhaust pipes also. Have checked it couple of times and don't see any flaking or powdering anywhere. But specialized products with high temperature resistance is advised. Since I didnt want to waste half a can of each product, I asked them to spray all over the exhaust pipes.

All Teflon coating done by garages are nothing but nuisance. Just snake oil.

[rex_varghese]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

I have found underbody coatings to be useful, since they actually help some cause, if done properly. Other than that, teflons, engine bay coating etc are all waste of money.

Originally Posted by prithm

True and touchwood.

All Teflon coating done by garages are nothing but nuisance. Just snake oil.

Thanks Leoshashi and prithm, for the feedback.

I've done under body coating for my car and continue to do that occasionally. I was thinking about rest of the stuff since they were from 3M and expected them to be genuine and useful. But, based on the feedback, I've decided to give them a skip for now.

Regards
Rex