[mjumrani]

Does anyone know where I can source the Ash Tray for the civic? I really need one at the moment.

Also, would someone be kind enough to post the pic of the ash tray and how it looks in the car?

[civic-sense]

A strange thing happened yesterday. After driving for some 30 mins, I parked my civic by a curb and then decided to move it a bit since it was too close to the curb. I tried starting the engine, but it refused. I tried again multiple times, but no avail. It would crank for half a second, suddenly all console lights would go off, and after half a second, comes back again, and crank for half a second, this process cycling.

After trying for several times, decided to call Honda breakdown service. After getting the number, and before attempting the call, I cranked the engine once more. There was a hesitation, but to my relief, this time it started. I couldn't dare myself to switch it off and test again.

So drove straight back home, parked, switched off and cranked again. Started as usual. Today, again, no problem.

I wonder what the problem was. If it was the battery, it shouldn't have cranked at all. Is the starter motor acting up? Should I wait till it actually breaks down, or should I show it to service?

[laluks]

Originally Posted by civic-sense

I wonder what the problem was. If it was the battery, it shouldn't have cranked at all. Is the starter motor acting up? Should I wait till it actually breaks down, or should I show it to service?

It was similar for me when the battery started acting up. For me one cell of the battery was weak, and the results of crank unpredictable. Sometimes it just fires, sometimes it just acts as if some thing got shorted seriously!

Do a battery check at any battery showrooms to eliminate if the problem is due to the battery.

[gaurav_diavolo]

Can be one of the two:
1) Problem with the battery, that is a cell is weak (as happened with me before this change). The problem with weak cell is that it gets decently charged with rapid run but loses the charge very quickly. First try to top up the cells. It that does not work, get your battery fully charged from the battery center to squeeze out maximum life from the battery. If the cell is in the last stage, replace battery

2) Check the alternator too, if it is charging the battery properly or not. Common symptom differentiation is that car will keep losing charge while driving itself, that's what differentiates it from battery problem where car won't get started with self. Get Alternator wiring checked too for current (very expensive spare part it is)

Hope it helps.

[2000rpm]

Hello Everyone...

Distress Call!! Yesterday I entered my car after 2 weeks (my work schedule is really not allowing me to drive :( )

Found my Service book in the glove box all nibbled up. Also there was a box of anti-fungal powder (which I use in rainy season to prevent fungus) which was opened up and all the powder was sprayed all over front passenger seat and rear seat!!

The plastic powder box was extremely strong with plastic thickness comparable to Ponds Talc box. I can only imagine the size of the rodent. Thankfully have not found any electronics to be affected, but i really fear major damage happening if something is not done quickly.

I need help on two fronts
- Rat repellant strategies
- What could be the entry point for the rat?

Thanks in advance.

[rr_zen]

Friends, I need some urgent advice. To cut a long story short,

The yellow colour check engine light came on suddenly this morning when I was cleaning the car. The car was at rest for the last two days as I had travelled away from home to my inlaws' farmhouse on Wednesday which is about 100km from Chennai.

On realizing the issue, I called up the Service Advisor at H.A.S.S who asked me to check for any cut wires or oil leak from the car. While, initially I couldn't spot anything at first go, a closer inspection revealed a cut wire (obviously the work of a rat given that am in the midst of a farm). The SA asked me to join the two wires temporarily and drive back to Chennai after which the service center would do the needful.

Now, I have joined the wire that was cut and cranked the engine. Everything seems to be fine when I took the car out for a short drive of about a km. However, the malfunction light stays on and refuses to go.

The question I have is, if the light should have ideally gone off or will it require resetting by the onboard diagnostic equipment for it to go off ? Any suggestions will help. Also, I plan to get back to Chennai on Monday and the drive is about 120km. Is it ok for me to drive down with family without compromising on any safety aspect? Thanks for all the inputs. I have attached a pic of the repaired wire for reference.

[laluks]

Originally Posted by rr_zen

The question I have is, if the light should have ideally gone off or will it require resetting by the onboard diagnostic equipment for it to go off ? Any suggestions will help. Also, I plan to get back to Chennai on Monday and the drive is about 120km. Is it ok for me to drive down with family without compromising on any safety aspect? Thanks for all the inputs. I have attached a pic of the repaired wire for reference.

Normally the light stays on for a period till the self healing happens. This could range between 20 to 100 or sometimes more ignition cycles. This depends on the OEM.

The service center diagnostics tool can read the error, erase the error etc..as we know.

[saurabhkum]

Originally Posted by laluks

Normally the light stays on for a period till the self healing happens. This could range between 20 to 100 or sometimes more ignition cycles. This depends on the OEM.

The service center diagnostics tool can read the error, erase the error etc..as we know.

Wouldn't this be solved by resetting the ECU? Try it out, it might work for you.

[laluks]

Originally Posted by saurabhkum

Wouldn't this be solved by resetting the ECU? Try it out, it might work for you.

By reset I believe you wanted the battery to be disconnected and connected? Logged DTCs are not supposed to be deleted that way anyways!

[mukeshgoel]

Originally Posted by laluks

By reset I believe you wanted the battery to be disconnected and connected? Logged DTCs are not supposed to be deleted that way anyways!

Resetting the ECU

Get into your car, shut the door etc, and turn the key full on to the point just before it cranks.

Press the accelerator fully to the floor and hold it there for 30 seconds.

After that don't touch the key, or door or anything but sit and wait for 2 minutes.

Then start the car and drive off.

[rr_zen]

So, theoretically speaking, the car has got back to its normal with the disconnected wire being connected back. Is my understanding right ?

[sarathlal]

Originally Posted by rr_zen

The question I have is, if the light should have ideally gone off or will it require resetting by the onboard diagnostic equipment for it to go off ? Any suggestions will help. Also, I plan to get back to Chennai on Monday and the drive is about 120km. Is it ok for me to drive down with family without compromising on any safety aspect? Thanks for all the inputs. I have attached a pic of the repaired wire for reference.

Ideally the light should be reset with OBD equipment only and should not go away automatically.
On driving the car as is to Chennai, if the option of getting the car checked at HASS is feasible, please do that. The only risk here if we don't do this is, we are not sure whether there is indeed some other damage also done, other than this cut wire.
Since this looks like getting to a HASS which is not your regular one, try to get the clarification on this aspect alone. If they can verify that the light was caused only due to cut wire, you can safely make the drive.

[laluks]

Originally Posted by mukeshgoel

Resetting the ECU

Get into your car, shut the door etc, and turn the key full on to the point just before it cranks.

Press the accelerator fully to the floor and hold it there for 30 seconds.

After that don't touch the key, or door or anything but sit and wait for 2 minutes.

Then start the car and drive off.

You meant the soft reset, while I meant the hard reset or the cold start of the ECU in question. Soft/hard reset of the ECU's do not clear DTCs. DTCs are supposed to be logged for a reason!

Originally Posted by rr_zen

So, theoretically speaking, the car has got back to its normal with the disconnected wire being connected back. Is my understanding right ?

No. We cannot conclude that just yet. We need to read the DTC and see what was the code to conclude.

If it was just the wire cut and you joined back, a self healing will remove the DTC (depends on the OEM and the type of DTC logged). But for that you need to have some ignition cycles (again number of such cycles depends, and also what qualifies as a ignition cycle depends on the OEM)

Originally Posted by sarathlal

Ideally the light should be reset with OBD equipment only and should not go away automatically.
On driving the car as is to Chennai, if the option of getting the car checked at HASS is feasible, please do that. The only risk here if we don't do this is, we are not sure whether there is indeed some other damage also done, other than this cut wire.
Since this looks like getting to a HASS which is not your regular one, try to get the clarification on this aspect alone. If they can verify that the light was caused only due to cut wire, you can safely make the drive.

+1 to what sarathlal has mentioned

It is good to have an ELM327 based OBD tool with you so that you yourself can read the DTCs. Such tools are available from 20$ onwards in ebay stores.

[spadix]

Originally Posted by sumeethaldankar

Low ps fluid causes the whine.Please go to a competent, independent and trusted garage get the ps hoses checked out for leakages.Check,with the engine off,if the serpentine belt is smeared in oil or not.A ps overhaul at hass would cost a bomb in case needed so go to a good garage.

I have been facing a slightly different issue for a few days now. There is a pronounced creaking sound when I steer the wheels with the car stationary, especially when the road surface isn't smooth or when there's something obstructing the wheel (e.g. cambered road edged by sloping kerbs - typically see these in modern layouts so as to allow water to run-off).

I don't hear these creaking sounds as much on smooth surfaces (think mall parking lots) unless I turn the wheel to full-lock.

PS fluid level seems alright. There are no signs of leakage beneath the fluid canister or on the serpentine belt. Note that I couldn't check the belt fully. My assumption is that if there's a leak on the belt, over time the entire belt should be smeared with oil.

What should be checked next? PS motor, steering rack & joints and tie-rods/ends are suspects already.

Regards,
spadix

[sarathlal]

Originally Posted by spadix

I have been facing a slightly different issue for a few days now. There is a pronounced creaking sound when I steer the wheels with the car stationary,

I don't hear these creaking sounds as much on smooth surfaces (think mall parking lots) unless I turn the wheel to full-lock.


Regards,
spadix

Is the creaking sound occurring on full-lock on both the occasions? If yes, you needn't worry, and this is just the hydraulic motor's normal behavior.